yeahbutnobut

Ostara In the bottle: fresh, zingy, springy citrus flowers. This reminds me of another BPAL-maybe the Ides of March? Or one of the Asian moons, or Litha? Or maybe Et Lux Fuit? I smell some honey in here too. Wet on skin: slightly sharp but very fresh and bright spring blossoms, and daffodil and grasses! Dry on skin: mmm, this is such a pretty scent-it is very lively and celebratory, makes me think of flowers bursting forth from the soil or buds bursting into bloom like fireworks. It's sharp and tangy, maybe due to the orange and bergamot, but very complex. There's a green grassy note which isn't listed in the notes (maybe the leaf notes?), reminiscent of Beth's general 'herbs' note which usually smells sharp and green on me, here it reminds me slightly of fresh ginger, oddly. I also get daffodil and violet/orris, and of spicy, smoky frankincense and copal (those two resins make a nice pair, I think) adding depth, they even add a little something reminiscent of Litha and King Cobra to it. I don't smell the honey cakes here yet, or the cream for that matter. Just vivid spring foliage and floral notes with a resinous backing. It is a more feminine and complex version of Ides of March as well. After a while: the sharpness does die down a little but it still smells clean and green. But the resins are surprisingly strong here, and they give the scent a wonderful candle-waxy incense scent, which I adored in King Cobra. This dark, incense and candles scent contrasts with the bright scents of greenery, light flowers and pollen that fringe this fragrance. I don't smell honey cakes but I do smell beeswax here which is just as lovely and adds to the 'candle' scent even more. I think the orris is adding even more of a 'King Cobra' feel to the scent…like ceremonial incense wafting out into a lovely spring day. Oddly, it also reminds me slightly of Silk Road at times as well. Eventually it settles into that lovely beeswax and incense scent dominated by the frankincense, smoky and golden, but with a hint of spring grasses, crisp blooms and yellow flowers. There's something to this almost like dandelion as well. it now has much more warmth to it, it’s like a balmy spring day, sunshine and greenery and pretty flowers, but with that mystical addition of incense. The incense notes are all that is left, along with the orris, after many hours. Being a lover of frankincense I adore this stage but it is so similar to King Cobra now, but without the dark feel of that scent…it also reminds me of Litha without the mead notes. Verdict: like the other pagan sabbat scents, this is wonderfully complex, ceremonial and celebratory all at once, and perfectly matching the season. It really is the energy and joy of spring captured in scent-the sudden explosion of green and blossoms that appears, the warmth of the lengthening days, I smell daffodils and grass and hints of blossoms falling from trees, crushed leaves and pollen. There's a wonderful undertone of resins and incense that is almost the opposite of the bouncy springy scent of flowers and greens, but it also complements it in an unusual way. It's almost like ritual incense burning in honour of spring, and also adds a feel of balmy warmth and golden sunshine to the scent. I'm not sure if I need the other bottle I ordered as I do prefer Litha and I was hoping for more sweetness and more of the honey cakes note, it's a little sharp at first. But the drydown is so nice, and this is a beautiful and very evocative fragrance, a perfect scent of the rebirth and rejuvenation of spring. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes! I'm keeping one bottle for sure, but I'm not sure if I need two yet. If you like this, try: Ides of March, Litha, Beltane, Et Lux Fuit, Orpheus, Silk Road, King Cobra

Virahotkantita In the imp: a very sharp lily and something like harsh jasmine. Very sour floral scent. Wet on skin: now the lilac comes out, but it's not a nice soft fresh lilac like in Melancholia or Whitechapel, this is harsher and more biting, and smells wilted. Dry on skin: sharp green flowers and wilted lilacs. Where's the bergamot, frankincense and cedar? All I can smell are nasty green flowers that are either wilted or sharply green...in fact it reminds me of that horrible smell of rotten vase water where dead flower stems have been soaking in for too long. It's not on the same level as Evil Gardenia, but these flowers have a greenness which is almost acidic to them. I am not too familiar with snowdrop and cereus so I wonder if that's what I smell? Some stargazer lily notes (not all-the ones in Peitho and Lyonesse are beautiful) can be very sharply green too. This now reminds me of White Moon, but even sharper and dissonant. After a while: this doesn't change much, it still stays as a sharp, shrill, vicious greenish floral. The lilac is a little stronger and I think I get a bare hint of wood, but other than that, it's still not a very nice scent, it's like pickled flowers. The end drydown after many hours is less sour-it has become bitter. But it doesn't improve much. Sour dying flowers. Not me at all. Verdict: this is, I'm afraid, my least favourite of the Heroines. I thought it would be at least wearable, thanks to nice notes like frankincense, but it just went very wrong on me. Shrill, shrieking acrid flowers, wilted and pickled. Some lilacs can be gorgeous on me, but other lilac scents smell sharp and shrivelled. This is the latter, I'm afraid. Ditto with stargazer lily notes, which in here also smells razor-sharp. I don't know much about what snowdrop or cereus (I think that usually sweetens on me-not here though) smell like. but this is a piercing, dissonant, vicious scent on me. I get none of the sweetness mentioned in reviews, or any incense...it doesn't even improve over time-maybe loses it's acidic edge, but it smells bitter and like rotten flowers after a while. It reminds me of White Moon a little-but whilst WM was a little gentler, especially at the beginning stages, this is just a disaster on me. My decant will have to go. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No. If you like this, try: Melancholia, Whitechapel, White Moon, Purple Phoenix, Les Fleurs Du Mal, Asphodel, Villain

Pink Moon 07 In the bottle: ohh, I can't believe no one's made the Morocco comparison yet! This is like a sweeter, more sugary, pinker Morocco! Wet on skin: mmm, now it reminds me of Antique Lace with added carnation. This is beautiful! Dry on skin: now it is pure, sweetened, glorious carnation with a sugary topping and a creamy background. I smell a hint of something green, another floral which I think is the phlox, and it doesn't seem to be smelling bad on me like I thought it would! This smells like a carnation bouquet, it smells like Lush Potion/Ruby Red Slippers without roses (I can't believe no one's made that comparison either!), and also like Alice as well, and Hope and Faith. So pink and so beautiful…and so carnation-y, even more than the single note, on me. It smells like a real pink carnation flower, complete with leaves and stems. After a while: the carnation starts to reveal more of its clove like scent and deepens a little. The sugary note now becomes a little creamier, almost like warm condensed milk, and it reminds me of Hod now, with extra spice and pinkness. It now reminds me of the carnation SN a little, but whilst I thought that was much too strong and didn't smell as carnation-y as I hoped, this is just right. It's so true to the flower…and I don't smell any phlox here now, unless it's adding a little more sweetness? It's not the cavity-inducing sweetness I feared though…not at all! Indeed it smells a little bit more Morocco-like now with it's spicy kick (though less mysterious and exotic) and it's creamy sugary background, which I'm sure is turning a little bit musky! Yowee! The drydown is a wonderful soft pink fragrance of creamy vanilla milk/custard with warm musk and lots and lots of spicy Potion-like carnation. This really is a girly comfort scent but isn't childish at all-it's innocent and gentle but the spice and depth of the carnation note makes this a little more grown up. And it just gets smoother and more gorgeous and creamier over time, with a soft musk undertone, until it really becomes the lovechild of Potion and Morocco. Fantastic. Verdict: out of all the April moons I've tried so far, this is my absolute favourite. This is the truest carnation scent I've ever experienced from BPAL so far-if not the most perfect carnation scent of all time. Carnation with that wonderfully 'clove-y' scent to it, like a true carnation should have, but with that pink, frilly, floral sweetness. A little dash of creamy sugar added and this is perfection! I also used to think I disliked phlox, but in here I don't smell it much-in fact, it may be responsible for the lovely hint of green I get at the start and for adding an extra dimension of pink to the scent. I also agree that this scent is the 'lost triplet' of Hope and Faith, and it still smells like sugary Morocco without the musk and sandalwood, and also reminds me of Alice. It does remind me of the previous Pink Moon, but not as over-sugared…whilst I loved PM05, I much prefer this one. It smells like Lush Potion on me as well, which I adore. It just gets more like carnations floating in spicy cream with a hint of vanilla musk over time, warm and fluffy, comforting, and pink and beautiful. I am so glad that my birthday moon smells so fantastic this year! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Oh yes! I'm getting yet another bottle from a forum sale! And I want a third bottle now… If you like this, try: Morocco, Alice, Hod, Antique Lace, Hope, Faith, Ghagiel, Pink Moon 05

Ugh In the imp: whoa, medicinal. It’s like one of those heat rubs, a herbal-menthol scent with some warm spicy notes, lemon, herbs, and a menthol or eucalyptus note. Wet on skin: now the lemon comes out even more, it smells just like lemon essential oil with herbs and spices and menthol. Dry: citrus and spices! It smells like lemon with either cinnamon or clove, but now come to think of it the lemon smells like orange. In fact, this smells just like my Christmas blend, a room fragrance scent I make out of cinnamon, clove, orange and maybe some pine essential oils. This smells just like those festive oils, but blended with something warmer, possibly ginger or pepper, and something cool like menthol or camphor. Maybe also some lemon as it also reminds me of drinking honey and lemon for sore throats. It’s odd that a scent can be simultaneously warming and cooling, but this is just that. Citrus and spice and herbs…there may be a touch of rosemary here, maybe juniper or pine. But it smells mostly like a mix of orange/lemon, cinnamon and clove oils. The scent feels very soothing and warm on my skin. After a while: as it fades, the scent becomes more and more like orange or tangerine peel. Another example of a citrus scent lasting for ages on me (after trying Fire Pig-I wonder if my skin is latching on to citrus more these days?) and it reminds me of the that lingers on my hands after peeling a tangerine. It also reminds me of a type of unusual, exotic citrus called ‘combava’. The fruit is dried and it’s dry, brown flesh is used to flavour savoury cooking. There may also be some bergamot here. This bittersweet, almost toasted, lemon peel and tangerine oil scent lasts for a very long time-an amazing feat for citrus! Verdict: out of the relief scents, I thought this would be the one I needed least (the only muscle ache I get is if I get neck ache in my sleep, that’s how active I am these days, lol), but upon wearing it I realised how versatile this oil can be. With it’s spicy citrus scent with a hint of herbs, it’s like a natural deep heat rub, I could definitely rub this stuff neat (or maybe with a touch of carrier oil) onto any achy bits. But it seems also like an oil I could rub on any general ache-it reminds me of cold remedies with it’s almost Lemsip-like lemon scent (only more natural) and I think this could be rubbed on any sore parts I get when I have a nasty flu that makes me ache…in fact, that’s what I’d probably use this for as I am such an un-sporty person, so muscle ache isn’t something I get often. I do walk a lot though, so maybe I could rub this on achy legs and feet after long strolls or treks...or maybe after dancing too much? Maybe even to relieve period pains (in conjunction with Bitch)? Or even, as it smells very festive and almost pomander-like, as a warming winter massage to relieve the strain of Christmas shopping. I could think of many purposes for this healing concoction. I don’t need a bottle yet, but I will do a full test-run (ie, test it on any achy muscles I might get) and see whether this works as good as it smells-I have a feeling it might. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? I think so-it smells good, it feels good, hopefully it works too!

Snake Oil with four mints, bergamot, and green tea. Green Tree Viper In the imp: dark vanilla mint! Think a darker version of Snowblind without butter, or Lick It’s evil sister. In fact…this smells just like mint fudge! Wet on skin: now a hint of earl grey tea comes out, but it still smells like mint fudge! Dry: oh wow, this is delicious. So delicious. There’s a type of mint fudge that I absolutely adore, it is posh and very refined, expensive fudge, sold at the Buckingham Palace shop (I think). It’s mint, sugar and maybe some vanilla and condensed milk. I smell that exact type of fudge here (must be a reaction of the mint with the Snake Oil), along with a fresh cup of earl grey tea. The bergamot and tea make a wonderful earl grey scent just like Theodosius’s tea note, combined with mint fudge, this is fantastic. After a while: as the mint fades, the scent becomes the most delicious earl grey vanilla musk! Think the lovechild of Snake Oil and Dorian or Theodosius! Creamy, fresh, smooth, and delicious, with a citrus tang of bergamot, and the green tea in here is more like a milky dark vanilla tea note as opposed to the fresh astringent citrus like scent I get with green tea. There’s still a touch of mint to it, but it’s almost like a menthol note, fresh and piercing, but it isn’t strong or medicinal and doesn’t detract from the beautiful earl grey and vanilla scent. The mint does go away eventually but the cool creamy vanilla tea is to die for. It just gets smoother and creamier and more delicious as the SO and tea notes merge over time, it is divine. Like a darker Dorian, in fact…and the vanilla at this point gains a creamy scent reminiscent of vanilla fudge (not mint fudge, but still, mmm, fudge * Homer Simpson style drool*) After a few hours it becomes a little drier, with a slight ‘citrus peel’ scent to it, but it’s still really nice…and then it gradually dries down to a really sexy greenish sweet musk, like Snake Oil with a greenish tinge and a hint of tea. I swear I even get something woodsy (putting the ‘tree’ into Green Tree Viper), or something like the fougere in Theodosius, something like cedar or moss. It smells slightly more masculine at this point, but in a good way. I’d love to smell this on a guy. Verdict: this scent reminds me of two of my favourite things: mint fudge, and earl grey and vanilla tea (like the kind Tetley’s make, which I always call ‘drinkable Dorian’). I never thought tea and Snake Oil would be so beautiful together, but this blew me away! First it smells like mint fudge, or more precisely, like a really posh variety of mint fudge which I think is the best ever. Sweet sugary vanilla and mint, it is delicious and gourmand but also cooling and light. But then the scent transforms from one yummy scent into another-creamy vanilla earl grey tea. This is the Dorian snake, or maybe Theodosius’s pet. The bergamot and tea combine to create earl grey, the vanilla just making this even more wonderful, the musk adding a hint of non-foody smoothness. I love the reaction the Snake Oil gives to the lighter notes, the SO itself lightens and becomes almost like Dorian’s vanilla musk. So this scent ends off as earl grey vanilla musk, with a hint of something almost cologne like, and a little bit of creaminess. So good. This will be perfect for summer, I agree-I don’t find it as cooling as Lick It Again though, but the scent of this stuff is such that I will be stockpiling this snake. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Oh yeah. This is magnificent! Mint fudge and vanilla tea? Gimme more! If you like this, try: Snake Oil, Theodosius, Lick It (Again), Dorian, Severin

Coral Snake In the imp: crisp sweet apple, a hint of citrus, and gardenia. Wet on skin: why do I smell banana? I know, it’s odd, but I get apples and bananas now. Dry: apples and bananas! Now this smells remarkably like those fruit smoothies I used to make with apples, bananas and orange juice. I smell the sharpness of orange (it’s not as strong as blood orange tends to be) and lemon, crisp apple, and something like banana. There’s a faint twinge of sharp gardenia and some sweet plumeria, but I don’t get the spices and autumnal mulled cider scents mentioned previously (the apple does verge on cider-like at times though, but no spices)-in fact, this smells like the tropical fruit cocktail I expected, and reminds me of Shango. No Snake Oil yet. After a while: oh darn it, now I smell Evil Gardenia. Not the nice gardenia that’s in Faiza, but the one that ruined the likes of Has No Hanna and Lady of Shalott. It’s not as bad as those two scents, but I smell that dry, greenish, harshly acrid flower with cloying, overripe bananas. No more apple, no citrus, and certainly no Snake Oil. The gardenia does go away but the overripe, fermenting bananas scent is still there…there’s a bitter background to it, but I’m really not keen on the sickly fruit scent. Where’s the apple I really enjoyed at first? The fruit smoothie scent? Why on earth am I getting rotting banana? Then, the scent goes back to bitter gardenia again. There’s still a hint of sweetness, thankfully the banana’s gone, but the scent doesn’t smell very nice on me either, sort of like wilted pickled flowers. It’s only after a couple of hours that the scent becomes more acceptable, a soft sweet dry flower scent with vanilla and a hint of banana, the Snake Oil has come out a little now. The apple makes a comeback after about 5 hours, when it becomes a tart cider fringed by dry petals and a hint of sweetness…but I don’t get as much SO as I hoped. After about 6 hours it is nice, musky floral sweetness with a little vanilla. Verdict: this is the only Snake in the Pit that disappointed me. It had a promising start, with a scent of home made fruit smoothies, like the apple-orange-banana smoothies I used to make for breakfast. I smelt banana in here, no idea why, but didn’t think much of it as it fitted with the tropical vibe this scent had…but then the banana turned evil. It took over the entire scent and turned cloying and overripe. And to add insult to injury…the gardenia in here is of the ‘evil’ variety, my nemesis, it added a sharp, acrid, vicious sourness to the scent, pushing the lovely apple scent out of the way. So for a long time the scent was overripe fermenting banana with Evil Gardenia, no apple or Snake Oil, and certainly none of the spices and mulled cider mentioned in other reviews. The scent only becomes agreeable after 5-6 hours, when the banana and gardenia finally depart and the apple returns, and the scent is a pretty floral-fruit-vanilla. However, I really don’t like the stages before this-smelling of almost rotting banana and mutant burning pickled petals isn’t my thing at all. Oh well, at least I have much love for all the other snakes...maybe this might need a little aging? Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No. I’m getting a Snake Pit, but this may be the only bottle I sell or swap off. If you like this, try: Shango, Manila, Hesperides, Punkie Night, Australian Copperhead, Snake Oil

Pikaki SN In the imp: a slightly sharp, yet wet and very tropical white flower. Very much like jasmine. Wet on skin: a sharp, but also much wetter, softer and fresher floral scent. Dry: oh, this is very pretty. It smells like jasmine, but more tropical and damp, definitely a Hawaiian scent. Soft white crisp flowers with smooth petals covered in dewdrops. So pretty. It reminds me of fresh jasmine blossoms, but less sultry and heady than most-this is fresher and wetter. After a while: the sharpness fades completely and now the scent is a beautifully creamy, almost fruity-musky jasmine scent. smooth, soft, and beautiful, nothing bitter or biting about this white flower…and I can safely say this is jasmine sambac because this smells very much like the jasmine in Kanishta now, except without all the other notes in that scent. It also reminds me of tiare gardenia, or frangipani, it’s very much an ‘island flower’ scent. The drydown after a few hours isn’t as nice as the fresher stages, it smells like dry flower petals with an earthy and dirty undertone, but it’s not as acridly green as some white floral notes become on drydown. Verdict: this is a very pretty exotic floral scent. I’m sure this is jasmine sambac because it reacts the same way as the sambac blends to-starts off piercing and sharp but then smoothes to an almost creamy white floral scent which is beautiful and tropical, a true island bloom. This is the kind of jasmine I like-despite it’s slightly biting scent at the start, it goes smooth and soft yet heady and floral, not the other way round like some jasmine scents do. This is delightful if worn alone but I’m sure it would be just as lovely when layered. I’m glad I have an imp or so of this rare and gorgeous floral-it’s a holiday in Hawaii in a little vial. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes!

Anaconda In the imp: caramel! Lots and lots of Gluttony-style caramel with Sugar Skull brown sugar. Darkly sweet like treacle toffee. Wet on skin: now I smell Snake Oil underneath that sugary butterscotch layer! Maybe even a little Snake Charmer as well… Dry: mmm, now it’s much smokier, I now smell the tobacco that other people mentioned. This is amazing. I think this could be considered the masculine version of Snake Charmer, although maybe masculine is incorrect since this is very unisex. It’s sweet and foody dark caramel mixed with tobacco and bonfire smoke, with the Snake Oil base behind it. I also smell fruit, like plum, which also makes this smell strongly like Snake Charmer and Mme Moriarty. This is gorgeous and the caramel isn’t as overwhelming now. After a while: the scent’s throw increases dramatically and it smells like the most delicious fusion of Sugar Skull, Trick #2, Mme Moriarty and Snake Oil/Charmer. The perfect dark caramel-nothing cloying or buttery here, this is treacle toffee laced with smoke, over a fruity Snake Oil base. So good. It becomes smokier and develops the nutty quality that a lot of BPAL caramel scents have but never turns sickening, it’s like brown sugar and maple syrup in here. And eventually it fades and the Snake Oil scent surfaces, only it’s drier and more ‘crumbly’ in texture, like there’s a toasted almond aspect, similar to Asp Viper. The drydown is a wonderful balance of delicious brown sugar caramel and Snake Oil. The perfect balance between the two-the caramel doesn’t take over or smell too heavy like it sometimes can. Verdict: this is the most wonderful caramelised Snake Oil scent, the perfect mix of gourmand goodness with the familiar Snake Oil base, shot through with hints of smoke and a tempting, teasing hint of Snake Charmer! The caramel note in here is perfect-not cloying, sickly or with that odd ‘burnt nut’ scent I sometimes get in the foody scents, it doesn’t take over the scent either. The caramel and the Snake Oil are on equal terms here. there may be hints of chocolate to this but I swear I get plum and also something like tobacco. This is so delicious and it lasts for ages on the skin as well, it makes me want to nibble myself. I really wish this was available in bottles, but I’ll make the most of the little implet I have of this, and will also keep the imps I get in my Snake Pit purchases. Definitely one to hoard and covet. It’s almost evil that this is only available in imps! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes! I wish I could get a bottle… If you like this, try: Snake Oil, Sugar Skull, Cockaigne, Asp Viper, Creepy, Elegba, Red Lantern, Mme Moriarty

Faiza In the imp: honey and deep, woodsy, lightly spiced, earthy fruit. Wet on skin: honey and ginger pop out first, followed by blackberry and caraway, and flowers. Dry: ooh, I like this. It is honey and blackberry at first, with a little hint of orange, over a warm spicy woodsy green floral layer. Very complex and twisting. It’s dark and black-green and a little damp, but also warm, scaly and dry. The flowers then come to the fore, blossoming beautifully (and the gardenia in here is of the gorgeous variety!) amongst a light sandalwood note covered in moss and with the gritty spice of caraway and ginger. Underneath it all, amber and vanilla and musk add their deep sleek sweetness. After a while: the florals tone down a little, and the scent becomes almost masculine, but definitely unisex. The wood, musk and spices are dominant now. It’s almost green but now quite, more like a green sheen on a black-tan-gold scent. It smells predominantly of toasted caraway (which is more gorgeous than I expected), fresh sandalwood, dark viscous musk and a very pleasant blackberry (this isn’t the infamous ‘cat pee’ blackberry). This is very mysterious, and the notes seem to merge into each other-it’s hard to make individual notes out. The sandalwood, heated softly by ginger, topped with gentle moss and caraway, gradually becomes the dominant note. I don’t smell as much honey or flowers at this point. It’s a murky fragrance but not oppressive. There are moments when the amber peeks out of this exotic woodsy berry darkness, and the musk adds its slick black depth to it all. Such an unusual but very wearable scent. The drydown is where the honey and amber come out again and the scent gains an earthy, almost dirty feel reminiscent of some of the patchouli scents, even though patch isn’t listed as a note…maybe the musk is giving this an almost sweaty (but not in a bad way! More like clean sexy sweat) feel to this scent. It also reminds me of a feminine Luperci at this point, with it’s honey and musk and moss and woodsy greenness. Verdict: this is a very complex scent, it could have gone in a spicy, fruity, woodsy, floral or sweetly musky direction, but overall the scent is both moistly dark green, and also scaly and dry, it is an exotic scent where the woods and moss are dominant, with spices adding warmth here and there, and a hint of musk and fruit at the base. In fact, all the notes blend so well that it’s hard to pick any one note out. The honey makes a fleeting appearance on first application but fades away to make way for low-key flowers, green woods and dry spices, though it returns at drydown. It’s surprisingly unisex-anyone who fears the jasmine and gardenia need not worry-they are very subtle here. Indeed, there are moments when it smells almost masculine but thankfully not too much. It is totally different to the other serpentine scents like Snake Oil, Charmer and the Pit scents, in fact it reminds me a little bit of Luperci, but really and truly this is scent is quite unique…very BPAL but different to most BPALs I’ve tried. It’s not my favourite snake-themed scent but I like this a lot and will eventually get a bottle of this seductive, snaky lady before she slithers away. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Sure it is, I think I’ll get a bottle some day. If you like this, try: The Oblation, Snake Oil, Luperci, Kanishta, Bitter Moon

Isaac In the imp: holy crap, alcohol! This smells like straight-up bourbon, nothing added. So boozy! Wet on skin: still pure bourbon, but now I smell tobacco adding it’s crisp, smoky touch. Dry: sweet woody tobacco, almost like that of a pipe, with a shot of bourbon, no ice. I was hoping this would be like the sweet bourbon I loved in Juke Joint, but this is different-firstly it’s a much truer bourbon (JJ was more of a sweeter, almost resinous-patchouli boozy scent with mint) and secondly, it smells a little too realistic for me, like I spilt bourbon on my wrist. It’s so alcoholic, I don’t think I should drive wearing this scent! There is a dry, dusty, smoky background to it though…I don’t smell much cologne but it may be that the bay rum is contributing to the alcoholic scent I get here. After a while: now the booze smells more like light rum than a heavy bourbon, but it’s still very much an alcoholic scent. Only now, I smell more tobacco…but it’s a fresher tobacco than most, it smells almost like there’s cologne there too, but it’s a nice cologne, not a sharp, overwhelming one. The aftershave-splashed tobacco scent is almost like a lighter version of Herr Dross, and there’s a pale, dry dusty scent to it, probably the bone note. But despite its boozy note, it’s a very light, airy scent, thin and transparent as the remaining scraps of skin that attempt to cover Isaac’s bones. It’s actually a very pleasant, almost fatherly-definitely gentlemanly-tobacco scent, but seems a lot fresher and crisper than that of Herr Dross, Hellfire etc, even though it does resemble the pipe tobacco note from those scents. There does seem to be a little more ‘manly perfume’ showing up at the end, as the scent evolves from booze and smoke to become a scent of distinguished, grown up tobacco cologne. Verdict: this, and Mad Sweeney, are the booziest BPALs I’ve encountered. At first it’s pure bourbon, very alcoholic and woozy, this isn’t the lovely mint julep of Juke Joint here, this is straight up booze. But after some time, this burns off a little and the tobacco comes out, as well as the perfumey notes, and it turns into a light, soft, tobacco cologne. The tobacco note isn’t as heavy as some, this is a crisper, paler tobacco, and the cologne and aftershave notes are surprisingly nice-I was expecting this to smell really perfumey, but the cologne here is very refined and with the tobacco, it gives the impression of a very sophisticated men’s fragrance. It does have a dry, dusty feel to it, which seems apt for the character, and the scent as a whole is subtle at drydown. It’s quite a thin scent, bare and indeed, quite skeletal. So whilst this fits the character perfectly (and I’m impressed at how genuinely alcoholic it smells at first, even if it is too much for me) I think this scent is a little bit too masculine for me to pull off. I’d love to smell this on a guy, but for now I think I’ll swap/sell this. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No-it’s much too boozy and manly. If you like this, try: Hellcat, Juke Joint, Hellfire, Herr Drosselmeyer, Carceri D’Invenzione

Hellfire A scent celebrating Sir Francis Dashwood's Order of the Knights of St. Francis of Wycombe, also known as the Hellfire Club. A swirl of pipe tobacco, hot leather, ambergris, dark musk and the lingering incense smoke from their Black Mass. In the imp: huh? I have dregs at the bottom of my imp, a solid residue that needs to be gently mixed into the oil. The scent…honey? I smell smoky honey or smoky beeswax here. Weird. Wet on skin: now I smell the tobacco, leather and incense (there's definitely some myrrh here)…but it still smells honeyed. Dry: honeyed pipe tobacco. This is a really intriguing scent. The dominant scent is a 'grandfatherly' tobacco scent, warm and woody and rich, slightly comforting too, with a hint of honey. I smell bitter myrrh-based incense smoke and worn leather in here as well. It brings to mind a darkened room, men smoking pipes, leather chairs, wooden tables and polished wooden floors, and ritual incense burning. But the pipe tobacco gives it that cosy quality that is also in the likes of Herr Drosselmeyer. After a while: eventually the honey fades and the tobacco's soft and woodsy scent becomes stronger. This really does smell like Herr Dross now, with it's leather and pipe tobacco. I don't smell the musk or ambergris here but I do get a woodsy note at the back, and I still get incense. It's a very complex smoky scent, warm and dark and shadowed, and also gentlemanly. Like Dee with added tobacco. The scent stays pretty constant, a warm, incense-wrapped woodsy tobacco, with that almost honeyed twist coming back every now and then. Verdict: this is a pleasant, if a little masculine, tobacco scent. there are some tobacco notes which smell rich and warm and comforting to me, this is one of them. It's a very sophisticated, a gentleman's scent, pipe tobacco with worn leather seats, but there's an oddly honeyed scent at times, and also a gorgeous bittersweet incense that winds it's way through the scent. It reminds me of Herr Drosselmeyer and Hearth 04-that 'grandfather smoking a pipe on a comfy leather sofa' scent, with added incense. I like it but it's a little bit too manly for me, I think. Grown up and mature, this is the scent of an older man, but not really my thing...though I can't stop sniffing myself, it has something cosy yet mysterious about it. I think it's the way this smells almost like Dee at times, but I prefer Dee to this, I think. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No, it's a little too masculine, but darkly intriguing and also oddly comforting. If you like this, try: Dee, Herr Drosselmeyer, Perversion, Ogun, Isaac the Living Skeleton, Les Infortunes de la Vertu, Parliament of Monsters

Australian Copperhead In the imp: a very sharp fresh berry, somewhere between pomegranate, apple and cranberry. Wet on skin: crisp, wet, fresh and sharp berry…and smoke? Dry: mmm, this is interesting. This acai berry smells very much like a cross between an apple and a redcurrant now, it even does the strange ‘foamy cider/appletiser with a hint of sweet potato and floral’ reaction I get with many apple scents (that’s no bad thing though-I like it here), it reminds me of the Hesperides or Punkie Night. I get some smoke, presumably from the smoked vanilla…I wasn’t expecting it to be smoky like that though. I don’t smell the neroli or cardamom (which I was really hoping for) or the amber, but I really like this for now, it’s an unusual apple-berry scent which seems to be sweetening… After a while: oh, now I really like this. The tartness of the berry has toned down dramatically and the scent is like a sweet apple mush-you know when you mash up apples, or grate them? That’s what I smell here, with a hint of vanilla and maybe some amber and the tiniest hint of spice. It’s very nice and soft, almost fluffy, like a mousse, but also fresh and light-this is definitely one for the warmer months. I then get the same fluffy ‘apple-berry mousse’ scent but even sweeter, deliciously vanilla infused, warmed by amber and with a little neroli, perhaps the barest hint of cardamom. This cardamom isn’t the strong spice from Enraged Groundhog, Phantom Calliope or Alone, but a much softer cardamom. The drydown is pretty much the same gorgeous fluffy white fruit scent with a gorgeous hint of amber/vanilla. I don’t get much Snake Oil here but it’s very pretty nonetheless. But then, about five hours into wear, the most beautiful, beautiful amber surfaces. Sweet, rich, and juicy, this is a sugared fruity amber which just glows with sweet radiance. And it smells really strong at this point, emitting a scent of golden amber beauty. I was huffing my wrist like a mad thing when I was in bed and the scent had reached this stage, that’s how good it was! Verdict: I’ve never eaten or smelt acai but this scent is really interesting…it’s a very tart, sharp berry but on me it smells very apple-like, crossed with pomegranates or cranberries or currants, it’s different to apple but it has similar qualities on my skin. It smells like tart fruit juice which then turns to a fluffy ‘fruit mousse’ scent with a bit of vanilla for sweetness. Very pleasant and summery, I like the way the vanilla counteracts the biting tartness of the berry. But this is nothing compared to the drydown. It’s all well and good smelling like fluffy berries, but after a few hours of wear, the amber turns up and steals the show magnificently. And what an amazing amber note this is. Glorious and golden, it has the fruity qualities that came before but with a glistening golden sweet resinous scent which is breathtaking-and also surprisingly strong. I adore this amber drydown so much, but the berry scent, with it’s tangy, almost playful scent is perfect for warmer weather, so this is another snake scent that I have fallen for. My paypal fears the prospect of me buying a Snake Pit. I think I need to stock up on this…I bet a bit of aging will make that amber note even more spectacular. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes! This is a lovely, fresh yet sweet summer scent with a magnificent finale, I need a bottle or two. These Snakes are really wowing me! If you like this, try: Snake Oil, Hesperides, Punkie Night, Rosalind, Jester, Ladon, Hymn to Proserpine

The Wild Men of Jezirat Al Tennyn In the imp: exotic, richly spiced ambergris, almost musky, golden and warm. Wet on skin: mmm, spicy ambergris. I smell Spanish moss too-but it’s actually being nice in here! Dry: wow, this is amazing stuff. It smells like mossy amber sprinkled with warm spices. Normally I’m not crazy about Spanish moss but it seems to work nicely in here, providing a cool, wet contrast for the spicy warm amber. The pepper is hot and fiery, backed up by the sweetness of clove, all surrounded by the exotic aroma of amber and a deep, earthy patchouli. Like the GC blend named after the island where these wild guys come from, this scent unites the elements into one scent, but this smells better and warmer than Jezirat Al Tennyn. After a while: oh dear, the moss is now dominant! It’s not bad, at least it’s not becoming oppressive like it can do, there’s still that peppery warmth prevalent in the scent, and a hint of rich resinous amber. It’s just that the scent has moved away from the almost sophisticated and slinky amber tones into something more primordial and swampy, damp and marsh-like…but with sparks of pepper all around. Then, after the mossy blast recedes, the spices return. It’s mainly pepper (which smells like chilli meets regular peppercorns) over a warm skin scent of ambergris. This would be fabulous on a man. It doesn’t have the amber sweetness it had before but now the patchouli is a little more evident. The drydown to this is very nice indeed, a dry, golden patchouli sprinkled with warm spices and with a glint of ambergris, and the remnants of moss. Verdict: whoa, this scent is intense, complex and full of contrasts. The two dominant notes in this are ambergris and moss, both are very different (the ambergris is warm and golden, a little musky, the moss is cooler and wetter and dirty-earthy), and over it all is a hot, fiery scent of spices and a deep patchouli undertone. The scent is a battle between the moss and the amber, when the amber wins the scent is like an exotic perfume spiked with pepper, and when the moss takes over the scent becomes green and wet and swamp-like. That being said, this isn’t oppressively mossy, I’m not a fan of Spanish moss but in here the other notes stop it from becoming a rampaging swamp-monster. It’s a scent of earth, fire and water mainly, very elemental and primal, quite wild as the name implies, and with a gorgeous spiced patchouli-amber drydown. I admire the complexity and facets of this scent, almost like Luperci with amber and a sprinkling of pepper, I’m debating whether to get a bottle though. it does smell a little too manly for me at times, but there are stages in this scent which I really like. But for now, I’m keeping the decant. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Maybe. It does get a little masculine and really mossy at times but I love the spicy amber-patchouli. Maybe one bottle, but not yet. If you like this, try: Jezirat Al Tennyn, Luperci, RM Renfield, Bayou, Cathode, Omen

Luperci 07 In the imp: fresh earthy damp patchouli with a hint of honey. Wet on skin: mossy patchouli with honey and beeswax. Dry: mmm, this is very similar to last year’s, only a little more mossy. I smell mainly moss, patchouli, and something woody or rooty (Sampson root?) with a slight hint of sweetness from sandalwood, mingled with a skin musk. It is an incredibly earthy scent, it seems to evoke nature, the wild, the forest. The moss is surprisingly strong and seems to remind me more of the heavier, more oppressive Spanish moss than the usual softly powdery oak moss I got in the 06 version. After a while: the moss never develops the overwhelming quality of Spanish moss but it is the dominant note. it strengthens more upon drydown as the scent gains an almost dirty quality…the patch sure is strong in here! but the honey/beeswax are nowhere to be seen, or smelt, not now at least. Earthy, dirty, masculine and wild, I also smell a hint of something darkly woody, almost like vetiver, and also something musky to it as well, like warm skin. It gets darker and smokier over time, and I swear that this really does have a drop of unlisted vetiver hidden under all that moss and patchouli, as my skin is amping that note up, as usual. It also has a similar ‘root and soil’ scent to Mandrake. Verdict: this is very similar to last year’s, but I find it a little less honeyed and sweet, and a lot more mossy and dark, and masculine. It does have the same honeyed mossy patchouli to start with but I think the moss used in here is much more potent than the softer moss in 06, though not as overwhelming as the moss in Renfield. The dirty, earthy scent is also more evident, it is quite a wild scent but doesn’t smell animalistic, and it is very much a scent of the forest, mossy dirt and tree roots. Very evocative, and a little bit more virile than last year’s. the drydown is oddly like vetiver, dark and heavy and clinging to the skin for a long time. I like this, but I prefer the 06 version which has more honey/beeswax, a softer moss note, and also has a gorgeous incense scent running through, which I don’t get as much of in this one. I also find this version a little too manly for me, so I think I’ll sell/swap my decant and make the most of my bottle of Luperci 06. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? I have a bottle of 06, which I like enough so I think I’ll pass this decant on. If you like this, try: Mandrake, Hetiarae, RM Renfield, Cathode, Gnome, Samhainophobia, Omen, the Wild Men of Jezirat Al Tennyn

Banded Sea Snake In the imp: powdery green mosses, with the oily-sweet scent of olive leaf. Wet on skin: powdery but wet mosses, fruity-sweet-oily olive leaf, and a hint of springtime greenery. Dry: mmm, this is surprisingly nice! Oak moss and sea moss are nice mosses on me, smelling green and softly powdery as opposed to some mosses that smell like humid swamp lichen. The olive leaf is the star here though-it’s a note that is pleasantly oily, and sweet, and fruity and green all at once, but doesn’t smell like olives…though I’m sure I’ve smelt an olive oil moisturiser with this scent as it is oddly familiar. I also smell crushed leaves and grasses and soft sweet notes that are almost foody…and a little hint of a sea breeze wafting over it all. It actually reminds me of Lyonesse meets Tzadikim Nistarim with a hint of one of the greener mossy scents… After a while: it smoothes to a very soft, gentle, sweetly green scent. It’s mossy and creamy, and also surprisingly sweet (maybe that’s the Snake Oil?), with an aspect of fresh wet greenness to it, like cut grass. This is very smooth and also surprisingly soothing, it reminds me of a good quality moisturiser-it’s got an oily creaminess to it, like a luxurious balm I’d like to rub all over your skin…it also reminds me of an aftersun cream, but that’s probably because of the strong summery feel this scent has, it’s almost like a summer holiday scent even if it doesn’t smell stereotypically tropical. It’s green and gold, sunlight streaming through trees into clear sea water… And over time, this really does become like Lyonesse’s serpentine cousin. That’s probably why I love this so much. It has that same creamy beachy mossy vanilla musk feel to it, only with a bit of olive leaf added. So gorgeous. It also has impressive throw. It brings to mind the image of a beautiful mermaid-type woman that has a snake’s tail instead of the tail of a fish. (And seeing other reviews, I definitely can smell something like Dorian in here!) Verdict: this 'Snake Oil on the beach' scent really, really took me by surprise in the best way possible. I originally thought ‘hmm, mossy Snake Oil. Could be nice, could be a bit meh, not sure about the olive’ but then I tried it…and now I’m besotted by this slithery, summery snaky scent. It smells mossy, for sure, but this is the wonderful soft powdery vanilla-moss-musk with ‘a hint of the sea’ from Lyonesse, one of my favourite scents. And the olive leaf in here is amazing, it is oily, but in the best way possible-think the sweet, golden ‘anointing oil’ scent of Tzadikim Nistarim, it makes this whole scent smell like a luxurious fragrant body oil or cream that I want to slather all over. And it also makes me think of summer and exotic beaches, even though it contains no salty aquatics or typically tropical notes. It seems as though Snake Oil actually transforms into a gentle, gorgeous, Dorian-esque vanilla-musk when mixed with softer notes (the same also happened with Green Tree Viper and Cottonmouth) instead of smelling heavy sweet patchouli and spiced incense, and I love this reaction. This beautifully smooth, sensuous scent will be worn a lot during the summer months when regular Snake Oil may be too heavy to wear-I need to get a bottle or two of this unexpected hit from the Pit! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? This is surprisingly good, actually. Definitely a bottle candidate for summer. If you like this, try: Green Tree Viper, Lyonesse, Cottonmouth, Tzadikim Nistarim, Yemaya, Haloa, Lycaon, Snake Oil, Dorian

King Cobra In the imp: huh? This is odd as the strongest scent comes just after the initial sniff-a kind of after-smell if you like-and it’s of raisins and smouldering incense, or the wine-frankincense of Haloa. Wet on skin: yup, it really is like Haloa, this one. Resins and buttercream and wine! Dry: now I smell a little more of the copal, it smells drier and more ‘crumbly’, and also less sharp than frankincense, it reminds me of the resins in Tezcatlipoca or Xiuhtecuhtli. this is a gorgeous scent! It’s the same frankincense from Lycaon and Haloa, which has a wine-matured scent to it, smouldering with the drier, glittery gold scent of copal. I can’t make out the Snake Oil or orris yet but for now this is a gorgeous mix of golden, bright, regal resins gently burning. But I swear there’s some myrrh here. I smell myrrh resin here even though it’s not listed…and olive leaf as well. After a while: eventually the incense becomes even drier and warmer. This scent is probably the scent that reminds me most of gold, not the colour or golden sunlight, but the metal itself, it even has a hint of something metallic about it, and it sparkles. It makes me think of gold nuggets mixed with dry golden resins, and brings to mind royal golden crowns and jewels. I can’t really make out the SO but I think the orris adds a dusty aspect to the smokiness that now wafts from this fragrance. And then, something wonderful surfaces…the scent of blown out candles! Yes! I now smell a gorgeous scent of candle smoke wafting around the gold-nugget resins, and now the scent reminds me of Arcana’s Holy Terror, there’s even a scent at the base like polished wood. And then it becomes a delightful church incense scent-the copal seems to have faded leaving the lingering scent of frankincense smoke left behind in a shadowy church or temple, lit only by the glimmering light of candles. It’s amazing how this now really smells so much like a church, it reminds me of Carfax Abbey but without the dusty, herbal, old fashioned and airy feel of that scent, but there’s a feeling of space and emptiness, like it’s no longer resins smouldering, but a huge spacious hall where incense has burnt. It also reminds me of that beautiful smouldering candle smoke enhanced frankincense in Mara Fox’s Sugared Frankincense & Myrrh, which I adore. Verdict: I think I need an entire Snake Pit. This is another truly spectacular serpentine scent, a scent that evokes pure glistening gold, and empty sacred halls of temples and churches where incense and candles once burnt. First it is very similar to Haloa, in that I can almost smell sweet wine in there, but then the resins do their thing, frankincense and copal mixing and smelling so wonderfully golden, dry and sparkling. Very regal indeed, fit for a king of snakes. But then, the scent suddenly transforms into the most amazing incense scent, the scent of burnt frankincense and candle smoke lingering in a spacious, dark, sacred building. The frankincense note in here is fantastic, I love the way it smells like it’s been smouldering gently (not charred though) and it smells smoky and mesmerising…and the candle smoke and a little hint of dusty orris make this even more atmospheric and mysterious. Despite the lack of a Snake Oil scent in here (on me), this is totally gorgeous from start to finish, this is another Snake I need to stockpile, and I can’t wait to see what age does to this beautiful fragrance. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Oh yeah! I want lots of this! If you like this, try: Haloa, Lycaon, Carfax Abbey, Resurrection of the Flesh, Tezcatlipoca, Xiuhtecuhtli, Greed, Penitence, Snake Oil

Temple Viper In the imp: mmm! Smells like Snake Oil (or even Charmer) with golden resins. Wet on skin: now the sweeter notes come out, the champaca and the sugar cane. I really hope the champaca doesn’t turn this to banana incense… Dry: mmm, this is good! It’s a very sweet incense blend, but the frankincense tempers that sweetness so that it doesn’t turn cloying. It smells exotic and golden, richly resinous, and the frankincense and opoponax are wonderful here, and they seem to prevent the champaca from becoming too much like overripe fruit. I can’t really smell as much Snake Oil now but I think it adds to the overall sweet incense feel of the scent. After a while: now the frankincense has moved out of the way and the champaca takes centre stage. but this isn’t the cloying, over-sweet banana blossom I feared. It is sweet and fruity but pleasantly so. Now the scent smells strongly like this year’s Khajuraho which I love! Only this time the sweet vanilla-honey has been replaced with sugar, and the other flowers have been replaced with resins. Fruity-floral incense goodness, I agree with Bagfish in that this is a mix of Khaj and Snake Oil, although I don’t smell too much SO yet. Then it smells like exotic incense with a pink candy like coating, which I love! Like a swirl of pink, terracotta, gold and deep maroon. At this point, I also detect a little of the Snake Oil underneath, the rich patchouli and vanilla. Then it becomes a lovely sugared champaca scent. Very pink, funnily enough, but very pretty as well, almost like sugary nag champa…only slight remnants of resins remain now. I can’t smell as much Snake Oil now either. The end scent is like sugared incense and pink flowers, light and sweet but also gently ashy and softly smoky, and more like nag champa than before. It also smells like lotus now, which is very nice…and I also get a slight hint of candle smoke. Verdict: this is a beautiful sweet incense scent, with aspects of both rich and resinous at the start of the scent, and an almost sugary drydown. I think the champaca note that Beth uses in these recent blends is much nicer and softer, and doesn’t turn to evil banana on me. This is another Snake Pit scent I adore. It reminds me of those sweet incense scents like Midnight on the Midway, Cairo and Khajuraho, a delightful mix of almost candy-sweet notes and deep resins. I love the just-dry stage, a wonderful mix of frankincense, opoponax and Snake Oil, but then the champaca comes out to play and adds a very pink sweetness, soft floral covered with sugar over a softer incense base...very pretty. However, this isn’t cutesy frilly pinkness, this is exotic and complex pinkness, like a pink version of good quality nag champa, there’s something smoky and mysterious behind the sugar. The Snake Oil in this plays hide and seek, sometimes showing up, at other times hiding behind the sugary champaca and soft incense. And the drydown, when remnants of sugar and flowers mingle with candle smoke, is lovely. I was worried that it would be cloying but thankfully it wasn’t-I love this! I think aging will make it even more fantastic. One to get a bottle or two of! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Definitely a bottle candidate. And a few more bottles for aging. If you like this, try: Khajuraho, Hellion, Snake Oil, Snake Charmer, Vaskakajja, Midnight on the Midway, Chintamani Dhupa

The Perfumed Garden 07 In the imp: the jasmine in here is much sharper than it was in last year’s. Wet on skin: sharper, biting jasmine over a fruity-incense base. Dry: damn, this jasmine is a pretty fierce little flower! And usually Moroccan jasmine is beautiful on me. The reason I adored last year’s PG was due to the softer jasmine note which at times reminded me of Lush Fairy Jasmine. The jasmine here is much sharper, almost viciously so, and more like the regular jasmine notes, or maybe the sambac…if it is sambac, it may calm down and become beautiful in five minutes. I smell the fruity notes underneath, but not as much of the incense as last year. After a while: eventually the jasmine loses it’s bite and I get a scent of jasmine and fruit slightly reminiscent of last year’s…but it’s not the same. The jasmine still has a bitterness to it that I’m not keen on (though this may fade with age). There’s none of the sandalwood and myrrh I got last year. And the jasmine doesn’t turn creamy and smooth at all…and it doesn’t remind me of Fairy Jasmine. There are moments when I think it will improve and turn smooth and creamy, but this jasmine seems to retain it’s bitter, almost wilted scent. Finally after many hours the sandalwood incense comes out, and the jasmine is more acceptable. Verdict: I loved the Perfumed Garden from last year. It was a beautiful smooth jasmine enhanced by bright fruit and warm incense. The jasmine in that version was fantastic on me-heady and sweet but soft and smooth, like jasmine flowers should smell, in fact it reminded me of Fairy Jasmine, both fresh and now aged, it is even nicer. The jas in here though…now that’s a different story. It hates me, pretty much. And I’m a little shocked since I usually love Moroccan jasmine (like the one in Eshe, and Urania) but in here it smells just like the one jasmine note that doesn’t agree with me-it smells sharp, harsh, biting, and acrid at first. It does lose its initial sharpness but I don’t like the bitter aspect of the jas that lingers in this scent from start to finish, it smells like dead jasmine flowers as opposed to fresh ones. I get hints of the incense background from last year but the jas overpowers it for most of the time here, and I don’t smell as much of the fruit either. I think this decant will have to go-I have enough PG 06 and the jasmine in this version doesn’t agree with me. (Actually, I now agree with what reenie212 says in her review-it does smell like nail polish remover!) Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No, I prefer last year’s. If you like this, try: Feu Follet, Eshe, Black Moon, Peitho, Nuit, Nyx, Hanging Gardens, Kanishta

Red Lantern 07 In the imp: creamy caramel with hints of flowers and currant. Wet on skin: this reminds me of the crème caramel note of Underpants with a huge hit of incense smoke now! Very nice! Dry: soft white floral incense with a sprinkling of sugar. This one has a less heavy caramel than last year’s, and is heavier on the floral notes, the opium seems more like poppy and I think the delphinium may be stronger. There’s also a little currant, some exotic spicy incense which reminds me of sandalwood, and a tiny bit of coconut as well. Oddly, it’s also a tiny bit soapy, but not in a bad way, it’s almost like a fresh linen note has crept into the scent. After a while: now it’s turned to soapy white floral incense. Why? Where is the wonderful caramelised amber tobacco opium spicy incense I got last year? Where is the soapy flowery scent coming from? Why am I getting washing powder here? This isn’t working as nicely on me as last year’s did when it was fresh…and that one’s become even better with age. A little bit of coconut pops out after some time but the scent isn’t losing it’s oddly soapy note. It does smell a bit nicer but not as nice as last year’s. The soapy scent does disappear though, and the coconut becomes the most dominant note at drydown, along with tobacco. It now reminds me of a drier version of Elegba with a touch of Port Royal. Verdict: I adored last year’s Red Lantern, and I love more now that it’s aged a little. This one is not as nice on me. There’s an odd soap note to this-maybe a floral note-which smells white and powdery and almost like washing powder mixed with sweet incense. The gorgeous opium incense and tobaccoare still there, along with a subtler caramel, but I’m not sure about the soapy note I’m picking up, I also don’t get as much amber in here either. After a while this does fade to leave a lovely coconut-tobacco-spice-caramel scent, still with a touch of clean floral to it. That’s my favourite part of the scent. I do like the way the caramel is more low-key in this version (my old RL is a little too heavy to wear sometimes) and if it weren’t for the soapiness, I’d get a bottle. Maybe this needs a little aging to get rid of that odd note, but I think I’ll pass this one on. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? It’s not bad but last year’s is better on me. If you like this, try: Tiresias, Arrival at the Sabbath, Sugar Skull, Arachnina, Opium Poppy, Elegba, Perversion

Arachnina In the imp: heady floral currants, tobacco and opium. Whoa, this is intense. Wet on skin: smoky white flowers and crisp fresh currant. Dry: mmm, this is quite nice! Very hypnotic, indeed. It’s very floral, probably the lilies, with a smoky touch from the tobacco flower and poppy. The currant is also very strong, an almost biting sharp dark fruity note which pervades the scent, whilst an earthy, dark patchouli note grounds it all. I can also make out the musks, which really just enhance the floral and fruity notes without smelling obvious. It also has a perfumey feel to it, dark and deep and grown up. After a while: oh no…now it seems that the lily note has turned on me. There’s one lily note, which I encountered in Prague, which turns rotten after a while on my skin. Turns out this lily is in here, and now it smells like rotting flowers over rotting fruit lurking under the layers of tobacco, musk and opium. Darn it, this scent was doing really well before it turned on me. The sad thing is that even though the lily note smells like it’s fermenting badly on me, the other notes are very nice-the currant smelling almost like a currant wine, the haze of poppy and tobacco, the depth added by the musks, it’s just one of those pesky lilies that prevents me from enjoying this. There are times when this odd scent disappears completely as well, leaving that smooth smoky floral which reminds me of cloth scented with rich tobacco and opium, along similar lines to Mum Moon. And the drydown is pretty, a pale white, cloth-like floral with a bit of currant-though there’s a slightly sweaty feel at times. Verdict: I’m so torn about this scent-there are aspects I love and aspects I’m really not digging. I really like the beginning stage, a rich, sensuous and heady scent of opium, sharp dark currant, and smooth floral notes, with a hint of tobacco flower winding through, with the musks binding the notes together. Very hypnotic and alluring, it feels a little sinister but also sexy, a scent that ensnares you with its deep, smoky scent. But after about an hour, maybe less, one note in here starts to turn against me. I think it’s one of the lily notes as I get a similar reaction in Prague, in that the floral scent in this scent begins to smell like it is rotting. Most lilies don’t do this on my skin, but one of them in here does. Almost like rotting flowers mixed with rotting fruit, it’s not dominant but it is noticeable enough to put me off this scent. No matter how hard the gorgeous musks, opium and tobacco smokes, and earthy patchouli try to make this scent gorgeous, this one problematic note does ruin this scent a little. The thing is this odd note isn’t always there-sometimes it is prominent, at other times it hides behind the darker notes. It’s a shame really because I like the better stages of this scent very much. But I think my decant will be passed on. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Not sure. If you like this, try: Red Lantern, Dragon’s Heart, Languor, Stardust, Prague, Opium Poppy, Chrysanthemum Moon, Urd

Tiresias In the imp: caramel! The caramel is the dominant note, reminiscent of Red Lantern and Mitzvah, but the tobacco makes it more like RL. Wet on skin: sweet spiced caramel, tobacco and cinnamon come out, as do the sandalwood and currant! Dry: oh, this is good! This is the lovechild of Arrival at the Sabbath and Red Lantern! The caramel has toned down now, letting the tart currant (now the strongest note) and spicy notes through, the delicious cinnamon and dry sandalwood. It is also highly reminiscent of Trick #2 with the berry-like currant, tobacco and patchouli, but sweetened with just the perfect amount of caramel. I don’t even smell the muguet, which is good as it often turns to soap. After a while: the caramel makes a return some time later. It is just like the caramel-sandalwood-patchouli combination in Arrival at the Sabbath, in that the caramel is less buttery and more treacle like, like the darkest brown sugar, and it also reminds me of Sugar Skull now. However, the raisin-like currant adds a nice edge and prevents the scent from veering into cloying territory. Then the currant makes a comeback and becomes dominant once more, with that warm and exotic sandalwood always in the background. The scent seems split into two distinct sides, sweet spiced caramel and dark tart currant, opposing yet united as one, not conflicting, but harmonising. So apt. The scent moves between caramel and currant until it finally decides to end as a scent of darkly spiced smoky treacle. Verdict: this is another wonderful caramel scent, rich, deep and tempting. Caramel is one of those notes which can overwhelm, or dominate but mingle nicely with other notes, or be very subtle. This fits into the ‘dominates but mingles nicely’ category in that it is dominant, but I can smell everything else around it, and this caramel isn’t the buttery stuff, but one made with the darkest brown sugar and a splash of treacle. There’s a nice contrast with the caramel and currant going on here…indeed, it seems the scent is double sided. Sweet, sugary and dusky caramel, soulful and syrupy, enrobed in spices and the barest hint of floral, contrasting with the equally dark but sharper, more confident and gutsy and upfront currant and tobacco, with patchouli and sandalwood uniting these two sides. How fitting for such a character! As with most caramel scents, there may be days when this is too heavy to wear, and this is more of a winter scent. But it’s one of the nicer caramel scents and has enough complexity to stop it becoming too foody. It’s a good Red Lantern substitute, and once my decant is used up I might get a bottle. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes! I might get a bottle-not now but definitely before he/she disappears. If you like this, try: Red Lantern, Arrival at the Sabbath and Homage to the Devil, Trick #2, Alone, Cockaigne, Sin, Sugar Skull

Night’s Pavilion 07 In the imp: this smells different from last year’s…this is a beautiful watery floral scent, with a hint of spice to it. Wet on skin: oh, this is beautiful, beautiful stuff. Soft, delicate waterlilies. Dry: wow, just wow. This is very different from last year’s, which was heavy on the osmanthus, musk and frankincense, this one’s all about the Nile Lily. I say that with certainty because this smells very similar to a very special oil I have-Egyptian blue lotus absolute, which apparently is also called ‘Nile Lily’. Expensive, rare, and hard to find, mine is diluted (and cheaper than the pure oil) so the scent of my oil is much fainter but this smells very similar to my absolute. The scent of that oil is a clear blue fresh floral, very hard to describe but it is similar to hyacinth and slightly smoky/spicy too, but overall it gives the impression of blueness and water without being typically aquatic. I do detect hints of osmanthus underneath which does seem to strengthen with time, maybe a little musk, but lily rules this scent…and I love it. After a while: eventually the osmanthus amps a bit, as this note tends to do, competing with the delicate lily as to which floral will be dominant…right now they seem to be on equal terms. Now the scent does resemble the 06 version, only with a little less frankincense and musk, and with a fruitier osmanthus note like the one in Ouija. But this scent is all about moonlit, dew covered flowers. The drydown is a graceful dance of lily and osmanthus, each note taking its turn to shine and both merging at times, and the white musk providing a soft, cool and smooth background for these ethereal blooms. Verdict: I was a big fan of NP last year, and this version may be even better than last year’s. There seems to be more of that beautiful lily note in here, that unique and rare waterlily scent which smells like the diluted Egyptian lotus absolute I have. The osmanthus also seems a little softer but comes out more at the end, it’s tangy, wet, almost fruity scent cooperating nicely with the lily. There’s less musk and frankincense but they do support the floral notes. This is a very elegant, cool, serene scent, like last year’s it is a very blue scent, of moonlight on dewy flowers and starry nights, it’s a ‘flowers of the night’ scent but it’s not heady or heavy, this is light, ethereal and enchanting. Very poetic and wistful, glittering and dreamlike, this is a favourite in my collection of ‘night’ scents. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Definitely. I got bottle of this version because I love this elusive lily note. If you like this, try: Dark Delicacies, Evening Star, Kindly Moon, Ouija, Nuit, Itaso Kansei, Black Moon

The Oblation In the imp: herbal blackberry and lavender, with a touch of honey. Wet on skin: sharp tangy blackberry with lavender. I really hope this isn’t the blackberry which turns to cat pee on me. Dry: this is very pretty, mainly warm herbal lavender and fresh blackberries still clinging to their brambles, with honey winding through. Very much a lavender dominated scent for now, it smells very dark and purple. I’m just a little worried about the blackberry note since this does smell very slightly like the one in Monster Bait Closet which does turn to cat pee on me at times…although it is a little sharper, less sugary. After a while: I’m now torn. This is a honeyed and herbal version of the Closet blackberry (can turn to kitty pee), mixed with sharper Bitter Moon one (which is gorgeous). For now it is doing the more pleasant reaction of ‘blackcurrant Ribena’ with added brambly greenness and delicious honey, but this blackberry does have the potential to smell like a territorial tomcat has sprayed on my arm. And then…darn it. It has now turned to cat pee. Bad kitty-I mean, bad blackberry! It smells like a feral feline has sprayed all over a bramble fringed with blackberries. Normally I adore honey but it seems that in this scent, this note is just enhancing the cat pee scent of the berry. It’s not outright disgusting, but it does smell disturbingly like what my garden smells like after the stray toms have invaded. The scent just remains a suspiciously catty blackberry scent until the end…it has promising fruity aspects, as well as hints of the bittersweet blackberry gorgeousness that I got from Bitter Moon, but the berry is too much for me in here. Verdict: this one was a sad disappointment. I was hoping for a gorgeous blackberry, like that of Bitter Moon, with lavender honey drizzled on top. There is a slight hint of Bitter Moon blackberry but there’s also a blackberry note to this highly reminiscent of Montresor and MB Closet…which have a reputation of turning to feline urine. And that’s exactly what happened here-the blackberry, whilst smelling bittersweet and fruity at times, at other times it was like a cat had peed all over the lavender in the garden. I didn’t get any carnation here, just ‘bad-kitty blackberry’ covered in sharp honey. I think I’m going to swap this one…I was hoping this would smell stirring and enchanting on me, but I don’t find anything romantic in smelling like a kitty had sprayed all over me. maybe this could be a hormone thing, and maybe I should try this with a scent locket…but I think this decant will be passed on. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Probably not. I do like smelling like blackberries, or even blackcurrant sweets, but not like tomcat territory marking fluid. If you like this, try: Montresor, Monster Bait Closet, Bewitched, Faiza, Bitter Moon, Glasgow

Fire Pig In the bottle: CITRUS! This is a fizzy, zingy explosion of orange that eclipses even Sol Invictus. Remember how Josey used to write Moxie in big orange letters? I think FIRE PIG deserves this now. Wet on skin: sharp, tangy citrus-orange and mandarin and kumquat-with a hint of sweetness from the floral notes. Dry on skin: whoa, what a firework of sparkling, vivacious scent! It's very, very, very citrus, lots of bittersweet and sharply effervescent fruits like orange and mandarin, along with a hint of delicious sweet lychee (oh lychee, how I love you…) and peach to smooth things out. I don't smell very much else apart from the citrus and other fruits and a few floral notes, but I like this. It's such a happy scent! At times it reminds me of TBS Tangerine scents, it really is that citrus-y. After a while: this is unusual in that the citrus lasts a long time! Usually citrus notes fade away after a few minutes but in here, the tangerine is still going strong, still adding it's fizzy, sunny, happy scent. I do smell more of the blossoms now, plum blossom and peach blossom, as well as a hint of fresh green bamboo and some peony as well. At this point it reminds me of the Asian moons but with a jolt of fruit. The plum blossom and peony really come out after a while, making this smell very much like Peony Moon, but brighter and with citrus and a very soft hint of lychee. The drydown is almost indistinguishable from Peony Moon on me, fruity Chinese flowers, delicate, graceful and fresh. This is a springtime-summer scent for sure. I don't get any dragon's blood here. After a few hours the plum blossom amps up and turns very fruity and sweet…like champaca this floral note can turn a little cloying and banana like at times but in here, like in Peony Moon, it doesn't thanks to the other notes keeping it in check. Verdict: wow! This is such a joyous, celebratory scent, but with an Asian twist to it-the perfect Chinese New Year scent. At first it is probably the most citrus-y BPAL scent I've encountered after Lustration and TAL Energy. Oranges and tangerines and other citrus fruits that just burst with vivid liveliness. The lovely lychee adds a welcome sweetness to these tangy notes. The citrus notes last for a remarkably long time, but when they eventually fade, out come the bamboo and the springy scents of blossoms and peonies. In fact, the drydown to this scent is very much like the Chinese moon scents, especially Peony Moon, there's a very similar scent of peony and plum blossom here. Thankfully the bamboo seems to prevent the plum blossom from sweetening too much. I would have loved more lychee at drydown, but apart from this I really love this smile-inducing fragrance. This scent really is one of optimism and happiness, there is nothing dark or deep here, just smiley citrus coupled with graceful springtime blooms. A scent that speaks of a wonderful outlook for the coming year, a fantastic 'wake up' scent, a great spring-summer scent, and perfect for any time I need cheering up. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? of course! If you like this, try: Aizen Myoo, Peony Moon, Tweedledee, Sol Invictus, Night Gaunt, Lustration, Holiday Moon, Budding Moon

Bilquis In the imp: very much like Queen of Sheba meets the Penitent Magdalen, with a sharp wet apple note. Wet on skin: nutty almond with crisp apple and a little lily. Dry on skin: as the almond recedes from it's cherry state it becomes more of a smoky toasted nut scent, like the almond in Asp Viper and Queen of Sheba. Underneath are the green floral and fruity notes, whilst the musk adds a soft fuzzy warmth at the base. This is a really unusual scent-warm honeyed almond with fresh flowers and apple and the greenness of fig leaf. The lily of the valley is surprisingly prominent but for now it isn't turning to soap. And I hope it doesn't do so at all. After a while: this is a very unusual mix of notes-contrasting themes of damp floral notes and greenery from the lily, apple and fig leaf, and the almost dusty dry warmth of ground almonds and smoky myrrh (think the Asp) and musk. It's like a more exotic version of the Penitent Magdalene, but also reminds me of Uruk's figgy green floral lushness. Then the scent's odd contrasts start to mellow out nicely as the scent sweetens, but also starts to gain a tart scent of rosy apple, with a little touch of golden honeycomb. It reminds me a little of Les Bijoux, but not as sweet. The toasted layer of almonds at the base give a soft dryness, along with musk, the effect is almost 'fuzzy'. But the best thing is that I'm still not getting any soap from lily of the valley, which is fantastic! And the scent really stabilises nicely after about 20 minutes of wear, where there's a very nice balance of all the notes…honeyed flowers and apple with a dry-and almost spicy-ground almond base reminiscent of soft desert sands. And then the scent settles into the nicest lily, a fresh white lily scent (still no soap!) and crisp apples resting on a golden sweet spicy myrrh-musk with a hint of honeycomb. This is really gorgeous now. Fresh and cool yet also dry and warm…and it is really growing on me. It sweetens and becomes even smoother and smoother over time, a soft and feminine floral honeyed musk. Verdict: at first, this was a highly unusual, contrasting and jumbled up scent with notes of almond and apple and flowers mixed up together. I liked it, but was a little worried that the notes would clash and that after this point, the scent could go either way-it either turns disastrous, or beautiful. Thank goodness the scent gradually turned to something truly magnificent. This is one of those scents that really grew on me, I was patient with it and let it evolve on my skin, and I'm glad I did. It brings to mind a white lily bouquet lying on golden sands, or an oasis in the desert. A core of fresh juicy apples and flowers surrounded by a warm blanket of dusty golden exotic musk and myrrh and almond. Really gorgeous, unique, exotically feminine and seductive. The best thing about this scent is that despite the fact that the lily of the valley is very prominent, it doesn't turn soapy like it usually does, in here it is so beautiful. I do prefer Queen of Sheba, but this is such a unique, complex and fascinating scent, I'm definitely keeping it…especially for the breathtaking drydown. I think it will grow on me the more I wear it. And it's my favourite lily of the valley scent so far. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! This is one of those scents I probably will love more with each wear. If you like this, try: Queen of Sheba, Penitent Magdalene, Seraglio, Asp Viper, Bastet, Uruk, Les Bijoux