yeahbutnobut

Pulcinella and Teresina In the imp: pickled wood! No, really. It's not bad though-smells like cedar and labdanum when I smell it again. Wet on skin: the woody notes come out even more now, as does the red rose. Dry on skin: what a fascinating scent. The impression I get is of polished wood. But the polish used is a fragrant, amber like resin, the labdanum. This smells like a wooden cedar box which is used to hold incense and resins, it's both a very exotic scent reminiscent of Middle Eastern or Indian amber-resin perfumes or loose incense, and also reminds me of church incense. Dark, alluring and intense. After a while: what does this remind me of? I can't think but this really does remind me of something I've smelt before. I'm pretty sure it was a type of loose incense, all sticky and resinous and aromatic, or the smell of a shop that sells trinkets from around the world, or maybe it was something I smelt in Morocco or Tunisia? Either way, this scent is amazing, very evocative, full of mystery…it's a woody labdanum scent but I swear I get things like frankincense, amber, myrrh, sandalwood and spices popping up here and there. I'm also reminded of Covent Garden, but that could simply be due to the Punch and Judy associations (I remember seeing the puppets there as a child) but maybe also because it reminds me of something from the incense stall there, or a perfume I smelt there once? The drydown after a few hours smells very much like a cross between an ancient cedar chest, church incense (it's very reminiscent of myrrh) and the darkest, deepest amber attar, with a scattering of dry rose petals. Verdict: imagine puppets made from the most fragrant woods, painted with vivid colours, and polished with a varnish made from aromatic resins. That is what I get here-a deep, rich, powerful and also very exotic fragrance. It's intense and mysterious and bewitching, filled with memories of times long gone and distant places. The woods are perfect-they don't smell too masculine, the rose is lovely but not too showy, and the labdanum is amazing-it smells like aged amber, viscous and dark, incredibly resinous with a feel of incense to it. This scent is again like nothing I've smelt from BPAL and another example of a CD scent that has wowed me. Another one to get in bottle form-I like what Zenvodunista suggested about layering this with Melisande, I think pairing the puppets with their mistress seems like a very good idea… Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Thanatos, Rose Cross, Magdalene, All Saints

Melisande, the Puppet Mistress In the imp: jasmine! Lots and lots of jasmine. Wet on skin: a sharp, greenish jasmine scent. This has the potential to go either way on me. Dry on skin: heady jasmine tempered by violet. Actually, the sharp, almost bitter scent may be due to mimosa, but it does remind me of the greener jasmine scents, like Ligeia and Yesod. There's a load of jasmine that packs a punch, with hints of bittersweet mimosa and powdery violet. I can't smell the musk but the vanilla does sweeten the scent up a great deal. After a while: whoa, this has softened up a great deal. No longer the sharp, bitter jasmine I got before, the mimosa has lost it's edge and has become the soft scent I'm more familiar with, and has teamed up with violet to smooth down the scent and to give it a delightful powdery aspect. The jasmine is now cocooned by these delicate flowers, and the vanilla still adds it's sweetness to the scent. No musk yet, but I think I can detect it's depth under the flowers, adding a rich and intense base to the soft powderiness. I really like this now. The jasmine here now reminds me of Luna or Twilight, but smoother...and the scent that wafts far from the skin is the most delightful vanilla-violet-sugar! This is like an even better version of Le Serpent Qui Danse. Verdict: this started out very heady and quite bitter and I thought 'oh no, this will be like Ligeia, a jasmine that didn't work on me'. Thankfully, this changes for the better. The mimosa and violet temper the jasmine, stopping it from becoming too aggressive, and adding a delicate touch of powder to the scent, whilst musk provides depth. The vanilla makes this even lovelier, especially concerning the throw, which reminds me of Le Serpent Qui Dance and Euphrosyne. The colour this evokes is a very pale twilight purple, a light pastel violet colour. This is another CD I will eventually have to get a bottle of, it's dusky and gorgeous and ever so feminine. Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Le Serpent qui Danse, Euphrosyne, Bearded Lady, Perfumed Garden

Three Brides In the bottle: a very soft, sweet amber-vanilla-sugared rose with orange/mandarin. Like the Haunted Palace without the musk. Beautiful. Wet on skin: a sweet, gorgeous mixture of vanilla, amber, benzoin, orchid, tonka, and a hint of rose. Dry on skin: now I can smell carnation, lily and a bit more rose! This is a beautiful, sublime scent-a mix of sweet notes of amber, tonka, vanilla etc, delicate flowers, a little sandalwood and a hint of tart, dry rose and mandarin. It's a very subtle scent at first but there's a lot of complexity here, it's well mixed though so everything works well together. It's also not heavy, it's light and sugared, but also luxurious, quite 'expensive' as a scent, but in the best way possible. After a while: eventually this smoothes out even more-the tart rose does back down a bit without leaving the scent, and the florals retreat, and the resinous, exotic, oriental notes come out to play. The scent becomes a delicious mix of amber, tonka, sandalwood and vanilla, with a little carnation, and the other notes just in the background. It is understated in the way that it teases with little wafts of scent as opposed to full on throw, but so beautiful. There's a feel of musk or labdanum at the base, not sure where that's from, but I like it…the scent seems to move slowly from amber to spiced sandalwood to floral vanilla every now and then, morphing gracefully. The drydown may be faint, but it is so delightful-golden Egyptian amber lingering on the skin. This is a lovely scent to get to know. Verdict: I'm very glad I purchased a bottle of this wonderful scent-it's another addition to my 'rose-based floral-resin-sweet-oriental' scents and it is so beautiful. It's not as intense as the Haunted Palace or Love in the Asylum, in fact, it's quite different to these and I can't really compare because the combination of notes here makes for a very unique fragrance. All the notes blend together so well and become one, changing slowly and softly, each facet of the scent showing itself for a while before letting another take it's place. I also love the amber base of this scent that really shows itself at the end. This scent is sometimes too subtle at times but when wearing this, I often caught a waft of this beautiful ambery scent and realised that it was the seemingly understated Three Brides! Sophisticated, feminine, exotic and sensual, this is a scent that really is a work of art and I bet it will age magnificently. Wow. Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Haunted Palace

F5 In the bottle: very similar to Embalming Fluid, a fresh citrus tea, but with salty sea spray. With it's salty lime, it smells almost like a margarita (not a mojito yet, as I don't get the mint). Wet on skin: it now smells like a fresh cologne type scent. Very upscale, very unisex. Dry on skin: not bad! This is, as the description says, refreshing. The dominant notes are an Embalming Fluid like citrus tea with white musk, but this time it's the sharper smell of lime instead of lemon. Whoo, that's a lot of lime and verbena-this is very citrus. And I still get the margarita feel. I do get an ozone background which is very slightly reminiscent of clean laundry, but in a good way. This does have a very mainstream perfume scent to it but I don't mind that. After a while: the 'clean laundry' scent does increase over time, but I like it in here. Overall, this scent is like a fresher, tangier version of Dirty…that same 'whiter than white linen' scent with an added citrus-tea zing to it, and less of the floral sweetness of Dirty. Thanks to the verbena-tea scent, it also reminds me of Shanghai. At the end, the aloe comes out, joining the tea, musk and sea air notes. Verdict: on me, this is like Embalming Fluid meets Dirty. The bright, sharp citrus tea and white musk of EF mixed with the laundered ozone of Dirty, this is a lively and zingy fragrance that does refresh! A tangy citrus tea with a hint of salty-lime margarita and a base of washed linen, this is a unisex fragrance which has something mainstream about it. It's a very energising scent, quite sporty in feel, and very clean. I like it-it's a great scent for warm weather, but I'm not sure if I'll keep it. I have other scents similar to it that I prefer. I may keep an imp's worth but I don't think I need the bottle. Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Embalming Fluid, Dirty, Berenice, Shanghai

The Organ Grinder In the imp: soft almond and a green, bitter nuttiness which must be the sarsaparilla-though. I've not smelt it before so that's just a guess. Wet on skin: a slight root beer-ish smell starts to surface along with the nutty scent, and I smell the tobacco smoke as well as the pine. Dry on skin: this is such an unusual scent! It's a strange mix of very nutty notes, a bit of green and evergreen, and earthy smoke. The sarsaparilla (I think) is like nothing I've encountered in BPAL, it's nutty but totally different to the almond, and also green and rooty, and almost savoury. The pine is there, adding it's sappy, deep green scent, and tobacco wafts over it all. The patchouli seems to pull everything together without being too obvious. After a while: the slightly toasted and very nutty scent still remains. It's a very odd scent on me-I'm not sure whether I like it or not. It's not as dark as before, it seems to have settled down but it's still unusual. After a while it develops a weird 'burnt butter' note-it's not blatantly buttery but it reminds me of that strangely nutty smell butter gets when it is overcooked. And then I get an undertone of slightly sour milk…which is funny, since the plant-based milk scents (almond, rice, coconut etc) hardly ever go sour on me. Verdict: this is the only CD scent I'm not so keen on. Something in here-probably the sarsaparilla-just turns very weird on my skin. It's one of the most unusual scents I've ever tried, I must say…with it's dirty, earthy, nutty and rooty scent. Hints of pine and tobacco flit through every now and then but it's the almond and sarsaparilla that reign supreme here (oddly, the almond doesn't smell soft and milky, but nutty and strangely savoury)-and it's such a unique scent. I've not encountered it in other BPALs so far. But it doesn't seem to work on my skin-something doesn't sit right with this scent, it doesn't seem to agree with my chemistry. So I'll let this decant go to a happier home. Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Voodoo, Baron Samedi

Doc Constantine In the imp: the sexiest leathery amber ever. Rich sweet amber (it smells like Jacob's Ladder amber!!) over black leather. This smells shaggable. Wet on skin: on the skin, the woodsy notes, like fir and cedar, appear out of the leather. now the scent does remind me of Geek. Dry on skin: mmm, I like this. Very much a sexy man scent, this is the smell of deep green forest notes of fir and smoky cedar which makes me think of a smouldering bonfire, with deep leather and a hint of golden sweet amber. I think I get a hint of fresh manly light musk too. This is a much more sophisticated version of Geek, it has none of the spiced wildness of that scent, and this is much more gentlemanly. After a while: there is something reminiscent of Jacob's Ladder to this, most probably the amber. It smells very golden and sticky, different to other black amber scents but also different to most golden amber notes as well-at times it almost reminds me of frankincense. The woods and leather work wonderfully with it, and I get a gorgeous incense like vibe from this scent at times, very much like Dee. Eventually, the amber becomes the most dominant scent, with hints of leather behind it. What a gorgeous amber scent it is too-though the disadvantage is that it's quite faint on me. But it's such a moreish scent! Verdict: I was hoping that the Doc would be too masculine on me, just so that my wallet wouldn't be hit too hard. But he's won me over completely with this scent. This is a stunning men's scent which can be pulled off wonderfully by women. On me, it is sexy Jacob's Ladder. That same wonderful resinous amber with a leather undertone, and hints of cedar and fir. The amber drydown is gorgeous and I want to bury my nose in whatever skin smells like this-be it my own, or any future boyfriend. There's one problem-it fades so fast on me. I'll give it a try again since I may not had applied much oil and that's why it's faint. But this is another CD that will need to be bought as a bottle. Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Loviatar, Jacob's Ladder, Dee, Bow and Crown

Mme Moriarty, Misfortune Teller In the bottle: mmm, fruity sweet red musk. It does remind me of what Smut smelt like in the bottle. Wet on skin: I see what others mean by the 'woody smoky' smell this has, which I'm getting now, as well as some fruit notes. Dry on skin: this is gorgeous. Oh yeah, this is good stuff. It's actually very different to the Snake Oil family, as there's a smoky scent to this, maybe it's the patchouli, which makes this very much a unisex scent-this would be just as sexy on a man as it is on me. There are, indeed, tobacco and cedar undertones to this. The red musk is different too, I think-different to Snake Oil or Smut's red musk, this reminds me of the RM in Great Cry in Egypt, actually. It's a woodsy musk, sweetened by plum and vanilla, deepened by patchouli, with a light touch of pomegranate. So good. After a while: this has such amazing throw, and the scent that wafts is that of the vanilla and plum, sweet and richly fruity. Close to the skin, the woody patchouli and musk is strongest. It smells like mystical, exotic incense mingled with the sweet smell lingering on Mme Moriarty's skin. This is a very intense scent-it just exudes confidence, to me. Over time, this does start to develop a Snake Charmer-esque plum-vanilla-musk scent which is sublime. It still keeps that gritty, earthy patchouli but it now smells sweeter and softer. Verdict: as I expected, Beth's own scent is really wonderful. It is definitely the Snake Charmer of CD, especially after an hour when the vanilla-plum-musk does become reminiscent of SC. But this is also very different to the Snake scents and Smut etc. There's an earthy, deep, smoky base to the scent-maybe the patchouli and musk, but it has nuances of cedar and tobacco to it. This gives the scent a lot of presence and oomph. It's full of confidence and strength. It's the scent of a powerful woman who doesn't take shit from anyone. Totally appropriate for Beth. It's also a dark scent, shrouded in mystery, and a scent that would suit men as well as women. This is a scent that has grown on me with a beautiful drydown, one I will want to stock up on. Another CD winner. Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Snake Charmer and Snake Oil (of course), Smut, Lust, Scherezade, Bathsheba

Chrysanthemum Moon In the bottle: hmm, interesting. It smells like a dried flower, quite a sour-ish one too. Possibly a dry chrysanthemum, with something herbal too. Wet on skin: interesting! It smells like fresh florist flowers, but with a hint of ginger…no musk yet but I think I get opium too. Dry on skin: what an intriguing fragrance. The dominant fragrance is that of the chrysanthemums, a greenish, slightly sharp, and also slightly dry scent, it's like a bouquet of dusty and dry flowers with fresh ones. The ginger spices it up nicely (and this red ginger seems to work on me-no burnt rubber!) and the opium adds it's hazy, dry, smoky ambience to the scent but doesn't dominate. I don't smell musk yet, but there is a scent to this that reminds me of bundles of dried herbs…the smell of old fashioned herbal remedies, with a little hint of soap, but it's not nasty soap. After a while: eventually the sharp, semi-herbal floral bouquet smoothes out a bit and becomes soft and almost creamy-probably due to the musk, and the spicy, fresh ginger aspect of the scent increases too. the scent is now exotic in feel, but also faded and nostalgic, like a memory from the past. It also has a lot of throw. There's something in here that smells like camomile and honey, oddly enough. The opium in here smells almost like it's been absorbed in cloth, there's a feel of fabric to this scent. There are times when the scent takes on a sourness which I'm not crazy about-sometimes it's quite nice, like honey, but at other times it's a little too sour for me. There's a very 'antique' feel to this scent on me. Verdict: this is a very interesting scent. It is like nothing else I've smelt from BPAL, another Lunacy which competes with HGM as the 'most unique BPAL out there'. It's a strange, almost contrasting mix of dry flowers and herbs and a bunch of fresh, sharp chrysanthemums with the scent of tent fabric which has absorbed opium smoke for a long time, a little bit of ginger, and a creamy musk undertone. The scent also has hints of honey, which is totally unexpected. It's a fascinating fragrance, but there are some parts of the scent I'm not sure about-there are times when it develops a sour note which I can't identify, but I'm not keen on it. there are also times when it, I'm afraid, reminds me of old fashioned pot pourri. I wish I'd got more musk from this scent. I'm torn on what to do with this-I don't like it enough to keep a whole bottle-maybe an imp-but the label is amazing! Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: there's nothing like this elsewhere in BPAL afaik...so unique!

Gennivre, L'Artiste du Diable In the imp: sharp lemony green tea with a hint of mint. Wet on skin: the bittersweet tang of orange blossom comes out and joins the lemongrass tea. The mint isn't that strong but I can feel it cooling my skin. Dry on skin: now I smell the honey, and the scent has sweetened nicely. This is such a lovely scent. it's predominantly tangy tea with just the right amount of lemongrass to add a citrus touch without taking over. Delicate orange blossoms float in the tea, with a little bit of cool mint, and delicious honeycomb. I can't smell the sugarcane yet but I think it may come out later to sweeten the scent even more. this is a light, fresh, nicely balanced scent of tart and sweet notes. After a while: the honey grows stronger over time. It's not the sweetest honey, it's actually a tart honey similar to O and Honey SN…but it's lovely. The sharper side of the honey works well with the tea note. The drydown after a few hours of wear is even lovelier-because now the sugar cane comes out! It adds a totally different sweetness along with honey, a lighter sweetness, very true to real sugar cane, and it's wonderful with the honey but despite these two sweeteners, this isn't 'cavity inducingly' sweet at all. And then the honey changes into the same honey note from Honey Moon! And I love that! Verdict: Beth, you are making me broke with CD, because I love this delightful light tea scent. Whilst this doesn't smell like Moroccan mint tea on me, this does smell like the most exotic green tea infusion ever! A delicious and refreshing tangy lemon green tea with orange blossom and honey and the subtlest mint. The honey note in here is nicely sharp, reminiscent of the honey SN and honeycomb, a pleasant addition to this light, bright tea fragrance. Then the sugarcane comes out and sweetens the scent even more, softening the tea's sharpeness, and rounds the scent out nicely. I need a bottle (or more) of this one as well-this also seems like a good scent for the warmer months but is perfectly wearable any time. this is one of my new favourite tea scents! (And at this rate, it seems like I will need an Al-a-ca-zam pack!) Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Dorian, Hungry Ghost Moon, Shanghai, Usher

Xanthe, the Weeping Clown In the imp: sweet, sugared guava. Gorgeously fruity. Wet on skin: now a little hint of orange and warm pepper start to come through the sugary guava. Dry on skin: this is delicious! Fruity and sugary but with a hint of spicy pepper. The apple blossom goes nicely with it all, adding it's lightly floral yet slightly dry and in here, almost 'tea like' feel. The orange is faint but I can just make out it's tang, but the dominant notes are the sugar and the guava, making for a juicy, sweet fragrance. After a while: eventually the fruit notes become less sweet, and add a tart edge to the scent, balancing out the sugar…probably an effect of both sugar and guava. Whilst very sweet, the tangy scent this has makes sure the sugar doesn't make my teeth ache. It's a refreshing sweetness, and a lot gentler. This is delightful…it's like boiled fruity sweets or lollipops, and candy floss. It reminds me of the sugar note in Midnight on the Midway. The scent doesn't seem to last long, it does fade after a few hours but the scent that does remain is the most delightful spun sugar. It's definitely a pink sugar scent (but doesn't smell like the actual Pink Sugar fragrance). Verdict: thank goodness I'm not scared of clowns, because this is yet another CD fragrance I love. A gorgeous sugary fruit scent with just the right amount of fruity sharpness to stop it becoming too saccharine. This smells like I've gently dusted my wrist with powdered candy floss sugar, and also smells like fruity lollipops. A very fun and light hearted scent in all, but the pepper adds a nice warmth, adds an interesting twist to a scent that would otherwise be pure candy. It doesn't overwhelm either, and has a nice fresh feel to it that makes this an ideal blend for summer. Another one to get a bottle of! Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Fruit Moon, Midway

The Candy Butcher In the imp: oh my. This smells like deep, rich, cocoa laden hot chocolate! Less sweet than other choc scents, this is delicious. Wet on skin: mmm, something sweeter, softer, and yes, Snow White like, comes up to greet the chocolate! Dry on skin: whoever said this smells like chocolate Snow White is spot on! This is SW's delicious creamy marshmallow note with dark chocolate. In fact, this smells just like the deepest, richest hot chocolate with sweet fluffy marshmallows melting in it! This is truly magnificent-there's nothing sour or plastic here, just chocolate marshmallows. Mmm… After a while: still smells like cocoa-dusted Snow White, that cool, creamy, sweet marshmallow contrasting with the bitter, dusty chocolate. I even get a hint of a light musk to it, similar to SW's 'lily musk', and a hint of white, sweet flowers. The milky feel of the scent gets stronger over time but never, ever, ever turns sour. That's how I like my cream. Verdict: I've been looking for the holy grail of 'pure chocolate' scents, and this is it. Bliss was too bland, Lump of Coal was ok, though Velvet was quite nice. Other brands of 'chocolate single notes' disappointed, but this is truly wonderful. Take the darkest, thickest, most cocoa-rich hot chocolate ever, and then add loads of marshmallows. This is what Candy Butcher is like on me. Chocolate marshmallows-and not just any marshmallows but Snow White marshmallows, with even a hint of white musk-a surprisingly complex scent for one where I expected just creamed chocolate. The treats offered by the Candy Butcher may look like plain chocolate at first but they have the most delicious fillings…I think I will have to give in to getting a bottle. Another CD hit. These scents will make me broke, I tell thee! I must also add that CB lasts for AGES on my skin. I could still smell it going strong the next morning! Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Bliss, Lump of Coal, Snow White

The Phantom Calliope In the imp: spiced almond like cherry, heavy on the cardamom, which is a good thing. Wet on skin: spicy cherry! Dry on skin: wow, the cardamom in this scent kicks ass! It's so strong, so gorgeous, so warm and delicious, and it's wonderful with the cherry note which has lost it's almond like edge and now smells like sour black cherry sauce, which is lovely. I think the patchouli deepens it too. It's like spicy cherry-I think cassis (blackcurrant) may be what's adding even more tangy fruitiness to the scent, and I smell the lemony verbena here and there. After a while: the verbena has faded, and what I get is a fruity version of Alone. It has that same patchouli-cardamom scent to it, but less earthy and with the addition of warm cherry and cassis (I'm sure it's cassis, not cassia, since I don't get cinnamon on my skin, just full on yummy cardamom.) The scent is lovely but it doesn't seem to smell very strong on my skin, which is surprising for something with a patchouli base. This lightness the scent has does add to the 'ghostly' feel the scent conveys. It does fade to a lingering cardamom note-barely there, but what's left is very pleasant. Verdict: another lovely CD scent, but this one's a lot more subtle on me. It's a fruity cherry-currant with a huge hit of wonderful warm cardamom and a touch of patchouli, a delicious, warm, slightly autumnal scent. The only disappointment? It's not strong enough on me. It's very similar to Alone but not as complex, and it goes faint quite quickly. I might get a bottle just for that amazing cardamom note though…it's worth it just for that, and I think this may strengthen with age. Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Red Phoenix, Alone

Midnight on the Midway In the imp: a very pretty sugared floral. Wet on skin: nag champa! I totally agree with other reviews because this smells like sugary nag champa now! Dry on skin: mmm, this is gorgeous. This is nag champa incense (or champaca flower?), enhanced by the addition of sugar and more floral notes…and it actually reminds me very slightly of either Midnight (how appropriate) or the Evening Star! There may be some moonflower in here, and also a hint of iris, or poppy or tuberose, since it also reminds me of Stardust at times. Maybe a tiny amount of jasmine? These are true night bloomers, dewy and luminous, with an ethereal perfume, but with a wonderful sugary scent floating over the top, reminiscent of the pink fluff of candy floss (I don't get fried donuts here like I did with Midway). After a while: this stays pretty constant, but the sugar note gets stronger, it's sweet pinkness softening the nag champa and pale floral notes. It reminds me of Midway, but more like actual sugar, and less like fried sugary dough. This is a lovely scent, and I love the hippie scent of the nag champa in here! After many hours, I start to get a note which smells like night air! And I love the smell of night air. Slightly ozoney but not soapy like most stormy ozones. This is like summer night air, warm and humid but, to me, reminiscent of being on holiday, for some reason. Verdict: this is indeed the nocturnal counterpart to Midway, and fits the description perfectly. This smells like night blooming flowers (I think there's moonflower, champaca, iris, one of the notes from Evening Star/Stardust, maybe just a hint of jasmine or tuberose), candy floss like sugar, and an incense note which smells just like nag champa, with it's hippie-ish vibe. It's a delicious combination of notes, it really does evoke the fair at night, the smell of lightly cooked sugar wafting on the breeze along with the perfumes of moist flowers on a sultry summer night. It's a beautiful, evocative fragrance and the floral notes aren't overwhelming. As well as being the opposite of Midway, it also seems like a good companion scent to the Carnaval Diabolique scent-they seem like two sides of the same coin, sharing a similar feel, but through different scents. Another one to get a bottle or two of! Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Midway, Carnaval Diabolique, Midnight, Evening Star

Carnaval Diabolique Straight from the twisted alleys of Dis, by way of the City of Angels: opium smoke, lemon flower, heliotrope, tuberose, black musk, vanilla, coconut, apricot flower. In the imp: lemon! A very pleasant lemon but with something darker underneath. Wet on skin: mmm, lemon! This is lovely-it's not like lemon cleaner, but like lemon sherbet! It also reminds me of TAL Milk and Honey. Dry on skin: oh, I really like this. I was expecting the smell of the blossom of the lemon tree (which smells similar to orange blossom) but I get a gorgeous, almost herbal lemon that to me smells like lemon balm! A smooth, slightly herbal, slightly creamy lemon, with a hint of coconut adding even more of a creamy softness. It reminds me of lemon curd! I can't smell the other components-the musk, vanilla, flowers, but I just love the creamy sweet lemon vibe I'm getting and…I think I can smell a little bit of opium filtering through the sunny lemon scent. After a while: this sweetens and the lemon moves back gradually. The throw this has is quite amazing. It now smells like a creamy vanilla-coconut resting on a smoky opium musk with hints of the lemon still lingering. I don't smell tuberose or apricot but I think the heliotrope and vanilla have bonded to make that lovely sweetness. It's gorgeous and another opium scent that smells wonderful on me. There are times when the coconut smells like those toasted coconut sweets or coconut ice, which is appropriate since that's a common fairground treat round these parts. In fact, I do get a feel of funfair food from here, different from Midway, but definitely foody and light, but with that opium musk darkening it all. Verdict: this is a fantastic introductory/overall scent summing up the CD experience. It starts off bright and zingy, a soft creamy lemon note reminiscent of sherbet inviting you in. then, gradually, the scent starts to transform into a delicious mixture of sweet vanilla, toasted coconut, with hints of florals, all dimmed by the opium smoke and a creamy yet dark musk note. This smells like the sweets and treats you might get at the fair-coconut ice and hints of other sugared treats, some with a lemony flavour, but with that dry, deep, rich opium surrounding it all, and the musk adding a smooth base to the scent. It really is the fun, sweet smell of the carnival turned evil! And I love it. I now need a bottle or two! Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Polyhymnia, Red Lantern

Ulalume In the imp: fruity sweet floral lilies glistening with dew and damp night air! So beautiful! Wet on skin: oh, this is pretty, I get a lovely airy aquatic mingled with sweet lilies and damp woods and leaves. Dry on skin: this is surprisingly beautiful. This really does smell like what the description says-sweet lilies (almost like flower nectar at times), dark woods which are there but don't take over, an aquatic note which brings to mind cool mist and dew, and wet autumn leaves. This is very mysterious and melancholy-and the aquatic note isn't turning to soap! I also smell soil and air in here, which just adds to the ambience. It reminds me of something I've smelt before-maybe CB's Winter of 1972? It has a similar 'misty starry night with a hint of soil' scent to it but with a stronger floral note. After a while: eventually I get a darker, almost burnt wood note at the very back of the scent, ad the floral note is slightly sweeter but also lighter, more ethereal, mingling with the misty aquatic. Still no soap, which is a very good thing. Eventually this fades to a sweet, crisp, light, ethereal floral note resting on a gentle woody base. So pretty. It reminds me very slightly of something else-Dunwich maybe? It's got that dry wood and watery lily scent to it. It develops a pleasantly papery, wispy feel at the end. Verdict: this is such a lovely scent, and a great relief to see that it works with me when I've been having a run of aquatic failures. This is the scent of a chilly autumn night after the rain, the air is cool and clear and also misty/foggy, but there are lilies, white and sweet and bewitching, and fragile. The aquatic note in here works wonderfully-it brings to mind damp and cold night air, and the woody notes add a lovely dark background along with the autumn leaves, and the moist lilies are just gorgeous. A very evocative, atmospheric scent which smells true on my skin and doesn't turn to soap at all. It's not a favourite but definitely worth keeping the imp. (btw I get no wintergreen at all. I have an old imp-with the old logo. Maybe recent batches of Ulalume are suffering from Hamadryad-style wintergreenitis?) Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Midnight, Nuit, Dunwich

I hope this post doesn't sound grouchy, as the it's that time again, rampant hormones control my brain, and my cramps feel like someone has placed a concrete slab in my tummy, and this slab is swelling. Ugh. My maths resit is over, thank goodness...I now have about three weeks and a bit before uni starts. A part of me wants to start uni asap (one reason being STUDENT LOANS! MORE WONGA TO SPLASH ON SMELLIES!! ) another part of me wants to relish in the delicious, lazy, no-coursework, no-study days, the days of staying at home away from those awful flatmates I had last year...ah, bliss. Seems like I've been getting a taste of autumn as September arrives. Makes me wonder...am I, and my mother and RL friends, the only ones who like warm summery sunshine? Ok, so I don't mind wind and rain-provided I'm not out in it. I'm one of those people who tolerates heat much better than cold. It does make me feel less guilty to be inside, I must say. Perfect 'curl up with a cuppa and a kitty by the TV' weather. Perfect 'lazy weather', the time for lie-ins, especially now the nights are drawing in. I suppose the rainy, gusty days have a bright side when I think of it in those ways. Plus, rain is seriously needed after the desert-like conditions of summer we've had. However, I do like the autumn. I like those balmy September days that are warm and sunny but not unbearable like summer days are, just pleasant enough to go out with a t-shirt and enjoy the few days before the cold kicks in. I also love the dry autumn days, especially at sunset when the colours of the sky and the leaves match-and the nights. Oh, those cold, crisp, clear, smoky-scented autumn nights, always with the crackle of fireworks in the air in this country. Not as bitter as winter but those nights give a hint of the winter to come. I remember such a night last year, it was out at the observatory where I study, and the night was magical...cool, but not too cold, and with the most magnificent full moon illuminating the countryside all around (and yes, at the time, I was wearing Hunter Moon. It's a sign of true addiction, remembering what BPAL you wore on a random day a long time ago...). Not ideal for astronomical observations of course but just so beautiful. It's also the perfect time to crack open the autumnal BPALs-tonight, it's Devil's Night, which seems to have aged fantastically, with the smoky note much more pronounced, like a fragrant bonfire wafting over airy fresh musk...so beautiful. Hopefully the new DN will be the same...I need more!

Chaos Theory III: CCLXXXV From a decant swap with Deana In the imp: spicy perfume-this reminds me of an expensive but well crafted oriental perfume with a hint of cloves and incense. Wet on skin: still spicy perfume-this smells a lot more perfumey than most BPALs. Dry on skin: now a hint of something floral-fruity pops out. This is very well crafted-I am reminded of one of my mum's perfumes. I'm at a loss to say what's in here other than flowers, fruits, spices and woods-I think I smell rosewood here, with something that may be orange, maybe some tonka…and then I start to recognise the scent. It now smells a little bit like that Aztec god oil that begins with X, and it reminds me of Angel! Yes! This smells like a cross between Angel, Xiuhlwotsit (let's just call him Mr X for now), and one of my mum's posh musk cologne scents and possibly a hint of clove or a spice note of some kind. This scent just exudes sophistication and class… After a while: the scent softens and sweetens-there's a tonka or vanilla note adding a pleasant sweetness, but there's also that 'perfumey sharpness' peaking up through the scent. I also get a tropical floral note-maybe plumeria, since this reminds me of Mr X-I don't think there's the copal from that scent though, but there may be orange/orange blossom here. At times I wonder if there may be black amber in here as I get a dark, amber like sweetness which reminds me of other black amber scents, but is different from the lighter, golden amber notes. Eventually this dries to a perfumed, spicy wood scent, either sandalwood or rosewood with that sharp perfume over the top and a sweet undertone. I think I get some light musk here now. Verdict: when I wear this, it reminds me of being a kid and spritzing myself with my mum's perfumes for fun, pretending that I am older. Probably the most 'posh designer perfume' BPAL I've smelt, this smells very much like mum's perfume collection…it reminds me of Angel but less gourmand, with some more oriental notes in it, spices and woods. This, to me, is the feminine counterpart to the 'Chaos Theory Pour Homme' bottle I got, I'm sure they share that same, distinctive 'perfumey' note-I can't say what it is though. It's a very sophisticated, classy fragrance, mature, chic and smart, I'm not sure if it's a favourite since it does remind me too much of my mum's perfume, but I like it. I'll keep it around for now. Emoticon rating: Previously reviewed by edenssixthday.

Belle Epoque “The Pretty Era”, France’s Golden Time: an age of beauty, innovation and peace in France that lasted from the 19th Century through the first World War and gave birth to the cabaret, the cancan, and the cinema as well as the Impressionist and Art Nouveau movements. Sweet opium, Lily of the Valley, vanilla, mandarin and red sandalwood. In the imp: mandarin and lily of the valley. A combination of citrus and white, soft floral. Wet on skin: so pretty! Lily and mandarin with a hint of dry, dark opium wafting underneath. Dry on skin: lily of the valley and opium! This is a very pleasant scent. The mandarin adds a little bit of sharpness to this lily of the valley dominated scent, and I like the way the opium deepens and adds it's smoky touch to the scent without overwhelming-I think the sandalwood adds that incense like feel to it even more. I can't smell vanilla yet but I think it will come out and sweeten this scent even more. After a while: eventually this scent fades into pretty much all lily of the valley, with just hints of sandalwood, opium and vanilla. It's very faint now. the flowery scent is very pretty but I wish it had more throw and that the other notes were stronger…the lily also does almost veer into soap territory, but thankfully doesn't become totally soapy. Eventually the vanilla bonds nicely with the lily and makes it very nicely sweet. But it's still too faint for me. Verdict: this is a lovely scent but I wish it was a bit stronger. It's a pretty, feminine, romantic and graceful lily of the valley scent supported by a gentle waft of opium and sandalwood and sweetened slightly by vanilla. It's such a light scent and I like the way the opium isn't too heady like it can be. The only problem with this scent is that it's very faint on my skin, and also, despite it's notes, doesn't seem to have much depth on me-it seems to evaporate fast and doesn't stick to me very much, surprising for a scent with opium and sandalwood. It's nice but I think I'll swap it. Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Come To Me, Languor

Pain In the imp: minty lavender. I know it's the pennyroyal causing the mint effect but it smells more like peppermint in here than the greener pennyroyal scent I've encountered. Wet on skin: fresh, cool, piercing minty lavender. Dry on skin: whoa. Screaming miiiiiiinty lavender, with a touch of green herbs. This is very fresh, almost medicinal in scent, but on me there's a hint of something grey and even metallic about it. It's not as pleasant as the lavender-pennyroyal in Mad Hatter. This is icy, without feeling, calculating and emotionless. Very cold indeed…and ever so intense. After a while: lavender and pennyroyal are very short-lived notes on me so I was expecting them to disappear altogether. But, though they fade considerably (pennyroyal vanishes completely) the lavender seems to stick around, lingering on the skin in a faint, soft, powdery, pale scent which actually reminds me of Waving not Drowning…and it also smells like violet, which is odd. But I do like it, and I like it better than the initial wet stage. The scent disappears completely within two hours. Verdict: at first, this was a cold, cruel, biting mint-lavender. Not a comforting one, this was grey, grim, metallic, very piercing. It was cold, like a bitter winter wind. Not painful though. This scent smells more numb than Numb, ironically. The drydown, despite it's faintness, is a lot nicer, a soft lavender with a hint of violet (?) to it, a lot calmer than before. But due to it's lack of 'grounding' notes, the scent does disappear in a nanosecond-I mean, a couple of hours. One for swaps. I have other mint scents I prefer. Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Mad Hatter, Numb

Does Morocco have vanilla? It's not mentioned in the notes but a lot of people describe it as a vanilla scent. I always thought Morocco's sweetness was due to the musk, but maybe there is vanilla in it too? When I first tried it I didn't understand the hype, my imp was woody and masculine. Then I tried another imp and was smitten! My new bottle that I have is creamy-sweet and so divine!

I can't believe no one's mentioned the sublime Queen of Sheba yet. It's like almonds drenched in crystallised honey with exotic spices all around-a golden, luxurious scent.

I just knew it would happen but Beth has outdone herself yet again. How does she do it? I'm amazed and flabberghasted. It looks like the updates are going to become even more devastating (financially, that is) over these next few months... So, what do I think of Halloween 06? There are some that really call to me, but luckily most of them are only decant-worthy for now. My bank account is safe for now-at least until Kindly Moon... Bought: ALL SOULS -- An incense blend that invokes the higher qualities of mercy and compassion, mingled with the soft, sugared currant scent of offertory soul cakes. As soon as I saw 'sugared currant' and 'cake' I immediately thought of Eat Me, which I adore. And it has incense, which I also adore. Bought a bottle. SHOGGOTH -- white amber, green coconut meat, iris, palmarosa, Chinese peony, lime, water lily, snowdrop, muguet, lemongrass, osmanthus, wisteria, glassy musk, and hinoki. White amber? I've not seen that in BPAL. I have no idea how it smells (lighter and softer than other ambers?) and I love the coconut meat note in Obatala (better than just plain coconut), so green coconut really intrigues. And it's good to see waterlily in a scent-there are too few waterlily scents. This scent description seems to bring to mind the words 'iridescent pastel technicolour', a mix of white and pale-coloured notes. Will definitely get when I have money/next update: PUMPKIN QUEEN -- The Glorious Grand Dame of the Pumpkin Patch! Regal Egyptian Amber, red ginger, orange peel, mandarin, cardamom, fig leaf and warm pumpkin. This is where the two consciences in my head argue. The little devil says 'get a bottle! it has Egyptian amber and cardamom, and I know how much you loooooove those notes, and you know it's going to be lovely with pumpkin! BUY IT NOW.' but the little angel says 'not so fast! Your skin turns red ginger-or at least the one in the SN-to rubbery asphalt! and that's not a good smell! You have a decant on the way, and if you like it, only THEN you can get bottle(s)!' but then the devil beats the crap out of the angel with a pitchfork... THE BRIDES OF DRACULA -- gleaming skin musk, honey and white amber, plum blossom, osmanthus, sandalwood, calla lily, and a light, sensual blend of Eastern spices. More white amber-now I'm very curious about this. All the other notes-skin musk, honey, sandalwood, osmanthus and Eastern spices look gorgeous too. Especially Eastern spices-this seems like a softer, floral equivalent to Snake Charmer? It's the plum blossom that may go odd on me but it didn't in Peony Moon and there are loads of winning notes here. Will grab bottle! COUNT DRACULA -- black patchouli, neroli, tonka, cinnamon, bitter clove, leather, black musk, coffin wood and fiery ginger. This really does seem like bottled sex. Cinnamon, clove, and ginger? Yum. Leather, patchouli, rich black musk and delicious tonka? I'm there. And it's Dracula...how can I ignore a Dracula scent-and such a sexy one at that? Now I need a man to rub these oils all over... LUCY WESTENRA -- A wanton beauty, corrupt, hypnotic, seductive, and feral: magnolia, iris, Moroccan rose, frankincense, crushed jasmine blossom, blood orange, tobacco flower and white musk. This to me looks like one of those fantastic, complex, rich, resinous and heady rose-based floral scents which I love so much-it does seem to remind me of some favourites of mine, the likes of the Haunted Palace and LitA, the resin-rose scents like Rose Cross and Magdalene, and also Three Brides which I am coveting fiercely. And I want to collect all those wonderful rich musky/resinous rosyscents so I need a bottle of luscious Lucy asap! MISKATONIC UNIVERSITY -- The scent of Irish coffee, dusty tomes and polished oakwood halls. So glad to see it as a GC. Coffee and old books and Baileys. I love it. I don't need a bottle urgently though but this is my favourite BPAL coffee scent so far. Decants and imps: THE HIGH PRIEST NOT TO BE DESCRIBED -- Monastic incense, blood musk, black leather, cypress, pimento, white pepper, and Roman chamomile. Ohh, this looks intriguing. Incense, blood musk and leather are all favourites but this scent may be a little masculine. Worth an imp, for now. THE MUSIC OF ERICH ZAHN -- A ghoulish and tortured scent, suffused with the blackness of space illimitable: ajowan, vetiver, black musk, opoponax, mimosa, and tamarind. I have no idea what ajowan smells like but apparently it's cuminy/caraway-ish which seems interesting, and vetiver is either nice or too much, and I'm not keen on tamarind (hate drinking tamarind juice) but I'm still interested in trying this, just for the opoponax and black musk. NIGHT-GAUNT -- something akin to yuzu, white grapefruit, and kumquat mixed with the snow-dusted flowers of Mount Ngranek. Mmm, sharp citrus! this sounds like a kind of Aizen-Myoo type scent which might be fresh, tangy and light. A tangy, pretty floral with a load of citrus. This will be one for next spring, I think. Y'HA-NTHLEI -- A swirling, lightless, effervescent scent: the deepest marine notes with bergamot, eucalyptus and foamy ambergris. Hmm. suddenly my skin has become quite the aquatic-hater (turns them to soap) but not all of them. This looks very unusual-eucalyptus and ambergris? I have no idea what this will be like-very piercingly cold and nose-decongesting, probably. ALL SAINTS 2006 -- Based on a venerable French pontifical incense blend: monastic frankincense and myrrh, Damascus rose, Russian gardenia, cassia, and lily of the valley wafting on a chill Autumn wind. Love the 05 version, may consider getting the 06 just to see how different it is. CREEPY -- This season’s Ridiculous Scent! As creepy as Spooky was spooky, this is the scent of butterscotch-kissed, caramel-smothered red apples spiked with a blast of coconut rum. Mmmm, this looks yummy. Toffee apples and coconut rum? I still want to try a decant since some rum scents can be a little dusty or a little too boozy on me. I want a toffee apple scent that works on me... DEVIL’S NIGHT 2006 -This is the scent of autumn night, fires in the distance, with a touch of boozy swoon, playful sugar and thuggish musk. Love DN 05, may want to see how different this year's version may be-and to have another bottle of DN! To me, it's my Guy Fawkes firework watching scent, so evocative of dry autumn night air and gingery musk. DIA DE LOS MUERTOS 2006 -- dry, crackling leaves, the incense smoke of altars honoring Death and the Dead, funeral bouquets, the candies, chocolates, foods and tobacco of the ofrenda, amaranth, sweet cactus blossom and desert cereus. Hmm, it seems the Dia scents do vary wildly from year to year but since I liked 05 I might get a bottle of 06, maybe this one won't be overtly floral? The 05 version was rather too heady at times, but very pretty. PUNKIE NIGHT -- apple orchards, bright cranberries, and a touch of warm cider. This looks very apple-y indeed with the orchard and cider notes. decant. Sometimes apples can be nice but sometimes they can be too sharp on me. But orchards sound lovely-this may be a very natural apple scent. SAMHAIN 2006 -- Truly the scent of autumn itself -- damp woods, fir needle, and black patchouli with the gentlest touches of warm pumpkin, clove, nutmeg, allspice, sweet red apple and mullein. Worth trying to see if it's different/the same and for another vintage bottle of this iconic LE. And it smells gooood. SAMHAINOPHOBIA -- The fear of Halloween. Menacing Haitian vetiver, patchouli, and clove with a shock of bourbon geranium, grim oakmoss, and dread-inspiring balsams pierce the innocuous scent of autumn leaves. Vetiver...now that's either too much for me or just bearable. I dunno but Haitian vetiver, I think, is the strong stuff. I'm reminded of Baron Samedi's vetiver which overwhelmed the scent. But it's got bourbon geranium, which I love! And clove! And autumn leaves! I'll try a decant. SUGAR SKULL 2006 -- Vibrant with the joy and sweetness of life in death! A blend of five sugars, lightly dusted with candied fruits. Ditto with the other '06' scents-I don't know if I need more SS but I'll try a decant and see if it's the same or different. My 05 has turned to deep, boozy, rummy sugar, but sometimes it's a bit too much to handle. THE BLOODY SWORD -- dragon’s blood, myrrh, black pepper, labdanum, benzoin, leather, fire, and steel. Steel in perfume? and fire? This I must smell. How it will do on my skin I don't know but it has some lovely resin action going on as well-love myrrh, pepper, labdanum and benzoin, and leather usually smells good on me. It may be verging towards the masculine though. CARFAX ABBEY -- The scent of abandoned places, of desolation and emptiness: heavy woods and thin dusty herbs touched by the wafting incense of a nearby chapel. Looks very gloomy and grim but this might be really nice-decant. I have no idea what this will be like apart from dismal and dusty and maybe quite lonely-it may be nicely evocative though. THE CARPATHIAN MOUNTAINS -- Mountain air and the scent of crisp snow blanketing the mountain’s flora: Scottish fir, beech, cembra and mugho pine, rhododendron, currant, honeysuckle, raspberry leaf, dwarf juniper, sedge, meadow grass, snowdrop, rose bay, lily of the valley, starwort, lichen and mosses. This looks quite stunning, I must say. A complex mountain forest scent? If the snow is like Skadi...mmm. I have no idea what cembra, sedge, snowdrop, rose bay (is it like rose, or bay?) or starwort smell like but I do like fir, woods, pine, currant and if the honeysuckle is that new honeysuckle note like in Litha and BatWoman, then this looks very promising. THE CASTLE -- A distant whisper of pine, wet moss and dry leaves passing through vast halls and winding dungeons whose scent bears the memory of blood, faded splendor, imperial elegance and stunning violence. This looks intriguing enough to warrant a decant, though it does seem very gloomy (rightly so, though) but it might be really atmospheric. There's also a degree of mystery and vagueness after the moss and pine-the smell of dungeons? Interesting. JOHNATHAN HARKER -- A respectable gentleman’s scent: lavender, iris, white tea, verbena and white sandalwood. Hmmm, I'm reminded of Usher and Villain when I see this-could be really nice but also too cologne-like, or too manly? I'll try a decant. QUINCEY MORRIS -- Rough on the edges, but possessing the true essence of valor and nobility of spirit: tobacco, vanilla, white pear, cedar, rugged musk and saddle leather. Mmm, this looks very nice-it seems to be Tombstone/Dead Man's Hand-esque. I might want to try a decant since Tombstone's vanilla did go crazy on my skin. I hope the 'saddle leather' isn't too rawhide-like though. How the pear will fit in intrigues me... WILHELMINA MURRAY -- Tea rose, white sandalwood and a flurry of pale, virginal blossoms, smeared with a smoky, blood-soiled blend of myrrh, hyacinth, Daemonorops resin, dark musk and blackcurrant. Another interesting scent, but aren't they all? A dark floral…I love rose, myrrh, hyacinth, sandalwood, not sure about Daemonorops (dragon's blood apparently?). Decant first. R.M. RENFIELD -- Unhinged: moss, cumin, patchouli, Balsam of Peru, and neroli. Looks reminiscent of Dracul. I do like most of the notes but I want to get a decant first. I'd love to know what Balsam of Peru is like-is it that note that turned to lovely amber in Dracul? Mmm... DR. JOHN SEWARD -- poppy smoke, champaca flower, tonka, sandalwood, ginger, white pepper. Poppy/opium can be nice or nasty. But all the other notes look so tempting. Champaca, sandalwood, ginger and yummy tonka? One to try a decant of for sure. Don't need: AL AZIF --A sinister, sinuous incense of summoning, a herald and paean to the Primordial Gods of Darkness, Chaos, Madness and Decay. I adore this scent and I'm so glad it's now GC! But I have a bottle so I don't need more for now, ARKHAM -- A shadowy, unapproachable forest of maple, birch, dogwood, cypress and pine softened by a garland of New England wildflowers: bergamot, columbine, rue anemone, blue violet, creeping phlox, bloodroot, toadflax, and pixie moss. Not so keen on this-something in it went too sweet, and something else made it smell like some old designer moisturising cream my mum used to wear. Something in it screams 'department store body lotion' and the phlox is over-sweet. AZATHOTH -- tangerine, saffron, vetiver, black amber and cedarwood. Way too masculine for me. Scaaaaary vetiver. CTHULHU -- A creeping, wet, slithering scent, dripping with seaweed, oceanic plants and dark, unfathomable waters. Ditto Azathoth. Yes, this has scaaaaaary vetiver as well. PUMPKIN PATCH REVISITED Don't really need more PP-I only liked the apple cider one enough to keep and I have a bottle of that, which is enough for now. ~~~~~~~ Ok, that's done and dusted. I now can't wait for Kindly Moon (I imagine that will be a tiny update of just the moon, like CM was). And then the BPTP updates...I swear that Puddin' hinted at incense going live (a little mention of 'stuff you can set on fire') and if that's the case, I really hope this incense ain't LE, since I have been looking forward to BPAL incense since it was mentioned last year and I want to buy it all! I have a feeling the next Wallet Armageddon big update to look forward to, BPAL wise, is on October 13th. I predict that the CD Thirteen in One freak show scents will go live, along with 13, and...Yules!!! Since the Yule scents went up in mid-October last year, so it seems reasonable. And if this Halloween update was huge, then it's possible that Yule will be even bigger and more mind-bogglingly amazing...

Mnemosyne The scent: I'm using this both in an oil burner and on the skin. In the burner, it's a very fresh herbal scent, I'm thinking eucalyptus, rosemary/thyme, some evergreens? But on the skin it's not as fresh and herbal, it's actually sweet and spicy, and creamy-there's definitely some clove in here. Maybe a little vanilla/tonka, gingerbread spices, almost like Anthelion. It's a gorgeous smell on the skin, I must say. The intent: I used this for it's memory and concentration aiding purpose, by applying to the wrists and burning it as studied. This, to me, is a kinder, gentler concentration aid than, say, Concentration. This is more like having a kindly tutor helping me work out things that are troubling me, but without strictness. I found a lot of my studies made more sense as I worked with this oil. I also felt calmer and more at ease. A nice little coincidence happened when wearing this-after studying I went to watch the Reading festival on TV and the band performing when I was watching was Muse…and Mnemosyne is the mother of the muses! A small coincidence but interesting nonetheless. (And I love Muse's latest material...) I will be applying this oil to my third eye before sleeping to see if it has any effect on dreams. (if anything of note occurs I will update). I would love to use this oil for connecting to the Collective Unconscious, as I've always been fascinated by it. I must say that this oil does make me feel very meditative, which would seem appropriate for exploring the unconscious history of the world or past lives... I will definitely get a bottle of this since this is a lovely oil in both scent and intent.

Chaos Theory III: CDLXXXIX (489) From GypsyRoseRed's decant circle. In the imp: ohhh…GINGER! And not just any ginger, but sweet, sugared, spicy gingerbread ginger with a hint of cream…think a subtler Shub. Wet on skin: yes, this is creamy Shub! It's the same ginger, but less fierce-and I can smell something green too? Dry on skin: now I can smell pine…yes, this smells like Christmas! This smells like a fresh Xmas tree, that wonderful pine needle smell, in a house where gingerbread is cooking. This is the lovechild of Hearth 05 (the pine, maybe the sugary notes) and Gingerbread Poppet. So festive, so comforting, this will be lovely come December. After a while: eventually I think I'm picking up a hint of the caramelised chestnuts from Hearth 05 (or just the caramel), along with the pine. I also get something deep and boozy, perhaps buttery rum, and brandy, and of course, loads of spices-I get ginger, nutmeg and pepper now. I also get smoke here-either incense or fireside smoke, or even roasted chestnuts. After a few hours I get a soft pale wood background to the sugared spicy pine scent, it's either sandalwood or cedar. It's also a creamy sandalwood, reminds me of another BPAL-maybe Underpants? Verdict: this is, to me, like Hearth 05 but much better. It has that same caramelised nuts and pine scent to it but with the addition of gingerbread spices and a gorgeous smooth woody undertone to make it even more delicious. it reminds me of Shub at times, in fact, but has a drydown reminiscent of creamy sandalwood. This scent is warm, comforting, very much one for the winter and the festive season since it really does smell like Christmas tree at the start. Another stunner from the CT decants which, regrettably, I only have a decant of! I also hope that Beth makes scents like this for Yule… Emoticon rating:

Mad Hatter In the imp: minty-fresh pennyroyal over lavender. Wet on skin: sweet pennyroyal, lavender and now I get a lovely sweet black musk underneath. Dry on skin: whoa, this minty stuff is strong. The pennyroyal has a much more intense minty feel to it, hitting the throat with a blast of coolness. Underneath is the lavender and I'm sure I can smell moss there too, like a fougere/chypre scent. And then there's that musk…it's sweet, deep, rich black musk. It doesn't take over but it enhances the scent very nicely. Though it seems this musk is a little bit darker and more feral than the usual black musk. After a while: the lavender and mint fade and now the scent left is musk. It's faint-but close to the skin, it's quite nice. Not as sweet, sleek, and gorgeous as other black musk scents-this is more of a dark musk, slightly sweet, a little bit feral, almost like a darker, less sweet Siberian musk. It also reminds me of one of the musks in Smut, as it has a very slight 'rubbery' scent to it that, oddly, is quite nice here (and it's a lot more discreet than the Smut musks!) it's not the black musk I'm in love with but I like it-at least it doesn't veer towards civet-feral! I don't know but I'm pretty sure I smell moss here…it has that 'powdery light green' scent to it. Odd, since it's not mentioned, but I smell oak moss. And at the end I get something reminiscent of ambergris, as it smells ambery but also reminiscent of other ambergris scents. Verdict: this was a nice scent, and surprisingly sane for it's namesake character. A minty shock of pennyroyal fading to a darker skin musk. Despite it's promise of something feral, it's not as scary as I thought. This isn't the black musk I go nuts over but it's like a dark musk with a sweet, almost smoky feel to it. It's very tenacious and sticks around occasionally surprising me with its throw, despite it's deceptive subtlety. I think there are mossy/ambergris/fougere like nuances upon the drydown. Or maybe my nose is going mad (ha ha!) It's not a bad scent but not a favourite…I like the way it's understated and unisex though, but a bit too understated at times. I do have other musky scents I prefer. Emoticon rating: If you like this, try: Pain, Casanova, Wilde, Old Scratch