yeahbutnobut

Practical Occultism consists, first, of a perfect mastery of the individual’s own spirit. No advance whatever can be made in acquiring power over other spirits, such as controlling the lower or supplicating the higher, until the spirit within has acquired such perfect mastery of itself, that it can never be moved to anger or emotion—realizes no pleasure, cares for no pain; experiences no mortification at insult, loss, or disappointment—in a word, subdues every emotion that stirs common men’s minds. To arrive at this state, severe and painful as well as long continued discipline is necessary. Having acquired this perfect equilibrium, the next step is power. The individual must be able to wake when he pleases and sleep when he pleases; go in spirit during bodily sleep where he will, and visit—as well as remember when awake—distant scenes. He must be enabled by practice, to telegraph, mentally, with his fellow associates, and present himself, spiritually, in their midst. He must, by practice, acquire psychological control over the minds of any persons—not his associates—beneath his own calibre of mind. He must be able to still a crying infant, subdue fierce animals or angry men, and by will, transfer his thought without speech or outward sign to any person of a mental calibre below himself; he must be enabled to summon to his presence elementary spirits, and if he desires to do so (knowing the penalties attached), to make them serve him in the special departments of Nature to which they belong. He must, by virtue of complete subjugation of his earthly nature, be able to invoke Planetary and even Solar Spirits, and commune with them to a certain degree. To attain these degrees of power the processes are so difficult that a thorough practical occultist can scarcely become one and yet continue his relations with his fellow-men. He must continue, from the first to the last degree, a long series of exercises, each one of which must be perfected before another is undertaken. A practical occultist may be of either sex, but must observe as the first law inviolable chastity—and that with a view of conserving all the virile powers of the organism. No aged person, especially one who has not lived the life of strict chastity, can acquire the full sum of the powers above named. It is better to commence practice in early youth, for after the meridian of life, when the processes of waste prevail over repair, few of the powers above described can be attained; the full sum never. Strict abstinence from animal food and all stimulants is necessary. Frequent ablutions and long periods of silent contemplation are essential. Codes of exercises for the attainment of these powers can be prescribed, but few, if any, of the self-indulgent livers of modern times can perform their routine. The arts necessary for study to the practical occultist are, in addition to those prescribed in speculative occultism, a knowledge of the qualities of drugs, vapors, minerals, electricity, perfumes, fumigations, and all kinds of anæsthetics. And now, having given in brief as much as is consistent with my position—as the former associate of a secret society—I have simply to add, that, whilst there are, as in Masonry, certain preliminary degrees to pass through, there are numerous others to which a thoroughly well organized and faithful association might advance. In each degree there are some valuable elements of practical occultism demanded, whilst the teachings conveyed are essential preliminaries. In a word, speculative occultism must precede practical occultism; the former is love and wisdom, the latter, simply power. A Victorian occultist’s incense, invoking the Four Archangels: precious wildcrafted Indian frankincense with myrrh, cassia, sandarac, palmarosa, white sage, red sandalwood, elemi, and drops of star anise bound with grains of kyphi. In the bottle: kyphi! A fruity, wine-y kyphi scent with lots of cassia and a bit of anise. On skin: glorious spicy kyphi. This smells less like Cairo’s lemongrassy-rosy take on kyphi, not as wine-y or ashen as Philosopher in Meditation, it’s more like the kyphi note from the Oak and Kyphi atmosphere spray, or the Chthonic Kyphi incense from TAL. It’s spicy, resinous and complex. Cinnamon/cassia is the most obvious note, but it’s also full of myrrh, frankincense, red wine and honeyed raisins, there’s also a hint of fuzzy sage to it as well. The anise isn’t there any more. I absolutely love the resinous spicy scent this has. It reminds me a bit of Haloa but without the foody notes. It also reminds me of Egg Moon’s cinnamon frankincense. After a while: it doesn’t change too much but I think the honey and wine aspects of the kyphi become more obvious. The resins deepen further, the cassia becomes warmer. The myrrh is wonderful in here, it reminds me of the myrrh in Priala, especially with the cinnamon, but not as smoky. Something about it reminds me of a couple of last year’s phoenix scents. Verdict: probably the best kyphi scent by BPAL so far. If you are a kyphi lover, you must get this. It’s brimming with spice and resin and honeyed wine, all in balance. Yule is a perfect time for this scent to be on sale, there’s something almost festive to it because of the combination of red wine and cinnamon, frankincense and myrrh, at times it reminds me of mulled wine in a church during a Christmas service, but it’s got that undertone of mystery and darkness hinting at more ancient, occult origins for this particular incense blend. The great thing is that it’s cinnamony but doesn’t burn my skin. I’m glad I took a chance on this as it’s perfect, I think it will age amazingly. Is it a keeper? for sure. Maybe a backup? If you like this, try: Egg Moon, Pliny’s Phoenix, Tacitus’s Phoenix, Priala the Human Phoenix, Oak Leaves and Kyphi atmosphere spray, Saturnian Phoenix, Philosopher in Meditation, Haloa, Cairo, Saint Foutin de Varailles, Valentine of Rome

Apologies if there's already a topic for this-I couldn't find it but if there is, please merge it! Lola Montez bath oil In bottle: sweet, musky and smoky. I’m guessing a dark or red musk with tobacco. On skin: whoa! This smells incredible! Smoky sexy sultry sweet musk. I smell a glorious red musky sort of scent, or maybe black amber, or a black musk? It reminds me of another scent but I can’t say which. There’s a smoky scent which is probably tobacco but it also reminds me of incense. There’s something spicy too, which I’m pretty sure is clove, and possibly cinnamon as well. Yes, I’m pretty sure there’s cinnamon and amber here because it reminds me of Sin. And there may be a touch of vanilla or tonka as well. This is so wonderful and it smells so sexy, and well blended too. I’d wear this as perfume; it’s too good to waste in the bath. I really hope it gets released one day!

Does anyone know of a scent called DENN DIE TODTEN REITEN SCHNELL? It's the name of one of the new claw polishes. As all the others are named after scents, is this one also based on a scent or is it just a stand-alone polish? I do not recall a scent-general or limited-with that name. Is this an unreleased/future scent?

Radiance of Ra Creates a nimbus of glittering solar energy. Aids in all healing work, unveiling lies and deceptions, promotes vigor and vitality, and grants blessings of joy and contentment. It's a horrible day today, cold, rainy, windy and dull. I feel like shit and I'm depressed. I need some serious sunshine in my life. The perfect time to give this TAL a try! In the imp: neroli! Or is that orange blossom? Whatever it is, it smells very similar to the GC oil Ra, which isn't surprising. There may be orange/citrus in here as well. The oil is a sunny gold colour. Wet on skin: tangy orange blossom and citrus. Sunny and zingy, this is a cheerful scent. I dabbed a bit of this on my solar plexus as well as my wrists. Dry: now I get some herbal scents coming through (similar to Ahatoor), also some frankincense, and some sweeter notes which I think could be amber and heliotrope. The scent is dry, hot, reminiscent of the desert, yet with a delicious sweetness like fruit covered in syrup. This scent is so warm, I'm wondering if there's a slight spice note in here-maybe saffron? Whatever it is, I feel a lot warmer and more positive already, and reassured as well. After a while: there's definitely frankincense in here, and I think I can also smell carnation now! Warm, spicy carnation, and possibly a sweet, soft touch of amber and a fruit note that could be sweet orange or apricot. There's a sweetness to the scent which is almost vanilla like, I'm guessing heliotrope is in here. There's also something sugary and sticky (in a good way), which might be amber or subtle honey. The scent is sweet, luminous and glistening but with a warm spiciness. The drydown of this scent is more herbal, very much like Ahathoor. It's not as sweet and amber-y any more, but I still like it, though not as much as when it was wet/just dry. Verdict (scent): this is liquid sunshine. The scent is like a cross between Ra and Ahathoor from the Stations of the Sun...it has the fruity, sweet, complex aspects of Ra, with the herbal dry warmth of Ahathoor. It's a complex scent with notes of orange blossom and possibly orange fruit, and herbs and subtle spices, frankincense, carnation and maybe some amber and sweet fruit notes. It's a very solar scent, warm, powerful, dry and golden-orange in colour. Effects/intent: this works. As soon as I put this on, I feel the oil's warmth-there's a definite feel of heat to this scent. I feel uplifted, energised, reassured, and more positive. I can already feel the depression lifting...I'm also hoping its healing aspects come into play. I know I'll be using this when I feel those winter blues/early morning blues come on. It may be dull, raining and cold outside. It may be February. But this oil has bought much needed sunshine into my life. When TAL goes live, I'm getting a bottle.

Clarity Brings your mind into sharper focus, banishes distractions and silences restless thoughts. In the imp: mint! A hint of lemongrass, though this is more minty (whereas Concentration was heavy on the lemongrass) and it smells very cool, fresh and clear. Wet on skin: a nice even balance of lemongrass and mint, but with another cool note that I can't recognise. As well as dabbing on my hands to inhale as I study (much like Concentration), I dabbed some on a tissue as well. Dry: a clean, clear, cool scent of mint, soft lemongrass, and something which I can't recognise but it smells clear, almost alcoholic or aquatic, and it's similar to a note I smelt in Catalyst. I'm wondering if this mystery note is wormwood, as it reminds me of BPAL Absinthe. But it may also be an ozone note. I don't know for sure. The scent is similar to, but less intense than Concentration, but sniffing it definitely seems to clear my mind and I know that this scent will work wonders on headaches as well. After a while: unfortunately the scent becomes quite soapy after a while-there may be an ozone note in this, as well a greenish note, and some lemon verbena. But effect-wise, I feel very, very alert right now. I'm switched on and I feel at ease with my studies, without that crushing ”˜oh crap, my brain is blocked' feeling I usually get! Verdict (scent): this starts out nicely, with mint and a bit of lemongrass, and another note that I can't quite pin down, it is cool, clear, and almost boozy or aquatic, I'm thinking there's either wormwood or ozone/ice notes in here. The drydown isn't as nice, it's quite soapy on my skin...it's much nicer on a tissue (or perhaps an oil burner.) Verdict (intent): this really seems to work! When I sniff this (especially in the wet/just dry stages), my brain seems to wake up and I become very alert. My thoughts are clearer, and I don't get those ”˜mental blockages' when I study-in fact, I felt like I understood my difficult physics studies much better after sniffing this. So what it lacks in scent it makes up in purpose-and that's the whole point. I already have a bottle of Concentration on the way, but I'll try this a few more times (in an oil burner and tissues as opposed to skin) and maybe I will need a bottle of this as well because it seems to work a treat!

Wow, I'm first with this one... Ourobouros (hope I spelt that right) Brings aspects of your life to completion. Helps you tie up loose ends, bring things full circle, and find balance. (Note: I won this decant on eBay, but I have no idea what it's intent or magickal purpose is, so for now I'm reviewing the oil on its scent here-I hope this is ok?) In the imp: fresh and green, slightly lemony, and I think I get a bit of pepper. A clean, almost soapy scent. Wet on skin: pepper or ginger, a soapy lemon scent (maybe lemon verbena?) and something moist and green and quite floral, possibly a lily note. Dry on skin: yup, I'm sure there's a ginger note here, it's warm and spicy in a slightly savoury way, there may also be a mild pepper note here as well. It's a strange scent because behind this gingery scent, I get a soapy scent of lemon verbena and a green note and possibly a lily of some sort. It's both clean and fresh and warm and savoury-spicy, reminds me of a recently cleaned kitchen where spicy food is regularly cooked… After a while: I now think there may be some cumin or coriander in this? I get another savoury spice note here that isn't ginger or pepper, it may be one of those. I still get the lemon soap aspect, but now I also think there's a bit of vetiver underneath it all…this vetiver becomes more noticeable on drydown. Verdict (scent): The only thing I know is that the Ourobouros is the ancient symbol of the serpent that eats it's tail, and I think it's also an alchemical symbol? Other than that, I have no idea of the oil's purpose yet, but as for it's fragrance…this is an unusual scent! It has both a savoury-spicy aspect which to me smells of pepper and ginger, and a soapy scent of something lemony and clean, along with a moist green-floral like a lily, with vetiver undertones which strengthen as time passes. A strange combination of scents, it's not something I'd wear as perfume-but then again it's not perfume, and if I knew what it's intent was, I could wear it for that. For now, I'll wait for a mod to put a description up and maybe try it again for intent if it's purpose appeals to me. edit: after reading the description, it seems this oil has come at a perfect time-the end of 2005 no less. A nice TAL to end the old year with-and it felt right as well. EDIT: Description added. --Shollin

A useful aid in study and ritual. Dot this oil onto your palms and then rub them together vigorously. Then inhale the scent to intensify your mental focus and clear your mind of errant thoughts. This blend will sometimes provoke sudden insight into problems, and consequentially can be used for inspiration. *does the first review post dance* Concentration In the imp: lemongrass and mint. Maybe some other herbs but mainly lemongrass and mint. My old physics teacher used to burn lemongrass oil in the class to help us concentrate...so it makes sense that this is the main scent. Wet on skin: whoa, this is some powerful lemongrass-it smells just like the pure essential oil I have of it. I like this-it's a very cool, piercing, bright and clearing scent of lemongrass and mint. And like most mint blends, it feels cool on the skin-perfect on this hot summer day. Dry on skin: this doesn't change much, but I think the mint gets stronger-it adds a chill to the back of my throat. Still lemongrass and mint though. After a while: the mint fades and sweetens a bit, the lemongrass stays, I think there may be some lemon verbena too. I think there are also some other herbs in this. Verdict: as a student revising for exams (maths and physics, meep!), this is the blend for me. This is pure lemongrass and mint, maybe with some other things like pine and eucalyptus, but predominantly piercing lemongrass and chilly mint. My physics teacher knew that lemongrass is good for concentration, so it makes sense to use it here. The mint also has the lovely effect of clearing my clogged up brain. This is something I will experiment with when revising for those nasty maths exams, hopefully it will help! Edit: this worked wonders for my A-level physics exam, and also one of my 1st year degree papers. It was a great revision aid, keeping me alert and focused on my work, but I used it on a tissue as opposed to my palms (lasts longer that way). Little wafts of scent emanate from the tissue and with each waft comes a moment of mental clarity. It didn't help much on my maths paper (that was way too complicated, even for Concentration) but even so, I regularly sniff the bottle when I'm studying and it almost always works a treat!

Sweet Alyssum In the imp: a sweet, endearing floral. Very springy! Wet on skin: now it’s a bit greener and also a bit soapy (in a pleasant way). Dry on skin: a sweet, slightly greenish, slightly honeyed, bubbly floral. It has a kind of ‘soap suds’ or ‘children’s bubble bath’ that I quite like. It has a similar sweetness to some other floral scents like heliotrope or hellebore, but it’s a bit more of a nectar scent, it could get too sweet for me. I am sure this is one of the flowers in Chaste Moon (both versions). There is something underneath it all that could turn to plastic or bitterness, but I hope that doesn’t happen. I must say this is very accurate, it smells like real alyssum! After a while: this unfortunately develops a slightly bitter plastic with a slightly cloying sweetness. The bitterness underneath reminds me of a similar reaction I got with Evening Stock, but not as intense. I much prefer this to Evening Stock. It still manages to stay quite alyssum-y despite the hints of plastic. This would be much nicer if it wasn’t on my skin! Though with a few more wears it does improve a little, smelling more like the warm and pleasantly soapy smell from before. Verdict: my friend recently got some alyssum to plant in her garden, and I couldn’t resist the chance to smell it…and I have to say, this note is spot on! It smells just like the sweet, honeyed, candied but also earthy/green smell of real alyssum. The word that comes to mind is ‘frothy’, because it reminds me both of an almost effervescent mass of tiny alyssum blooms bursting from the cracks of garden paving, and also because it reminds me of bubble bath! It’s a very pretty and complex single note but my skin does some strange things to it, making it a bit too soapy and sweet. I have a feeling this would be even nicer as part of a blend rather than on its own. As this smells much nicer before I apply this to my skin, I think I would love this in a room spray or even a candle! Is it a keeper? on its own with nothing added, probably not, having said that, it is growing on me…I’d love to see more blends with alyssum in it. If you like this, try: Fairy Hordes Attacking a Bat spray, Chaste Moon (both), other floral single notes such as Devil’s Trumpet and Evening Stock

Lunar Eclipse (April 2013) In the imp: pale, cool, musky iris with something sharp and perfumey. Wet on skin: herbal notes reminiscent of camomile and hay, iris and blue musk. Dry on skin: this is very pretty! This has a similar ‘chilled pale musk and iris’ note to Yaksh and the Cold Hour of Dawn, but the white tea makes it even sharper. This tea note can be quite piercing, and it is quite strident in here. I think the blackcurrant also adds a tart fruity scent. The yarrow and mugwort have a kind of ‘herbal tea’ smell in here, they remind me of camomile and sage. The white musk is more like blue musk to me; it has that airy freshness to it. It is pretty but I hope that the amber and patchouli make an appearance. After a while: nooo, my skin is eating this up! I hoped the darker, deeper notes would show up, but it seems not. The scent seems to be disappearing, it’s like a faint iris and white tea perfume now, with a bit of blackcurrant. Eventually it becomes a bit amber-y but it’s still dominated by that white tea, which is quite astringent, too sharp for my tastes. The scent overall is still too faint. Where’s the patchouli? Verdict: I tried this a few times because I really wanted to like it, I collect the eclipse scents, but as far as throw/scent strength goes it’s the weakest of the eclipse blends. I suppose this fits the event itself, which was the subtlest of eclipses, the umbra just about touched the moon. But the scent is too faint for me to appreciate it; I’m surprised by how little patchouli and amber I get here. I really like the blue musk and iris combination, but the white tea note used in here seems to be similar to the one in Half Elf, which was a really sour white tea. It’s not as sour here as it was in Half Elf but it’s still too piercing and insistent. I think the currant is sharper than usual, I hoped for dark sweet fruitiness but it’s more like tangy redcurrant than blackcurrant. A shame, I hoped this would be a nice ‘lighter’ take on the eclipse scents, but it didn’t work out. Is it a keeper? no. I’ll stick to the original Lunar Eclipse, Penumbra and Senelion for now. If you like this, try: Blue Moon (any), Black Moon 2011, The Phoenix at Midnight, Yaksh, The Cold Hour of Dawn

Mayan Chocolate with Annatto Seed, Anaheim Pepper, Cinnamon and Vanilla Bean In the imp: rich spicy chocolate fudge with a hint of fresh green chilli pepper. Wet on skin: a dusty, almost grainy note comes out-I’m guessing that’s annatto? It’s still very chocolatey though. Dry on skin: interesting. It makes me think of chocolate bread (not pain au chocolat, this isn’t buttery) or even a kind of chocolate flour, or dry cocoa mix. The annatto seed is an unusual note-grainy and dusty but not unpleasant. The chocolate is gorgeous-rich and almost fudgy and reminiscent of cake, full of cinnamon and pepper, with the sweetness of vanilla rounding it off. I’ll have to see how the annatto plays out because this has potential to be really amazing. After a while: it still smells grainy but now smells more like a kind of raw chocolate or freshly ground cocoa beans with a lovely vanilla and cinnamon undertone, and a warm peppery note that reminds me of those chilli flavoured chocolates. This gets warmer, drier and sweeter over time. Eventually this turns into a glorious spiced brownie! I want to gnaw on my wrist…it has a similar vibe to Boomslang actually. It doesn’t smell like Snake Oil but it has a spicy vanilla and chocolate combination that is reminiscent of Boomslang (as well as the fact that both scents turn to brownies on me). Verdict: I’m glad I went straight for a bottle of this one. I wasn’t sure about the floury, dusty, almost earthy scent of the annatto at first but it eventually grew on me and the scent developed very nicely on my skin from a dry spicy cocoa mix to something fabulously gourmand and comforting at the end. I love the richness of the chocolate note in here, no doubt given a boost by the vanilla, and the spice notes well balanced-the cinnamon is just perfect here-and they give the chocolate a warm, exotic feel. I have the urge to make ‘Mayan Brownies’ inspired by this scent! Is it a keeper? Definitely! If you like this, try: Boomslang, 13 (April 2007), Lump of Coal, Dia de los Reyes, Feast of the Greatly Revered Ones

In the imp: definitely reminiscent of Snake Oil/Charmer, but it also reminds me of WILF and Smut and the other sweet and darkly sexy musk scents. Wet on skin: this sweetens and starts to develop hints of black musk. Dry on skin: this is very similar to the first incarnation of Siberian Musk I tried, except there’s something a bit sweet here, almost like it has a tonka or vanilla component. Like that, it seems like the perfect balance of red and black musk (though I think the previous SM was more like red and dark musk, which is less sweet than black musk). I find this much more intense and syrupy than Snake Oil and the black musk aspect of this musk smells a bit like sweet cologne (in a nice way) with a touch of something resinous. It reminds me of the black musk in Minotaur. I am also reminded of Luna Negra, in that there’s an almost fruity feel to this. It’s a very rich, heady musk but I fear it will turn to powder or manly cologne (though that doesn’t happen with Old Demons or Smut). After a while: the lovely fruity/dark berry scent from before has gone, and it doesn’t turn powdery, but it does smell much more animalistic, more like an untamed dark musk than a sleek black musk or spicy red musk. Not pungently animalistic like civet, but in that feral way that’s found in some of the heavy musk scents or some of the furry, mammal themed scents-though I wouldn’t call this scent ‘cuddly’. I am sure that this is the main musk in Satyr. Verdict: I think this is slightly stronger and sweeter than the original Siberian musk, but that could be down to aging? They do smell very similar in that ‘blend of red and black musk’ way. Even though I love heavy musky scents similar to this and these blends I feel are the kind Beth really excels at, as a single note I think that this particular musk is a bit too intense? I think it works better in a blend, but without other notes it becomes too much, and there’s a slight cologney/perfumey aspect I’m not sure I’m keen on, as well as a heavily animalistic backdrop which is very sexual and heady but a bit overwhelming too. I think I prefer red musk anyway, which tends to have spicy, fruity or incense-like aspects in addition to being intensely musky. Is it a keeper? I like it but I prefer this note in blends. It’s too intense on its own, I’d rather it was tamed by other notes. If you like this, try: Old Demons of the First Class, Smut, Satyr, Snake Oil, Luna Negra, Enraged Orangutan Musk, WILF

Haitian Vetiver In the vial: the darkest scent ever. Smoky, gritty, sombre, intense, the thickest and heaviest of vetiver notes. The oil itself is gritty and dark. Wet on skin: still vetiver, now it’s even smokier. Dry on skin: this may be the vetiver I tend to call ‘evil’ in reviews, but on it’s own it is very multifaceted. The scent is darkly earthy and ashen with nuances of tar, bonfire, charred grasses, and even something vaguely boozy like aged whisky. Or maybe Guinness. This is not the ‘green’ vetiver with its hint of citrus, nor is it the ‘chocolate’ vetiver, there’s no sweetness in here. It’s also a world away from the sandalwood and incense-tinged ‘khus’ note. This vetiver is almost savoury-there’s even something to it that reminds me a bit of Marmite, of all things. After a while: there is a moment when it turns unnervingly meaty-almost like beef stock or Bovril (beef extract), which is not something I want to smell like! It also develops metallic undertones, as well as smelling like ashes and burning. I am sure this vetiver is used in Malediction, Brimstone and Saturnalia. Verdict: this is a little bit like ‘getting to know my note nemesis’, but I’m glad I tried this-it’s a fascinating note. If it were a colour it would be so black that light cannot escape it. If it were a sound it would be that of an erupting volcano, the distant thunder of an approaching storm, the rumble of an earthquake-something primal or even apocalyptic. It seems sinister yet oddly grounding, gloomy and full of forboding with its heavy smoke and ash and brimstone notes, but also rich and organic with almost stout-y or even meaty aspects, but it lacks the chocolate nuances I get from some of the heavy vetivers (I think the Bourbon vetiver may be the sweet one?) Needless to say it’s not something I’d wear much but again I’m in awe at the complexity of these single notes. Is it a keeper? No-it’s not my favourite note, but testing it was an interesting adventure for my nose… If you like this, try: Brimstone, Malediction, Saturnalia, Sloth, Love’s Torments, Nephilim, Samhainophobia

Solar Phoenix In the imp: a mix of sweet golden fruit, camomile tea and savoury bay. Wet on skin: very reminiscent of some other sun-themed scents like Labores Solis and Helios, but more herbal and with added pineapple. Dry on skin: I love this! It’s warm, balmy, fruity and golden. The pineapple is there but it is subtle-adding a sweet undertone without smelling like a pina colada. The camomile is a very soothing scent here, and it reminds me a bit of sun-warmed hay. The bay isn’t as heavy as in Delphi, but it adds a hint of pleasant herbiness. There’s a gorgeous rose note-reminiscent of white rose, but smoother and softer. The frankincense is that wonderful, golden variety from Helios, it smells almost like it’s been infused with saffron. Not much cinnamon or heliotrope yet. This has a feel to it that reminds me of a lazy sunny afternoon. After a while: the bay note slinks away into the background leaving a lovely, shimmering, almost fuzzy scent of rose and camomile tea with sweet, juicy pineapple, and a fantastic spiced frankincense note. It reminds me of Pallas Athene by now, probably because of the frankincense and cinnamon. Verdict: this is a wonderful solar scent-resinous, herbal and a tiny bit floral-reminds me of Helios, Ahathoor, Labores Solis and Sol Niger (prototype), but it’s different to the fruity/sweet/amber-y sun scents lik Ra and Sol Invictus. It’s a scent that captures the laid back, happy aspects of the sun…the scent of warm dried grasses and herbs, freshly bloomed roses and notes that remind me of holidays in far away warmer climes, be it by the Mediterranean (the bay laurel) or somewhere closer to the equator (the pineapple). Perfect for those dreary days when I feel like I need a bit of instant sunshine. Is it a keeper? Yup-I can’t wait to get my bottle! If you like this, try: Sachs, Against Idleness and Mischief, Helios, Labores Solis, Pallas Athene, Ahathoor

Cheshire Moon 2013 In the imp: grapefruit, lemon…and SNOW? Yes, this appears to have the snow note-the one from Blue/Yellow Snowballs. It also reminds me a bit of fizzy lime. Wet on skin: much tangier and less sweet than the original. It still smells snowy. Dry on skin: this is very heavy on the citrus, with the zesty, juicy grapefruit taking the lead. It smells like fresh grapefruit juice, not too bitter but it is tart. Lemongrass is also more obvious but isn’t shrieking its head off like it can do-this is more like the gentle lemongrass from Skytyping with Chemtrails. The lemon balm also adds to the citrus feel. It feels very effervescent, a bit like lemonade or 7up. I can’t smell much cherry blossom or guava and I was hoping to smell papaya but I can’t detect that either. The most surprising thing about this scent is that it has a snow/ice/winter air note, a bit like Whirling Wind Moon, but with fruit instead of flowers. Something about that snowy backdrop seems to turn to ozone on me and it’s also a bit soapy. Maybe that’s the lunar herbs? After a while: the snow/ozone/floral backdrop gets really soapy and perfume-y. The lemongrass is also sharper than before, and the grapefruit now has a bitter peel scent to it. I’m not so keen on this by this point. I much preferred the sweet pinkness of the original. I was hoping to get papaya and guava here but there’s nothing that reminds me of that in here. Verdict: if the original CM is a scent reminiscent of spring, this is most definitely a winter scent-which I suppose would fit as this scent was released in January. Very different to the original, which was all about the cherry blossom and guava, a fluffy, fun pink scent with very slight accents of citrus. This is the other way round-it has a yellowish-white-silver feel, cold and airy with frosted citrus and only subtle hints of sweeter fruit and cherry blossoms. I was a bit surprised as to how ‘snowy’ this scent is, reminiscent of some of the Yule scents, and it’s the ozone-scented snow note that I’m not so keen on. The citrus notes are also a bit too overwhelming, turning to cologne at times. I loved the original so I’m a bit let down by this version-maybe if I got more of the papaya and guava I would have preferred it. Is it a keeper? no, I’ll stick with the first release. If you like this, try: Cheshire Moon (original), Aizen Myoo, Schrodinger’s Cat, Skytyping with Chemtrails, Yellow Snowballs, Whirling Wind Moon, Night Gaunt

Pumpkin II 2012 In the imp: this reminds me of L’Autunno bath oil meets Pumpkin Latte. Sweet patchouli and mossy wood with pumpkin and coffee. Wet on skin: very reminiscent of the more autumnal patchouli scents, but with a buttery pumpkin backdrop. Dry on skin: this is very much like the autumnal ‘forest floor with a foody sweetness’ patchouli in Tricksy and L’Autunno bath oils, and also reminds me of Falling Leaf Moon. But the scent this reminds me of most of all is Arcana’s Leaves Falling Like Rain! It lacks the spices, and it is a bit more pumpkin-y, but there is a similarity in that coffee and earth and decaying vegetation smell. It suits today’s weather (foggy, damp, grey, mild) perfectly. The teak adds a rich woody undertone, and the tonka sweetens everything up. After a while: now the cypress comes out, and it has that wonderful sappy/resinous scent to it, gives the whole scent a touch of evergreen, warmer than pine or juniper. The patchouli-tonka-teak (which is similar in feel to Antikythera Mechanism) scent is still going strong but the pumpkin latte smell isn’t as obvious now. The patchouli and wood get stronger and it eventually becomes a kind of warm teak with earthy patchouli underneath, and a waft of something that reminds me of incense. Verdict: this is a perfect scent for one of those grey autumn days when the fallen leaves are wet and squishy underfoot, it combines the smell of pumpkin latte (not spiced) with that classic October/November forest scent-damp woods, patchouli evoking the forest soil, a mix of deciduous and evergreen trees. It smells dark and humid and mysterious, but the teak and tonka smooth out and sweeten the scent, making it feel cosy. I may well get more of this. Is it a keeper? it’s potentially bottleworthy, and I’m keeping the tester. If you like this, try: Halloween at Miskatonic University, Falling Leaf Moon, Pumpkin Latte, L’Autunno, Tricksy bath oil, Samhain, Elegy IX The Autumnal

The Book In the vial: a slightly cologney but definitely bookish scent, reminiscent of Philologus and India Ink. Wet on skin: resinous leather and ink, pages and dust, a dash of pleasant perfume… Dry on skin: this is gorgeous! The predominant scent here is of ink, specifically the same India ink as the single note, with those wonderful resin and sooty/peppery tones to it, but this one has a stronger paper note to it, which reminds me of other bookish scents like Buggre Alle This and Lurid Library. The paper here is wonderfully aged and yellowed, and I’m actually surprised-other reviewers are saying this is leather heavy, but I think this a lot less leathery than the other book scents, this is much more about the smell of the pages rather than the cover. There’s a wonderful incense smoke scent too. After a while: it smells just like old paper now! Just like a book with a crinkled, worn cover, yellow dog-eared pages falling out…the kind of book that has been read, re-read, read again and loved. A much purer paper smell with printed ink-whereas before it was more like ink that had been written on the page by hand with a fountain pen, now it smells more like the second hand books I’m familiar with. It now also has that old library smell that I love, a tiny hint of bookshelf, a coating of dust. Verdict: it’s a darker version of Aziraphale, or a younger Dee. It seems as though the pages of this book have been absorbing incense smoke through the centuries, but it doesn’t smell like a Bible in a church-it smells like something a little more magical, more occult, the sort of book that is full of spells or incantations to summon spirits, though the incense does fade to leave a more straightforward ‘old book’ scent. If you missed out the chance to try India Ink SN or have trouble finding any to test, this is the closest in the GC to that scent. That particular ink note seems to be used in there, along with a wonderfully authentic paper note. Of all the book/library scents, I think this one is the most accurate. Is it a keeper? definitely, and I need to get a bottle one of these days! If you like this, try: Dee, The Buggre Alle This Bible, Aziraphale, Lurid Library, Philologus, India Ink SN, U (Mutter Museum)

Third Charm In the imp: yes, this is a Snake-ish musk scent with honey. It reminds me of Womb Furie, but a bit muskier. Wet on skin: the musk develops an odd ‘peanut’ smell, not so sure about that-I think that could be the cedar or the patchouli (sometimes those notes are oddly nutty on me). Dry on skin: this could go either way…the musk is incredible, rich and heady and sweet, darkened by patchouli, with a honey note that smells more like beeswax or honey incense. I love the way those notes interact, it reminds me of the Infernal Lover but much better because the honey is more obvious. But the champaca, along with that weird peanut smell and something vaguely herbal (the hemlock?) seem to want to turn this scent against me. There is a hint of something almost ‘dragon’s bloody’. After a while: thankfully it’s the red musk and honey that seem to win, and I’m glad because champaca tends to do bad things on my skin, but not here. For now the musk and honey, and a bit of patchouli, are the dominant notes, and they smell wonderful. The nutty scent seems to be less obvious now. Typical, just as I say that it’s not nutty, the peanut butter scent comes back. Drat. And it was so promising before! It then keeps swinging between nutty and musky. Verdict: I love the red musk here. Love love love it. Combined with the honey, it makes this scent a sibling of Womb Furie or the Infernal Lover, but it’s even richer and sexier-a honey dusted musky incense rather than the purer red musk of IL or the Snake Oil vanilla of WF. But there’s something off about it-weird notes of peanut butter (I’m guessing a weird reaction with the cedar or patchouli), hemlock and champaca seem to get in the way at times, spoiling the glorious honeyed red musk. It’s a bit disappointing but I’ll give it another shot, because I want it to work on me! Is it a keeper? maybe-I certainly need to retest it! If you like this, try: Womb Furie, Infernal Lover, Bien Loin D’Ici, Sed Non Satiata, Lust

Smoky Moon 2012 In the imp: incense, like an incense stick but more sophisticated than your average joss stick. It reminds me of one of the Egyptian scents, maybe Great Cry in Egypt, but smokier and more patchouli-ed. Wet on skin: spicier and woodier now, with elements of saffron, opium and sandalwood (I know, not listed notes) and a bit of grapefruit and elemi. Dry on skin: smoky and shadowy but also golden and shimmering. The amber, elemi and grapefruit (which is very subtle) are probably the reason for the sparkling accents in the smoke, but I swear I smell saffron even though it’s not listed. The champaca is the same one from Panther Moon, the type that smells like really good quality nag champa, except this isn’t as dark and musky as PM. The patchouli is very incense-y, almost like opium smoke, and quite different to the earthy patchouli I’m used to in BPAL. The orris makes this a much lighter patchouli/incense scent than usual, and the woods add a dry feel to it all. The only downside is that it’s quite faint, like the scent that lingers after incense has been burned rather than the actual burning of incense. After a while: fizzy incense! It’s a combination of ashes (enhanced by orris’s powdery grey scent) and smoke with an effervescent undertone that is probably grapefruit, maybe combined with davana. It’s still a surprisingly light patchouli-nag champa-wood-spice incense blend, mysterious and haunting, but I was expecting it to be a tad stronger. The smokiness is really intriguing though, it bears a resemblance to light tobacco and opium but is very different too, it’s more like gently smouldering fragrant woods, or like very good quality incense sticks. The amber is surprisingly absent now, I was hoping for it to add a bit of sweetness. Verdict: the best way I can describe this is ‘glittering smoke’. It’s like a waft of spicy patchouli-dominated incense smoke with something golden and sparkly about it. It’s different to the last Smoky Moon which was silvery, more floral, and with a tobacco note which overwhelmed everything, but the smoke here is not overpowering, it’s like thin streams of smoke from incense sticks in a temple gently scenting the space, along with the smell of the ashes of that incense. It’s a meditative scent, and one of the brighter incense blends. It is different to the usual resin-heavy incenses I gravitate towards, this is much drier, almost dusty, spicy and woody, more about the smoke itself than what produces the smoke. I like it but I’m not sure whether to keep the bottle, I tend to prefer the richer, headier resin incenses with a lot of throw, and this one is very much a ‘close to the skin’ scent. Is it a keeper? not sure whether to keep the decant-I think the champaca is getting a bit too strong for my tastes as it ages. If you like this, try: Paramatan, Hippie Ghost, Epomophorus Monstrosus, Kathmandu, Tushamatay, Panther Moon, Evil, Romanti Goth, Thousands of Lights

Mouse Circus In the vial: salted peanuts and popcorn with a sweet undertone…it smells like peanut brittle! Wet on skin: salty peanuts and a bit more vanilla. Dry on skin: this does smell like treats from the fair or circus-caramelised peanuts, popcorn, candyfloss and other sweets…the peanut note seems to fade a little, and the popcorn becomes more prominent. This isn’t buttery popcorn like Shill (thankfully-I found the buttery note in there overwhelming) but it’s definitely salty! The candyfloss/spun sugar notes are gorgeous-a bit sweeter and pinker than Midway, and lacking the ‘deep fried sweet treats’ note in that scent. The vanilla is similar though. The wood seems to ground the scent. After a while: the peanut and popcorn fade away to leave behind the loveliest scent of vanilla and spun sugar with a bit of sandalwood at the base. The best part? It smells almost identical to Underpants on me! I think the sugar is a bit whiter/pinker than the golden Underpants sugar, but the vanilla-wood combination is almost identical. It also reminds me of the 13 from October 2006. There’s a tiny bit of nutty richness, like the caramelised nuts in CD023, but the full-on peanut scent is gone. I think it smells more like pecans (like Copulating Mice, strangely enough!) than peanuts by now. Verdict: this is such a fun scent! It fits that particular scene in the story perfectly. I smell pleasantly salted popcorn and nuts and candyfloss, and also a less gourmand furry vanilla-wood base that strengthens and remains once the candyfloss and popcorn are consumed. The scent is almost midway (heh!) between Midway and Monster Bait Underpants, with a bit more nuttiness thrown in. One to add to the bottle list! Is it a keeper? definitely the decant. Will probably get bottle once I finish the decant. If you like this, try: Midway, Monster Bait Underpants, 13 (Oct 06 version), CD023, The Snack Hut, Silver Haired Bat, Elephantine Colossus

Mischief In the imp: intensely caramelised/treacly pumpkin-like Candied Pumpkin or the Honey Pumpkin Stout bath oil. Wet on skin: interesting. The pumpkin note in here smells RAW! No really-it’s a raw, juicy pumpkin, sweetish and pulpy. I also smell treacle and papery soap. Dry on skin: a strange but not unpleasant smell. I don’t smell raw eggs, though maybe the caramel note might be a kind of custard/crème brulee, some kind of eggy dessert. I don’t smell maple leaves but I do smell maple syrup. The main note is pumpkin. It smells just like carving a pumpkin-I can smell the fibres, seeds and juice, it smells raw and wet and gourd-like. It’s a vegetal smell and despite the hints of sweetness, it’s not at all like pumpkin pie, buttery pumpkin etc, it’s the first BPAL I’ve smelt with this kind of pumpkin. Other than that I can also smell tissue paper-the kind that has its own floral fragrance-and soap. The clean and papery notes contrast with the foody notes. After a while: this then ends up like the Honey Pumpkin Stout, but cleaner, less smoky, but there’s some serious maple syrup in here. I was hoping for more of an autumn leaf smell but it’s sweet and sticky syrup. The pumpkin has faded into the eggy dessert backdrop (so now it smells like pumpkin custard) and it still has that clean, slightly cotton-y paper smell. Verdict: it smells, like I expected, like the Trick scents from a previous Inquisition mixed together (Pumpkin Smash, TP’d Trees etc). It’s a bizarre and slightly cacophonous mix, but it’s not unpleasant. The highlight of the scent is the amazingly accurate raw pumpkin note. But I’m not keen on the heavy maple syrup/caramel and soapy/floral toilet paper scent. It’s a fascinating scent though, totally unlike anything else I’ve smelt before! Is it a keeper? no. If you like this, try: TP’d Trees, Egged Mailbox, Pumpkin Smash, Honey Pumpkin Stout, Candied Pumpkin

Eight Petalled Lotus In the imp: COMPLETELY different from the sweet, pink, bubblegummy Lotus SN that came out ages ago. This is fresh, tart, watery and grapefruity (of all things). Wet on skin: fresh and crisp with a bitter fruity scent. Dry on skin: this one is intriguing. It’s not a bubblegum lotus like Black Lotus, Undertow, Naiad etc. nor is it the smooth golden lotus from Bastet or Glowing Vulva. This is the lotus note from the 2010 incarnation of Lotus Moon-I was puzzled as to why that scent had a grapefruit note to it, and now I realise it’s this particular lotus. Though in here it’s less fruity than LM 2010, and not sweet. I think this is also the lotus in Creeping Mist. There’s an aquatic or blue musk feel to it. It’s very clean, but not soapy. It’s floral but not heavy. It also reminds me of Ophelia (which has waterlily) and Danube (even though there is no lotus note listed, but maybe there’s waterlily or lotus in the aquatics in there) and also one of the Japanese scents-I think it’s the Fox Ghost one-that has blue musk and resins. After a while: this does fade fast. The wet, grapefruity floral scent from before has toned down and now smells crisper and whiter, almost like linen but not as dry or washing powder-like, but it’s not very strong. Verdict: if you think you hate lotus, put your preconceptions about this flower aside, and try this. It seems there are many varieties of lotus and this one is a perfect waterlily scent, fresh and wet, clean and tart, slightly grapefruity, slightly ozone-y or blue musky, and with a blossom-like floral aspect. This is a very refreshing scent that’s perfect for spring or summer, light and dainty but also ethereal. Like Spanish Red Carnation this is another very complex single note, lots of dimensions to this seemingly simple floral. Is it a keeper? It’s very pretty but it fades too fast on me. If you like this, try: Lotus Moon 2010, Ophelia, Danube, Creeping Mist

Aunt Rosie’s All Purpose Cephalopod bath oil (Skin test) In vial: rice flower and astringent tea. A lot more tea-heavy than expected. On skin: sharp greenish-black tea, a bit like fresh Tattered Lace, with undertones of coconut and sweet rice and a surprisingly strong hit of raw ginger. Not floral ginger, but the slightly lemony ginger from Kumiho or Baobhan Sith that seems to team up with the tea to make a very sharp citrus-astringent-spicy scent. I was hoping for a bit more creaminess from the coconut and rice milk, but those notes aren’t as strong as the sharp notes. The ambergris adds a bit of a ‘perfumey’ scent to the tea-ginger combination. The drydown reminds me of a coconut version of Tamamo No Mae! It’s got a similar blend of sweet floral-creamy rice and benzoin with a sharp fruity tea and ginger combination. This would layer nicely with Tamamo and also Hungry Ghost Moon (both versions).

Blossoms in Springtime In the imp: a very buttery vanilla, like cake batter or buttercream. Wet on skin: now I smell more of the copal/amber and honey, and vanilla flower. Dry on skin: the vanillas are a combination of gourmand sweetness and something a bit more floral and musky. The resinous notes here are fabulous, the copal doesn’t smell too perfumey and the antique amber is an incredible golden scent with a hint of spice, like Nepalese amber. The honey is very similar to A Wonderful Light, probably because of the beeswax-it’s not a sticky or sharp honey, but there is more of a hint of pollen here (though that may be the helichrysum). The lotus I smell is the soft velvety petal scent from Glowing Vulva. In fact I agree with other reviewers in that this seems like the best of Glowing and Giant Vulva. After a while: this is what I wanted O to smell like! This is a wonderful mix of amber, honey/beeswax and vanilla. The vanilla is strongest, and it doesn’t smell as buttery but it still has a foody richness, almost like vanilla cream. The amber stops it from turning cloying or overly gourmand though, and adds a glowing golden resinous aspect to the scent. The honey is much more subtle, I smell more of a waxy honeycomb thing going on, it’s not as sticky-honey scented as Giant Vulva. This is also softer and sweeter. The vanilla gets stronger and richer as time passes, smelling less foody and more like a deep sexy vanilla with a hint of floral, it reminds me slightly of that amazing Elf v4 prototype, except with added amber and honey/beeswax. Verdict: this is as amazing as I expected. A must for lovers of vanilla, this shows off vanilla to its full potential whilst still being different to the likes of Celeste or Love’s Philosophy. It’s a well-balanced blend of gourmand, resinous and floral elements. Golden notes of amber, honey, beeswax and copal boost the vanilla and the lotus and helichrysum add the gentlest touches of flowery prettiness without overtaking the vanilla goodness. I also love the way the vanilla improves on the skin over time, I’d imagine this scent to age incredibly well. I need more of this one. Is it a keeper? definitely one bottle, maybe two! If you like this, try: Glowing Vulva, Giant Vulva, A Wonderful Light, Celeste, O, Love’s Philosophy, Snake Oil

Hungry Ghost Moon 2011 In the imp: a slightly dissonant blend of ginger, slightly sour cream, and a sharp perfumey scent shooting right through the scent. Wet on skin: not too bad now, the perfumey scent is still there, the sourness has gone but the ginger has amplified. Dry on skin: this is weird. There’s a very grainy scent to it, like porridge. Maybe it’s the rice note? It smells less sweet than the usual rice note, and before long it seems to turn from a slightly oaty or brown rice scent to a really realistic white rice scent, like the scent of steaming rice served on palm leaves. I’d say it’s somewhere between long grain and basmati. Other than the rice, there’s also a very strong ginger note. Not crystallised ginger, not fizzy ginger ale, not dry ginger, but the smell of freshly cut ginger or ginger juice. It’s tangy and fiery but with a greenish-yellow tinge. I swear I smell coconut milk, even though it’s not listed, as well as lemongrass and/or grapefruit. I get a feel of Thai food from this. The musk note does smell strident and almost perfumey, clean and bright. I don’t smell wisteria. After a while: this is one of the most changeable perfumes ever! It’s morphing constantly. The steamy rice and Thai food scent then turns to a weird gingery sour milk scent, halfway between White Rabbit and Sudha Segara. Then it turns into an odd dusty hay-floral scent with ginger. And then it turns into sharp cologne. There’s even a fleeting moment when this smells like the original HGM. But the drydown after a few hours is all about the sandalwood and musk, and far from being crystalline and ethereal, this is a musk that is dark and deep but warm. It smells very much like the musk in Oblivion or Morocco (because of the sandalwood), but it doesn’t have the sweetness of Morocco-in fact, where is the vanilla in here, or the candy notes? and I do think there’s some myrrh here too. Verdict: very, very different to the 2006 version. I love the original and the way all the complex notes interact to create a seamless blend of citrus, musk, resin, candied ginger and woods, very coherent, balanced, fresh and bright but also very stable-it doesn’t change too much. This, on the other hand, is the mother of all morphers. There’s an emphasis on gourmand notes, with creamy ginger and fragrant rice, it seems the ghosts in this scent are hungrier. Then there’s a jumble of musks, resins and citrus, and the scent seems to change every few minutes-from ginger to musk to grapefruit to resin. It’s quite an olfactory rollercoaster ride, but a bit too much for me, it’s like the scent can’t make up its mind on what it wants to be. I prefer the coherence, stability and fruitier scent of the original. Is it a keeper? no. If you like this, try: Hungry Ghost Moon 06, Sudha Segara, White Rabbit, Shub Niggurath, Mother Ginger, Maison en Pain D’Epices

In the imp: herbal lavender and a hint of something soapy. Wet on skin: not soapy and more, it’s actually a purple musk with lavender. Dry on skin: ooh, this is pretty. This reminds me of a lighter, less sweet version of the Emathides. It’s very much about lavender and violet with a hint of dark amber incense and musk, a dry blackcurrant note and some woods. I can’t smell fig here yet but the combination of all those deep hypnotic purple notes is quite something. The scent has a surprisingly clean feel to it, but not soapy. If the amber and musk get a little stronger this could be a winner. After a while: SOAP. Powdery dusty soap. I am very disappointed. The amber and incense notes are nowhere to be found, all I can smell is a violet musk that has lost it’s character and has turned to a grey, powdery and slightly old fashioned smell with a hint of hotel soap to it. No fig or currant at all. Verdict: this one really, really let me down. I was hoping for something reminiscent of Odd Portents, and I usually love those lavender-blackcurrant-amber-incense blends, and I can’t work out which note what malfunctioned on me because the note list suggested this would be amazing. It started out nice with its lavender-violet-fruit-incense scent, but then it turned to an awful dusty soap scent, like washing powder and cheap violet-scented soap blended together. All those lovely notes from before were gone. What a shame… Is it a keeper? no. If you like this, try: On Darkness, The Emathides, Ninon, Odd Portents, Penumbra