yeahbutnobut

Lady Luck Blues In the bottle: a soft, sweet, fruity rose. Wet on skin: gorgeous honeyed rose lifted by peony and vanilla flower with fruity plum. Dry on skin: this is beautiful! It's a very gentle rose, with a touch of slightly sharp honey, sweetened by a deep tart-sweet plum note. The vanilla, tonka and benzoin may also be sweetening the scent up a bit, and I can also smell the iris and peony here and there. This is such a lovely scent-the rose takes the lead but it is cradled by sweet and fruity-floral notes. A very graceful and feminine scent. After a while: the rose note becomes a little drier and crisper, the honey note in here is almost like that of Osun, a real wildflower honey scent, slightly like honeycomb and rather tangy. This scent now reminds me of Jezebel meets Three Brides-the honeyed rose is reminiscent of Jezebel, but the rose-benzoin-vanilla flower combo is like that of Three Brides (without the amber and sandalwood). The plum adds a rich fruity fullness to the scent, and at this point it smells almost like a sugared plum, contrasting the sharpness of the honeyed dry rose scent. The scent becomes a lovely mix of sugared plum jam, dry rose petals and honey with a smooth tonka undertone. This is really lovely. And then the scent is a gorgeous sugar plum and sugared rose scent-gentler than Hope's sugared rose, it's like roses and plums drizzled with honey and sugar syrup. The drydown is what may actually be vanilla flower, a sweet, sweet floral note, with touches of plum and tonka and honey. Verdict: I love most of Beth's complex and luxurious rose-based scents, and this is another winner. Not as richly resinous or floral as most, this one has accents of sugary fruit and honey that I love. The rose is velvet-petalled, full and beautiful as usual, and it is glazed with a golden honey layer and surrounded by sugar plums-though not too sweet, because tonka and benzoin were adding sophisticated sweetness to the plum. the peony mingles with the rose and the scent is womanly and rich. there are times when the honey takes the lead, and other times when the sweet plum becomes the dominant note, and other times when the notes seem all equal. The different notes morph slowly and smoothly to show themselves off before the scent ends off on a sweet and gorgeous mix of benzoin-tonka-vanilla sweetness supporting honeyed rose and plum. This reminds me of Jezebel, but it's a lot nicer and a lot more subtle than Jezebel. I'm not sure if it’s a favourite among the rosy-complex-floral-orientals I have but I love it, and I think some of the notes will mature nicely with age. A definite keeper! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! I think this will age gorgeously as well. Definitely keeping one bottle, I'm not sure if I need two bottles, but this is going to grow on me, I think. If you like this, try: Rose Moon, Jezebel, Three Brides, Magdalene, The Empress, Osun, Hope, Dolce Stil Nuovo

Monster Bait: Bloody Mary In the bottle: mmm, smells like a fruity cake or pie-I can smell the buttery sugar coated crust, and a filling of berries and cherries! Delicious! Wet on skin: now I smell more of the cherry, which smells almost like baked cherries than fresh ones. Still very sugary as well. Dry on skin: mmm, this smells yummy! This smells like cherry pie! I smell cherry sauce-this is a much sweeter cherry than usual-not a sour cherry, with hints of currants and maybe even raspberry (yay, raspberry!), surrounded by warm pastry and topped with sugar! this is so wonderfully dessert-like, I want to eat myself. I'm amazed at how much I smell like a cherry tart right now. The cream…what cream? I can hardly smell it. I just smell fruits and sugary pastry. At times the cherry-sugar combination reminds me of lollipops, and I love that. After a while: the pastry note fades away leaving behind the sugared cherries and hints of other fruits-but cherry dominates. It now smells more like lollipops than it did before. Loads of sugar, almost tooth-achingly sweet (but still delicious) with cherries. This is what I was hoping Jailbait would be like-that turned medicinal and smelt like cherry cough syrup. This on the other hand smells just like sugared cherries-or more likely, cherry flavoured sugar. It's such a fun scent! The scent that remains after a few hours smells like I've spread sugary syrup or pink-coloured sugar crystals on my arm, or even rubbed a lollipop on my wrist, and the sugar has just crystallised on my skin. It's a pink and sugary scent, reminding me both of Treat #1 and Aunt Caroline's Joy Mojo, that sugary cheerful scent with a touch of fruit to it. There may even be a hint of sugar plum to it, as it reminds me of Midwinter's Eve as well. I also smell a lovely vanilla-cream note, this is a good cream. Verdict: this scent is so much fun, sugary and silly and full of smiles. At first, my favourite stage is when the scent reminds me of a cherry pie or tart, a gorgeous cherry-dominated red fruit and berry sauce surrounded by crumbly, lightly buttered and sugary pastry. Warm and baked and delicious, this smells so yummy. The drydown smells equally foody, just as edible but a lot sweeter…the scent turns from baked cherry tart to a cherry flavoured lollipop scent, lots and lots and lots of sugar with a sweet cherry flavour. Very sugary, almost enough to bring on the cavities, but the cherry note is a lot more realistic than most-not medicinal, not plastic-y. It's also a much sweeter cherry note. I was disappointed in Jailbait but this makes up for it. It smells really lickable and there's even a hint of creamy 'Underpants' vanilla at drydown-I really like the vanilla/sugary base of the Monster Baits. It's not my favourite of the recent Monster bunch-the high sugar content of this scent will be too much for some days, but I can't refuse such a fun fragrance for those days when I want to smell like a lollipop. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! Definitely keeping the bottle-don't need another as it is a bit too sugary-sticky sweet for everyday but perfect for those sugar cravings. If you like this, try: Jailbait, Aunt Caroline's Joy Mojo, Xanthe, Knave of Hearts, Midwinter's Eve, Monster Bait Closet, Montresor

13 (April 07) In the bottle: a herbal-spicy-floral chocolate scent. Non-foody chocolate. Wet on skin: mmm, now I smell camomile and sandalwood, something almost like grapefruit as well, and spices. Dry on skin: call me crazy, but I'm getting grapefruit and ginger in this scent! I have no idea why but there's a definite citrus tang to this chocolate scent like there was in the other 13s. The chocolate is the dominant note-bitter cocoa and a hint of creamy white choc, mixed with spices and herbs and fig. I think that sharp scent may be catnip, but I may be wrong. The cardamom is nice and strong though, as is the fig, whilst camomile adds a dry, golden, hay like scent. This is a very intriguing chocolate scent-not as foody as most, it's almost like a spicy hot chocolate drink with herbs added, like some kind of magic brew. After a while: oh, wow! Now it smells amazing! It reminds me of another BPAL, but I can't remember which one, but it's one of the spicy scents. I think it may have been a Chaos Theory? This smells like wonderful cardamom sprinkled with pepper with herbs and smooth camomile and sandalwood, it's not as chocolate-y now but there's still a trace of it. It makes me think of desert bazaars now-it's spicy and dry and hot and unbelievably exotic. Like the smell of spices and herbs wafting from the stalls, exotic smells and dry heat. It also reminds me of Indian spices-though not too much that it makes me smell like a curry. The heat of the spices does die down a little to leave an earthy, almost dirty (good dirty!) herbal-spicy scent with just a hint of creamy chocolate. It almost seems like there's something almost musky, honey like or mossy at the base as well. And now I think I've just realised the BPAL that this scent reminds me of…Great Sword of War. It has that same feel of hot spicy-herbal cocoa to it without as much musk. The cocoa gets stronger as the scent dries, and it's not a sweet chocolate, more like the darkest of dark chocolates, or pure cocoa powder. With that spicy aspect, it reminds me a little bit of Tezcaltipoca and Green and Black's Mayan Gold chocolate now. After a very long time, it definitely smells honeyed or beeswaxy now (where's that coming from?), and a bit mossy. It reminds me of a CD scent or two, maybe a cross between Wulric and Faiza? Verdict: I love the 13 scents, and this is another winner. Totally different from it's predecessors, this one is unusual and innovative, not your usual chocolate scent. This is like a hot chocolate drink mixed with exotic spices from faraway lands and distant bazaars, but it feels less like a cosy drink, and more like a potion of some kind. It's almost like a mysterious blend of healing herbs mixed with spices and added to cocoa to make the ultimate witches' brew. There's something really magical about this scent, it sparkles and crackles, spellbinding and enchanting. Something about this scent intrigues me and fascinates me. It seems to fit in more with the concept and the name of '13', hinting at superstition and lucky herbs and charms and magic, it feels powerful and almost like a ritual oil. The spices in here are fantastic, the cardamom especially, whilst camomile and sandalwood give the scent a golden dryness, and there's something honey or musk like that appears at the end. it's not a foody chocolate either. This is definitely something that would smell wonderful on cold winter days, thanks to it's cosy cocoa and warming spices, but I love the bewitching vibe I get from this. I'm glad I got two bottles of this and I can't wait to see what other interesting chocolate scents the next few Friday 13's bring us! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! I love the 13s so far and this one is another winner. If you like this, try: Great Sword of War, Tezcatipoca, Velvet, Wulric, 13 (original), 13 (Oct 06)

Taurus 07 In the bottle: a herbal-spicy rose and mint scent with violet. Wet on skin: minty thyme and rosy violets. It smells very herbal and fresh and flowery. Dry on skin: mint and thyme. This smells like the herb patch in a sunny spring garden on a warm day in May…much like today. It's mainly mint, thyme and violet now, a warm and green scent, almost traditional and demure thanks to the violet and rose but with a fresh lightness. I make out hints of apple blossom too. I do smell something almost woodsy grounding the scent-it is a very earthy floral, like flowers on wood-chip soil with herbs. Something about it also hints at gardenia, even though it doesn't have that sharpness to it. After a while: as the mint fades off and the thyme becomes a little more discreet, the rose shows off a little bit more, mixing with the violet. Now this reminds me of Ephemera or Ouija, maybe one of the old Victorian themed scents with rose and/or violet in it. A very traditional scent, I think. But it still has that freshness and that outdoorsy scent to it, it's not a dusty, stuffy violet-rose like some can be. And there's still that scent of dry earth or woods to it. The scent then turns to a dusty violet-rose powder with an almost old fashioned herbal potpourri, stored in a wooden box. Apple blossom is one of those notes that can be really pretty, like a floral-fruity scent, or smell of dry petals, and the blossom here smells dry. There's something to this strongly reminiscent of camomile-the daisy perhaps? I also smell some poppy, a wispy and dry mild opium scent. it becomes drier and more old-fashioned smelling as time passes, reminding me of a faded bouquet. Verdict: at first, I really like this. it's an earthy floral scent-the mint scent at the start is strange but not unpleasant, and then I get a lovely herbal rose with a posy of wild spring flowers resting on soil and damp woods and tree bark. It does seem apt for Taurus, it is earthy but also smells a little bit like the Venus oil, with it's rose and mint, only with a more complex herbal mix. The scent does turn a bit old fashioned over time though, as the violet takes over. Sometimes violet is lovely and can add a pleasant powdery and aged feel to a scent but sometimes it's too much and the scent smells musty and old, like a 'granny' perfume. sadly, the violet overtakes this scent and it becomes too old and faded and with a powdery aspect I'm not keen on. The rose note isn't as strong as hoped despite it's appearance at the start. I'll keep a decant because I have Mars in Taurus and this could be used for a purpose somehow, but I don't need a bottle. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? not sure. I like the first hour of wear but not so keen on the drydown. Will keep a decant. If you like this, try: Ephemera, Marie, Ouija, Despair, Lucy's Kiss

Poisoned Apple In the imp: crisp, wet, sweet red apple. No poison yet! Wet on skin: the apple note does that weird thing on my skin, turns to a kind of 'cider mousse'. Dry on skin: sharp, biting apple. This is a very tart apple, not as sweet as the scent was before it went on the skin. it is very much like Punkie Night or the Hesperides, pure apple, but the apple note is a bit odd on me-it turns to this kind of foamy cider scent, or like that 'appletise' drink, a very sharp and fizzy apple, but with an odd fermented feel to it, not the scent of a fresh, sweet red apple. I still don't smell the poisons, but the scent is becoming bitter and sour and sinister. After a while: still apple cider, even more cider like now as I smell it fermenting, ripening and becoming a little boozy. It is very similar to Punkie Night now, only with a spike of something green-herbal to it, probably the hemlock. There's a little bit of something faintly floral, maybe the oleander, but I don't get opium, which is odd because usually opium really stands out in a scent. I'm surprised at how long the apple sticks around, after about 2 hours, the scent is still predominantly apple (though it smells very fermented now) but there's not much in the way of opium or hemlock. The apple does smell 'dead' now, like it's crisp and sweet on the outside but with a feel of death on the inside, the flesh of the fruit has been poisoned. After a long time, the 'dead apple' still remains, but now the scent is more like a dried white flower (oleander?) with a hint of opium smoke and poppy petals, and a green, earthy touch of hemlock. Verdict: it's dawned on me that scents that are too heavy on the apple aren't going to work that well. I've had that suspicion since I tried Punkie Night, but a lot of scents that I love have apple in them (Les Bijoux, Bilquis, Samhain etc) but apple without enough complexity or depth means that the apple goes bizarre on me. and this happened here-it smelt like an odd mix of fizzy apple juice, cider and a weird 'foamy' scent which was fruity and maybe floral but not like apples, and then turns overripe or fermented. Having said that, this scent really does capture the idea of a poisoned apple perfectly. Smelling sweet and tempting in the imp, it then sharpens and has a tangy, almost acid tartness. And then the poisons start to appear…and the apple dies. The apple smells like it is dying, fermenting, a sweet rot, there's a definite feel of decay on the drydown of this scent. The opium is surprisingly quiet here, which was a surprise, but the poison notes subtly warp the apple into something sinister. It's not a scent I like to wear but it feels very appropriate for the concept. An apple that is fresh and appealing on the outside but rotting and deadly at it's core. Not my kind of perfume but a spot-on conceptual scent. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? no, I prefer the more complex apple scents. If you like this, try: Hesperides, Hemlock, Ladon, Verdandi, Punkie Night, Harvest Moon

The Agony of Heartache Purple sage, red patchouli, blackberry, lemon blossom, and lime rind. In the decant: sage-y blackberry, like Bitter Moon or Bewitched meets the Oblation. Has the potential to go either way. Wet on skin: oh no, this seems to be the blackberry note that turns to cat pee on me... Dry on skin: cat pee. That's pretty heartbreaking. The scent is predominantly blackberry, not the nice Bitter Moon one but a blackberry which doesn't like my skin. The scent is definitely reminiscent of Bitter Moon and Bewitched thanks to the sage, which is the same fuzzy warm sage from Corazon. The lime adds a sharp, crisp tartness and makes the blackberry note even more acidic, the lemon blossom is more delicate, almost like lemon fruit meets orange blossom. The patchouli adds a lot of depth and darkness, but sadly, this blackberry, bitter and sour, smells like blackcurrant fruit pastilles mixed with 'essence of feral tomcat'. After a while: bad kitty has sprayed all over the sage shrubs, it seems. The lime and lemon fade and the blackberry, with that dark patchouli undertone and sage, is dominant. Sure, it does smell fruity and juicy, very sharp like real blackberries usually are, but I still can't get over the way my skin chem warps this into feline urine. The sage comes out a little more, it's a balmy sage, almost spicy, very warm-definitely a desert sage note. But it doesn't detract from the 'bad kitty' blackberry which is still prowling the scent. The blackberry does eventually leave, with a soft smudge of incense-like sage lingering. I really like this sage stage. It smells like warm evening air scented with herbs and a bit of smoke. this is after a few hours of evil blackberry. Verdict: this is my least favourite of the A/E scents, and I knew from the start that the blackberry would turn on me. And turn on me, it did, oh boy. As soon as this hits my skin, it smells like a tomcat had just marked his territory on my wrist. And not by rubbing against me. This was like the Oblation, a mix of herbal blackberry which smelt less like a wild bramble bush growing into a herb garden, and more like some stray kitty had sprayed all over the herb patch. The sage note was lovely and warm and I really like the way it turns to incense and that 'warm summer's evening' scent after a few hours, but throughout most of the scent's duration, cat-pee blackberry rules over the scent. There are some blackberry notes I like, but some I don't, and this one is one I had to pass on to someone else. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? no. I love cats, but not smelling of their pee.

The Agony of Loss In the decant: woodsy-herbal-green and oddly fruity lavender. Wet on skin: mmm, this is interesting. It's now really woody and lavendery, but with a feel of incense. Dry on skin: this smells really nice. It actually reminds me of something from Lush, one of their lavender ballistics, it's a soft woodsy lavender incense scent with a hint of something floral, lemony and spicy to it-I have no idea why it's lemony-spicy or floral but there you go. The smoke of burning love letters isn't as apparent as I expected-far from it being a burning paper scent, it mingles with the fragrant sandalwood to make a lovely incense scent, whilst the cedar gently enhances the softly fragrant wood feel of the scent. To me this is less of a burning and bitter scent, and more like a wooden chest where old love letters are stored, fragranced with lavender sprigs and sandalwood chips. There's even a hint of something like a tropical white flower to this, like plumeria or something Hawaiian, as well as a soft greenness, like soft wet leaves, herbs or moss. After a while: this becomes even more beautiful with time. The lavender fades but the scent becomes brighter and softer, still woodsy but also more fruity and floral notes with a soothing backdrop of herbs and smoke. I get a feel of sunlight shining through leaves through mist. There's something very calming about this scent. I don't know why but this reminds me of a perfume or a room scent I remember smelling in France as a child, maybe it was a perfume or a lotion or a room freshener/scented candle or even the scent of something one of my aunts used to wear. All that I know is that it smells familiar. (according to the above review, it seems it's not just me who gets childhood memories from this scent!) The scent becomes softer, more floral, and even comforting, there's a hint of powder to it now, and it brings to mind a warm scented blanket. It feels reassuring. I think this would work as a sleep scent. Verdict: I was very surprised by this scent-I was expecting herbal, moody, woody, smoky and burnt, or maybe something forest-like. But I got something truly glorious-incense, gentle soothing lavender, and a glowing core of a sunny fruity-floral I can't identify. At first the lavender is strong, but it's not overwhelming, but a soft lavender with a gorgeous woody background. This sandalwood-cedar scent smells warm, dry and solid, a nice firm background for the herbs. But then I get a wonderful scent which is almost lemony, almost flowery, almost tropical and lush but not quite…is this lemony-herbal softness the armoise? Is this unidentified exotic floral the awapuhi? I don't know but I love it-something about it seems to jog a pleasant memory that I can't grasp, but it's a happy memory. It smells bright and calming. The burning love letters was another surprised-far from smelling like charred paper, it gave the whole scent an incense like aspect (especially with the sandalwood) which made it even more perfect. Far from being the melancholy, bitter, harsh scent I expected, this seems almost like a scent made to soothe feelings of loss, like a warm hug, it comforts and relaxes, this is one of those perfect calming fragrances that make the agonies in life a little easier to bear. Beautiful! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! So glad I won a bottle on Ebay!

The Ecstasy of True Love In the imp: patchouli and peach, like Imp, but with a little citrus too. Wet on skin: patchouli and peach, and a little more of a floral note, probably honeysuckle. Dry on skin: this is very pretty! It smells of peach, patchouli and honeysuckle with a hint of mandarin and frankincense, maybe some carnation too. It smells earthy and dark but with a fruity-floral brightness on top, which makes for an interesting contrast. The patchouli with fruit smells almost like that 'fruity autumn musk' scent I get in a lot of BPALs, come to think of it, there's usually patchouli in those, it is very nice and rich, and reminds me a little bit of the patchouli-plum/musk-plum combinations as well. After a while: the patchouli becomes a bit stronger, a little drier and reminds me of autumn leaves, earthy and crisp, but also with a burnt smokiness like incense or a hint of bonfire-though the frankincense may be what's making this a bit like incense. The fruity-floral of the peach and honeysuckle are still strong though, rich and plump and juicy smelling and resting on a base of autumn leaves. This really is an interesting scent blending summer and autumn together. The scent becomes rather musky as it dries, and oddly, I smell honey and figs on the drydown, like a mix of dried peaches and figs with honey and patchouli and autumnal musk. It's a much dirtier scent at this point, very earthy and deep, very much like Depraved, there's a slight sexual quality to it. It also reminds me of Lot and his Daughters without the lemon and heavy resins, or of Hellion, the peach seems almost like plum now…and the drydown after about six hours is patchouli-musk and honeyed figs and peach, like a darker version of Cupid Complaining to Venus. Verdict: this is a very pleasant fruity-patchouli scent, dark and deep, like a more complex version of Depraved or Imp. A lovely mix of wet, juicy and fruity peach blossom with darker patchouli, and floral notes of honeysuckle and warm carnation, to me this smelt like a very pretty mix of summery and autumnal notes, a floral-fruit scent with a grounded patchouli aspect. The scent became a little dirtier and muskier over time, with that lovely 'fruit-patchouli-musk' drydown becoming stronger and dominant as the flowers faded, it became more and more like Depraved. The most interesting stage was at the end when I started getting some musk, moss, honey and fig notes coming out, making this a very earthy, dirty scent, with a touch of something sexual to it and a hint of incense. Whilst Passion was a more sophisticated aspect of ecstasy, velvet and jewels and silk sheets and all, this is a more raw, natural, spontaneous expression of love, a quick naked rough and tumble outdoors, with that feel of 'fertility ritual' that Luperci had. I like this but I was hoping for more frankincense, and the scent was very similar to a few other BPAL scents with patchouli and a fruit note, which I do prefer. It's a great scent but I'm not as smitten by this scent as I thought I'd be. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? it's not bad, but it's not 'true love' either.

Lemongrass In the imp: lemongrass! That powerful, pungent citrus scent, it smells like lemon sherbets, this is a sweeter take on lemongrass. Wet on skin: now it smells just like lemongrass e.o. Dry on skin: powerful punchy lemongrass, pure and simple. Very much like my essential oil. That scent of lemons on steroids, intense and shrill, strongly reminiscent of Thai food and those lemon scented warm serviettes they serve after you've eaten at a Thai or Chinese restaurant. It does take over scents. No wonder this is the dominant note in Concentration, no wonder my teacher used to burn lemongrass oil in science lessons. If normal lemon scents are like sunshine, this is a supernova. Explosive and attention grabbing. I'd imagine mosquitoes would be terrified of this scent. After a while: it's still strong, it does turn a little bit 'gritty/dirty', a little greener, a little oily, more herbal and more bitter over time, but it is still a powerful citrus scent, still has that lemony kick to it. It becomes almost soapy at the end but not as much as verbena. Verdict: yup, this is pure lemongrass. Very much like my essential oil. It's a nuclear lemon scent, loudly lemony, pungent and intense, this yells through my nostrils with it's citrus-on-steroids scent, this stuff is incredibly potent and feels like like a lemon fisted slap in the face saying 'WAKE UP!', it knocks any fuzz that is clouding my brain out and makes me think of intense studying thanks to my physics teacher endorsing lemongrass as the ultimate scent to revise by. It is really overpowering but also invigorating as a scent. It's also sweeter than pure lemongrass e.o. and smells like sherbet. But a little too much for me. I like lemongrass in small amounts in my scents (love it in Shoggoth, Gennivre and a few others) and it works wonders as a scent for study, concentration and getting up early-and scaring off bugs. But for wearing, it's very strong stuff which I prefer in moderation in a blend-not as a single note perfume. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? no-I prefer it as a note in a scent. It's a very good quality lemongrass though.

Pineapple In the imp: pineapple, but a sweet, sugary, almost plastic, almost like pineapple sweets than real pineapple. I smell a whiff of those spongy banana marshmallowy things you get at the pick n' mix. Wet on skin: highly sugary pineapple flavoured sweets. Dry on skin: pineapple and banana flavoured sweets, this is incredibly sugary, almost effervescent, very youthful but a tad artificial. It reminds me of theme parks and funfairs, like one of those sweets you get there, it also smells like those generic 'Tropical' soft drinks, not really a true pineapple, in fact this smells like a mix of synthetic tropical fruit flavours found in kid's drinks and sweets. Definitely a sweet, childlike scent, bouncy and flashy, neon coloured. Oddly, there's a strange vetiver undertone to this as well. After a while: the slight sharpness that I detected at the beginning, like bubbles of soda, disappears. Now the scent is still just like those 'tropical' jelly sweets, with that marshmallow fluffy cheerfully synthetic scent, but still with a weird vetiver undertone, and also a drop of bitterly medicinal cough-syrup cherry flavouring. Not what I expected from pineapple. The drydown I get from this is a really bizarre 'candied vetiver' scent, like that almost cherry-syrup sugar drizzled over dark green murky vetiver with a touch of dragon's blood, or something along those lines because this reminds me of Serpent's Kiss now. Verdict: this one was a bit of a disappointment and a surprising one at that, since I love a lot of the lab's pineapple scents (Mi-Go, Shango). Considering how realistic and true most of the Lab's scents are, I was expecting fresh pineapple or pineapple juice, or even a coconut-less pina colada type scent, but what I got wasn't recognisably pineapple at all. My skin turned this scent into a weird mishmash of artificial 'tropical fruit' flavours like the things you find in those e-number filled kids' drinks or those jelly sweets, a strange mix of synthetic pineapple and banana and mango and some other indistinguishable fruits, with a spike of cherry cough syrup, and the most unusual thing of all, vetiver. Nothing like pineapple to me. it's odd since I definitely smell pineapple in scents which have this listed so I'm not sure why this note doesn't work on it's own. It's just a really weird, dissonant and artificial scent on me…I think I'll swap this off. Hopefully this reaction won't happen with any future pineapple scents that I try! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? no.

Squirting Cucumber In the imp: smells just like a cold, wet slice of freshly cut cucumber, with a hint of grassy greenery! Wet on skin: smells just like I'm making salad, like lettuces and cucumbers. Dry on skin: cucumber salad served out in the garden! This smells very accurately like a cucumber should, not one of those fake cucumber scents, it smells fresh and moist and green and cool, I smell the skin of the cucumber as well. There are hints of grass and other green notes, and it does remind me of salad greens as well. It smells like a salad at a picnic, sitting outside on a lawn, fresh green vegetables-cucumber and greens and lettuce. After a while: the cucumber doesn't lose it's cool but it doesn't smell as wet as before. Now it smells a bit creamier, but also a little chalky or waxy, like white petals and wet plaster. It's not a bad scent though-now it reminds me more of the scent of those cucumber moisturisers, like cucumber and greenery over a base reminiscent of moisturising cream, with a hint of chalk and waxy white flowers. Verdict: at first this was the truest cucumber scent ever. It was pure single note cucumber. Right down to the skin, the greenish scent of cutting a cucumber for a salad, maybe with hints of greens and lettuce, but mainly cucumber. Wet, cool, fresh and juicy, green and mouth-watering, this smells just like eating salad on the lawn on a summer's day. A salad without dressing, thankfully (though I am tempted to layer this with a lemony-herbal scent to simulate non-vinegary dressing). I like this stage but it becomes a more 'cucumber lotion' scent as it dries, reminding me less of fresh cucumbers and more of those moisturisers with cucumber fragrances, right down to the odd waxy-chalky scent I get with those lotions-it could be a floral note. It's still pretty and fresh but not as wet, and a little more perfumey at this point. I do like the fresh stage better, but I think I prefer cucumber as a component in a complex scent and not an almost single note (this is pretty much Cucumber SN on me) as it smells a little too much like salad/yoghurt-less raita dip to me. However I think it will make a lovely scent to layer with or add to lotion bases for summer, as it smells so cool and watery and perfect for hot weather, and I love the way cucumber smells wet without smelling 'aquatic'. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? it's remarkably true for a cucumber scent, but I prefer cuke as a scent component in more complex blends. This will make a lovely scent for an after-sun lotion...it'll be perfect as an addition to aloe vera gel. If you like this, try: Blue Moon, Black Moon, Nuclear Winter, Tulzscha

Voodoo Lily In the imp: a dark, slightly medicinal-boozy, spiced lily. the spices are reminiscent of the 'voodoo spices' from the voodoo blends and possibly the TALs too. Wet on skin: hmm, interesting. I smell grapefruit in here (wtf? I got grapefruit in 13 '07 as well…maybe one of those voodoo spices smells like it) as well as spicy, exotic lilies. Dry on skin: mmm, this one's intriguing. I have a cold so my review may not be reliable, and I seem to be getting hints of medicinal 'throat pastille' fruit notes, like mentholated blackcurrant. But this does fade. I smell spicy grapefruit and creamy floral notes…in fact, this smells just like 13 (April 07) with the chocolate/cocoa notes replaced by lilies! It's that same mix of hot, magical spices, the same grapefruit-like tang (I wonder if that's caused by grains of paradise?), the same dry, exotic feel, but less sweet and chocolaty, and more floral. I think there's definitely some cardamom in here as well. After a while: the hints of 13 seem to fade away and oddly, the scent becomes more fruity. It still has the cardamom-like peppery spice, but it's not turning into that wonderful 'desert bazaar' scent I got in 13, there's something almost lemony in this scent but it's a medicinal lemon/berry which reminds me of Strepsils or Lemsip. Of course, that could just be my cold influencing things but it's a little bit bitter smelling now. I also smell more of the lily, which reminds me of Black Lily but not as rich or sweet. it has the same cold, metallic feel that fresh BL has (aged BL is richer and more floral). And I think I smell something underneath that I've noticed in a lot of voodoo-linked scents…vetiver. The scent becomes a really weird medicinal fruity-floral, reminiscent of cough syrup and sore throat remedies, with a greenish-herbal scent underneath which feels almost mossy but not quite, it makes me think of the green scum found on ponds. I'm sure there's vetiver here as well. The spices are gone now. This smells strange on me, almost like dish soap meets flowers. The drydown gains a bit more of a pleasant flowery edge but it still smells odd. But then it fades away fast. Hardly anything is left after a few hours. Maybe there isn't vetiver in here-usually vetiver lasts for an eternity on me…unless it's a lighter vetiver. Verdict: this one was bizarre on me. Ok, my nose isn't working properly so that might be why, but I don't think I like this much. At first I thought that the name really fitted the scent, as it was lily mixed with spices that I've encountered in voodoo themed scents or ritual blends. It felt charged and potent and full of magickal spices. At one point, hot, bitter and grapefruit like spices and herbs surrounded the lily in a sparkling haze of spellbinding fragrance…I thought this was the lovechild of 13 and Black Lily. It seemed really promising…but then it turned into a very strange, bitter medicinal scent. It reminded me of a sort throat remedy or a Lemsip, that odd menthol blackcurrant and lemon scent. The floral note, still reminiscent of Black Lily, was there but being overshadowed by these medicinal fruit like notes, and the spices that came before had gone. The drydown reminded me of soft floral perfume with washing up liquid. Not my thing I'm afraid. It had potential but my skin chemistry messed it up. I think I'll pass this one on-Black Lily (aged) is my favourite lily scent so far. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? no. If you like this, try: Black Lily, Cobra Lily, 13 (Apr 07), #20 Love Oil

I completely forgot that Paris was being banged up until I saw today's wonderfully unexpected update. I think it is fantastic, myself. I love the way that Beth is doing something new with fragrance...parody by perfume, satire by scent. I've always admired the way Beth can excel with both her serious and intellectual fragrances, and her light-hearted, sillier scents. I also love the way that Beth appears to be taking the piss out of the whole 'celebrity perfume' thing as well (among other things-most notably, the farce that is Paris herself). I've never been into celebrity scents and I just get fed up when every tabloid-hogger and reality TV star releases their own brand of cat piss perfume with a pretentious name and a stinky scent. I think Privilege is the closest I'll ever get to owning a 'celebrity scent'. It's got a pretty name too which I don't need to associate with that vacuous attention seeking airheaded twit when I wear it (despite this being the scent description). And it's got some winning notes-tiare, rose, lemon blossoms, armoise, linden and vanilla? I think it will smell perfumey, but in the best way possible. Pruno on the other hand...with a description of 'toilets', 'droppings' and 'ketchup', I honestly thought that wasn't a real scent for sale! But it is...and I'm getting a decant just to see how Beth turns that into a wearable scent! I'm wondering if it will be a joke scent with a foul fragrance or if it will be wearable...from Beth's comments it may be the latter. And of course, Beth's an alchemist, it seems she's highly able to turn any smell that should smell like crap into gold But I do have a viable skin-chem reason not to get it: scents that are much too dominant on the apple turn bizarre on me, and it sounds almost Punkie Night-ish, wasn't keen on PN. But major kudos for Beth updating with these hilarious scents and donating the money to a good cause. I had to order some Paris to go with it-I've been meaning to buy a bottle of Paris, now I have an excuse

Brown Jenkins In the imp: oh, frankincense! This smells just like Midnight Mass, which I love. Wet on skin: golden, heavy resins, rich and church-like. Very much like MM or All Souls. I get a hint of powdery lightness behind it. Dry on skin: heavy golden frankincense and myrrh, gorgeous incense notes, with a touch of light sandalwood and coconut at the back. It's incredibly subtle in the face of the intense resins, but it's there. a slight, soft, sweet lightness. This is very much like All Souls now, but without the cake and currant foodiness but with something soft and sweetly powdery at the back. After a while: the incense is still there but now it has become a little quieter. I can smell the other notes at this point, a gentle dry coconut-very different to the usual coconut, more like a coconut powder and certainly not like suntan lotion. There's a beautiful rich sandalwood and also a warm furry musk, very much like the fuzzy musks in the other animal-themed scents. It's the sort of scent to snuggle up to, but with a hint of something sacred about it. The musk note seems to add a wonderful smoothness, a gentle feel of warm fur, and at times it is almost creamy. However, there's still that dusty coconut-sandalwood scent and the lingering remains of the golden incense in here, only with a little more musk. It's also a little sweeter now. The scent does become a bit faint after about 2-3 hours but it seems to be melding with my skin scent in the same way that Western Diamondback did, in that it's a soft skin musk with spicy sandalwood accent to it. It also smells a little bit sweet, like a light coating of fine sugar, because of the coconut. The very end drydown is a very faint but lovely sandalwood incense with a hint of light musk, like the ashes of burnt incense, dusty and faded. Verdict: I love incense blends and this is another gorgeous take on the theme. At first it's a huge smack of incense, frankincense and myrrh and resinous goodness. But I was wondering where the coconut and sandalwood had got to, so heavy was this cloak of incense. But it's not long before the other notes-the coconut, sandalwood and musk-come out to add a soft, almost fur-like scent to the incense, a dusty and dry but comforting scent. It's a gorgeous coconut note-not too husky or 'scratchy' as I expected, and nowhere near 'suntan lotion' either. The disadvantage is that this scent seems to burrow into my skin like a little rodent, the scent seems to become faint. It still smells gorgeous but has hardly any throw, just a hint of dusty incense and coconut near my skin. But at one point, it seems to give off a wonderful skin-scent of soft woodsy musk with a bit of resinous spice to it, a bit like Western Diamondback or Coyote with added incense, or a non-earthy Death Cap. This is another gorgeous and unusual take on the incense theme, and I adore Beth's incense blends so this is another one I love, and I have a feeling that a little bit of age will work wonders for this scent and make it even stronger and richer. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! I might get a bottle some day. If you like this, try: Penitence, Midnight Mass, All Souls, Death Cap, Western Diamondback, Carceri D'Invenzione

Devil's Claw In the imp: VETIVER OF DOOM. Nothing more. Ok, maybe a hint of pepper, but mainly Evil V. Wet on skin: it's still VETIVER but now it's a little sweeter. Dry on skin: it's pretty much vetiver-dominated, this scent. it's not bad though-not as oppressive as Malediction but along similar lines. I smell different vetivers here-a heavy one and a nutty one, with a soft, almost chewy sweetness to it. Very much like the Music of Erich Zahn, this scent brings to mind exotic chewy sweets, in here it smells like spicy caramel mixed with and pistachios and walnuts, and also a hint of cocoa, it reminds me of the vetiver in Horn of Plenty. I also smell smoke here, a tobacco smoke scent lingering over the nutty sweet vetiver…but this tobacco isn't the crisp, dry, woodsy tobacco I usually encounter in BPAL and which I enjoy, this smells more like…cigarettes. Though oddly, I quite like this even though I normally hate the smell of cigarettes. This smells almost hookah like to me. I also smell incense, dry and smouldering, this is a dark incense blend…maybe with some opium too? And also some damp earth, possibly patchouli too. But all with that sinister undertone of heavy vetiver. After a while: this gets smokier and smokier, more and more like tobacco…in fact it now reminds me more of cigar smoke now. Not the unlit cigar scent I get in scents like Ogun, this is definitely smoke, but darker and richer, more sophisticated than mere cigarettes. vetiver still dominates though, of course, and now it has turned ashy and burnt smelling, enhancing the tobacco note, and there's a slight hint of damp leaves and dirt (like Samhainophobia), tar and metal to this vetiver now. the drydown after a few hours is pure dark heavy vetiver, the kind that resists showering, with a slight hint of burnt rubber that I'm not crazy about. Verdict: this is very, very heavy on the vetiver, but it's a little bit more interesting than Malediction (which was almost Vetiver SN on me). There are some interesting aspects of smoky and sweet that wind through the gritty ashen vetiver, scents like tobacco and maybe some incense. it seems that tobacco is the second dominant note here, at times it smells like cigarettes but then it matures into cigars. There's also a chocolaty sweetness to the vetiver which is quite nice, darkly sweet and exotic chocolate incense. there are some nice earthy aspects to it too, as well as possibly some opium and patchouli. But ultimately, the vetiver is much too strong for my likings. Heavy and sombre vetiver, definitely a 'smoky brown' scent, one of those vetiver scents that sticks around for almost an eternity. It's interesting and not a bad smell, but not my thing. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? not really. If you like this, try: Music of Erich Zahn, the Great He Goat, Malediction, Saturnalia, Brimstone, Djinn, Samhainophobia

I am so glad my exams are over! No more revision to burden me, I can now do things like read lots of non-study books, get back to doing arty things like drawing, sketching, and maybe even painting. I have plans to get boxes on Ebay for my BPAL (my collection has got to the stage where shoeboxes-yes, shoeboxes-are being used to store bottles) and to paint them. The Thunder Moon update was the first in a long time where almost every scent had 'big dealbreaker notes', ie ones that could turn the blends nasty on me. Things like ozone, sea notes, sweet pea, thunderbolts and lightning, very very frightening. First time that I've not ordered directly from the Lab for the full moon. I have a feeling the next moon will be much better, and maybe will bring lots more scents-CD and Gaiman stuff? It's funny how Cancer brought about lots of aquatic scents, lots of water and rain and dewy floral notes. Just like how Taurus had cow/bull themed scents (Minotaur and Milk Moon). Hmm. Maybe Leo will bring fiery, spicy, regal and sunny scents, maybe cat-themed scents (I want KITTIES!!!), which are much more up my alley. Maybe a therianthrope which is feline, or African, or Egyptian? (Sekhmet would rock, but the therianthrope scents tend to not to be deities.) I have no Leo in my chart but I have a gut feeling it will be wonderful-I wonder if Leo will be packed with amber? (thinking of the Lion here) and I wonder what the next moon will be? I'm going to the uni's summer do tonight. I've been having a dilemma over which BPAL to wear...Blue Moon, Midnight on the Midway, or Snake Charmer? I chose those three because 1) it's the full moon 2) there's a funfair at the summer ball which will be open all night, so it really will be 'midnight on the midway' and 3) Snake Charmer is my all purpose special occasion/empowering/on-the-pull/sexy/exotic scent. I chose Snake Charmer in the end. For the first time in ages, I'm in the mood to pull! And it may sound silly but my choice of perfume does affect my mood and SC is one of those scents which makes me less introverted. I'm in the mood to have some fun, let my hair down, party hard. So hopefully Snake Charmer will work like a charm.

Kataniya In the imp: a floral scent with a sharp cologne like note to it, maybe citrus or orange blossom. It is a little metallic, but very perfumey. Wet on skin: a slightly spicy clear ‘sporty perfume’ scent, this is like a feminine Bloody Sword. Dry: interesting! This is a very unusual scent indeed, but also oddly familiar-it has a feel of those fresh perfumes, or sport deodorants, but this scent is a lot more complex. It has a peppery, crackling ozone scent to it very similar to Lightning or Tempest, but also reminds me strongly of the steel note in the Bloody Sword. There’s something very reminiscent of orange blossom in here-one of the floral notes perhaps? It also reminds me of the spicy metal of the Cracked Bell, but without the musk and incense and rich dark notes-this scent is light and fresh. And like other electric scents, it smells a little bit like dryer sheets, but the floral notes make this a little more acceptable. After a while: ack! The ‘electricity’ note in here doesn’t like me much. Now this does the same thing as the thunderstorm scents-it smells like electrified drier sheets, or tumble-dried clean clothes, covered in static, next to a photocopier! That ‘office ozone’ scent that I dislike so much, it smells biting and sharp in ways I don’t like. It actually smells almost identical to Lightning now, with that same ‘sporty perfume’ scent I got from Lightning, although this is a little bit more like the Bloody Sword’s metal and Lightning’s ozone. It does get a little more floral on drydown though, a white floral scent with that gritty, crackling ozone bite to it. It smells like Tempest now, with a hint of Niflheim. There may be narcissus and orange blossom in here. The drydown is strangely fascinating…it’s still floral and packed with ozone and metal, but it’s regaining the cologne/perfumey edge it had originally…but it’s also almost smoky as well, a bit salty, or a little musky/mossy? Do I even detect ambergris? It’s complex, that’s for sure. Verdict: I really wanted to like this scent because the concept of the clockwork woman was so cool. but sadly, anything that even suggests electricity or lightning turns nasty on my skin (with the exception of the 'voltaic ozone' in Lurid) and this was no exception. And most metallic notes, evocative as they sound, turn to 'sporty cologne' on my skin. The floral notes were very pretty, but the electric ozone did like the thunderstorm scents and turned to the dreaded 'electrified tumble-dried clothes next to a bunch of electrical appliances' scent. I don't like that reaction at all-it's ozone, but a little too accurate for me. And with the metal doing the same thing as the Bloody Sword's steel note did-turning to generic perfume-this is definitely not my kind of scent. the flowery notes do something interesting at the end which make the scent a little more tolerable, but overall I just don't do the electric scents. the scent does fit with the harsh, metallic and cold character of the clockwork woman herself. I just wish it worked better on my skin, so I've passed the decant on to someone who'll appreciate her better. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No. If you like this, try: the Bloody Sword, Lightning, Tempest, Pool of Tears, Niflheim

Thalassa In the imp: a sweet-salty floral aquatic. Very pretty…I hope this doesn’t turn to soap. Wet on skin: a warm, seaweedy yet slightly soapy-floral aquatic. Dry: mmm, this is not bad! It is slightly soapy, there’s definitely a feel of clean laundry to this scent, but it’s more along the lines of Dirty and Toxin, ‘clean-ozone’ scents which I like. It’s a very pretty, soft scent with a definite marine salty-seaweed scent to it, but a nice seaweed scent, more like warm tropical waters. The sea spray note is very much like the ones in F5 and Jolly Roger (ie it smells a bit like salty washing powder), but in here it’s mixed with a lovely soft floral note, no doubt the jasmine. I don’t smell any almond in here at all, which is odd considering that almond usually is very prominent in the wet stage. The frankincense gives a beautiful golden warmth to the scent. To me this scent conjures up the colours of light coral pink and aquamarine. After a while: the scent’s initial salty-seaweed tang does calm a little, and the scent remaining is a very pleasant clean, warm linen scent. Very much like Dirty, with that fruity-floral salty ozone scent to it, but warmer. It makes me think of a light pink-lilac coloured cloth in the sun…in this case, a beach mat. This is the kind of ‘clean laundry’ scent that I like, in that it reminds me of fresh washed clothes but not of washing powder itself. But the sea air adds a scent to it which strongly reminds me of summer holidays…and this makes it extremely relaxing as a scent, it makes me feel like I’m in Greece, on the beach, away from it all. I think it’s that ‘summer beach’ scent that makes this so nice for me. The sea spray does get stronger over time, developing more ozone like tones. I think the frankincense adds a hint of smoke to it as well, and the jasmine here is beautiful. It smells almost spicy at times and I smell a dryness to it, it makes me think of a laundered sarong, sand sticking to floral scented sun lotion and hints of a sea breeze. And then it sweetens so nicely after a few hours. It’s a gorgeous jasmine incense sort of scent now, or like a high quality jasmine scent sprayed onto linen, with that wonderful frankincense note really showing now. And there's a little touch of fabulous amber/vanilla sweetness from benzoin (I swear, it’s the same benzoin from Jacob’s Ladder *swoon*)…with a sea breeze wafting over it all. I never thought sweet resins, flowers and marine notes would work together but they work amazingly together here. Verdict: I haven't fallen for a sea themed scent for a long time until I tried this. a lot of BPAL marine notes have been going soapy or detergent like as of late-this one does this, to an extent, but I find it very acceptable in this scent. It smells like Dirty (a laundry scent I do like) on the beach, the scent of cleanly washed beach towels draped on the sand with a hint of warm sea breezes. The jasmine is the night blooming variety that I love, and it mixes beautifully with the clean marine ozone. this scent just makes me think of summer holidays and that's enough to make me love this scent…but then I smelt the drydown after a few hours. That's when the resins do their thing. I was wondering how frankincense and benzoin would work with sea spray, and they work surprisingly well. The scent still smells of the beach, but now with a wonderful resin-amber sweetness to it-very much like Jacob's Ladder…I love the benzoin in here! I couldn't stop huffing my wrist at this point. That clinched it-I had to get a bottle of this beautiful mermaid scent, and now this one is set to be a staple in my collection of scents for summer. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes! I love the way the jasmine bonds with the clean sea notes, and the drydown is so gorgeous. If you like this, try: Dirty, Jolly Roger, Port Royal, F5, Olokun, Perfumed Garden, Jacob's Ladder

Milk Moon 07 In the bottle: pina colada! No, really! It does smell like creamy pineapples. Or creamy grapes and pomegranates? Wet on skin: honeyed tropical fruit custard! Dry on skin: oh, I like this. Much more than I expected to. At first sniff it is pina colada, but when I sniff deeper, I can pick out tart pomegranates mainly, and white wine grapes, and maybe a softer base of fig too…and some dates. There's even a hint of something floral to it, reminding me of a grown up Chaste Moon. All of these surrounded by a honey custard. It is milky, but not sickening. And the sharpness I get in this scent is a fruity sharpness (which I can tolerate) and not a rancid yoghurt one. After a while: after the initial pomegranate scent fades off, now the honeyed milk starts to show up. Still not turning rancid on me, which is good. It really does remind me of custard, and though I don't like eating it, I like the smell. There's even a hint of coconut sweetness to it, reminding me of Obatala. It makes me think of a tropical dessert. I still smell tangy fruits all around. After a while the fig and date come out a little more and I really love the creamy fig-date-honey scent at this stage. It's not as coconutty as Obatala but it has a very similar feel. It also reminds me of the Star. At other times I smell pomegranates again, and then more cream, and then more dates, more grapes…it seems to morph slowly and gracefully through the fruits and the milk and honey so every note gets a chance to shine. Eventually this dries to a very comforting mix of fruits and milk and honey-very smooth, all blended together, nothing sticks out and it isn't sharp at all now, just creamy and soft. Like an exotic fruit smoothie or milkshake. Almost like the creaminess of Snow White but not cold or marshmallow like. Holy cow (no pun intended!), this is wonderful. Verdict: I was so worried that I would hate this. I love the light-milk scents (Alice, Dana O'Shee etc) I disliked the previous Milk Moon and the reviews mentioning sour milk and baby vomit scared me. But thankfully, this is truly gorgeous, and is one of the few heavy-milk scents that I can pull off. It smells like milk and honey poured over a pile of fruits-though sometimes there's an illusion of pineapple, at other times the fruits really do smell like what they should be-grapes, poms, figs and dates. It really is ambrosia! Milkshake of the gods indeed…with a rich creamy custard feel to it at times and even hints of what could be coconut. It is very rich but it is also light and summery thanks to the fruits. The drydown is very soothing creamy sweetness which is like a blanket of gentle milky comforting fruits. And how can I not love something with Hathor on the label? It almost seems like this scent is a ritual offering to her (although it also has a biblical theme…but to me it seems to work both ways), and I also agree that this is the perfect fertile and fruitfully feminine contrast to the heavy, brooding, dark Minotaur. I am so glad I bought two bottles of this, and I'm getting another one or two off the forum. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Definitely! I love this MM formulation, it is the BPAL bitty I've been dreaming of! If you like this, try: Obatala, White Rabbit, Dana O'Shee, Alice, The Star, Strangler Fig, Hetairae, Milk Moon 05

Minotaur In the bottle: ohhh, it's like Schwarzer Mond meets Jacob's Ladder, with added black musk. mmm. Wet on skin: ohh, oh wow, spicy resinous dark musk! Dry on skin: wow. Deep, rich, dark, mysterious and warm. Dark sweet resins and dark musk. this is very much like Schwarzer, but without the patchouli and with a sleek black musk to it. there's also a hint of something glimmering and golden to it, reminiscent of Jacob's Ladder, but with a darker undertone. The myrrh in here reminds me of Priala, in that it's a little bit spicy (though not like cinnamon) and reminds me of opopanax, it's a sweet myrrh. It pulls you in, luring you into the darkness. It also feels very ancient, like it could be a sacred incense blend burnt in one of the Minoan temples. After a while: oh, this is still good. Now it starts to remind me a little bit of the Ecstasy of Passion, there's a hint of something perfumey to it (in a good way), probably thanks to the galbanum. Almost regal, in fact. Now it smells a little bit more like a glittering layer of gold over a rich, pulsing, slightly feral but warmly sweet musk base, a contrast of light and shadow. It makes me think of a dark labyrinth, where the only light to guide you through is a small lamp lending a golden tint to the shadowy depths, but you feel something, a presence, lurking round the corner. It feels powerful but not threatening. The scent ends off beautifully as a warm black musk, not as sweet or oily as the usual black musks, but with a crumbly topping of loose resins, a mix of golden resins and dark ones smouldering gently, heavy and brooding but civilised as well. It reminds me of Schwarzer without the patchouli or strong amber. As it dries even more, the myrrh becomes the strongest note, and what a fabulous myrrh note this is! Verdict: the myth of the Minotaur was one of the first I learnt about as a kid, and the Minoan civilisation has fascinated me for a long time, even more so when I visited Knossos for real. So I'm really glad that not only does this work on me, but it is so wonderful that I want to hoard lots of it. It is the lovechild of Schwarzer Mond and Jacob's Ladder with hints of other black musk and myrrh blends to it, a masterpiece in resins and musk. It feels strong and has a real presence to it, a potent scent that feels like it should be experienced, meditated on, revered. More like a scent of a virile and mighty bull god, the kind that would have been worshipped in the temples of ancient Crete, with an offering of incense, than a frightening mythical bull-man monster (though despite it's hints at being masculine, this is very unisex). It is incredibly dark, not dirty but definitely chthonic, but with a sheen of gold to it. It is dominated by a marvellous musk note, powerful yet dignified, not as syrupy as some black musk notes can be, and a sweet and sticky and rich myrrh, with the other resins adding a touch of light to it. this is indeed a resin lovers dream, though totally different to the usual frankincense and myrrh blends, this feels more occult and mysterious. Like the labyrinth where the Minotaur dwells, it is a scent that one can get lost in. Beth does her resinous/musky scents so well, they are always so strong and profound and well structured, and this is going to age magnificently, I can't see what happens to this over time. Magnificent. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes! Just imagine what a bit of age will do to this scent! Glad I have two more bottles on the way! If you like this, try: Jacob's Ladder, Priala, Khandita, Hecate, Black Phoenix, Lycaon, Schwarzer Mond, Ecstasy of Passion

I had a Maths Techniques exam yesterday, which was a bitch-and a resit. Half the group failed last year, me included, so I really hope I passed this time. What uni do you study at? I'm at Hertfordshire. We have our own observatory

You do Astrophysics? So do I! Funny that there should be two UK astrophysics students who are madly into BPAL here...I think ellemir is another one, she used to study astrophysics as well. And I do feel for lil' Pluto. In fact, I even drew up a little comic about the solar system planets being invited to an exclusive party and Pluto wasn't allowed in because he was no longer on the VIP (very important planets) list! 'Your name's not down, you're not coming in!' I also portrayed Earth as being menopausal and having hot flushes (what we call global warming!) maybe I should put it online some day!

This is a great post, and a great way of thinking about orders and economising and organising for BPAL ordering. I too will not be put off my purchases-I will partake in group orders and US CPs (maybe will-call ones?) but that won't stop me buying myself, I still am a Lunacy lover and will continue getting those, but they will probably come with lots of other bottles instead of just two others. And yes, I too am a student so I'm in the same boat as you, money-wise!

Monster Bait: Tokyo Stomp In the bottle: MINT FUDGE!!! I had a feeling this would smell like my favourite mint fudge and I was right. Buttery vanilla sugar (not as buttery as Snowblind), lots of peppermint, and a touch of chocolate. I thought Green Tree Viper was fudgy but the resemblance here is much stronger. Wet on skin: even more mint fudge! A chocolatey note starts to rise up and it becomes a little bit more sugary and crumbly. Dry on skin: now it smells more like mint fudge and biscuits! Mmm, this is good. It reminds me of the biscuity/cake and cocoa base of Monster Bait Underbed, but with a hint of Spooky. I swear there's even a touch of coconut to it as well, it smells a lot drier now, and quite crisp and cool, though not as much as Lick It, this is a bit foodier. It also reminds me of Snow White (yes!), actually, there's that same creamy coolness. It still has that delicious fudge scent to it…in fact I feel an urge to eat some of that now. After a while: eventually the fudgy scent does seem to fade, but surprisingly, the mint sticks around. and the scent starts to turn into a foodier, almost chocolaty version of Snow White, or Snow Flakes with added vanilla. It reminds me of After Eight mints now, but with a gorgeous snowy cool base to it, soft and creamy and a little bit fruity and marshmallow-y. It also reminds me a little bit of the Candy Butcher with added minty coolness and a hint of warm cake at the base. Unusually, this smells both warm and comforting and also cool and bracing all at once. At this point the mint note reminds me of 'menthe a l'eau' (mint cordial diluted in water) like it did in Snow Flakes. Call my skin crazy, but I swear there's a touch of cassia to this. As time passes it seems to get spicier, and smells just like Underbed. The drydown is a lovely soft lightly spiced marshmallow biscuit, and smells very similar to the Candy Butcher without as much chocolate. There's even a little touch of what may be white musk to it. For such a light fluffy scent, I'm surprised at how long it stays on my skin. Verdict: this year, I got the Best Mint Fudge Ever for my birthday. It's very expensive fudge, and 'delicious' doesn't even do justice to how wonderful it is. TS smells just like that fudge in the bottle. On the skin it gets more complex. The vanilla mints of BPAL are very different. It's not often that I describe scents as tangible textures, but I get a brittle, 'hard sugar' feel from Lick It, a squishy, 'doughy' or marzipan-textured feel from Snowblind, and a fluffy, whipped, almost bouncy feel from TS, just like a marshmallow. This one is reminiscent of Spooky with the biscuity base of Underbed with an extra hit of mint and vanilla, and a little chocolate. I smell cocoa, cassia and coconut here too…and snow. The scent then begins to become layered into iced, slushy creamy mint and warm chocolate on top of dry baked vanilla-spicy cake. Very interesting warm-cool contrast, almost like mint ice cream or sorbet served on top of a warm slice of vanilla cake drizzled with hot chocolate sauce. It has a real 'Monster Bait' feel to it, I think these blends must share a similar foody vanilla base…but this one has a feel of Snow White (and resembles SW's minty sister, Snow Flakes, strongly at times), that fluffy whiteness, like snowy marshmallows, to it as well. Another vanilla-mint scent which I am in love with, the mint makes this nice and cool for summer but overall this seems to me like a winter scent, with an almost Christmassy feel to it, indulgent and rich yet with a frosty covering of mint. Glad I bought another backup! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Oh yes! From its fudgy start to its snowy ending, it is love. I'm glad I have two bottles of this. If you like this, try: Green Tree Viper, Lick It (Again), Snow Flakes, Monster Bait Underbed, Snowblind, Snow White, Undertow,, Candy Butcher

Monster Bait: BiggerCritters In the decant: tangy greenish-pink grapefruit with a sweet vanilla-floral undertone. Wet on skin: fizzy sharp grapefruit juice and flowery vanilla. Oddly, I am getting the greenish tinged furry musk from Buck Moon and Enraged Bunny Musk too. No ‘evil gardenia’ yet! Dry: oh, this is such a fun scent! Neither the gardenia nor the jasmine are going awry on me. The dominant note is the grapefruit, sweetened delightfully by vanilla sugar, with hints of flowers all around. I also get the furry musk from other ‘mammal musk’ scents, right up to the hint of grassy greenness such scents tend to have. It even has a hint of Dorian about it. Indeed, this reminds me of Enraged Bunny Musk, with added citrus and vanilla. This is such a happy fresh sweet scent! After a while: the grapefruit fades away slowly, letting the vanilla and floral notes come out. There’s still an effervescent tang, almost reminiscent of green tea, but now there’s a lovely velvety-creamy vanilla-jasmine. The jasmine in here is gorgeous, not the scary stuff that turns metallic and bitter, but a jasmine that smells like Lush Fairy Jasmine. And I love FJ. The vanilla does remind me of the one in Underpants, and also reminds me a little bit of Euphrosyne, Regan and Peitho (all favourites) as well. It gets smoother over time, less citrus-y, and turns into the most gorgeous vanilla-jasmine scent. I love vanilla and jasmine together, and in here the combination is perfect. Soft summery sultry petals surrounded by the creamy softness of vanilla. This is so delicious. The floral notes, now a little drier and sharper but not nasty at all, get a little stronger after a few hours. Verdict: at a time when I worry that my skin chemistry is turning anti-jasmine, and with skin that normally hates gardenia, I am so pleased that this gorgeous scent works on me. At first, there’s a sharp bite of grapefruit. Not a bitter grapefruit but a tangy, juicy scent with something grassy to it, and I even smell a hint of warm fuzzy musk and greenery, the like Enraged Bunny or the ornery hedgehog musk in Croquet, with grapefruit and sweet vanilla. As the grapefruit fades, the vanilla and some beautiful jasmine and gardenia notes come out, and the scent becomes a delightful tropical vanilla-floral fragrance. Jasmine and vanilla are so good when they are paired up, and this blend highlights this magnificently. It is wonderful to find a jasmine that works on me-but then again, I think Moroccan jasmine (along with night-blooming and sambac or motia attar) is one of those that usually works fine on my skin. This smells exotic and sweet and fluffy all at once, and I think I need another bottle-this is a wonderful vanilla scent for summer. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Oh yes, I need more. If you like this, try: Croquet, Dorian, Enraged Bunny Musk, Euphrosyne, Peitho, Regan, Perfumed Garden, Theodosius, Underpants