yeahbutnobut

Blood Phoenix In the bottle: grape flavoured sweets. Not wine or sweet grape juice, but purple grape flavouring. Wet on skin: now I smell almonds, and with the red fruitiness, get a strong impression of cherries. Dry on skin: cherries, marzipan, and a gorgeous fruity red dessert. A moment of Fruitcake, but no more grape sweets. This reminds me of Bordello but richer and more jewel-like in tone. I think I can smell the resins slowly peeking out as the almond fades. The grape scent has now matured into a sweet red wine, and I can smell the carnation, and maybe tonka as well. No flowers though. After a while: now I can smell the musk! And also, a little bit of the dragon’s blood, but it’s not the kind of DB that amps on me, it’s the one from Scorpio and Red Moon that I really like. But the scent now has become very, very, very sweet. And I mean SWEET. Now I get a return to the grape sweets scent I got before-though not very artificial, it is very sweet, almost toothache-inducing. Though the sweet wine is reminiscent of Haloa, which I love, this is a lot sweeter, maybe because of the tonka? It reminds me of the sweet cherry sugar scent of Bloody Mary, which I found too much to handle. It’s a shame really because I catch hints of gorgeous resin and red musk and carnation under all that sticky sugary fruit. The sweetness (which is almost caramelised and sometimes nauseating) does seem to tone down a tiny bit and that’s when the musk shows up a lot more. But at other times, the fruity sugary sweetness returns. It’s odd, because normally wine scents don’t turn cloying on my skin, but this smells almost like excessively sugared berry pie filling to me. But it seems to fluctuate between red musk and myrrh (love) and pie filling every so often, so I’m confused as to whether or not I like it! It does seem to settle into a floral red musk scent after a while, like a darker version of Red Moon 07. Verdict: this is lush, rich, deep and complex, and I was hoping to love it…but sadly it isn’t really my thing. It starts off almost foody, like some kind of decadent cherry and wine based dessert, but then the musk and resins kick in and it becomes really luxurious and dark. I should love this, but I don’t…because it is much too sweet and foody. Normally I love wine notes but a couple of recent wine/grape scents have become much too sweet on me-Prospero and this one. It smells not like wine or even grape juice, but like a really sweet, almost caramelised cherry pie filling, like that of Bloody Mary. I really do smell cherry sauce here even though there is no cherry note listed. But it’s too cloying, it almost makes me feel nauseous. Maybe it’s the combo of the grape and tonka and dragon’s blood? It’s a shame because I love the musk and resins in here a lot, but can’t handle the sickly sweet pie filling scent. There are other similar scents I prefer where I can get boozy, red musky incense goodness without the overly gourmand tones. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Not sure. Probably not-there are other wine scents I prefer. If you like this, try: Scorpio, Midnight Kiss, Bordello, Purple Phoenix, Haloa, Philosopher in Meditation, Chilling Cellar

White Phoenix In the bottle: cotton, lavender and osmanthus. Very pretty, but it could go either way. Wet on skin: lavender and magnolia…this reminds me of Yvaine! Dry on skin: this is very pretty! The combination of lavender, magnolia and crystalline musk instantly brings to mind Yvaine (a favourite of mine). I can also smell the osmanthus, a crisp clean white scent which might be cotton flower (reminds me of washed cotton), and also a hint of the spice others mention, which I'm sure is the sandalwood (white sandalwood SN had a mild spice to it which I love). I think I can also smell the woodsy-neroli scent of petitgrain. This is a white, pure, clean scent, fresh and sparkling but also warm. After a while: now that the lavender's gone, this scent is now very white indeed…though not snowy-cold, this is warm whiteness. Clean and almost hinting at washed linen but not quite. The osmanthus is there but doesn't amp, nor does the magnolia, or the other flowers-in fact, all the floral notes are very well balanced. The musk and sandalwood ground this scent beautifully. It's not long before a bit of sweetness appears, undoubtedly the sugar cane. The scent also becomes a lot crisper, drier and breezier at this point. Feathery and white. Verdict: this is my favourite of the 07 phoenix scents. Still doesn’t hold a candle to Priala, my favourite BPAL phoenix scent of all, but this is a gorgeous scent of purity, cleanliness and light. It reminds me of a brighter version of Yvaine, with it’s crystalline lavender, and then turns into a scent of brilliant whiteness which smells a little bit woody, floral and white musk with a hint of white cloth. It's like warm sheets of Egyptian cotton, so soft and luxurious. There's a very clean scent to this that is dry, makes me think of clean clothes but doesn't smell like the other laundry/clean/aquatic ozone scents. the drydown is sweeter, a bit more of the musk and sugar cane comes out now. This is quite a beautiful scent and it makes me feel calmed and uplifted. It’s a luminous, bright and lovely fragrance that’ll be perfect for summer. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! This is my favourite of the 07 phoenix scents. If you like this, try: Yvaine, Kindly Moon, Brides of Dracula, Zephyr, Dirty, Mr Ibis

Black Lace In the bottle: rich, sweet, smoky vanilla. Mmm. Wet on skin: oohhh…this is sweet vanilla with smoky incense and a little bit of booze! Dry on skin: oh yes, this is gorgeous. It is like a dark Antique Lace, but so much more than that. the vanilla is so delectable, and it actually reminds me more of the vanilla-amber of Mouse's Long Sad Tale than anything else. I also smell the tobacco and cognac, which add a dark, corrupted smoky-boozy feel to the scent, adding an edge to the sweet fluffy vanilla without making it too masculine. I also smell the same fantastic incense that was in Lurid Library. All in all, this is a fabulous combination! After a while: ok, this is a bit odd. Now I can smell the musk (which is a good thing because the musk here is delightful! Sensual and sweet and deep but not too heavy) but I also smell something like charred woods. I don't mean wood smoke or fragrant wood incense, but smouldering woods or dry leaves. Maybe it's the tobacco, or a kind of myrrh? I'm not sure, but I only smell it close up to the wrist. And other than that I still smell the gorgeous 'lacy' vanilla and incense. But the burnt woody/tobacco-y note is a tiny bit off putting. But away from the wrist, sexy vanilla-musk wafts around me. the vanilla-musk seems to strengthen though…there's still that burnt wood scent, but now it really does remind me of Antique Lace veiled with smoke, this scent is very fittingly named! I also get the Underpants similarity, with a slight hint of something like sandalwood underneath the vanilla. The scent then turns gorgeous again, a delightful vanilla-musk with incense swirling round. It’s very sensual and dark and alluring. It also lasts for ages on the skin! Verdict: mmm, definitely worth the hype, this has some winning notes and some moments when it is truly glorious, even though it’s not quite the perfection I expected. Whilst Antique Lace was a pretty frilly petticoat, this is sexy slinky black lingerie. This isn’t innocent and young, this is heady and sultry and smouldering. At first I get the most gorgeous vanilla scent, kind of like a mix of Mouse’s Long Sad Tale and Antique Lace, but with added incense and tobacco and sensual musk. But I’m not so keen on the middle stage of this scent, when one note, probably the tobacco, smells much too burnt on me, like charred woods, a bitter and harsh smoke as opposed to a gentle incense smoke. That is what stops me from truly loving this scent. A few hours later the scent becomes much nicer, a smoky vanilla musk that lasts for ages, a sexed-up Antique Lace. And this lasts for ages on the skin. this is a really beautiful scent and I would love this to bits were it not for that ‘burnt’ stage! Even so, this is a classic. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! But I'm still unsure of whether this is a two-bottle scent. If you like this, try: Antique Lace, Lurid Library, Forbidden Foyer, Mouse's Long and Sad Tale, Perversion, Hastur

In the imp: like the Forbidden Foyer, but overgrown with moss. Wet on skin: thick Spanish moss and damp woods with dark, wet soil. Dry on skin: now I can smell the roses. Yes, this is very similar to Zombi. It's almost like Zombi in the Forbidden Foyer…I smell the thick, swampy scent of moss, very much like Spanish moss, with a rich red rose note, and lots of wet, loamy soil. On top of that is the scent of rotting floorboards with just a tinge of what reminds me of the cognac of Forbidden Foyer, or maybe some incense? it smells just like an abandoned house in a swampy environment, and the swamp has come to reclaim the land the house stands on…it smells very humid, rotting and rather oppressive. After a while: now this smells a bit sharper, less wet, and I think there may be a light myrrh note to the incense in here, as now it smells like charred wood which is what I get from the light myrrh SN. I also smell more of the wood, which smells less soft and rotted now. it's also not as mossy or earthy. The strongest note now though is the rose-it's a powerful, perfumed and rich rose, reminiscent of the one in Whip. Yet there's something old and bitter about this scent, aged and dusty and forgotten, but also a bit sinister too. It’s rather unsettling. I also fear that one of the notes here will go a little sour on me…the moss here may not be as strong but I think it's turning sour like it did in the Black Swan. This then turns into a slightly wilted rose scent (the moss turning into something vaguely like vase water) with burnt woods. Not sure if I like it much. It then turns into a thin wilted rose scent with woods at the back and decayed moss. Verdict: this is nice, but not as wonderful as I expected. It smells very much like Thanatos meets the Forbidden Foyer, actually, but with lots and lots of humid moss added. It evokes an abandoned house in a swampy area, decaying and mouldering, it’s very evocative of abandonment and rot, but with a melancholy note of wilted rose. I was hoping for more incense though, and the drydown is a little bit too much like stagnant water and sour roses for me. I prefer the dry rot of Forbidding Foyer when it comes to smelling like decaying wood. And I prefer Madeline, which is similar. I’m glad I tried it though-it certainly feels atmospheric and oppressive. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Not really. If you like this, try: Forbidden Foyer, Zombi, Thanatos, Bayou, Madeline, Parlement of Foules

Egg Nog 07 In the imp: Baileys! I kid you not. This smells like Irish cream. Yum. Wet on skin: still boozy cream, but now I also smell a sugary soft vanilla, like that of Perilous Parlour. Dry on skin: mmm, this is delicious! It doesn't have as much of the marshmallow scent of the original, and has a touch more booze to it, so it smells closer to eggnog than the 04 version. However this does have a gorgeous fluffy vanilla note which smells just like the vanilla in Snowblind, Perilous Parlour and the original Beaver Moon. In fact, it reminds me of Snowblind without mint and with added Irish cream. It's also a little bit like Midway. But what I like best about this is that it is stronger than the original Egg Nog, which smelt a little bit faint on me. After a while: now I smell marshmallows! Yum, creamy vanilla and marshmallow goodness-it's all the marshmallow goodness I hoped to get in the Poof. The booze has receded a lot now. this smells creamy and delicious and I want to bite my wrist. Verdict: oh yes, this is like the original, but improved in terms of booziness, creaminess, strength and duration. This smells like creamy brandy and rum and Baileys at the beginning, sprinkled with nutmeg. The cream here doesn’t turn sour at all-it smells like cream should. And the sweetness isn’t cloying. The drydown is the most wonderful creamy marshmallow and vanilla scent, almost like a winter version of Midway, and it was this vanilla marshmallow scent that I loved so much from the original, but it was too faint and faded fast-but in here it is stronger and lasts longer. I love this and I’m glad I have a bottle of this yummy scent. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes! If you like this, try: Midway, Beaver Moon, Perilous Parlour, Grog

Jolasveinar 07 In the imp: buttery mince pie crusts (mmm!) over flowers and cold pine. Wet on skin: chestnuts roasting, pie crusts, sweet pine and sugary snow. Dry on skin: mmm, this is lovely! I think I like this better than the 06 version. it smells very similar, but I think this one is heavier on the snow note, which is a sweet chilly citrus-pine scent here, and the pastry note is a bit stronger too, but it doesn't have the heavy buttery smokiness from last year (yet). I also smell the moss and the floral orchid, and a bit of dirt. I also smell a chestnut-flower mix reminiscent of Judith Victorious. After a while: huh? Now it smells all masculine, a little ozone-like, a weird mix of aftershave with smoke from baking. It's very perfumey now, reminds me of the dark green cologne scent of Bad Luck Woman Blues, but with soft ethereal florals (very reminiscent of magnolia) and roasted chestnuts. It does remind me of the 06 version, but a little more perfumey and aftershave-like. like there's a manly woodsy note in here…maybe it's the moss? Verdict: this is very similar to the 06 version, actually. It has that same unusual but pleasant mix of foody buttery pastry notes (though not caramelised sugar) with snowy, mossy notes and pale floral notes. The difference with this version, to me anyway, is that there’s more of a woodsy-green-pine scent to it, not as floral, and with a hint more spice to the foody notes. However, one note turns this into a really manly scent, reminiscent of aftershave. It’s odd, because a few of the recent foodies have had this odd aftershave reaction (Chanukkiah and Sugar Skull in particular, and also Bad Luck Woman Blues) and I think the pine/snow notes in here seem to amplify that a bit more. I also find the foody chestnut smoke note a little too cloying on me. A fun scent, but not my thing. I think it would smell scrumptious on a man though! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No. If you like this, try: Bad Luck Woman Blues, Judith Victorious, Old Moon, Snow Storm, Channukiah

Peacock Queen 07 In the imp: a rich, voluptuous rose with a hint of thorny sharpness. Wet on skin: huh? Where's the rose gone? Now I just get a trace of rose and a lot of sharpness. Dry on skin: what on earth? Now I smell rose, but it's a faint rose. and it smells like rose petals floating in dishwater. No, really. There's something here, slightly lemony and green, which smells like washing up liquid mixed with scummy water. That, along with rose petals. There's a hint of waxy calla lily too. And to top it off, underneath it all I get something that's vaguely sulphurous. Like the faintest whiff of brimstone (and I don't mean that vetiver or lovely incense note that Beth uses in her brimstone blends) underneath the roses and scummy warm dishwater. What have I done to deserve such a skin reaction? Even the old PQ, even though she smelt a little too sharp a rose for me, didn't go so awry on me. After a while: the scent stays as this 'rose gone wrong' for a while before that weird sulphur and dish soap scent retreats and the scent left behind is a sour rose. An improvement over what it smelt like before, but still not very nice. Verdict: I didn’t mind the last version of PQ, I thought she smelt a little sharp and haughty, a little bit too tart on my skin but not unpleasant, definitely fitting the description. But the 07 version totally bombed on my skin. It reminded me of the harshest reviews of Imp of the Perverse (which incidentally was pleasant on me), in that it smelt of sulphur and vase water and washing up liquid and other unpleasantness with just a hint of rose. And it smelt so nice in the vial too…and I think I’m the only one who can’t stand this scent, I feel bad just writing this when the other reviews are so glowing. I don’t usually get this with pure rose scents, they tend to just turn to gorgeous pure rose, but this scent broke my heart. Oh well, at least Rose Red 07 is fantastic and more than makes up for it! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No! If you like this, try: Rose Red, Pride, Lucy’s Kiss, Madeline, London, Rose Cross

Midwinter's Eve 07 In the imp: this is very different to the last two MWE scents. This smells like the plum in Bathsheba, not the one in Bordello. Wet on skin: out come the floral notes, now it reminds me of a gentler version of Witch Queen. Dry on skin: mmm, this is gorgeous! Very different to the sweet 'visions of sugar plum fairies' I got from the 04 and 05 MWE versions, which was sweet and sugary and pink, but a richer plum scent which matches the description better. This scent is a lot less happy and sparkly, and a lot more poignant and deep. The plum note is a fresh, not too sweet plum, which is also dark and juicy…like a wild black plum. And the floral notes are soft and velvety. There may be some tuberose in here, possibly some daffodil or orchid. In fact, this smells like the Witch Queen, but without that screaming harsh floral note that put me off it. It also reminds me of Bathsheba and Morgause. This is an enchanting scent. After a while: the plum sweetens a little, but doesn't become cloying. it even becomes a little smoother, creamier…maybe a little bit musky? It reminds me so much of those musk-plum scents now that I wonder if there's a touch of musk here too? The floral notes are gorgeous too-they add a lush, voluptuous scent to the plum but are not the kinds of flowers that turn bad on my skin. Now I get a resemblance to Blood Countess here. The scent stays as this sweet, sophisticated plum touched with flowers, it doesn't turn sickly sweet, and it smells just like what I hoped to get from Kitsune Tsuki. Verdict: the old MWE, though pleasant, was a little too cheerful and reminiscent of Aunt Caroline's Joy Mojo for it to be a melancholy scent. This one is much more fitting to the description, and also smells a lot nicer, less sugary, more sophisticated. The plum note is deeper and a fruitier, less like sugar plum fairies dancing in frilly tutus, sweet and sparkly, and more like a classy plum-floral-musk along similar lines to Bathsheba and the Witch Queen. In fact, this is the kind of scent I hoped to get from the Witch Queen. I really like this scent, and it’s certainly my favourite version of MWE, and I’m keeping the decant but don’t need a bottle as it reminds me so much of Bathsheba, which I prefer. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? The decant, for sure. If you like this, try: Bathsheba, Witch Queen, Morgause, Blood Countess, Kitsune Tsuki

Winter Maiden The scent: in the bottle, it’s a wonderful frosty blackberry. Here’s to hoping it doesn’t turn to cat pee, but I feel it might not because it’s not as concentrated. Once poured in the bath, the scent absolutely blossoms-just 2/3 of a 5ml decant makes the whole bathroom smell amazing, like Beth’s snow note and pines and berries and a little bit of rose. In fact, the entire corridor smells of Winter Maiden after a little while! When in the bath, the scent got even better…I smelt more of the fig and berries and also the amber. and then I applied the oil into my skin for extra scent…and I can safely say that the blackberry in here is not of the cat pee variety at all! In fact, this smells like the perfect blend of amber, rose, blackberry and possibly fig too, with a twist of winter evergreens (probably some balsam in there) and just a hint of the famous BPAL snow note, and a little bit of citrus from the bergamot. Such a gorgeous scent to slather all over my skin! I’m even considering using this as perfume now… The oil and texture: seems to dissolve and disperse nicely in the bath. No foam, no colour…just scented bathwater. The water feels silky and moisturising but not slippery or oil slick-y. it absorbs into the skin but not as much as the massage oils-this one feels like there’s a bit more extra moisturisation going on. My skin felt very soft after leaving the bath. In fact, I love the smooth sensation of this oil that I used this, post-bath, as a moisturiser. And that made the scent even better as well. I think this will make a wonderfully indulgent ‘lotion’, especially after a bath or shower. My skin feels so soft now, but not greasy, it doesn’t feel like there’s a film over it. The verdict: I am so impressed with this stuff, how beautiful it smells, and how versatile it is. I can use it as bath oil, moisturising oil, and perfume. Plus the scent of snowy berries and amber is to die for. I can’t wait to try more BPAL bath oils!

Here's a question. Am I the only one who pronounces BPAL as a word (Bee-Pal), but pronounces TAL as initials (Tee-Ay-El)? Somehow, pronouncing TAL as 'tal' sounds odd...

Fruitcake In the imp: holy crap this smells like my family Christmas cake. Marzipan, booze, and dark fruity cake. Wet on skin: now I smell more of the fruit, less of the almonds, more of the booze too! Dry on skin: there's a very sharp note, probably a fruity booze, I'm guessing sherry or brandy, that is very strident in here and threatens to take over. It reminds me of that odd fruity sharpness in Chanukkiyah that I wasn't keen on, but I can tolerate it better here. Underneath that is the smell of moist, fruity, rich and incredibly alcoholic Christmas cake, just like the one my mum makes. I smell the cake itself. The cherries. The raisins. The candied citrus. The brandy-and lots of brandy. A touch of port. And a marzipan topping which smells like crumbly almonds…exactly like home made marzipan that I am so familiar with. I'm not crazy about the strange bitter fruit note on top of it all, but the scent overall is pure festive fruitcake. After a while: that bitter note disappears altogether and now the scent is even more delicious! it now smells like moist, mushy cake filled with fruit. There's also a hint of plum pudding here but it's mainly Christmas cake. There's still lots of booze here, and I also smell more cherries and raisins too, as well as hints of spice and brown sugar. I want to bite my wrist off. It gets richer and more sugary over time, and it has tons of throw! The drydown is reminiscent of Vice without chocolate, a delicious mushy cherry cake scent with marzipan and spice. I think I get a hint of icing now, a light sugary scent. Verdict: in my family, Christmas isn’t complete without the Christmas cake. Made with fruit soaked in various boozes for months, this cake is incredibly moist, incredibly heavy, incredibly rich, and incredibly alcoholic-you don’t drive after eating even a morsel of this stuff! It is covered in marzipan made from almonds that have been freshly blanched and ground, and icing. It is also really yummy. So I was very pleased that my BPAL Yuletide was made complete when an imp of this appeared in my order. And yes, it does remind me of the family fruitcake. From an almond intro suggesting a marzipan topping, to a scent of glace cherries, raisins, candied citrus, all covered with cake and dark sugary notes and liberal splashes of brandy and port. This then softens up into a gorgeous spicy cake with cherries, icing sugar and marzipan, not as intensely alcoholic, more like fruity gingerbread, but still lovely. Like the real thing, this is very rich and sweet and boozy and I don’t think I need more than one imp of this, but I will cherish my imp for sentimental reasons, and because it smells delicious! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Of course!

Rose Red 07 In the imp: crisp, icy, fresh rose. Very much like 05. Wet on skin: now it turns a little sharp…but still retains that dewy, crisp, cool rosy scent. Dry on skin: oh, this one is lovely! Whilst I find 05 a little sharp, this one is closer to 04, which was the perfect frozen rose scent. This has that hint of almost lemony-geranium type scent that I got in 05, mixed with the pure, icy rose scent I got in 04, making a gorgeous rich red rose scent with a nice chilly watery aspect. This is truly the classic BPAL rose. After a while: oh yes, this is much nicer than 05. It's not sour at all-a bit tart, but not nose-piercingly sharp and wilted. The icy scent from before has toned down, and now the scent is a bit fainter, but it smells like a pure fresh rose…and not just the flower. I smell the stem too, maybe the leaves. A graceful, elegant, long stemmed rose, with a hint of dew. It does fade away very fast from the skin though, in about 2-3 hours, there’s little trace of the rosy goodness left on me. Verdict: oh yes, this is Rose Red in it’s best incarnation! I have fond memories of how lovely the 04 version was, then I swapped that off, and bought 05, which was nice at first but a little bit too tangy, and then became really sharp on me after a year or so. This reminds me more of RR04, and I love it. The perfect frozen rose, petals on ice, long stemmed and sophisticated, fresh and very genuine. I get hints of stem and leaves as well as the flower. This is rose in it’s purest and loveliest form. The only disadvantage is that it fades too fast, but is beautiful while it lasts. I need a bottle now! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes-I'm getting this one for sure! If you like this, try: Peacock Queen, London, Hope, Lucy's Kiss, Rose Cross, Empress

Gingerbread Poppet 07 In the imp: warm, baked, spicy gingerbread. I want to eat this up. Wet on skin: gingerbread with a hint of brown sugar. Dry on skin: mmm, now the ginger veers in a Shubby direction, which I like very much. It becomes hotter, a little more fiery, and even a little less foody than I expected, but the scents of warm treacly cake mixed with ginger and other spices make this incredibly comforting and delicious. This is a little more varied in spice than GP04, maybe a little more cake-y, and the best thing is that for now it doesn't have the burnt undertone I disliked from 05. After a while: hmm, now this becomes even more interesting. The ginger has toned down a little, and now not only does it smell like gingerbread, but like fruity gingerbread! Like there are raisins, plums, figs or apricots in the gingerbread…it reminds me of the dried sweet fruit note from Sugar Skull, but covered in cake instead of caramel. It is delicious! It actually reminds me of those German gingerbread biscuits with a jam filling, but without the chocolate those biscuits have. Then this turns from mere fruity gingerbread to a Christmas cake spiked with booze! Oh yes, this is good stuff! There's a cheeky addition of sherry or port to this gingerbread! Verdict: mmm, this is so delicious! I love the gingerbread scents, and was a huge fan of GP04, but GP05 smelt like burnt gingerbread, which really disappointed me. This is more like 04…but I think it’s even better! I think this is my favourite Poppet so far! Warm ginger with a slight hint of something like Shub Niggurath to it, this starts off as a foodier Shub and then transforms into true gingerbread filled with dried fruit and topped with a shot of booze! It smells less dry than 04, this one has a nice moist feel to it, probably thanks to the slight fruity/treacle note I get here. I think I need to get a bottle…I want to bite this stuff off my skin! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? definitely! If you like this, try: Shub Niggurath, Cockaigne, La Befana, Saw Scaled Viper, Bengal, El Dia de Reyes

Rozpustnica In the imp: lemon verbena and maybe a hint of white/blue musk. Wet on skin: lemon verbena and a hint of white floral musk. Dry on skin: lots of verbena here! For now this is very lemony, a bit cologne-y, but underneath that I smell pale flowers and a little bit of musk. I smell lilies too, even though that's not listed. But I definitely smell ethereal moonflower and blue musk notes…a bit like a lemony Long Night Moon. After a while: soap? Now the lemon has faded, I get a vaguely soapy lily scent now lingering on my skin. It's actually not bad though, as soapy florals go…this smells soft, clean, and subtle. I can smell moonflower and magnolia here too, as well as a touch of ozone-like blue musk. However, the notes I hoped to smell most-the rose and lychee-are nowhere to be found. The scent then turns into a pure white flower scent-just a bit of musk, but mainly magnolia and moonflower, and something a little bit sour underneath-the remains of the verbena perhaps? I think now I make out some rose, but the scent is a little waxy and soapy now. It reminds me of Gibbous Moon, but not as crisp and clear as that scent was. Verdict: this is very pretty…but I’m not sure if it’s my thing. It starts off smelling very lemony, with just a bit of musk and floral. The verbena then burns off to leave a gentle floral scent with a little musk. It’s a bit soapy though, a bit waxy, which isn’t normally what I get with magnolia or moonflower. It’s more like a lily note. I was hoping for more rose and lychee but they are not discernible here. This isn’t bad, but isn’t really my scent, and it does fade fast…so not a keeper for me. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? not really. If you like this, try: Long Night Moon, Vampire Tears, Phobos, Swan Maiden, Gibbous Moon

Fairy Wine In the imp: mmm, this smells like honey and elderflower cordial, a drink I call 'fairy juice', funnily enough. Wet on skin: now I smell dandelions and redcurrants, along with sugar plums and honey water. Dry on skin: ooh, I love this. This really does smell like what I'd imagine a fairy drink to smell like. It's not boozy, but it's a very juicy smell, wet, fresh and fruity-floral. The honey is delightfully sweet but with a watery quality reminiscent of honeyed herbal tea, especially with the hint of dandelion (not as strong as the dandelion in One to Tie). And the currants are perfect-they are sweet, but not too sweet. I also smell other fruits here, like sweet red grapes and something that could be plum. After a while: mmm, this one gets better. It gets fruitier, and I also smell more of the honey. It also smells richer and fuller. This is like Roadhouse, but much, much nicer. It doesn't have that nasty beer smell, that's replaced with a classier wine note. Nor does it smell like tobacco, but the honeyed dandelion is similar. This also reminds me of that wonderfully festive (that's festive in a summer festival way) honeyed sweetness I got from Litha, though this one is a lot more fruity and sweet. I now want to drink something that tastes like this one smells. It sweetens more and more over time, but doesn't over-sweeten. The scent moves between smelling of a honey infusion to a delectable fruit juice mix and back again. this scent will be absolutely perfect for summer. Verdict: I should have known…I might as well get a bottle of every scent with fairy associations because most of them are fantastic. This is no exception. I still think Fairy Market is the best thing ever but this one is a gorgeous scent too. I think this is my favourite dandelion scent in BPAL…most of them go either bitter or soapy on me but not this. This scent smells just like what I’d imagine fairy wine to smell like. It’s not boozy, but it is fruity, juicy, refreshing and joyful in feel. I smell the currants and honey, the honey in here is sweet and non-cloying, the currants aren’t too sour, and there may also be a little bit of grape here too, or some other red fruit? The dandelion is subtle but adds a ‘wildflower cordial’ scent to this wine. It doesn’t last long on the skin but it is wonderful while it lasts. I’ll need a bottle for the warmer months. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes! If you like this, try: Bordello, Fairy Market, Sagittarius, Midwinter's Eve, Litha, Roadhouse

In the bottle: oh dear…under a delectable honeyed vanilla is the dreaded 'cat pee' blackberry… Wet on skin: oh no, this smells suspiciously close to cat pee… Dry on skin: ok, this is heartbreaking. It smells like the Oblation, and the Oblation was horrid on me. I was hoping that the blackberry leaf wouldn't smell like blackberry fruit, but in here it does, and it's the blackberry note that smells like my kitty's marked his territory on me. Normally I adore honey, but I notice that when mixed with blackberry, it tends to make the urine-like smell stronger. (The only time it doesn't is in Faiza.) and there's a slightly rubbery undertone to the honeyed-blackberry too. I smell pleasant vanilla sweetness, and musk too, and yes it does remind me of O, but I just can't get over how this one smells like cat pee *sobs* After a while: still smells like naughty kitty on me, sadly. The honeyed vanilla musk, which is really lovely and I wish it could stand out more, is a tad stronger, but that blackberry underneath is still taunting me with that 'tomcat-marked bramble' smell I got in the likes of Monster Bait Closet, Montresor and Agony of Heartache. It still reminds me of the Oblation but I think, if I was to choose a preference, I'd choose this one. Ok, now this is even more heartbreaking…because it smells really nice. After a moment of such strong cat pee blackberry, which I thought would never end, now that has faded and I get a gorgeous honeyed vanilla musk. There's a hint of fruitiness but it now smells like proper berries. And I think I smell a hint of spice. Dammit, this smells good. It reminds me of the honey-musk in Freak Show, but sweeter and lighter. This smells approachable. If this scent was all about this drydown and didn't start of smelling of blackberry, I'd be all over this. The other disadvantage is that at this point, the smell is a little bit faint. But it is so lovely…I can see why other people love this so much. It reminds me of a 'blackberry vanilla musk' scent now, it is soft and sweet but also ethereal, with a hint of something purple and bright, like Una's eyes. Verdict: at first, when I tried this, I was so sad. I know that Lady Una has the ears of a cat, but that's about as cat-like as I expected her to be. As with most scents with blackberry, this smells like kitty sprayed all over my wrist. It’s the same honey-blackberry combination as the Oblation, and it just doesn’t work on me. And it smells like this for at least an hour. I love Lady Una’s character so this was very painful…but then, she changed into something so gorgeous that it was almost like the cat pee stage was a distant memory. I've never had a blend veer from something nasty-smelling to something truly beautiful like this before. The drydown is a soft, gentle, sweet and welcoming vanilla-musk edged with honey and made purple with a touch of blackberry, which now smells like berries. it’s such a gorgeous soft vanilla-honey-berry musk with a hint of something magical and ethereal to it. If this was all I got in the scent I would have gone straight for a bottle. But sadly, the catty stage of this scent is too much for me so I don’t think I’ll get a bottle. Emoticon rating: (just-applied stage) and (drydown) Is it a keeper? no, sadly…despite that delightful drydown. If you like this, try: The Oblation, O, Faiza, Monster Bait Closet, Montresor, Eat Me, Dana O'Shee

Ambergris accord, benzoin, teakwood, frankincense, myrrh, Mysore sandalwood, and incense. Heavenly Love and Earthly Love In the imp: subtle but gorgeous frankincense, like the Pit and the Pendulum, but gentler. Wet on skin: glorious frankincense, warm myrrh, and sandalwood. Dry on skin: oh, this is so beautiful. I love incense so much, so this is a hit on me. It reminds me of Midnight Mass and the Pit and the Pendulum, and yet it is also different. It is subtler, more like the scent of incense that lingers in a church, not like smelling the resins directly. There's frankincense here, golden and high pitched, with the lower notes of myrrh and sweeter benzoin, gorgeous sandalwood and teak add a nice woodsy undertone (it's not as woody as Cathedral though), and I think I smell a hint of salty ambergris. But for now it's mainly frankincense and myrrh and I swear there's beeswax here too. After a while: yes, this is very subtle and seems to be drawing itself in (Pit and the Pendulum does the same thing), not giving off much throw, but I still can't get over how beautiful this is. Now it's a little sweeter thanks to the benzoin, and I smell more of the woods and myrrh. Now it reminds me of the subtle balsamic resins of Cobalt's Seduce La Mente (but without the amber and vanilla). It's the kind of scent that makes me want to nuzzle my nose into my wrist and sniff it all the time. a soft crumbly resin which feels soothing and sacred. This gets softer, even more nicely mixed, and sweeter over time. the myrrh in here is fabulous, and I get amber-like nuances to the resin at the end. Verdict: oh yes, this is heavenly and this is love. Probably the most gorgeous incense scent in BPAL, or at least a strong contender for that place. Subtler and softer than Midnight Mass, more golden than Pit and Pendulum, more nuanced than Penitence. This really is the ultimate church incense scent…in fact, this scent is very reminiscent of the smell of incense that hung in the air inside a church I visited in Sicily this summer. I think the hint of ambergris, slightly evocative of salty sea air, enhances that memory. The woods add a nice ‘earthly’ touch to ground the ethereal wisps of scented smoke, and the smoky myrrh-benzoin drydown is like a nose-magnet, I can’t pull my nose away from my wrist. As well as the classic BPAL incense scents, this also reminds me of Arcana's Holy Terror and Cobalt's Seduce La Mente. Oh yes, did I say that I love this? I’ll need to find a way to get a bottle of this asap, because a half-decant won’t do! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes and I want a bottle. Ohhhhh... If you like this, try: Midnight Mass, Penitence, Pit and the Pendulum, Cathedral, King Cobra

Chanukkiyah In the imp: caramelised jam, very much like Crumpet Rebellion. Wet on skin: this smells like Sugar Skull 07 now, right down to the slight hint of manly perfume I got from that scent! Dry on skin: it still smells strongly of treacle, and there's still a hint of that odd perfumey note, but now I think I smell the fruits. I think it's the pomegranate I smell here, but it's not the sweet, rich pom from Fruit of Paradise, but something much more bitter and sharp. There's also something green and bitter-maybe the olive oil? It doesn't smell like good olive oil though. This one is really odd on my skin, a bit muddled…the sugary note is somewhere between La Befana and Sugar Skull, but there's a scent of aftershave and a strange bitter fruit note that almost clashes. Maybe this will settle down after a while. I can't smell the beeswax or amber. After a while: ok, now this is coming together a little bit more coherently. Now I smell the fig and pom, and they remind me of the fruits in Milk Moon 07, but whilst I loved MM07 and what the fig and pom did to that, in here they seem to clash with the sugar a little. I smell a bit more of the jam now and the smoky treacle becomes less aftershave-like and more like caramel (very strong caramel, mind you) but the fruit notes are too sharp and distracting. I was hoping this would settle nicely but that sharp bitterness with the cloying treacle smell lasts for too long. Only after a few hours do I get the beeswax. Verdict: this one really let me down…and I got a big bottle and everything because it sounded so good! Fried jam doughnuts! Amber! Beeswax! Fig and pomegranate! The only things that could have gone wrong were the olive oil or maybe the doughnut note turning too caramelised. This did indeed turn very caramelised, but it also turned downright weird on me! A scent like masculine perfume or aftershave came out, and a very bitter note also cut through the thick, sticky sweetness…a note reminiscent of bitter pomegranate ‘skin’ (not juice) or rancid olive oil. I would have probably found the scent a little cloying but definitely agreeable were it not for this annoying bitter note which made the scent a little dissonant. I wanted more beeswax and amber. Oh well, at least I managed to sell my bottle but this one was quite a heartbreaker on me. I wish it even remotely smelt like Eat Me on me! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? no. If you like this, try: La Befana, Sugar Skull, Milk Moon 07, Red Lantern, Knave of Hearts, Arrival at the Sabbath

Mutable Fire: the essence of striving. Sage, clove, dandelion, balm of gilead, fig, and chamomile. Sagittarius In the imp: smooth herbs and fig with a balmy softness. Wet on skin: the dandelion blooms on my skin, backed by fig and sage. Dry on skin: this one is lovely! I was put off dandelion by One to Tie but I love this. It's mainly dandelion, for sure, but the slightly bitter scent of this weed is smoothed out by sweeter, softer notes, including one of the loveliest fig notes I've smelt in BPAL. It's like the sweet sticky brown fig in Strangler Fig, a sweet dry earthy fruit. I also smell the sage and the camomile, warm gentle herbs, and the clove is probably what adds that lovely sweet warmth to the scent, that hint of spice. This is a mellow scent of summer. After a while: something in here, probably the dandelion, threatens to turn to soap. But apart from that, this is a very pretty scent-I still smell the clove and fig and camomile. It also reminds me a little bit of Virgo at this point, a similar green-floral feel, but warmer and less earthy. It's outdoorsy and carefree. The scent veers between soapy dandelion to glorious spiced fig with herbal nuances-now it's at it's figgy stage. There's something smooth and balmy over the whole scent. After a while this smells grassy, like One to Tie, but sweeter and smoother, there's none of that bitter sharpness, it smells a little bit creamy as well…maybe the clove note is slightly creamy. Sadly this scent doesn't last very long on me-about 4 hours later and only a faint trace of herbal sweetness remains. Verdict: this is a really nice scent, especially at the beginning, when it’s a gorgeous spicy-herbal fig scent I love the fig note in here, it smells like dried figs, all sweet and mushy and brown as opposed to the sharper green fig note in most BPALs. I think the creamy clove enhances it a bit too. It’s warm and inviting and summery, especially with that hint of dandelion. This note, sadly, does make this turn a bit soapy at drydown, which is a shame…and the scent fades away fast. But even so, this is such a unique fragrance and one of the nicest fig scents. I’d love to see more scents with this fig note. But when it comes to dandelion, I much prefer Fairy Wine to this. I’ll have to see if my mum, a Sag, likes this…I don’t think it’s her style of scent (she’s more of a Stella McCartney person), but you never know! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes-one bottle. If you like this, try: One To Tie, Roadhouse, Strangler Fig, Hetairae, Virgo 07, Fairy Wine

Diwali In the bottle: sweet mango and flowers with a hint of coconut. Wet on skin: mmm, now I smell the woods and spices! Dry on skin: now the wood smells like incense, it's smoky! This is really beautiful, complex and interesting. I can smell all sorts of things here-flowers, fruit, spices, woods, incense, even a hint of something creamy. I smell a gorgeous jasmine note, not bitter or sharp at all, but beautiful and bright, along with the sweet mango, and also some delicious spices. There's coconut and almond milk to add a slightly gourmand touch (but this isn't a foody scent) and I also smell the drier sweetness of tamarind and raisins, the sweet powdery lightness of lotus root, and a fabulous incense. It smells like aromatic woods gently smouldering over a table of offerings. After a while: my oh my, this gets even better. There's a wonderful, shining floral note at the heart of this-it's jasmine, but like no jasmine I know of from BPAL. This one is heady but not sharp, this one is sweet and glorious, sweetened by the mango, I think. All around I smell the spices and incense and dried fruits. This is so unique and everything works seamlessly. The floral note, which was singing on my skin, now quietens but doesn't go away. I think now I smell more of the lotus and maybe rice flower, as well as the woodsy notes, which are rich, dry, a little bit smoky but not as much as before. I still smell spices and mango here too, but I think there's a bit more of a nutty smell now from the cashew, almond and coconut. It's still beautiful and I love the way it morphs and how all the notes play together. The nutty smell increases over time, and the woods smell now like soft incense ashes, along with that glorious floral background. The smoke returns at the very end with hints of nuts and creamy flowers and woods. Verdict: this is one of the most stunning scents in the Yule collection. It’s so unique, so complex, so beautiful, festive in a totally different way to the other Yule scents. it’s a mix of all sorts of scents from fruity mango to offertory flowers, one of the most gorgeous woodsy incense notes ever, touches of spices and nuts…and everything blends wonderfully together in a scent which is both colourful and joyful yet also feels sacred and luminous. There’s a lot going on here but there’s also a harmony to it so nothing clashes and the morphs aren’t dramatic. The jasmine note here is one of the nicest in BPAL and that incense note is fantastic in the way that it smells like it’s smouldering but not burning, and I can also smell the woods themselves. There’s nothing quite like this in BPAL, and I need another bottle! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes! This is magnificent! If you like this, try: The Dodo, Khajuraho, Chintamani Dhupa, Kubla Khan, Hungry Ghost Moon, The Masque

November In the imp: the petitgrain-leaves cologne of October, but with a chilly pine/fir note. Wet on skin: oh, now I smell a gorgeous icy note like Ice Queen creeping in! Dry on skin: mmm, this is nice. This is the offspring of Talvikuu and October. I smell that crisp 'masculine cologne' from October, with its hints of petitgrain, citrus, moss and woodsy leafy notes. But this time it's chilled with the crisp, cold, ice note from Talvikuu (it's less feminine-smelling than Ice Queen), with it's nuances of fir and birch and that frozen, crystalline, white musk note. The cologne note smells more like fallen leaves in here. Or green leaves trapped by ice. After a while: now this smells sweeter, like a sprinkling of white sugar over the crisp snow. I don’t smell the leaves as much now, hints of them, but the snow note is much stronger. it's not the Skadi/Snow Moon note, more like the note from Cloister Graveyard, Talvikuu and Darkling Thrush, a less slushy, more frosty note. I smell a hint of cucumber to it, as well as a lovely soft sweetness, and frozen evergreen notes. Over time I smell a bit more of the leaves, they smell like dry leaves now with a little bit of autumn smoke (and is that a hint of vetiver I smell?), but with a frosty coating. After a few hours, the snow melts, and I'm left with a dry leafy smell which is much more true than the leaves in October, a hint of tree bark and dry moss, and just a hint of crisp winter air and pine needles. Verdict: October disappointed me but I really like this. It has a similar autumn leaf scent to it but unlike October, this is less cologne-y. And it also has that fantastic ice/snow note that Beth does so well. It smells like the gorgeous cool wet slushy note from Talvikuu over autumn leaves…since most snow scents tend to have an evergreen feel, it’s nice to see a scent that evokes winter in a deciduous forest. The snow gets sweeter before melting away to reveal dry autumn leaves and tree bark. Gorgeous and evocative, I will keep my decant but I’m not sure if I prefer this to the likes of Ice Queen, Snow Flakes or Nuclear Winter, to see if this is worth getting a bottle of. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? maybe-I need to compare this with other ice/snow blends, not sure if it's a favourite. If you like this, try: Kumari Kandam, Death of the Gravedigger, Cloister Graveyard in the Snow, October, Darkling Thrush, Snow Flakes

The Fruit of Paradise In the imp: a gorgeous sweet pomegranate scent. A bit tangy but delightfully sugared. Wet on skin: it gets a little tangier now and a little bit more like the Pomegranate SN. Dry on skin: spiced pomegranate juice! This is gorgeous! It smells a bit like the SN, but a lot better-this is an improvement, an enhancement of single note pomegranate. It doesn't have the candle-like smell that I got from the SN and Swank, it does have a hint of bitterness though. It's got a lovely depth to it too, a deep red depth. Overall, this smells like what mulled wine would be like if the wine were replaced with pomegranate juice. I smell cloves in here, I think, maybe some other spices too but definitely clove. It's a very festive scent. After a while: oh my, this gets better. Now that sharp bitterness mellows out completely and the scent goes into a rich, sweet, dark phase of sweet pomegranate, deep and garnet-red in tone, enhanced with spices and possibly a hint of a sweet resin. Now it smells like a darker, less golden version of Hymn to Proserpine. This is even more beautiful now…velvety isn't a word I'd use to describe crisp sparkling pomegranate, but this is exactly what this scent is. This gets even darker and smoother and warmer with time, it's spicy nuances coming out a bit more. There's something to it that's like a resin, but it's not the golden, shining amber of HtP, I think this one might be a myrrh or opoponax note. Definitely evocative of the underworld now. It gets to a gorgeously purple-red scent after a while, not fake or cloying though, but quite sophisticated. There may be a hint of musk to it, keeping the fruit anchored. Verdict: this is everything I hoped to get from the Pomegranate SN, and then some. I was a little disappointed when the SN smelt a little too sharp and then turned vaguely candle-like on me. But this is perfect pomegranate. It’s deep, rich red pomegranate with a wine-like quality to it, a slight bite of bitterness and a dark sweetness, juicy and fruity but shadowy too. I also get a wonderful undertone of something supporting the pomegranate that I can’t put my finger on, but I think it’s a mix of clove-like spices, possibly with resins and maybe even musk? This is like the gorgeous pom in note in Hymn to Proserpine without the golden amber sweetness. This is definitely the fruit of the underworld…and boy, what delicious and tempting fruit this is. A great scent to wear alone or layered with other scents. I need at least two bottles. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes and I need more! If you like this, try: Hymn to Proserpine, Persephone, Mme Moriarty, Swank, Haloa 07

Angeronalia In the imp: peach! The nectarine note really pops out here, with a hint of floral. Wet on skin: peach, flowers and patchouli, like the Ecstasy of True Love…but this one is a bit brighter and spicier. Dry on skin: now the blood orange bursts onto the scene! Wow, this is such a vivacious, optimistic scent! It's this year's Sol Invictus, I think. The gardenia in here doesn't turn to evil on me, this is a creamy white flower boosted by what could be the olive blossom. I smell something almost peppery to it, but no strong lemongrass. The blood orange note is fantastic as usual, but I'm getting lots of gorgeous sweet nectarine here, so overall this smells like what I'd imagine peach blossom to smell like, with a hint of spicy orange, and an earthy patchouli base. I don't get much honey. After a while: this reminds me of the Ecstasy of True Love with more floral notes, and more citrus. It's brighter and sunnier than EoTL, the patchouli grounds it a little but this isn't a dirty earthy patch scent at all. It reminds me of Aglaea as well, but not as sweet. I see where other people's 'soapy' reactions come from because the floral notes do hint at soap, but to me this smells clean, not soapy, it's a sophisticated scent. I'm surprised at the spicy note I get here-is it lemongrass, maybe elemi? The scent settles into a smooth, clean, bright and lively (but not hyper-this is jovial, but dignified as well) mix of flowers and peaches with ruby red oranges and a lovely deep warmth. The floral notes, maybe with the influence of honey, remind me of Kindly Moon…this is the daytime equivalent of KM. Eventually this smells more like blood orange with a hint of floral, not the other way round as before. Verdict: this is such a lovely, bright, bold fragrance! It’s a gorgeous fruity-floral scent which is lively and positive in feel, but also down to earth thanks to a touch of darker spice and patchouli. The gardenia note is perfect-smooth and floral. The nectarine is sweet and peachy, the lemongrass doesn’t amp, and I just love the blood orange here too. I was hoping for more honey, but I really love this scent as it is. It’s one of those sunny scents that’s perfect for banishing the winter blues, and has a nice clean sophisticated drydown of orange and white flowers. I’ve bought a bottle of this already. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes and I want more! If you like this, try: Aglaea, Imp, Akuma, Tamora, Thaleia, Fae, Kindly Moon

El Dia de Reyes In the bottle: mmm, hazelnut mocha! Rich hot chocolate! I want to drink this! Wet on skin: mmm, now the coffee comes out! This really does smell like mocha now! Dry on skin: oh yes, this is the stuff! This smells just like a mocha with added cinnamon, and it is delicious! The coffee is perfect-not bitter at all. The chocolate is rich and creamy and has a hint of brownies to it. The cinnamon spices it up perfectly and the sugar is not of the caramel kind. This is better than Starbucks, this is continental coffee, makes me feel like I'm in Paris, sipping a chocolat chaud in a boulevard-side café with the scent of roasting coffee beans wafting around me. After a while: this then smells like mocha served with chocolate cookies or brownies, and then a sweet, creamy, almost marshmallow like note comes out. It's slightly reminiscent of the Candy Butcher but not as marshmallowy as that one was on me. This one is much more of a truer chocolate coffee scent. But then it turns into a drier chocolate scent, like a cinnamon and chocolate biscuit. The combination of chocolate and cinnamon now reminds me of MB Underbed, but not as intense. It's not as creamy and liquid as it was before but it smells like some sort of crunchy spicy-chocolaty festive biscuit treat now, and I love it. At this point, this scent also reminds me of a few delicious scents from other companies-like Possets Maggie, NA's Egyptian Delight and Blooddrop's Café Zazou. Eventually this loses the dry, rough spicy scent and turns a lot smoother, it still smells like a chocolate cookie, but now it smells less like cocoa powder and more like a coating of melted milk chocolate all over a bunch of warm spicy cookies and chocolate cake. Like Cadbury's or Galaxy chocolate all warm and melty and delicious, like a chocolate fondue in which brownies are dipped, topped with cinnamon. Mmm, this makes me want to lick my arm. I'm amazed at how much this really smells like milk chocolate now, with no plastic or fake undertones to it at all. Verdict: after Pinched, this is the kind of coffee BPAL I adore! It smells just like a mixture of delicious coffee and chocolate treats, from spicy mocha to hot chocolate with cinnamon, to festive chocolate-cinnamon biscuits to brownies served with a creamy latte. I’ve never tried Mexican hot cocoa so I can’t say if it smells like that, but it does smell like the most perfect spiced mocha for the first hour. Then it goes into a dry stage which makes me think of biscuits or cookies, it’s snappy and warm and reminds me of Underbed. And the last stage is the purest, most accurate and most delicious milk chocolate note I have ever smelt from the Lab. Very lickable. I didn’t get it from Bliss, but I get pure Cadbury’s from here, with added spice. Yum. I need more of this indulgent and delightful scent! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? oh yes! If you like this, try: Miskatonic Uni, Bliss, Velvet, 13 (any version), Candy Butcher, Boomslang, MB Underbed

La Befana In the bottle: caramelised fruit and Xmas pudding! Reminiscent of Sugar Skull. Here's to hoping this caramel doesn't turn too cloying. Wet on skin: now I can smell flowers blooming out of the sugary stickiness…lilies and violets and a little hint of smoke! Dry on skin: oh, this is really intriguing. I smell violets, candied violets just like the ones in Faith, a hint of lily (not soapy lily) and a green woodsy note that may be cypress. Between it I smell a nice, comforting scent of chimney smoke, it's subtle though-not full on smoke but a waft of it, like the faint scent of smoke and soot in the air. It's definitely coal smoke, not wood smoke. I also smell things like mince pies, Xmas pudding and maybe even a hint of Italian pannetone or panforte? The caramel note is still going strong but it's not cloying thanks to the playful complexity this scent has with all the other notes. All the notes smell different but they go together surprisingly well! After a while: this one is a morpher! Now it's turned to caramelised violets. Before it was smoky desserts and I still smell that, but now it's the violet that is becoming dominant over the caramel. This is a youthful and pretty violet, not a dusty and antique violet that smells old fashioned, this violet is lovely. I don't smell as much smoke now. Then the caramelised scent returns! There's definitely a fruity and spicy aspect to the caramel, which brings to mind plum pudding. It reminds me of Crumpet Rebellion as well! And then the violets come back. Then the sugar returns and this time it smells boozy, like there's a hint of wine or rum to it. This scent is fun, I must say. Someone described it as whimsical and I totally agree. It's festive and jolly but very different to the usual festive scents. It's a very strong scent with tons of throw as well! Eventually this settles into something reminiscent of Cockaigne and Sugar Skull 06, a scent of brown sugar, mince pies, puddings and treacle…only this time with a touch of violet which prevents the scent from being too sickly. This scent lasts for ages on me! Verdict: this is a scent that really does capture the magic of the season-it is joyful and youthful, warm and inviting, and brimming with sugar. However it's not your average festive scent. This one is unusual and magical. It brings to mind a scent of the violet perfume of a kindly grandmother mixed with the scent of sugary treats she has brought as gifts, and a touch of soot and charcoal clinging to her dress. It's a very welcoming scent. Normally I'm not into the heavy sugar/caramel scents, and this is very much a heavily caramelised scent, fruits covered in toffee and plum puddings and spicy fruitcake. But I love this. I think it's the touches of violet (which lightens it nicely), cypress and smoke that make this more interesting than the usual caramel scent. I'm not sure if I'll get another bottle because it is a heavy and very sweet scent that may get a little too much at times, but I am definitely keeping my one bottle! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? yes! This is such a unique and fun, festive fragrance! If you like this, try: Faith, Sugar Skull, Cockaigne, Drink Me, Arrival at the Sabbath, Knave of Hearts, Queen Alice