yeahbutnobut

The Phoenix at Midnight In the imp: whoa, rosewood and plenty of it! It’s a harsh, almost medicinal wood in here. Wet on skin: so much rosewood. I hope the musk and honeysuckle come out soon because the wood here is amping to the heavens. Dry on skin: spicy, sweetish, dry rosewood. Not as medicinal but it does have that dry rose petals and sawdust smell going on. I think I smell a pleasant jasmine note underneath, as well as a cool dark iris. The wood does seem to calm though as a velvety musk seems to rise up through the scent. No honeysuckle here yet but the floral notes are very pretty, like dewy night flowers, this reminds me a bit of the scents inspired by bats. I think this has the potential to turn into something amazing but I think the notes need to settle… After a while: and settle they do, and as predicted, this does turn into something fantastic. A haunting blend of iris and dry yet warm wood with the kind of furry musk that makes me want to nuzzle my nose in my wrist in glee. The iris is sweet yet slightly watery and fresh, but it becomes more of a dusty orris a few hours later. The jasmine is so faint, as is the honeysuckle (unfortunately) but I’m pleasantly surprised at the rosewood-normally I’m not crazy about it but here it works very well, reminding me a bit of the sandalwood-orris combo in Staged Moon Landing. Verdict: this is my favourite of the 2011 phoenix scents. It’s a really beautiful, cool nocturnal musk and despite containing jasmine and rosewood, it works really nicely on me. It reminds me of Cold Hour of Dawn, but it’s darker, warmer, and more mature. The musk and iris go really well together, and the rosewood adds a nice base, this wood is almost spicy in this scent. The only thing that disappoints me about this scent is the lack of honeysuckle…I was hoping it would show up but I think either my skin eats the BPAL honeysuckle note, or it’s a very quiet note. Even the jasmine is quiet here. But that doesn’t matter because this scent perfectly captures the mysteries of the midnight hour. Is it a keeper? I managed to get a half bottle. If you like this, try: The Cold Hour of Dawn, Silver Phoenix, Staged Moon Landing, Bat, Blue Moon 2010 (Beth’s), Parthenope

Tears, Idle Tears In the imp: soft salty-sweet water. It has the sweetness of the river/lake scents but also a hint of salt to it. Wet on skin: oh my. This reminds me of my Egyptian lotus perfume. Dry on skin: really beautiful. It reminds me first and foremost of a perfume a friend got me from Egypt, which smells like blue lotus. This doesn’t have lotus as a note but I smell it, a fresh clean floral with a watery scent. however I must say that this one is a lot saltier than the Egyptian perfume, it’s like a lotus flower with a splash of sea water. It also reminds me of the brackish scent of Coney Island Creek, but a lot more feminine. It also reminds me of Penthus, the scent of tears and roses. I think I smell a tiny bit of resin and wood. After a while: a fresh aquatic floral. This reminds me of Sea of Glass now, but with that lovely blue-white flower note that makes me think of waterlily. It still reminds me of the lotus scent, but it’s now a bit ozone-y like some of the sea air BPALs, and there’s a light musk, maybe white musk, but that could be the orris. Not much rose or amber at this point (other than a bit of warm sweetness). After a few hours I smell more of the olibanum, and a very gentle oude note-not the usual dry woody scent I get from that note. But the dominant scent is still that of the aquatic notes. Verdict: this is a surprisingly nice aquatic! It’s not soapy; it smells fresh and clean without smelling like washing powder. It reminds me of the Nile goddess inspired scents, or of blue lotus Egyptian perfume, but there’s a bit more saltiness here. The ‘tears’ note here smells more like a sea breeze to me, it’s airy, almost like ozone. I like the way the other notes ground the scent though, especially the resins that come out more as the scent develops. It’s a very pretty scent, but I’m not sure if it’s a favourite. Is it a keeper? I may keep it but I think there are other scents like this that I prefer. If you like this, try: Sea of Glass, Pool of Tears, Penthus, Epitaph, Hatmehit, Festival of Anuket

Blood and Champagne In the imp: a blend of champagne with Coca Cola, and vanilla amber! The oil is champagne coloured with no obvious dragon’s blood redness. Wet on skin: it smells like Coke, all bubbles and fizzy brown sweetness. Dry on skin: the champagne smells just as effervescent and oddly gin-like and soapy as the one in Sangria Champagne (smells more like G&T than champagne to me), but instead of citrus and red wine, there’s a Coke scent which I am sure is due to spices and resins. I smell vanilla and amber (maybe Nepalese amber?) I am also sure that there’s myrrh and/or opoponax, or whatever it is that’s in Schwarzer Mond that adds that very pleasant Coke-like scent. There may also be some spices like a mild cinnamon or clove note. Maybe even some lime? One thing that seems absent is the blood…or at least, dragon’s blood. Maybe the blood here is more like the spicy and musky blood accord. After a while: this reminds me a bit of the Magi at times, but the Magi has a lot more emphasis on resins, and a much, much milder champagne note. The champagne in WC scents is too much for me…it’s still going strong with its extremely fizzy fragrance. It’s not as soapy/ginny now, it smells more like ginger ale, and I really like the sweet resins underneath. This reminds me more of one of the numbered prototypes that doesn’t have a proper name, maybe PRC12? It also reminds me of something from Chaos Theory. The scent then settles into an effervescent resin scent, at this point I smell more clove and also something that could well be dragon’s blood-it’s got that red and chemical scent I recognise from that note. It isn’t strong though. I swear I smell a tiny, tiny amount of vetiver. Verdict: this one is intriguing. It smells like Coca Cola with extra fizz, maybe a blend of Coke and champagne. It’s not as dragon’s bloody as I expected, and there’s a lot of incense and sweetness going on, a bit of spice too. It’s more like champagne and sweet myrrh with Blood Amber (with an emphasis on amber), as well as the clove-patchouli-metallic red musk scent I get in the ‘blood accord’ perfumes. The drydown has more of a slightly smoky vetiver, vanilla and clove thing to it, a bit like Blood Kiss but not as intensely bloody/dark or fruity. I’m still not mad about the WC champagne scents though, as the champagne note seems to be distorted once it develops on my skin, but this is probably my favourite of the series. Is it a keeper? not really. If you like this, try: Blood Amber, The Magi, Sangria Champagne, Blood Kiss, Blood

Beaver Moon 2011 In the imp: strong lavender and a bit of creamy honey. This must be the cheesecake version. Wet on skin: the lavender and honey go together really well, and the creamy undertone has hints of vanilla and crushed biscuits. Dry on skin: mmm, this is definitely the cheesecake version and it is really good. The lavender is a sweetish, heady, almost ambery version, and it’s the dominant note here. The honey is more like a sweet glaze or a fluffy nougat scent-a bit like the white honey in Valse Finale or the Half Elf prototype. The cheesecake isn’t as strong and cream cheesy as the previous Beaver Moons (and doesn’t seem to smell plastic like BeaverVersary), but it has that same heavy vanilla cream and crushed biscuit base thing going on, and there’s even a hint of cinnamon. I think the lavender stops the cheesecake note from turning cloying. After a while: I spoke too soon when I said ‘no plastic’. I now smell a faint hint of plastic. It’s a little hint of that ‘doll head’ scent that I get from other cheesecake scents. Thankfully it is faint and the gorgeous honey note is keeping it under control. I love the honey here; it reminds me of nougat or white chocolate Toblerone, it’s got hints of beeswax/honeycomb and cocoa butter to it. Verdict: I’ve tried both versions of BM 2011, and I can see why people are going crazy over the cheesecake version. It really is good, and I’m not the greatest fan of sweet cream cheese/really creamy dessert notes. I love sweet lavender scents, lavender-vanilla combinations, lavender honeys…I think this is the nicest Beaver Moon so far because it’s not too cloying despite the obvious cheesecake base and a particularly gourmand sugary ‘whipped honey’ note. The lavender keeps the foody notes toned down a bit, and the honey here is so good anyway that even if the cheesecake does go a little bit plastic at drydown, I don’t mind. I’m certainly keeping what I have of this. Is it a keeper? just the decant. If you like this, try: other Beaver Moons, Victorian Garden, TKO

Waraizome In the imp: candied lemon verbena. I have a feeling this will be all verbena and little else on me. Wet on skin: less sweet, more herbal, there’s a tiny bit of anise but it’s subtle. This is mainly verbena and camomile now. Dry on skin: cologne. This smells just like proper eau de cologne now, it’s strong and lemony and sharp. It reminds me of a cross between Tartine et Chocolat (the first perfume I ever wore) and those lemon refresher towels they give you in Chinese restaurants or on planes. The anise and sassafras give it an almost clinical undertone that reminds me of pure alcohol, the kind used to dress wounds. The camomile is gorgeous but it’s totally smothered by the lemon refreshing towels and alcohol smell. After a while: cologne, verbena and a hint of cold herbal tinctures. I’m surprised this doesn’t have white tea or absinthe as notes as there are definite hints of both scents in here. There’s something to this, most probably the moss, which reminds me of the smell of spas or saunas, that steamy, mineral-herbal scent, very clean without being soapy. I’m a bit sad at the lack of camomile, but the sandalwood shows up a few hours later. Verdict: this one is strange. I knew it wouldn’t do so well on me and I was right. The verbena, as predicted, amped up as soon as it hit my skin, and turned the whole thing into the scent of lemony refresher towels, right down to that hint of alcohol or cologne they have. Then the anise comes out more at the end, and the whole thing ends up smelling like some kind of clear booze or even something medicinal. I didn’t get much of the camomile and sandalwood. Not my thing. Is it a keeper? no. If you like this, try: Mocking the Invisible World With Its Own Shadows, Phantom, Arcana, Absinthe, Embalming Fluid

Ondurdis In the imp: yup, it’s Skadi alright. Iced-up berries and snow covered pines. Wet on skin: frozen pine and berries, with a hint of spicy holly berry. Dry on skin: this scent is cold and bracing and clears the nose, which fits the winter wind description. I think there’s eucalyptus or camphor here, or a menthol component, or maybe wintergreen? Something here smells vaguely medicinal, but it doesn’t get in the way of the fact that this is definitely reminiscent of Skadi. I haven’t tried that scent for ages but this does remind me of what I remember of it-the same frozen berry note with a hint of festive spice, the same icy evergreens, that slushy scent which is almost like sugary citrus at times. I’d say this has a stronger menthol or ozone note though. After a while: after a moment when the fruity notes here start to smell fermented and off, this then turns nice again, but has lost the piercing coldness it started with. It now smells like sugared winter berries with a hint of pine needles. Not bad. Warmer and sweeter than Skadi, I think. It’s actually reminiscent of Winternights by Arcana. However there’s a downside to this scent and that is that it is very faint! The almost ice cream-y berry scent needs a lot of sniffing close to the wrist to really appreciate it. Verdict: this, as expected, is very similar to Skadi-it has the same blend of ‘classic BPAL snow’ with red berries and frosted pines, except this one is fainter and has a tendency of fading rather fast, something I don’t think Skadi did. The first few minutes of wear are best, where you can smell the iced berries and snowy mountain forests with a brisk coldness like camphor/menthol that suggests winter wind. This then quietens to leave a hint of sweet berry and pine needles, but it’s such a faint scent, and disappears after about two hours. It’s pretty but too short lived. Is it a keeper? no. If you like this, try: Snow Moon, Skadi (if you can find it!), Yellow Snowballs, The First Soft Snow, Snow Bunny, The Old Goblin, Snow Maiden

Anyone have pics of the BPTP Lupers, or more BPAL Lupers?

The Phoenix at Dawn In the imp: smells a bit like lemonade or Sprite. The champagne note reminds me of the WC exclusive scents. Wet on skin: fizzy! This smells like a citrus soft drink, and the bubbles going up your nose. Dry on skin: now it smells like Lush! yes, really! It smells like that lemony, rosy, ‘bath bomb dust’ smell you get in a Lush shop. There’s a carbonated scent there (thanks to the champagne). There’s a floral note now, lots of rose and orange blossom, as well as effervescent grape and lemonade, a hint of bitter grapefruit peel and a tiny bit of vanilla musk to soften it all up. I swear I smell lime too even though it’s not listed. It’s a very happy scent, very optimistic. It reminds me a bit of Sol Invictus but with a lot more citrus and with rose instead of resins. After a while: the grapefruit sticks around for a lot longer than expected, and it smells a little too bitter for me. It’s not like the grapefruit from Schrodinger’s Cat which is more of a juicy smell, this reminds me of grapefruit peel. Now that the lemon and orange and rose have calmed a little, I smell more of the champagne, and I’m not sure if I’m crazy about it. It has that weird fizzy yet oddly metallic gin-like scent that I wasn’t so keen about in the will call champagne scents. Verdict: you can’t help but smile when you smell this, it’s so ebullient. It’s the antithesis of me in the morning-instead of hitting the snooze button for the millionth time; this phoenix is raring to go as soon as the sun is up, full of optimism for a new day. And it probably started by taking a bath with an assortment of Lush bath bombs instead of a shower, because that’s what this really smells like to me in the just-dry stage. It’s very chirpy and joyful with its fizzing citrus and roses and vanilla and I like it, but the drydown is flat champagne (and juniper?) and bitter grapefruit, I’m not so keen on that, especially because the rose, vanilla and orange blossom seem to disappear by then. Seems this phoenix eventually got burnt out after getting up so early. Shame, because I really liked the Lush-like scent I get in the first hour of wear. Is it a keeper? probably not. If you like this, try: Sol Invictus, Bess, Catherine, Changing the Shadows, Bijoux Yha’nthlei, Ra, La Vita Nuova, Champagne and Roses

Senelion In the bottle: rich, dark, sexy red musk. Mmmm… Wet on skin: ohh, is that Nepalese amber, with its hint of cardamom? Dry on skin: the scent still has that raunchy musky undertone with an amber glow, but what I smell now is the camomile-quite a lot of camomile, the lotus root and orris, maybe the mallow, and a tiny, tiny hint of anise. This is really lovely-there is a hint of some of the lunar scents to it, like the Blue Moon or Black Moon scents, with those pale floral and herbal notes, but there’s that wonderful deep musky scent underneath. Very unusual and delightful. After a while: the musks get stronger once more after that moment with the floral/herbal/pale and dusty lunar notes. The red and black musks are fantastic-rich and dark and slightly sweet, there’s something almost reminiscent of Infernal Lover and Panther Moon to the musk notes here. The camomile sticks around too but I really like how it interacts with the musks. I’ve not smelt this combination of notes before. The drydown is just the most perfect sexy red musk ever. Oh yeah. The amber adds a hint of sweetness and golden luminosity but it’s really dominated by the musks, red musk with a shadow of black musk underneath. The red musk and amber then become the dominant notes, the sweet golden scent of the amber with an almost fruity darker musk underneath. This musk is the same gourmand red musk that’s in the Soldier and Red Lace, it seems almost like it’s got hints of raspberry or some other kind of red fruit to it as well as vanilla. I agree with comments about it being a darker L’Estate too, because of the amber. Verdict: warning, lots of superlatives coming up…this is my favourite of the lunar eclipse scents so far! Take the most delicious of musks and the most gorgeous spiced amber, put them together with a sprinkling of lunar and solar herbs and you get one of the most beautiful scents from BPAL. It starts out with the herbs, predominantly camomile and orris/lotus, but gradually the musks strengthen, merge with the amber, and the drydown turns into the best kind of ultra-sexy exotic gorgeousness that Beth excels at. That’s no exaggeration, it really is that good. In fact I’m lucky I managed to find a reasonably priced backup bottle because I have a feeling it’s going to age amazingly well. Is it a keeper? hell yeah, I’m so happy I’ve got two bottles of this! If you like this, try: Lunar Eclipse, Penumbra, Labores Solis, L’Estate, Blue Moon (especially Brian’s, or the 07 version), Black Moon (any), Midnight Kiss, Schwarzer Mond, Red Moon 07, Red Lace :love!:

Black Bear Moon In the bottle: honeyed hazelnuts, almost grainy berries and a pine resin note that smells like frankincense. Wet on skin: rich hazelnuts with a dark and fruity undertone. Dry on skin: this is a cosy scent. It smells of the same roasting chestnuts and hazelnuts combination from Nut Crack Night spray, but instead of caramel, there’s honey (which I prefer). It’s very rich without being creamy. There’s also the acorn note from Oak Moon, which also smells very rich and nutty. The cherry note is very subtle. Other than a dark fruity undertone (not too sweet though) I can’t really pick out cherry, but I do get the impression of cranberries and maybe blackcurrants here. The berries have the potential to go quite sharp and I hope they don’t ruin this. I can’t smell as much of the pine now, and I don’t get the fur either, but there’s a similar quality in this scent to Luna Negra or Schwarzer Mond, only less resinous and with nuts. After a while: the scent sweetens a bit more, and this reminds me of a kind of berry flapjack or crumble, which is no bad thing! Not as buttery as actual flapjacks or crumble, but the nuts seem to add a similar gourmand vibe. I swear I smell oats though, something that reminds me of cereal. And there’s that warm fruity filling, those cherries and berries reminding me of berry compote. I want to eat this up! The sad thing is I don’t seem to get the ‘cat belly’ everyone raves about but I do love smelling like fruit crumble! It manages to be foody on me without smelling sickly sweet, there’s a bite to the berries here. Seems fitting for the bear cub imagery-very cute, but with a bit of fierceness. The scent then develops a slight hint of fuzzy sweetness that reminds me of the ‘animalic’ note in Hunter Moon and other mammal themed scents that smells like furry musk, but it’s very quiet compared to the berries. Verdict: this is one of the cosiest scents ever made! It makes me want to snuggle down on a chilly day with a good book/film and eat fruit crumble, for that’s what this scent smells like to me-a berry crumble full of nuts and black cherry sauce. It’s warm and rich and smells edible, but doesn’t smell cloying thanks to the slight sharpness of the berries and cherries. The acorn and hazelnut are strong and the honey adds the right amount of sweetness. I wish I got the ‘cat fur’ note (I do get a dark furry musk after a little while) but I’m happy with the yummy scent I get, it’s comforting and perfect for those depressing winter days. Is it a keeper? yes! If you like this, try: Brood XIX, Halfling, Luna Negra, Oak Moon, The Soldier, Berry Moon 2011, Hunter Moon 2011

You could always send an email to the lab to ask about which honey and beeswax scents actually contain ingredients derived from real honey and beeswax, and which are made from purely vegan accords.

Oak Moon In the imp: the cologne-soaked autumn leaves from October, and wood. Wet on skin: piercing green cologne with mushy wet leaves and sweetish wood. Dry on skin: this is transforming. The dominant scent now is the oak note from Antikythera Mechanism, Haloes etc. it’s a pale, greenish, sweet wood almost like teak, but with more of a barky, leafy scent. Like sappy wood, freshly cut timber. I also smell a nutty scent that I’m sure is the acorn note, because it reminds me of Brood XIX. There’s also a weird, boozy note that reminds me of whisky (or whisky barrels) that I’m not keen on, as well as a hint of the cologne from before. But it seems to be developing a hint of vanilla. After a while: there’s still a hint of that boozy scent (now reminding me more of cognac than whisky) but now this has turned into a glorious vanilla wood! It’s like a lighter version of Tree of Life, lacking the cocoa and mandarin, it’s a sweet wood scent that’s almost creamy. The acorn here reminds me of hazelnut, it’s smooth and rich and a bit gourmand. It’s just a shame there’s that cognac-y note getting in the way. I never get any of the berries mentioned in other reviews. Verdict: this one started off smelling rather strange and unpleasant but this has such a fantastic drydown. At first it smells like dead leaves preserved in whisky and cologne with a hint of sweet wood, but then the boozy elements fade gradually to reveal the perfect smooth woody sweetness, like vanilla extract stored in oak barrels. The acorn provides an almost creamy nut scent. It smells almost like an edible tree, if such a thing were to exist. It’s not perfect because of the lingering odd booze note, but the sweet nutty vanilla infused oak I get from here at the end is worth the wait. Is it a keeper? I will keep my decant. If you like this, try: Tree of Life, Antikythera Mechanism, Brood XIX, How Doth the Little Crocodile, Haloes, Sonnet D'Automne

The Moon Gazed on my Midnight Labours In the imp: clove and musk, and something almost like patchouli. Wet on skin: warm clove, musk and a bit of dusty orris. Dry on skin: seems like my suspicious were correct-Moroccan musk does indeed smell like Morocco. That’s what this scent reminds me of at first. The clove takes the place of Morocco’s carnation and plays the same role, as the two notes smell quite similar. There’s a bit of orris, a note common to many of the lunar scents, giving the scent that familiar pale, dusty feel, reminds me of Morocco’s sandalwood. And then there’s the opium. In here, thankfully, it works. It’s a hypnotic, hazy note, not medicinal, perfumey or really strong, this is like the opium from Clermont, which smells more like incense than the traditional perfume scent I get from other opium scents. It doesn’t amp up either, it seems that all the notes are very balanced here. This is a really gorgeous scent. After a while: the scent doesn’t change much, but that’s a good thing because I love what it smells like already. If anything, the clove and opium are darker and deeper, and the musk is sweeter than before. It still reminds me of Morocco, but more nocturnal. Verdict: this was the Frankenstein scent I was looking forward to most, and it turns out to be my favourite in the collection. I imagined it as being a sultrier, darker version of Morocco and that’s exactly what it is! The Moroccan musk smells warm and sweet and velvety, the clove is as fantastic as usual, the orris adds a hint of pleasant powderiness. I was a little worried about the opium, but in here it works fantastically, it’s a smoky note snaking through the scent, giving the whole scent a dreamy haze. I don’t get soap or cologne here, nor do I think this is masculine, to me it perfectly illustrates the mystery and and magic of a moonlit night. I think I need a bottle of this haunting scent. Is it a keeper? definitely, I need more! If you like this, try: Morocco, Staged Moon Landing, Blue Moon 2009 (Beth’s version), Cytherea

Old Moon 2011 In the imp: a very leathery scent with a hint of cologne, reminds me of U. Wet on skin: perfumey leather! Is that rose? Dry on skin: this smells mainly of leather with lots of heavy perfume. The leathery scent is worn and dusty, and it reminds me of a cross between the leather from U and the leather from Dee. The ‘vintage perfume’ I smell here is dominated by rose and some more masculine aftershave-type notes. I can’t smell the old books yet, but there’s a hint of something that reminds me of old photos, or photo film, and also a scent that reminds me of old newspapers-it’s very inky. There is probably some tobacco here, as I smell a hint of ashes and cigars in this scent. I can’t smell the vanilla musk mentioned by others. I can smell a deep green scent from the vines, reminds me of the greenery in U, but it’s a deeper, ivy-like, less grassy green. After a while: unfortunately for me, this does contain tobacco, and lots of it, and it’s the bad variety. This now smells of cigarettes and burning on me, as well as hints of classic chypre aftershave and dead roses. There are old books and photos here, but it seems that they are on fire, as this now smells like charred paper thanks to the tobacco. There are also hints of cigars and whisky here. But I'm saddened by that unexpected tobacco note amping like crazy and blocking out most of the other notes. Verdict: I was really looking forward to this, the reviews were so favourable and I wanted this to evoke the scent of old things in the best way possible. This does smell of oldness, that’s for sure, there are hints of yellowed pages, dusty and wilted bouquets, worn leather and ink here, but there’s also a strong whiff of men’s perfume and worst of all, it has the tobacco note that goes straight to ashtrays on me. And that’s all I smell for much of the scent. None of the vanilla or musk, just cigar and cigarette smoke and ash. It reminds me, if anything, of the scents that evoke gentleman’s clubs and secret societies, and some of the Dogs Playing Poker line. Not my thing at all. Is it a keeper? Sadly not. If you like this, try: Buggre Alle This Bible, U, Dee, Lurid Library, Philologus, Romanti.Goth, Black Lace, Riding the Goat, A Bachelor’s Dog, Hellfire, The Committee of 300

The Last Evening of the Year In the imp: sour rose cologne and a hint of pine. Wet on skin: whoa, soapy and dusty linen! Dry on skin: an intriguing mix of spiced rose, clean linen, dust, and the BPAL snow note. The rose has a hint of cinnamon to it, which is very pleasant. It reminds me of Harlot, but not as strongly spicy, there may be clove here too. The rose also reminds me of Touched Twice, it’s strong but youthful. The linen note is a cross between the freshly laundered variety and something a little more dusty and moth-eaten. There is a hint of the snow note here, the same one from Snow Maiden or Snow Moon, it’s got a pine scent to it and there’s also a hint of red berry. There’s a strange dissonance here between the warm rose and berries and spices with the chilly linen and snow. After a while: soapy powder. Gone are the snowy skin and the spicy rose, all I smell is dusty but very clean linen, and washing powder. It’s much too detergent-like for me. The powdery scent with the faint remnants of rose reminds me of a kind of old fashioned potpourri smell. Verdict: this scent does tell a story as I first apply it…I get spices and remnants of Christmas trees suggesting festivities and happiness, mixing with opulent rose perfume, but all that contrasts with the scent of a young but vulnerable little girl dressed in rags shivering in the cold. It’s really amazing how Beth does it. I can understand why she cried when she made these scents. The drydown is disappointing after the poignant first stage of the scent (it turns to a generic washing powder smell with very faint rose) but I’m impressed by how the scent can really capture the emotion of what it describes. Not a ‘Happy New Year’s Eve’ scent by all means, but as a piece of perfumed narrative, it works. Is it a keeper? probably not, but I admire it for what it is. If you like this, try: The Pool of Tears, Penthus, Dirty, Snow Moon, Touched Twice, Tears, Idle Tears

Thousands of Lights In the vial: hmm, this smells like antiseptic or non-minty mouthwash. Not sure what that’s about. Wet on skin: no more antiseptic, but there’s a distinctive, almost effervescent scent of frankincense and saffron mixing with citrus. Dry on skin: this reminds me of No 93 Engine and Aelopile. The dominant scents are frankincense and saffron, and when mixed with wood and citrus, they make a scent that’s fizzy but also fiery and dry. Overall this scent is golden, almost metallic. There’s a similar scent in Labores Solis, but this reminds me primarily of the Steamworks line. I can’t really smell the vanilla or beeswax yet. It’s very pretty and there’s the potential for it to get even better at drydown. After a while: the beeswax scent isn’t as strong here as No 93, but I can smell it more now, along with a smooth, sweet vanilla. The saffron, frankincense and bergamot scent is still dominant though-it smells glittery and golden. The champaca is very faint here, which is interesting because normally I amp champaca. The drydown after a few hours is spicier than I expected, lots of saffron and hints of frankincense and wood. Maybe the champaca is doing this? I had a similar reaction with the champaca in Golden Apple of the Sun. Verdict: in contrast to A Wonderful Light, this scent is less like candles and more like sparklers, rather than glowing gently, the golden light of this scent scintillates and crackles. Almost like the younger, more festive sister of No 93 Engine, this scent has a similar resin-citrus-saffron thing to it but it smells livelier. The combination of saffron and frankincense has an unusual fizzy orange scent on me but in here it works very well, and it’s very saffron-y at the start, but it smooths out nicely once the beeswax and vanilla come in. It’s more evocative of New Year’s Eve than Christmas to me, and has the same feeling of optimism and radiance that A Wonderful Light has, only with a bit more glitter to it. Is it a keeper? yes-I have a bottle on order. If you like this, try: No 93 Engine, Pallas Athene, Aelopile, Robotic Scarab, A Wonderful Light, Labores Solis, Golden Apple of the Sun

A Torrent of Light In the imp: fresh and bright, eucalyptus that clears the nose, with a perfumey undertone. Wet on skin: frosty mint and a jolt of eucalyptus with white amber. Dry on skin: ozone leaps out, mixed with white amber, with the eucalyptus and mint lingering. These notes are like a winter wind, clean and clear, piercing and chilly. The kind of cold that cuts through you. The ozone here is of the electrical variety, not as sharp as the one in Lightning, but it has a crackling, metallic quality to it. The ozone and amber do combine to give a scent that reminds me of sporty perfume or clean linen, very clean and refreshing. The eucalyptus does clear the nose and mind but doesn’t smell medicinal. After a while: it smells perfumey now. Gone are the mint and eucalyptus, the ozone and amber stick around and it smells a bit like a mainstream perfume now. Not in a bad way, but I’m not sure I’m keen on it. Reminds me a bit of something I’d smell in a West End department store. It reminds me of Ether and Pollution as well. The ozone is all that’s left after a few hours, very little white amber remains by then. At this point the ozone reminds me of Archangel Winter, but a bit sharper and soapier. Verdict: a blinding white light is what this evokes, like a bolt of lightning. It is almost icy but not quite, it’s even more luminous than that. It’s a flash of eucalyptus and mint with electric ozone and white amber. Quick as a flash the cold notes fade to leave an ozone-amber scent (with emphasis on the ozone), which unfortunately is a little too much like generic perfume for my tastes. I prefer Menacing Ionospheric Research Instrument, which is similar but has more complexity. Though this may be worth putting in a locket for that initial mind-clearing 'zap' that I get from the wet stage. Is it a keeper? no. If you like this, try: Pollution, 51, Alien Invasion, Ether, The Coil, Menacing Ionospheric Research Instrument, Parsifal

A Wonderful Light In the vial: sweet honey sharpened by orange. Wet on skin: tangy orange with a mellow honey note that smells of beeswax! Dry on skin: this isn’t just orange…this is an orange pomander! Studded with cloves, trimmed with a bow with a cinnamon stick, and hanging from a Christmas tree! Yes, I smell the spices and even a hint of pine here, and there’s a glow of beeswax candles here. This is fabulous! It reminds me of Hanerot Halalu, but even nicer, sweeter, less oily. I can’t smell the linden, vanilla or amber, but there is an underlying sweetness to it. But the dominant scent from this is warm beeswax and orange pomanders. After a while: the pomander stage was short lived, but that’s no bad thing because then the amber comes out. It mingles beautifully with the honey, the beeswax scent remains but I smell a separate rich gloopy honey-this is honey straight from the comb. It’s made even more golden by the amber, and the vanilla sweetens the scent even more. It’s a shame that I don’t smell any linden here, but I’m not complaining, the mix of honey, amber and vanilla in here blows O and Et Lux Fuit out of the water. Only after a few hours does the linden make its presence known, that delicate and elusive blossom gilded by honey and amber. It now smells like a mellow June afternoon. Verdict: a wonderful scent! This is what I wanted Et Lux Fuit to smell like! This is such a beautiful scent, really uplifting and full of hope and warmth, it truly glows. Starting with a festive pomander scent of spiced oranges and beeswax candles, it then morphs into the perfect blend of honey, vanilla and amber. I can’t stop sniffing it; it’s like sunshine and hugs in liquid form. The linden is shy and only comes out once the honey-amber-vanilla party has calmed a little, but it’s probably the prettiest linden BPAL I know of. I think I need to stock up on this one because it really is as fantastic as I hoped it would be. Is it a keeper? definitely-must order a bottle or two asap! If you like this, try: Lights of Men’s Lives, Hanerot Halalu, O, The Lion, Et Lux Fuit, L’Estate

In the imp: ohh, soft vanilla and bergamot and white musk. I have a feeling this scent will be a sister scent of Lyonesse. Wet on skin: so pretty…the bergamot in here is glorious, and it mixes perfectly with the musk and vanilla. Dry on skin: mmmm, this is the lovechild of Dorian and Lyonesse! Not at all savage or deathly, but very ladylike, and sophisticated. I smell a very polite caraway note-not as strong as Khrysopelex, but there’s enough to give the scent a spicy bite. The bergamot-vanilla-musk reminds me of Dorian or Theodosius, and also Prince Lir, but the jasmine makes it a little bit more feminine. After a while: now it ends up smelling like the Girl! I love the Girl, so this makes me happy-I now have something to replace it when I run out. I think it’s the combination of jasmine, sweet amber, musk and the hints of cool darkness in the background-something about the wormwood reminds me of the chilly and slightly aniseed-y birch note in The Girl. It still has that hint of Dorian to it, thanks to the earl grey scent of bergamot and the soft vanilla musk. The caraway adds a tiny hint of something fiery and gritty though…subtle, but enough to make this smell less ghostly and chilly than The Girl. Verdict: I love this! A pleasantly tangy bergamot tea and a fantastic jasmine note (a rare and wonderful thing when it comes to BPAL and my skin chemistry) mixes perfectly with a sublime base of white musk, amber and vanilla. The result is a scent that is womanly and refined with velvety sweet musky warmth, the sort of scent that gets me sniffing my wrist compulsively. There’s something strong and assured about it as well, but in an understated way (not as feisty as Heroine or Boadicea), maybe from the citrus and spice notes. This one’s a new favourite. Is it a keeper? yes! I will have to get a bottle once I’m done with my decant. If you like this, try: Dorian, Theodosius, Prince Lir, The Girl, Mastermind, Lyonesse, Gypsy

In Brightness and in Joy In the vial: syrupy fruit and florals and a touch of orange blossom. Wet on skin: red berry jam with orange blossom and other flowers. Dry on skin: not bad! The berries in here are very nice, but there’s the risk that they could become oversweet, as they remind me of the jammy yet unidentifiable red berry scent of Mason and Jenkin’s Port Jelly. The orange blossom contrasts the sweet berries with a surprisingly sharp scent, more like petitgrain than delicate orange blossom. Maybe the angel’s trumpet is sharpening it up? Sometimes that happens with white pungent floral notes. I can’t smell the rose, frankincense or sandalwood but I’m sure they’re in there. After a while: still sweet, maybe a bit too sweet, fruit jam, with a hint of Turkish Delight to it-I think that’s the rose. It seems to be turning into an orange blossom tinged rose petal and berry jam. Still no sign of the frankincense or sandalwood, but this is pretty. The scent doesn’t last long on me, and I never got the more incense-y scents from here, which is a shame. But the rose petal and berry jam drydown with a hint of orange blossom water is so nice. Not as sweet, and the orange blossom has lost its sharpness. Verdict: I do wish this scent were a little stronger and with more prominent rose and incense notes because it’s very evocative of the concept. The sweet berry and zingy orange blossom, once they settle down, evoke a feeling of joy-it's hard not to smile when you smell of Turkish delight...the berry has an almost jelly-like scent that along with a bit of rose, it smells like some kind of squishy pink confection. It’s really pleasant and uplifting, but perhaps a little too sweet, and ultimately it didn’t last long on my skin. Is it a keeper? unfortunately not but I enjoyed trying it. If you like this, try: Changing the Shadows, Mason and Jenkin’s Port Jelly, Dance of the Mirlitons, Seraglio

Yellow Snowballs In the imp: the familiar ‘snow note’ with added sugary citrus. Wet on skin: sugared grapefruit, sherbet lemons, and slushy pine-y snow. Dry on skin: now the grapefruit shows off its bitterness, no doubt powered up by yuzu, which in BPAL tends to smell grapefruitier than grapefruit. The lemon drops are as sweet and sharp as I expected, and I can smell a distinct lemon scent under the grapefruit. There’s a hint of soft, smooth vanilla cream. The pine-y snow note is still there but it’s actually not as dominant now, the citrus notes are strongest, a mix of pleasantly bitter and zesty calmed down by vanilla and sugar. After a while: sweet slushy snowy citrus. This reminds me of Snow Bunny or Hunger Moon but with a lot more fruit and sugar. It has the same lemon as Sticky Bat but it’s not as cloyingly sweet, the fresh snow scent seems to stop the whole scent from becoming too sugary. After that it turns a little weird. The grapefruit starts to smell a little bit fermented, and there seems to be this floral/ozone thing that possibly comes from the snow note. Where’s the vanilla and lemon? I was hoping for something like Knockout Drops in the drydown but the clash of the overripe grapefruit and the almost soapy snow note isn’t really my thing. The drydown ends up turning into a very soapy snow scent that reminds me of fabric conditioner with a bit of grapefruit peel. Verdict: I wanted to like this for the silly name and the hope that the yuzu would stay calm and this would smell of sweet grapefruit and lemon ice cream, but the yuzu’s not the problem here, it’s the snow note. It is a lot snowier than I expected-reminiscent of the snow in Snow Moon and many of the other winter scents, with its strong pine, cold air and chilled fruit scent. I detect a slight hint of citrus in those snow scents so it mixed very well with the grapefruit, yuzu and lemon here, but then an odd ozone component came out and spoiled the scent. I was hoping for more vanilla. Is it a keeper? probably not. If you like this, try: Knockout Drops, The Night Gaunt, Hunger Moon, Snow Bunny, Lemon Scented Sticky Bat

Cloth of Gold In the imp: a bright snowy scent that reminds me of Ice Queen or Snow Flakes. Wet on skin: a sharp floral note (crocus?) peeks through the sweet icy scent. Dry on skin: interesting. It smells like a sharper version of Ice Queen/Talvikuu/Cloister Graveyard/Moon of Ice on me. It has the same smooth icy musk and frozen evergreen scent I get from those scents, except this one seems to have a sharp, biting undertone. I can’t identify it but it is definitely floral, and oddly, my skin seems to turn this floral into a slightly popcorn-y scent. I don’t know what that’s about but I’m not keen on it. Maybe once the ice note ‘thaws’ a little I’ll be able to work out what that floral is. After a while: the snow note never really goes away, which is a good thing because the Ice Queen type scent I get from here is very nice. There’s still that weird popcorn thing to the scent, and I do smell a hint of crocus (and possibly saffron?) but the cool snowy musk scent is most obvious. Eventually the floral weirdness fades and the chilly evergreen base of the snow note is all that’s left. Verdict: I love the snowy note in this scent. It’s the exact same one as Ice Queen, with its cool iced musk and slight hint of juniper and spruce, and I was happy at first to smell this because I thought it would be a perfect replacement for it. But I’m not so keen on the floral note here because my skin does the strangest thing to it, making it smell sharp and a bit burnt and popcorn-y. It’s a shame because the snow note is fantastic. But I think I’ll make the most of Ice Queen instead. Is it a keeper? Not really. If you like this, try: Cloister Graveyard in the Snow, The Snow Maiden, Ice Queen, Talvikuu, All They Had Seen and All They Had Lost, Moon of Ice

Winter Heavens In the vial: cool musk and a fresh floral that reminds me of hibiscus. Wet on skin: ooh, there’s the papyrus, and a bit of fir. Dry on skin: surprisingly perfumey, but not in a bad way. There’s a bright, piercing note here that reminds me of posh perfume, probably a combination of musk, ozone, amber and champaca. The papyrus adds an intriguing touch-I agree, it does have an ‘Egyptian’ scent to it because it reminds me of the smell of papyrus paintings people have bought me when they went to Egypt. The champaca seems to be surging through the cool musk and dry papyrus, which is not good news because champaca tends to go bad on me, and I will be heartbroken if the champaca ruins this. The scent has lost that chilly fir and night air scent for the time being. After a while: champaca all the way! It seems to have devoured the notes that suggested frosty night air; instead it smells like warm, exotic, slightly spicy-floral incense. It seems on the verge of turning to something cloying, but though it’s a bit too much for me it’s actually not doing its worst here. Yet. If anything, this champaca smells more like a posh perfume than usual. I really like the papyrus here even though it’s only just detectable under the champaca. Eventually the scent seems to develop an unusual but pleasant resinous note, almost like myrrh or opoponax. Maybe that’s the amber, glimmering through the haze of champaca, and slowly but surely, the scent turns into incense-not nag champa, but something muskier and more regal-like Temple Viper, but a lot gentler. And then the papyrus paper scent makes a comeback. Then the scent turns into really good quality nag champa incense. This is totally different to what I expected from this scent, but I think I like it! Verdict: at first this disappointed me-I was expecting this scent to evoke one of my favourite things about winter-an utterly clear, cold night where the very air seems to have frozen still, and the sky glimmers with the most vivid, dazzling constellations. I was hoping the white musk, fir and chilly air notes would do that…but then the champaca smothered these notes like a thick fog through which the stars cannot shine. But eventually the scent morphed completely, into an exotic, beguiling incense scent. It makes me think of a nebula, thick clouds with stars shining through the cosmic murk. There’s a mysterious feel to this scent that makes me sniff my wrist repeatedly. It’s actually quite sexy in that subtle ‘come hither’ way, and wouldn’t be out of place in the Lupercalia line. A lot warmer and less frosty than I expected, once the champaca calms down this really becomes something special. Is it a keeper? I’ll give it another try because it’s growing on me. If you like this, try: Temple Viper, Khajuraho, Mr Ibis, Cytherea

Frost at Midnight In the vial: a floral pine scent that reminds me a bit of Halloween in Brooklyn. Wet on skin: very green pine sap made greener by ivy, with orange blossom. Dry on skin: interesting. Hopefully the tobacco won’t ruin this because there’s a lot of potential here. There’s a hint of icy coolness but it’s not as blatant as in most of the winter scents. The musk reminds me of a cross between Faunalia’s wild yet incense-y musk and the chilly Ice Queen musk. There’s not as much pine now, and orange blossom, immortelle and honeysuckle seem to have merged into a very subtle golden floral background, where no one floral stands out. There’s a tiny hint of sage but not much of the tobacco or oud. After a while: I think this may be the ivy’s fault as well but the pine here smells a little soapy or has a greenness that reminds me of some kind of cleaning product. It’s strange because terebinth usually turns to rich pine resin on me. But this stage is thankfully short lived, because then I get a really lovely scent-a frosty skin musk with a subtly smoky tobacco undertone, hints of sage and other green notes, and a similar immortelle note to the one that’s in that incredibly rare scent, Sheela Na Gig (though without the vanilla and ylang). I’m a little disappointed at the honeysuckle not being present though, and I can’t smell orange blossom either-but I’m also pleased that the tobacco hasn’t turned into cigarette smoke. The scent reminds me a bit of Faunalia, but not as sweet and without the really strong juniper, and instead there’s a lot of immortelle and I think this note is one that I am warming to. Verdict: this is really pretty! It really fits the name, evocative of glittering frost under the moonlight. The cool musk and pine evoke the frostiness very nicely without smelling like the usual snow and ice notes, but I think it’s the immortelle that makes this blend special. It’s not a very commonly found note but in here it really comes into its own, working very well with the musk, and there are hints of incense and herbs to it. This scent is very gender neutral despite the floral notes-which, other than immortelle, are barely detectable. I’m not sure it’s a favourite because there are some moments when it smells a bit soapy and I really hoped that the honeysuckle would show up but I can’t smell it at all. Even so, I really like this, especially after an hour on the skin. Is it a keeper? I think I’ll keep my tester and use it up. Maybe track down another decant. If you like this, try: Faunalia, Hunger Moon, Piper at the Gates of Dawn, Halloween: Brooklyn

The Most Magnificent Christmas Tree In the vial: yes, it does smell like a Christmas tree! Maybe a bit more resinous? Wet on skin: still smells like a Christmas tree, but with a hint of dark pine sap. Dry on skin: this smells just like a festive coniferous tree, but with more complexity. It’s not snowy but it evokes something a little wilder and outdoorsy than the usual smell of a Christmas tree. Maybe it’s the dark woods and gloopy sap that I smell, as well as crushed needles, that gives that impression. It reminds me mostly of Stranger in Camp, which has a wonderful pine forest scent to it with a lot of resin/sap, but in this the birch gives a very slight chilly backdrop, as opposed to the warm summer grass of SiC. I agree that there is sweetness to the scent but it’s not overly sugary-in fact it smells more like vanilla or amber. After a while: could there be some kind of musk in here? Or maybe it’s an effect of one of the wood notes…but this now smells like Christmas tree with a warm, sweet, velvety smooth base that reminds me of sandalwood or teak, or vanilla, maybe tonka. It’s gorgeous! It smells approachable and comforting, no longer chilly. There’s a hint of very subtle spice to it, maybe cardamom, and there’s a glow of amber too. But the scent of deep green pine needles is still dominant. The scent turns into sweet velvety woods with a hint of pine, woods with a soft yet deep vanilla musk scent. Verdict: this scent is so aptly named. It really smells like a Christmas tree…but better! Not only is there the unmistakable scent of pine needles and evergreen sap, triggering festive childhood memories, there’s the addition of a warm, sweet, vanilla-wood undertone with musk and resin elements to make this scent even more of a delight...evocative in the wet stage of the tree in its forest, before sweetening and mellowing into a cosy and velvety drydown that brings to mind a really sweet image in my head-a purring cat sleeping under a Christmas tree. It’s the fuzzy and musky (reminiscent of the mammal-themed musk scents) sweetness that makes me think of this. I think this is the best evergreen/pine scent Beth has made. Is it a keeper? yes and I want more! Maybe even a backup. If you like this, try: Stranger in Camp, Waltz of the Snowflakes, Black Forest, Golden Priapus, Woods in Winter 2011