Upstart Crow

[No additional description provided.] As a lover of violets, sugared florals, and dead leaves, I just had to get a bottle of this without sampling. It is everything I hoped it would be. A sweet floral that edges more on the sugary than the floral side with a gasp of cologny-dead leaves behind it. It's an unusual fall scent, and I think it could be worn year round, really. Another violet winner! Definitely pick it up if you think even one of the notes would appeal.

THY GODFATHER’S PRESENT When the boy had grown up, his godfather one day appeared and bade him go with him. He led him forth into a forest, and showed him a herb which grew there, and said, "Now shalt thou receive thy godfather's present. I make thee a celebrated physician. When thou art called to a patient, I will always appear to thee. If I stand by the head of the sick man, thou mayst say with confidence that thou wilt make him well again, and if thou givest him of this herb he will recover; but if I stand by the patient's feet, he is mine, and thou must say that all remedies are in vain, and that no physician in the world could save him. But beware of using the herb against my will, or it might fare ill with thee." A bruised purple bundle of herbs with hyssop and life-everlasting. To recap: Godfather Death is my favorite fairy tale, and I love it to the point of obsession. I own bottles of all three scents (yes, unsniffed) and am ecstatic that I have the opportunity to review them first. The Godfather's bestowing of his gift is another breathtaking moment in the story; it shows not only a profound (and unusual, given Death's role in our affairs), trusting relationship between godfather and godson, but gives us the unforgettable image of a life-giving herb--an herb which has haunted my imagination and filled my notebooks for years. I had a lot of hopes for this one (despite having been put off a few of BPAL's more herbal blends in the past, such as Larentalia). They were not dashed at all. This is my favorite scent of the three. In bottle: a beautiful, mysterious and strong floral sweetness. Like the herb itself, there's just no way I can describe this to do it justice. The closest I can come is to say it is like Desdemona, only with a little more depth. Desdemona grown up. On me, wet: That same, floral sweetness and strength. There seems to be a hint of water, too--another symbol of life. Drying down: I think that's the hyssop coming out? I don't know what life-everlasting smells like, so it could be that, too.I also begin smelling some herbs, similar to those in Larentalia, I think. But they don't overpower like they do in this blend. Verdict: One of BPAL's most gorgeous florals ever! (Floral haters: you should probably refrain) Though it has herbs as an ingredient, don't be fooled: this is not an herbal perfume in the same way The Witch's Garden is.

The Fortune That Changes Bad Luck to Good, Intervention in Times of Need A hymn for blessings: pomegranate juice, mint, and juniper berry. I love Violent Gesticulations from the 2017 Weenies, and when I saw the notes for this, I hoped for something similar but that may be a bit less high-pitched (which is perfect for Violent Gesticulations! But I didn't want a carbon copy). I got pretty much what I hoped for in this lovely scent. The pomegranate is darker and heavier, less punchy and more mellow--a bit like the kind in September Midnight. The mint and juniper berry blend in a way that accentuates the best parts of both--the crisp menthol of the mint and the woodsy, slight pungency of the juniper. Very well blended, but each note still manages to stand out even while balancing each other. Definitely a keeper! Glad I trusted my love of pomegranate enough to get a bottle.

GODFATHER DEATH He went onwards, and then came Death striding up to him with withered legs, and said, "Take me as godfather." The man asked, "Who art thou?" "I am Death, and I make all equal." Then said the man, "Thou art the right one, thou takest the rich as well as the poor, without distinction; thou shalt be godfather." Death answered, "I will make thy child rich and famous, for he who has me for a friend can lack nothing." The man said, "Next Sunday is the christening; be there at the right time." Death appeared as he had promised, and stood godfather quite in the usual way. Olibanum, elemi, Bulgarian rose, yew, and opoponax. I literally screamed with joy when I learned that BPAL had released three scents inspired by Godfather Death. it is my favorite all-time fairy tale, and one that has inspired not only a long poem, but an in-progress novel. I ordered a bottle of each scent untried and am overjoyed that I'm the first to review each. Let's start with the Godfather himself. Whenever I think of Godfather Death, I think of earth, woods, stone and perhaps the lightest hint of a dry, hearty flower such as moss rose. I was therefore surprised and intrigued to see that Beth had chosen Olibanum, elemi, Bulgarian rose and oppoponax for her interpretation. Given yew's meaning in Celtic tree lore, I was surprised to see this ingredient for entirely different reasons, but let that be . In bottle: Godfather Death smells dark as the tomb. I definitely smell the oppoponax and rose and possibly the yew. Applied wet: The rose and oppoponax sharpen into something that smells a bit like pickles at an Indian restaurant. Given that I love pickles, this is not entirely unpleasant -- just unexpected. When I think of Godfather Death I think of the sharpness, perhaps, but certainly not food! Drying: The rose comes out and battles with the pickle smell. It's no briney exactly but it's certainly sharp. Dry: Still astringent, but softening a little. I can detect the rose. Overall: I like this, though it isn't what I thought it would be. I'll try him again later and see what he's like.

THE LIGHTS OF MEN’S LIVES When Death saw that for a second time he was defrauded of his own property, he walked up to the physician with long strides, and said, "All is over with thee, and now the lot falls on thee," and seized him so firmly with his ice-cold hand, that he could not resist, and led him into a cave below the earth. There he saw how thousands and thousands of candles were burning in countless rows, some large, others half-sized, others small. Every instant some were extinguished, and others again burnt up, so that the flames seemed to leap hither and thither in perpetual change. "See," said Death, "these are the lights of men's lives. The large ones belong to children, the half-sized ones to married people in their prime, the little ones belong to old people; but children and young folks likewise have often only a tiny candle." "Show me the light of my life," said the physician, and he thought that it would be still very tall. Death pointed to a little end which was just threatening to go out, and said, "Behold, it is there." The wax and smoke of millions upon millions of candles illuminating the walls of Death’s shadowy cave: some tall, straight, and strong, blazing with the fire of life, others dim and guttering. As I said in my review of Godfather Death, the story upon which these scents are based is my favorite fairy tale. Thus, I ordered bottles of all three unsniffed knowing--or hoping--that they would all somehow work for me. Yes, I'm that obsessed with this story. For those who have read it, the part of the tale that inspired this scent is the most arresting moment in the story. Given that I have had bad experiences with the beeswax the lab uses (ugh, Hanerot Halalu!) I must say I ordered this one more for completeness' sake than because the notes sounded great to me. I'm glad I did that. Folks, Beth nailed this one. NAILED it. Knocked it out of the damn park. This smells exactly like living candles. In the bottle: Something sugary sweet, and what smells to me like a hint of vanilla--the raw baker's kind, not the sweet kind. No wax. On me, wet: A rush of that vanilla bean sweetness and the sweetness of bpal's beeswax note. Oh, oh, delicious! This is defnitely the smell of living candles--waxy and warm skin. I am sure there is some skin musk in this--another note I don't like so much, but which just works beautifully here. Drying down: More of that sweet waxiness, and the skin musk comes out even stronger. verdict: An absolutely beautiful blend, specifically for those who were disappointed in Hanerot Halalu last year. This is definitely a good late fall/winter scent, just as Godfather Death is a winter's tale.

Smoky vetivert and dead leaves with just the slightest hint of vanilla to it. I love it, but it smells almost identical to my bottle of Death of Autumn, so while I'll keep the decant, I won't need a bottle .

When I had waited a long time, very patiently, without hearing him lie down, I resolved to open a little a very, very little crevice in the lantern. So I opened it you cannot imagine how stealthily, stealthily until, at length a simple dim ray, like the thread of the spider, shot from out the crevice and fell full upon the vulture eye. It was open wide, wide open and I grew furious as I gazed upon it. I saw it with perfect distinctness all a dull blue, with a hideous veil over it that chilled the very marrow in my bones; but I could see nothing else of the old mans face or person: for I had directed the ray as if by instinct, precisely upon the damned spot.

 A dim ray upon the vulture eye: smoked violets and bulbous orris, threads of crumbling lavender, and wet iris butter. These are still settling from the trip to me, but I just had to review. I'll change this if the scent changes when it settles down. This is an incredible violet, iris, and lavender blend. Dark and spectral at the same time. The iris and lavender blend so perfectly that while I can smell both, I can't tell where one ends and the other begins. The violet (which I assume is also orris here) gives it just a hint of sweetness, but it's a darker and smokier violet than I've encountered in any BPAL violet scent other than Bruised Violet Compound. In fact, this is like a lighter but slightly menacing version of BVC. Throw length seems to be about average on me, but my skin likes to devour oils, so ymmv. Definitely pick it up if you like any of the three notes. It showcases each of them really well.

I wanted this to work so badly because I love plum and clove and it smelled so delicious in the sample, but the oudh made it smell like plum feces on me. I wish I was kidding. Hard no from me.

Gangleri asked: How were things wrought, ere the races were and the tribes of men increased? Then said Hárr: The streams called Ice-waves, those which were so long come from the fountain-heads that the yeasty venom upon them had hardened like the slag that runs out of the fire,these then became ice; and when the ice halted and ceased to run, then it froze over above. But the drizzling rain that rose from the venom congealed to rime, and the rime increased, frost over frost, each over the other, even into Ginnungagap, the Yawning Void. Then spake Jafnhárr: Ginnungagap, which faced toward the northern quarter, became filled with heaviness, and masses of ice and rime, and from within, drizzling rain and gusts; but the southern part of the Yawning Void was lighted by those sparks and glowing masses which flew out of Múspellheim. Ice and rime and congealing venom, frost over frost, forever into the void: salt-strange rain and floes of hoarfrost, antediluvian poisons, and radiant sparks from Múspellheims furnaces. First reviewer? Nice! Unfortunately, my review isn't going to be glowing. I'd hoped for something chilly, snowy, aquatic, and maybe just a bit salty. What I got in the sample container was a loud, vaguely noxious shriek of something citrusy that smelled like salted vomit when I applied it. I scrubbed it off immediately and layered the skin over with something I liked to take the pain away. This is only one of two BPALs I've ever deeply disliked. Both had "salt" as an ingredient. I think I've found my death note .

“You’ve been troubled?” “Yes. Good word. Troubled. Yes. Like a home for troubled teens. Funny. Yes.” “And what exactly is troubling you?” “Well, we fight, we win.” “And that is a source of trouble? I find it a matter of triumph and delight, myself.” “But. They’ll die out anyway. They are passenger pigeons and thylacines. Yes? Who cares? This way, it’s going to be a bloodbath.” “Ah.” Mr. World nodded. He was following. That was good. The fat kid said, “Look, I’m not the only one who feels this way. I’ve checked with the crew at Radio Modern, and they’re all for settling this peacefully; and the intangibles are pretty much in favor of letting market forces take care of it. I’m being. You know. The voice of reason here.” “You are indeed. Unfortunately, there is information you do not have.” The smile that followed was twisted and scarred. Gods of the Stock Market, of securities and trades, of trade and upheaval, debt, fortune, and risk: chaotic synthetic notes, bubbling aldehydes, and the electric green of market euphoria. Yay! First I just got this out of the box, so it's probably still a bit unhappy from travel and in need of rest, so I may update later. This is a beautiful aldehyde scent. When it goes on wet, it's got that lovely astringent floral scent that is classic aldehyde, but it's laced with a sweet note that almost reminds me of pink bubblegum. Not in a cloying or foody way, though. It blends really well, with whatever it is. It is a very green, bubbly scent that morphs quickly into something floral and a bit oily and starchy. I don't want to say french fries because it's not that smell, but it gave me an impression of it. Still not unpleasant.This fades and the sweetness returns. Interesting. I think I'll keep it and try it on again when it settles to see what happens.

Okay, I have a nasty cold so YMMV. But wow, this is exactly as described. Vetivert with plastic and strong chemical smoke. I love "unusual" and vetivert-heavy perfumes, but this one makes me slightly gag when I smell it up close. I'm going to hang on to it, though, to see how it ages.

I avoided getting a bottle of this one for years, even though it was on my list. I normally don't like frankincense and sandalwood is meh, but they're just gorgeous in this blend. I get an ozone, ethereal, incensey violet with just a hint of amber (which really fleshes the scent profile out) and a hint of smoke. Wow.

I got this mainly to help the ACLU and was expecting to either like it okay or to dislike it if the coffee was too strong. It's now one of my top ten favorites BPALs. Wow! On me, the coffee is strong for about five seconds, then settles down behind a slightly aquatic traditional cologne with leather notes that come out to play as the blend settles. I think men who prefer more traditionally "masculine" scents would really dig this (I, however, am not a man and will wear it regularly.)

Caspar David Friedrich A gravestone of polar ice. For real? No one has reviewed this yet? This is just a gorgeous scent. It's one of nine (!!!) I got blind bottles of this year because the Yules were just that awesome. In bottle: I get a faint hint of the BPAL snow note and something very sweet, a little green, and floral that has just a hint of wallpaper paste--but not in a bad way. I have absolutely no clue what this is, but it's gorgeous and not at all something I'd expect for a scent with this description, as I expected Sea of Ice to be more like Hypothermia from 2009 or Nuclear Winter. Applied, wet: Paste isn't a problem at all, and this becomes sweet, refreshing, and vital and faintly aquatic. But just faintly. This makes me think of glaciers with the warmth of the sea nearby. Of meltwater, of--wait for it!--the ocean with ice floes in it. Incredible. Drydown: The same, but marginally more aquatic. Has a fairly decent throw, seems that it will last moderately on my skin. This is just spectacular. I may need a backup bottle before the Yules come down.

I'm getting coconut and chocolate? I should probably let it rest a bit after being mailed to me and try again.

[No additional description given.] First review again! Woo~ In bottle: Chamomile chamomile chamomile chamomile!!! With just a tiny hint of rose and leaves. Wet on skin: A burst of chamomile that quickly gets wrapped up gently in red roses sweetened by the white tea. The rose is super subtle. I love red rose, but my skin tends to amp it pretty hard, but in this blend it just hangs out in the background giving this blend a rich undertone. As I keep sniffing, the white tea's sweetness comes to the forefront more and blends gorgeously with the chamomile (which is now making me crave white tea and chamomile together in beverage form!). The leaf note I get here is really more subtle and surprisingly greenish. A bit like the note used in Nothing Gold Can Stay (another favorite of mine). Though as it dries, it gets a bit darker and crisper. Dry down: More of the same, and a hint of dandelion? It's not in the notes, though, so it must just be the way the chamomile, tea, and leaves combine. The rose gets even more subtle. I'm definitely glad I got a bottle. Another keeper, I think!

I'm not at all sure what to make of this. In the bottle: I get minty, rainy graveyard dirt. On me: I get peppermint/spearmint, light aquatic, Graveyard Dirt, and...grass? Yes. On me, that is definitely the grass note from Blade of Grass! Awesome evocative scent, but it's kind of jarring to my nose, even though this fades into a minty/dirty smell after a while. I will probably sell or swap my bottle for a Yule that is higher priority.

Aber is iffy to me, but the mosses make this blend deep, earthy, and just a little sweet. Definitely getting a bottle!

White apple with violet and iris. I'm so thrilled to be the first to review this one! Apple VI was one of five (!) bottles I bought blind because this update was just too perfect--and because violet is my favorite note. I only let it sit for about two hours out of the mailbox, so I'll update if it smells differently after a longer rest period. In Bottle: Sharp red apple with something sweet but not quite violet. Wet on skin: When I first tried this on right out of the mailbox, the apple was super strong and red and reminiscent of the note in Poison Apple. After a few hours of rest, though, the apple is much more mellow and doesn't overpower the violet and iris, but neither is it quite as "mushy." You know the kind, when an apple is overripe and tastes mushy and a bit bitter in your mouth. I can smell the sweetness of the violet and something dirty which I know is the iris. Iris usually turns to fresh dirt on me in a way I don't like (despite loving dirt scents), but here the effect is lovely. It blends astonishingly well with the apple and violet, giving the blend a green but floral smell. This is not an overly fruity scent at all but rather a sweet, fresh apple floral. Drydown: As it dries, the notes blend more seamlessly together. A definite keeper--I just knew I'd love it! I may even need to get a backup! Throw length seems about medium to me. This has a mild to medium throw length, unfortunately, but seems

Normally, I wouldn't have bought a scent like this. I don't like foody scents for the most part, and as much as I love raspberries, I don't want to smell like them. But the fact this scent benefits the ACLU made up my mind for me. In bottle: Sharp, dark raspberry. This doesn't smell like fresh raspberries or even overripe ones, but more like what a perfumer's impression of a raspberry would be. I assume the darkness comes from the birch tar and the tea leaf. This just smells black, rather like the dark label. On me, wet: Pretty much the same. Pretty sure the darkness I'm smelling is the birch tar, as I drink tea a lot and can usually detect what the leaves smell like. I also get a small hint of something metallic. I guess this is the iron fist from the description? Drydown: The raspberry calms down and the dark birch tar comes out to play. I do wish it amped more on me and stayed strong longer, but this is definitely a keeper, as I don't have any raspberry scents and this one isn't all that glaringly foody. Definitely pick up a bottle if you think at all that this might work for you. It's an unusual scent and the money goes to one of the best causes it can these days.

I, too, am getting sharpened pencils here, which is absolutely the frankincense. This and the cloying sweetness are the reasons frankincense is such an iffy note on me. It either enhances the blend subtly or it overrides everything else in a way that isn't unpleasant exactly, but which is just something I don't much care for because it hammers everything else down. I get just a hint of the full-bodied rose here, and some sweetness from the violet, but overall not what I'd expected or hoped for. Not a bad blend at all, but just not entirely for me. If you love frankincense, though, you really ought to pick it up!

A very sweet, snowy scent, definitely a sweeter, lighter musk. I don't think I've ever tried blue musk before, and it's absolutely gorgeous. Unfortunately, the throw is pretty weak on me and it fades very fast. Maybe because I've only tested it and didn't put a lot on? I'd like to keep this one, so I hope the throw either improves or aging makes this stronger.

Dead Leaves, Chamomile, Roses, and White Tea is so good it inspired me to blend my own white tea, chamomile, and rose petals blend at adagio.com!

Visiting the Temple on the eve of Auspicious Fortune (I think that's its name...it's super long) is a good rainy scent, though it's incens-y too, which may not be yuor thing?

I passed this up in 2012 but picked it up for the 2016 charity event. I only regret waiting so long. Vetiver is a favorite note of mine that I've sought out less over the years for some reason, and this gorgeous bottle reminds me why I shouldn't do that ;3. It's smoky, slightly greenish, woody, heavy, pungent, and "gritty" as a few people have said. Nice long staying power too. This smells like the same vetiver used in Bluebeard too, which makes it an instant winner for me.