yeahbutnobut

The Clod and the Pebble In the imp: old cedar, rose and patchouli, reminds me of a mix of Wanton and Pulcinella. Wet on skin: cedar and patchouli, with a hint of spice and sandalwood. Dry on skin: mmm, now it smells a tiny bit spicier and the rose pops out a little more. this is a spicy cedar and patchouli scent with rose and a bit of sandalwood incense. the cedar note smells aged, it’s the note that reminds me of antique chests, a really rich wood note. The rose note is also gorgeous, as is the sandalwood and the hints of spice. The patchouli is also very strong, and the whole scent is earthy and dark but not dirty. This is a classic wood-rose-patchouli scent. After a while: the cedar, so dominant before, has mellowed, and now the scent is a really balanced mix of woods, patchouli and rose with a sprinkling of nutmeg. Not as strongly clove-y as El Amor, but this is quite similar. This one is heavier on the woods and rose. It smells really nice, a shadowy woody rose with warmth and depth. Over time it smells a tiny bit more like incense (I think that’s the sandalwood) and the patchouli becomes stronger as well. at times I swear I smell a hint of resin or smoke to this. The scent does get fainter-or at least, everything except the patchouli does. The patch is tinged with hints of spices, woods and incense, but it is close to the skin. Verdict: this smells like an old cedar chest full of rose petals, cloves, nutmegs and sandalwood chips. It’s like I’ve opened this ancient wooden box up after many decades or centuries of it being closed, and I’m inhaling the scent of all those spices and woods and roses that somehow have still retained their scent. It’s so rich and deep and dark and mature, earthy but not dirty. It’s a scent that smells a bit exotic, a bit antique, unisex and a bit like a scent I’d find in incense with the sandalwood and spices. It’s a lovely woodsy rose scent with the nutmeg and clove adding warmth to it. I like this a lot but I’m not sure if it’s a favourite in the woody-spicy-rose scents, I think I prefer Baghdad and Parentalia, or El Amor…I also wish this lasted a bit longer on me. I do like this one though…it’s a lot nicer and not as masculine as I expected it to be. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Maybe, maybe not. It’s a lovely scent but I prefer others on a similar theme. If you like this, try: El Amor Y La Muerte, Wanton, Rakshasa, Pulcinella and Teresina, Parentalia, Baghdad

The Passionate Shepherd To His Love In the imp: wonderful dewy greenery. It smells lovely but could turn to soap on me. Wet on skin: green green grass, with a hint of carnation and something like lily. Dry on skin: this is a lovely fresh green scent of crushed ivy and clover. It really does smell like clover, and green grass. It’s so evocative of the countryside, wildflowers and clover and fields. For now the green notes don’t seem to be turning too bitter, but it could change. There’s a touch of carnation to this which adds warmth. After a while: it seems the green notes are turning against me, as expected. It smells less bitter than most green scents, but I still get a scent of bitter stems and soapy flowers in here, along with the clover and mushy grass clippings scent. I don’t smell rose or carnation now. The scent doesn’t go too bad though, it stays bitter but isn’t screaming soapy death on me. It smells a little bit more pleasant at times, reminiscent of the grassiness of Garden Path with Chickens, but I prefer that scent. The drydown is reminiscent of Green Phoenix, but a bit more bitter and almost soapy-floral. The clover still hangs around but the bitterness isn’t really my thing. Verdict: at first, this smells like a meadow! A really lovely fresh green scent full of clover and grass with hints of flowers, such a pretty scent and so natural. Sadly, a lot of green grassy scents tend to turn bitter and soapy on me, as One to Tie taught me. And this one turns bad after an hour’s wear, when the grass note does indeed turn to unpleasant soap and waxy white flowers with wilted stems. Not nice. It’s not too bad though, as far as green-floral scents that turn soapy on me goes. But if I want grass and flowers and summer breezes, I’ll stick with Garden Path with Chickens. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No…it’s sad when the green grass scents turn bitter on me. If you like this, try: One to Tie Two to Win, Glasgow, Garden Path with Chickens, Her Voice, Green Phoenix

The Presence of Love In the imp: sour grapefruit and a hint of the jasmine which turns bad on me. Wet on skin: grapefruit and jasmine, like Biggercritters but without the vanilla. Dry on skin: grapefruit and jasmine, and a hint of rose. In fact, the rose is taking over…but it’s the jasmine that rules supreme. And it’s not the kind of jasmine that plays well on me, sadly. The grapefruit, a note I normally like, is very acidic in here, not bright and tangy in a pleasant way. And the jasmine has that bitter undertone I dislike. This has a feel of cologne to it as well, it smells like floral cologne, very perfumey. I don’t smell much white musk or amber. however, the rose could change this scent for the better, I can smell the rose note surfacing. After a while: the grapefruit fades and the rose is there, but now the jasmine smells wilted. Damn, why must my skin be so unkind to a lot of BPAL jasmine notes? It’s not the gorgeous jasmine in scents like Biggercritters or Hony Mone that I love. It turns what could be such a lovely floral note into a bitter and acrid mess in here. I don’t even smell any white musk or amber…just a sour rose overpowered by harsh jasmine. Verdict: I wish my skin chemistry could love all jasmine notes like it did when I first got into BPAL. This has the jasmine note that my skin dislikes and turns to a sharp bitter scent like dead jasmine and something a little bit chemical. I smell grapefruit, and it’s not the bright, lively grapefruit I love, but something that smells very sour. The rose is lovely, but where’s the musk and amber? this has too much ‘bad jasmine’ for me to appreciate it, so I passed it on. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No, the jasmine in here is not good on me. If you like this, try: BiggerCritters, Helena, Perfumed Garden, Phantasm, New Orleans, Eos

Love’s Philosophy In the imp: call me crazy, but this smells just like Snowblind! Vanilla and mint! Wet on skin: ah, now I get the feared wintergreen that everyone talks about…to top it off, it smells a bit like plastic too. Dry on skin: wintergreen and vanilla! Not mint any more, but a very medicinal wintergreen that reminds me of that awful medicated toothpaste my mum used to use! But with vanilla. I don’t get anything remotely Underpantastic in this scent, I don’t even smell the warm spicy saffron…I do get vanilla cream, but it’s laced with wintergreen, and I don’t like that. And the vanilla still smells plastic. After a while: thankfully the wintergreen does disappear completely after 15 minutes. And I’m left with a warm gourmand vanilla. And it’s quite nice…but it’s not exciting me as much as I hoped. It’s got an annoying plastic undertone that I’m not too crazy about. It’s not as rich or refined as other BPAL vanillas tend to be, at least, it isn’t on my skin. I find it to be a bit flat? It is a comforting scent though, and I think it may be nicer when layered with another scent. The scent is a soft milky vanilla at the end, not too different from before, but now it’s a bit too sickly sweet for me, and not as nuanced or complex as other BPAL vanillas like Snake Oil, Underpants, Antique Lace etc. It seems a little bit ‘plain vanilla’ to me, literally! Verdict: this one was a disappointment for me as well. I got the wintergreen reaction, and I really didn’t like that. Thankfully it didn’t last but the vanilla I got at the end, whilst sweet and fluffy and foody and definitely agreeable, it didn’t excite me like other BPAL vanillas. The vanilla here is not the gorgeous vanilla I loved in Black Lace or Underpants, or the sexy Snake Oil vanilla, but a really ‘vanilla’ vanilla, plain and bland (and I must say, I really don’t using this word to describe BPAL because I love Beth’s art so much). It is one dimensional to me, and a bit cloying, with a plastic note that I rarely get in BPAL vanilla. This is the first vanilla from BPAL that I would describe as ‘meh’, and I feel bad doing it (even more so than reviewing a scent that my skin chem totally screws up). I suppose this would be a better scent for layering, maybe age will bring out some complexity. But as vanilla goes, this one is not my thing. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? I may just keep a little to see if it ages, but I’m not crazy about this. If you like this, try: Tokyo Stomp, Golden Priapus, Lick It/Again/One More Time, Tombstone

La Vita Nuova In the imp: a crisp apple scent. Just a hint of bubbly and a hint of floral. Wet on skin: now it’s turning to soapy apple. This doesn’t bode well… Dry on skin: apple soap! Dammit! Why must most apple or apple blossom scents turn so bad on my skin? I don’t smell the rose, I smell very little lemon balm here and the champagne note, which I usually like, smells too sharp and sour in here. The apple blossom smells too much like a floral-apple washing up liquid or soap scent. It’s almost reminiscent of Delirium, but much soapier. After a while: ok, the soap’s got worse. Now it’s gone bitter as well. A bitter apple blossom scent that smells slightly wilted. I think I only like apple blossom when it’s weighed down with heavier or sweeter notes, like the amber in Brisingamen. But otherwise, it just goes nasty and sharp on my skin, like many apple notes do. This just turns into a sort of soapy champagne scent over time. I hoped this would be lovely and sparkly and bright, but it was not to be. Verdict: why oh why must my skin hate the apple notes? Or at least, most of them, especially where apple is the main player in the scent. And apple blossom seems to be worse on me than apple fruit-because it smells like apple-scented washing up liquid and floral air freshener. I get none of the other notes…maybe a bit of champagne and lemon, but no rose. Apple blossom takes over this scent and turns so bad on my skin in here, just soap, soap, soap…not my thing at all. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No. If you like this, try: Delirium, Hesperides, Bon Vivant, Shattered, Ladon, Eve

Longing In the imp: smells like a golden powdery sweet musk with a hint of geranium. Wet on skin: oh, I like this, soft sweet musk contrasting with warm spices and herbs. Dry on skin: mmm! This is really nice! It’s not what I expected at all, I thought this would be a rather masculine scent from the notes, but it smells beautifully unisex and a lot gentler than expected. The golden musk is the star of the scent, a warm and sweet powdery musk which glows, and has hints of amber. fringing it are notes of rosewood (a particularly nice rosewood), frankincense, geranium and a hint of bay rum which is nice and herbal in here. I also smell a touch of cinnamon, but not too much. The geranium is fantastic, reminds me of the same scent I got from the Stress Relief Elixir, but not as strong. And I do love the golden resinous warmth of the frankincense. After a while: the golden musk is fantastic in here. The scent is now dominated by the rosewood and the musk, with a layer of subtle spice to it. This is such a lovely fragrance…there’s something cosy yet luminous about the musk, and the rosewood reminds me of that note in the Winter of our Discontent, slightly spiced and a bit rosy, but not floral. The scent becomes a gorgeous and contrasting scent of mainly rosewood and musk, the wood being dark and rich and slightly bitter (in a good way), and the musk being light and sweet and powdery with a hint of something like amber. Actually, I think I know why this musk smells familiar to me…it reminds me of the musk in Morocco. I may be the only one who thinks this but the rosewood-musk reminds me of the sandalwood-musk in Morocco. Verdict: this one really surprised me…I thought this would either be too masculine or really beautiful, and thankfully it’s the latter. I love how strong-and how wonderful-the musk note in here is, it reminds me, at times, of Morocco, only a bit more powdery and with a rosewood note replacing the sandalwood. The cinnamon warms it up nicely and the frankincense and geranium are so lovely in here. I don’t get any bay rum here, just a glowing, cosy and cuddly scent of luminous musk framed by woodsy-herbal-spicy notes. I love this one. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes, I have a bottle. If you like this, try: Winter of our Discontent, Eclipse, Resurrection of the Flesh, Faustus, Parentalia, Fascinum, Morocco, Lyonesse

Parentalia In the imp: mmm, herbal incense. I smell marjoram and frankincense here. Wet on skin: now I smell rose and something sweet and balmy mixing with the herbal incense. Dry on skin: mmm, this is gorgeous! I love the dry herbal scent this has from the marjoram, it reminds me of the scent of a perfect summer’s evening on holiday somewhere warmer than here. Then there’s the frankincense, which is fabulous in here, and underneath I smell a woodsy, slightly powdery rose (powder in a good way) with an exotic spicy and slightly sweet feel that reminds me of Baghdad. I think it’s the violet making it powdery but though this smells traditional and has a feel of age, it doesn’t smell too old fashioned for me. After a while: the initial herbal-resin scent fades a little, and the slightly powdery scent of rose, violet and woods is now strong. It smells ancient and exotic, the rose is wonderfully strong now, contrasting nicely with the cedar. It now reminds me slightly of Pulcinella and Teresina, but without the thick resinous scent I got from that. This smells a little bit dusty at times, but also noble and strong, with a vintage feel to it. The scent then turns to a pleasant powdery scent of soft sweet rose and violet with a woody undertone. Verdict: this one surprised me by how beautiful it was. I was expecting something old fashioned and maybe a bit masculine, but it’s actually a really lovely unisex scent which is traditional in a very good way. First I get a blast of marjoram, mixed with frankincense it makes a fantastic herbal incense, and it made me realise how much I love those dry Mediterranean-style herbal scents. this then changes into a lovely rich woodsy scent of cedar and rose, it brings to mind a box of fragrant wood filled with old rose petals, like a keepsake or heirloom from a distant relative. It’s a strong, solid scent with a feel of something vintage and classic, and a has lovely balmy warmth to it. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes, I got a bottle of this one. If you like this, try: Arcana, Baghdad, Wanton, Marie, Pulcinella and Teresina, Scales of Deprivation, Clod and the Pebble

Madame Tracy In the imp: traditional rose-violet perfume…it’s a little bit sharp. Wet on skin: now I smell the geranium and a little bit of lily. Dry: not bad! This is a very pretty, if a little bit traditional, rose-violet perfume warmed up with gentle geranium. The lily of the valley isn’t turning too soapy yet, and it’s not as sharp and biting as Marie when it comes to rose-violet scents. It’s quite lovely but maybe a little old fashioned for me? After a while: now this gets soapy (the lily of the valley, I think) and a little bit too dusty and stuffy for me. There’s a floral note here I can’t identify (ume? It’s the only one on the notes list I’ve not smelt before) which is turning to something disturbingly like potpourri on me, and it’s very strong and sharp and dusty and old-smelling. And it smells a bit like public toilet soap. The violet is also overtaking. This perfume is mature, but a little too mature for me to pull off-I much prefer Atrocious Attic, which has that gorgeous creamy sweetness softening the dusty flowers. It then turns into a dry, thin scent of potpourri and dry rose petals with a spritz of air freshener…not the kind of floral I like. Verdict: this was really bad on me, sadly. I thought the rose, geranium and heliotrope would make this at least wearable on me, but something in here goes really bad and fake-smelling on me. it’s not the violet, even though the violet here is not the sweet version I enjoy but the dusty-musty one I don’t like…but there’s something in here that turns to really bad soap on me, I’m guessing the lily of the valley. It smells like air freshener, an artificial and cloying floral scent with a dusty potpourri scent to it. And it’s a shame because I really like the character it’s named after! Oh well, it could be worse. It could smell like Brussels sprouts! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No. If you like this, try: Atrocious Attic, Marie, Victoria, Hymn, Monna Vanna

Haloes In the imp: oh my…this is gorgeous. Sweet creamy glowing vanilla with something else, maybe amber. Wet on skin: now I can smell hints of lily, tonka, woods and maybe apricot, a little bit of ginger. Dry: a little greener, a little more floral, but still gorgeous. I smell more of the oak now, as well as the lily (please don’t go soapy on me) but surrounding this green, springy scent is a smooth sweetness that just glows. It’s a wonderful merging of vanilla, amber and tonka with sandalwood which is seamless, nothing stands out, and it’s very sophisticated. The tonka makes this very grown up and classy in scent. There’s something to this which is along similar lines to Fairy Market (but with different notes), this mix of ethereal sweetness with a green touch. After a while: ok, now I adore, and I mean ADORE the scent that I smell when I smell this from a distance. It’s a halo (naturally) of sweet gorgeousness-a mix of vanilla, amber and tonka so smooth that you can’t tell them apart. However when I smell my wrist, all I get is dry green oak! Hmm, what’s up with that? However, that oaky stage does die down after about five minutes and now when I smell my wrist I get that magnificent vanilla sweetness there too. Oh yes, this is love! The oak adds a hint of dry greenness but underneath it is that warm, slightly creamy, and rich vanilla-amber-tonka. Something about this now reminds me of Lyonesse, but without the moss and musk. I can’t stop sniffing this! This gets sweeter, lovelier and more tonka-scented over time. It’s just a divine mix of vanilla and tonka given a golden sheen by the amber and with a dry oak backing and a hint of floral. It smells so well blended. It definitely has a classic perfume feel to it too, and that’s a compliment. Verdict: this is a new favourite. One of the most beautiful BPAL scents of the vanilla-amber theme. Sweet but not cloying, floral but not soapy, luminous with amber, warm vanilla and deep tonka with woods and flowers and apricot adding more complexity. At first I fear that the oak will ruin this for me but then that note fades a little and then the scent becomes a really seamless blend of the amber, vanilla and tonka. This scent, as the name implies, glows off the skin, and has incredible throw, it’s like I’m radiating a beautiful sweet aura of fragrance when I wear this. This smells almost like something expensive and masterfully crafted that would normally cost the earth, it is so well blended and so well balanced. It feels luxurious. It’s also very different to other BPALs with amber, vanilla and tonka, this is unique. I don’t think a half-decant of this scent will be enough, I need more! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes-I want a bottle of this asap! If you like this, try: Glowing Vulva, Mouse’s Long Sad Tale, Fairy Market, Tamora, Lyonesse

Egg’d Mailbox In the imp: yup, this does smell like sweet custard! And maybe even meringues! Wet on skin: now it smells a tiny bit floral? It’s very pretty! Dry: this is a very pretty scent indeed! No eggs, but definite hints of eggy desserts like custard, meringue and flan. However, it’s not all foody. There’s a floral edge to it, which has hints of carnation (which boosts/is enhanced by the slight hint of spice the scent has) and a sweet Asian floral (cherry blossom or rice flower perhaps?), but also a brighter, sharper, fresh floral which is a tiny bit metallic, almost hinting at the perfumey scent I get from the metal scents. But the custard/flan scent gives this a fluffy, creamy, sweet scent. This is really lovely. After a while: oh, this gets better. That floral/fresh perfume scent is a lot more subtle now and this scent has gone back to it’s creamy stage. It smells like vanilla custard and crème brulee (but I don’t smell caramel) but there’s that hint of carnation to it which is so lovely. I also smell a sweet fluffy something (can’t say what) which reminds me of Marshmallow Poof, only a little bit creamier and without that odd ‘doll head’ scent I got from MP. But this seems like a sister to MP, almost like the naughty version of the Poof. It’s a warm scent too, with that spicy hint of clove/carnation, maybe even some nutmeg too (hmm, perhaps there’s some eggnog here too?) It’s very unique and I can’t think of many other scents that smell similar, actually. The scent moves between smelling of carnations and eggnog with interludes of custard. It’s really delicious but not sickly sweet. The drydown is a soft powdered sugar scent like crumbly meringues. Verdict: the description for this scent sounded least appealing. But this is my favourite of the Trick or Treat 07 scents! of course it doesn’t smell of egged mailboxes, it smells like the loveliest mix of custard and flan and crème brulee, with a touch of meringue powder. All the loveliest egg based desserts, hints of vanilla and spice, a splash of eggnog, and even some carnation (that could be a clove note, but it smells more floral to me) to stop the scent from being too foody. This is such a fun scent, a highly original and delicious gourmand scent and I’m so glad I was able to swap for a bottle of it! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes, I swapped my Poof for it, and I’m really pleased I did.

Mistletoe 07 In the imp: Christmas tree, just like the last version…but this one is sweeter. Wet on skin: Christmas tree with hints of something vaguely floral or fruity? Dry: mmm, smells just like a Christmas tree. Warm pine needles, fir needles, spruce needles…it’s evergreen but without snowy coldness. This is a tree inside a house waiting to be decorated. There’s something else to it which I didn’t get last year…other notes I can’t identify but it’s a bit lemony, a bit floral, a bit sweet and I also fear it may turn a little soapy… After a while: ack…pine soap! This doesn’t turn to gorgeous pure fir tree, nor does my skin eat this up like last year. Now it smells like pine cleanser, with a nasty washing powdery scent to it, a little lemony and soapy…almost like powdery ozone. No, this is ozone…I even smell that crackly electric smell in it. This now smells like Slobbering Pine without the moss. The pine/fir scent fades away and this turns into pure ozone-y detergent, even with that ‘burnt air’ scent I smell around office appliances, the kind of scent I’d expect with stormy scents, not a festive mistletoe one! Verdict: I really liked Mistletoe 05, because it smelt like pure essence of Christmas tree, and nothing else. It was short lived though. This one lasts a lot longer on me, but is nowhere near as nice as the 05 version. This smells like lightning-struck mistletoe on me! Yup, fir notes mixed with ozone…and ozone that turns straight to washing powder on me. Now theoretically, Christmas tree scented washing powder would be a wonderful idea…for washing powder and clean linen. But sadly, not for my skin. I sold my decant to someone who would appreciate the scent better. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No. If you like this, try: Snow Storm, Slobbering Pine, Yew Trees, Jolasveinar, Shivering Boy, Old Moon

Autumn In the imp: decayed autumn leaves and osmanthus. Wet on skin: a truer autumn leaf scent than that of October, with osmanthus and a little bit of rose. Dry: mmm, this smells like autumn rain! There’s a lovely watery quality to this scent which makes me think of raindrops hanging on tree branches, and the leafy note is strong, but very different to October’s, there’s no cologne to it, and it smells more genuinely like autumn leaves. There’s also a melancholy floral scent to it, the last roses of the season, with a hint of sharp osmanthus. I also smell the sandalwood, which is not as warm and spicy as usual, this is more like a natural barky wood scent. After a while: now I smell a clear, yet woodsy scent. it’s odd to describe but imagine that wood was glassy and transparent…that’s what I get here, a woody green scent which is clear and watery, a little mossy, leafy and floral. The osmanthus is stronger now but doesn’t amp on me like it sometimes does. This reminds me of Ouija now, but also of the Twisted Oak Tree-the woodsy scent with that watery sheen over it reminds me of TOT but without the harsh wintergreen I got from that scent-this is what I hoped TOT would smell like, actually. It reminds me of an oak tree with leaves falling, bark, leaf, wood and soil. The scent’s green, watery woody scent becomes stronger over time and it really does smell like a much nicer, less medicinal TOT to me. Cool and rainy and with an earthiness, and also a melancholy feel to it. Verdict: this really does smell like autumn, much more than October did. Though it’s a more floral autumn scent than usual, with the rose and osmanthus notes, the autumn leaves note in here is much more genuine, I think, than October’s…it smells just like mushy wet leaves, and there’s a woodsy note that smells less like sandalwood and more like oak. There’s also a pure watery scent-maybe part of the osmanthus note-which evokes cold clean rain falling on those leaves and trees. It’s not my favourite of the autumn scents as the osmanthus and oak amp a little bit too much for me, but it’s another beautiful scented interpretation of a beautiful season. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Not sure. I prefer Death of Autumn when it comes to smelling of autumn, but this leaf note in here is very true. If you like this, try: Ouija, October, Ivanushka, Death of Autumn, Rakshasa, Destroying Angel, Twisted Oak Tree

A Farewell to False Love In the imp: heavy thick lavender. Maybe with some violet. Wet on skin: lots of lavender, and something a little bit smoky. Dry on skin: lavender incense and narcissus. The lavender in here is not a soft gentle type, but an intense and slightly soporific lavender like the ones in the sleep scents. it smells like it’s wrapped up in opium smoke, even though there’s no mention of that in the notes. The narcissus is definitely there, a crisp yet sophisticated scent which is slightly perfumey and slightly springy. I have no idea what balsam of Peru smells like but I think it may be what’s making this smell deep and smoky? I also smell a hint of violet, a gentle and pretty violet. After a while: once the lavender fades, the scent is a bitter, melancholy narcissus. It smells a bit wilted and not as nice as it can be, but it lends an atmosphere to the scent. The violet is still there, but also not as strong as before. I think, underneath the narcissus, I smell what could be the balsam, it’s an interesting scent that’s a bit spicy, a bit smoky, a tiny bit sweet and almost incense-like but not quite. Then the narcissus does something odd…it turns into a wilted scent which has a hint of cloying sweetness to it. I’ve not had narcissus do this before. It reminds me of what my skin does to lilac and plum blossom, only this time with a hint of dark smoky perfumey floral which has opium-like tones to it. It’s a strange scent and I’m not sure I like it. Verdict: I’m not crazy about this one. The lavender intro was nice, with a smoky lavender incense scent with hints of the sweet violet note I like and some narcissus and balsam, but then when the lavender goes, the narcissus goes really odd on me…all bitter and wilted, like a dying flower. It’s a thoughtful scent, melancholy and dark, but I’m really not keen on what the flowers in here are doing, smelling like dead blooms on my skin. I’ll have to bid this scent farewell and pass it on to someone else. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No. If you like this, try: Old Scratch, Gaueko, Kalaharantrika, Darkness, Melancholia

The Spell of Amorous Love In the imp: green tea and plum blossom. Wet on skin: here comes the sake! With tea and blossoms, this is the quintessential Japanese scent. Dry on skin: now the juicy red tartness of currant adds a fruity scent to it all. This is very pretty! Tangy green tea and currant, gentle cherry and plum blossom and a boozy twist of sake. It’s very evocative of Japan, and it smells light and sweet but also crisp and sharp because of the currants and green tea. The plum blossom, as usual, is bound to overtake this scent…it’s already starting to smell a little too sweet. After a while: damn you plum blossom, why must you always do this? Yup, as expected, the plum blossom turns sickly sweet, and also smells like it is wilting in here. The sake note is also turning strange on me, it smells almost like gin now (what the?) and there’s no sign of the currant in here now. The scent ends up smelling like two blossoms, one which I love (cherry blossom-it was Cheshire Moon that really made me love this floral note) and one which I don’t like much (wilted plum blossom) with a hint of red currant. Verdict: a lot of the Japanese scents don’t work on me because of one note that almost always does bad things on me-plum blossom. And this one has loads of it. It starts off nicely as a very Asian blend of tea, sake and cherry blossoms, a gentle, graceful and evocative fragrance. But then plum blossom bullies the other notes into submission and turns cloying and overpowering. The scent ends up as cherry and plum blossom, and I wish the cherry blossom could come out more because this is one of my new blossom loves. But plum flower won’t let that happen. So this one will be passed on to someone who’ll appreciate the scent more than me, with my plum blossom hating skin. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No. If you like this, try: Tanuki, Budding Moon, Kyoto, Earth Rat, Lantern Ghost of Oiwa, Fire Pig, Cheshire Moon

Butterflies and Plovers In the imp: violet! No orange or amber, just violet and patchouli. Wet on skin: now I smell the orange! But violet and patchouli are still dominant. Dry on skin: gorgeous fizzy blood orange and mandarin mixed with powdery violet and a dry patchouli that smells like dusty earth. There’s a hint of tart nectarine too. This actually reminds me of a less heavy version of a Countenance Foreboding Evil, which is probably due to the orange, ylang and patchouli mix. The orange is then blocked out by the mandarin, which wants to be the dominant citrus in here and smells just like mandarin should-freshly peeled and juicy. Then I smell something almost like hay or straw…no idea what that is. I don’t smell amber yet. This reminds me of Clio now, but I prefer Clio because of the parchment scent. After a while: where’s the amber that was promised? Now it reminds me of Clio even more, but a bit less dirty/earthy, and with a lot of violet. I’m not crazy about this kind of violet though, it’s not a sweet violet like La Befana, but a dusty ‘old smelling’ violet, it smells a bit dusty and grey, and wilted. One of the citrus notes-which I normally love-has turned to a strange dry peel and straw scent. Underneath is the dry patchouli. This seems to fade fast…or at least, all but the patchouli seem to fade away from my skin quickly. No more orange now, very little in the way of nectarine or even violet…now I just smell the slightest hint of patchouli. Verdict: I was hoping this would be like Angeronalia but with a more violet-y feel and a lovely amber background, but it wasn’t on me. This smells like a lighter Countenance Foreboding Evil on me, without vetiver but with a very musty violet in it’s place, it’s not the gentle sweet violet note I like. The citrus notes are lovely, but they are soon drowned out by the smell of dusty flowers and dry dirt from the patchouli, and there’s no amber showing up at all. I was disappointed by this one-and it didn’t last long on me either. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Not really. If you like this, try: A Countenance Foreboding Evil, Angeronalia, Clio, Le Serpent Qui Danse, Ultraviolet

Moon of Ice In the bottle: cold pine with a hint of cold soapy flowers…reminds me of Sleet soap, but sweeter. Wet on skin: crisp and icy, reminds me of a cross between Ice Queen and Long Night Moon. Dry on skin: mmm, this is quite nice! There’s a snowy/icy note to it that chills the nose, it’s slightly reminiscent of Long Night Moon, but fresher and colder. There are snowy flowers here, almost like those of Snow Flakes maybe like Ice Queen, but the pine and eucalyptus make this one a little bit different. The pine seems to linger the boundary of smelling good and smelling like disinfectant, and the eucalyptus here doesn’t smell too strong, but it does add to the clear ‘winter wind’ scent this has. After a while: oh, this one confuses me. At times the icy florals in here are gorgeous-a gentle sweet cold floral scent with a hint of something almost like chilled melon to it. It reminds me of Ice Queen, there’s a hint of that icy white musk to it, also reminds me of Nuclear Winter. But then I smell a bitter scent underneath that I’m not keen on, a bit like salty olives? It’s probably an evergreen note because I get a similar reaction in Old Moon, but in here it’s not as strong. The scent gets sweeter and more delicate, almost losing that bitterness and turning to that sugary snow scent that I love. It’s like Ice Queen or Talvikuu’s younger sister. And I smell something that I’m sure is white amber! And I do love white amber…but then that bitter green note returns. Dammit. The scent fluctuates between icy sweet flowers and that strange bitter note every now and then. Verdict: this is another one of BPAL’s icy scents, with that cracking icy/snowy note that I love. This isn’t my favourite (that position is still ruled over by the likes of Snow Flakes, Wolf Moon 07 and Ice Queen) but it’s actually quite similar to Ice Queen at times. There’s a pine note that seemed a little soapy at one point but then faded, and a fresh, clearing note of eucalyptus which doesn’t smell at all medicinal. There’s also an odd bitter note that sometimes pops up and prevents me from truly enjoying this scent. but the scent I love most in here is that of the flowers, covered with cold sugariness which is white, fluffy, sweet and cool. It’s like sweet Snow White like flowers crystallised with frozen sugar, with a hint of something like mint to add more coolness and a bit of a watery note, like cucumber. This is what I love about the BPAL ice/snow scents, that sweet floral and sugared ice scent, but that annoying, bitter green note (probably an evergreen note gone bad on my skin) that I get in here at times does detract from the scent’s overall chilly beauty. I think I’ll stick with my other ice scents, but I’m glad I gave this a try. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? I’m unsure. I like it but I think I prefer some of the other snowy scents to this. If you like this, try: Old Moon, Long Night Moon, Snow Flakes, Cloister Graveyard, Archangel Winter, Hunger Moon

The Dream of the Fisherman’s Wife In the imp: honeyed sandalwood incense and murky aquatics? This smells so intriguing! Wet on skin: incense and flowers? I have no idea why I smell those in here. Dry on skin: now this smells really perfumey but also like sandalwood incense and honey. It reminds me of the honeyed dark sandalwood incense in the Masque, believe it or not. But I also smell something heady and floral, or even musky. And lots of ambergris too, which is a much stronger ambergris note than usual, and it smells like expensive perfume in here, like something my mum would wear! I also smell the scent of aquatic notes, seaweed and a bit more…I smell salt and a bit of the sophisticated aquatic note that was in City in the Sea. I don’t smell any mint. After a while: still perfumey and rich. I really like this one because it smells very grown up and sophisticated now, and rather sexy, I must say. The honey smells like dark honey incense. There’s definitely more to this than seaweed, honey and ambergris…I swear there’s a musk note, reminiscent of Arabian musk (or is it Egyptian musk) in here. And something floral too. Either that or the ambergris in here is particularly strong. There’s a salty and fresh overtone to it, an aquatic note that isn’t soapy but deep and mature, almost like an expensive sun lotion scent, with a hint of the scent of the beach. I’m surprised as to how much this smells like an exotic-themed high-end perfume, but with a hint of something marine to it. Call me crazy, but the drydown smells very similar to Arcana’s Queen Crossbones! Yes! that honeyed exotic musk scent! Only in here there’s seaweed instead of coconut. Verdict: this scent was not what I expected at all. I had no idea what a honeyed aquatic would smell like on me. there’s honey in here, oh yes. there’s some seaweed, though it’s more of a sea scent as a whole. And I do smell ambergris, lots of that, and it’s a lot more amber-y than usual. But I wasn’t expecting this to smell like ‘oriental’ perfume, of all things…but it does. I smell sensual musk (or something like it) undulating through this scent, mixed with sandalwood incense and spices, mingling effortlessly with the honey and the sea notes. It smells a bit like the Masque, but with a marine feel to it. It’s a really unusual scent but it works. It smells grown up and classy, and very sexy. It makes me think of a mermaid belly dancer (that’s the best way I can describe this). It does smell a bit too perfumey for me at times (I think that’s the sea note-but it’s one of the nicest sea notes in BPAL) and it reminds me so much of Arcana’s Queen Crossbones at drydown which I prefer. But I am definitely keeping my decant of this wonderfully different take on the aquatic theme. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Just the decant for now. This is really unusual. If you like this, try: The Masque, O, Sea of Glass, Aeaea, Skuld

Ebisu Making Love as Two Octopuses Look On In the imp: really sharp nectarine! Wet on skin: very sharp nectarine, not a sweet nectarine scent. Also, a hint of moss. Dry on skin: whoa, this nectarine bites! I was hoping for a sweet peachy scent but this is very tangy, tart, dry nectarine, too sharp for me…it’s almost acidic. It’s got a really high-pitched feel to it, a little too shrill. It reminds me slightly of Angeronalia’s nectarine but I much preferred it in there, tempered by the other notes in that scent. In here, I barely even smell the musk, and the moss is very quiet as well. After a while: still the same, that shrill nectarine note which smells a little perfumey now. I smell a hint of the powdery skin musk or moss, but it’s not changed much from before. Maybe it’s a bit drier, lacking the juicy scent that came before, and it’s a bit fuzzier (like a peach). The scent becomes very perfumey at drydown. It’s now a skin musk-nectarine scent but there’s no sweetness to it at all, which, I think, is what this scent needs. It’s much too strident and shrill on me. Verdict: I thought I liked peach and nectarine notes, but this one has the sharpest peach scent I’ve ever smelt, in BPAL at least. It’s all nectarine, all the time, and it’s such a tart, sour note, almost like an unripe peach, no sweetness here whatsoever. It’s so sharp it almost shrieks, it is a piercing note. And it also has a perfumey tone to it which I don’t like. I get hardly any moss or musk here. this scent, despite promises of octo-porn, was a disappointment on me…at least Dream of the Fisherman’s Wife is a keeper! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? No. If you like this, try: Angeronalia, Tamamo No Mae, Butterflies and Plovers, Croquet, Silence

Men Ringing Bell with Penises In the imp: a lovely lush green tea and moss scent. Wet on skin: tangy tea with a green mossy woody scent, and a hint of rice wine. Dry on skin: a scent reminiscent of a lush Asian landscape of bamboo, and a tea ceremony. The tea is strong here, it smells more like green/white tea than black tea, with that astringent freshness. I agree with the comparison to Tamamo. The green sandalwood is really interesting, as it smells like young wood, fresh cut timber, still green and sappy, and I smell the moss growing on it’s bark. The rice wine is very similar to Hungry Ghost Moon, only this scent is simpler and more about the greenness. I don’t smell tonka yet. After a while: the moss now becomes much stronger. Less like light powdery oak moss, this is a thicker, wetter, more humid moss smell now, a bit like Spanish moss. The tea isn’t as strong now, at this point the scent is all about wood and moss. Green moss covering a tree. Maybe just a hint of rice wine but no much. Not much tonka either. This is a very warm moss smell, like a humid summer’s night, close and a bit steamy, almost like jungle greenery, or a swamp. I must be having a nose-hallucination because at times I swear this reminds me of Whippoorwill. I think it’s the moss and the almost bamboo like scent this has. The scent does seem to fade fast, leaving just a trace of moss on the skin as it fades. Verdict: this is a lovely scent, and I love the name (I call it ‘Men Dinging Bell with Dongs’!) it’s not my favourite of the tea/moss scents, but it is very pleasant. It starts off as tea and rice wine with a hint of moss. Incredibly green but in a different way to the grassy scents, this is the kind of greenness I prefer. It’s one of those classic Asian scents, fresh and well balanced with notes of tea and bamboo. I really like the sandalwood here as well. I hoped this would develop a sweetness though, especially with the tonka, but it doesn’t smell sweet on me, and it gets a little bit too mossy at the end, when the moss seems to take over all the other notes, with it’s damp swampy scent. It doesn’t last long either. I like it but not enough to get a bottle. At least I have Glowing Vulva as my naughty Japanese scent of choice. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Not really-I like Ding-Dong but I have other favourites. If you like this, try: Faiza, Hungry Ghost Moon, Tamamo No Mae, Habu, Roux Ga Roux, Cathode

Glowing Vulva at Ryogoku Bridge In the imp: patchouli? I have no idea why I smell patch in here but it’s a woody sweet creamy scent. Wet on skin: gorgeous sweet cream-nothing sour at all-with a deep woody amber base. Dry on skin: oh wow, this is beautiful! The amber is just GLOWING off my wrist (sorry, couldn’t resist it) with a golden aura, softened by a sweet, almost vanilla-scented cream, the kind of cream scent I love. In fact, it’s a similar amber to Sea of Tranquillity, which must be because of the lotus. It’s gorgeous. Underneath it I smell teak, a rich exotic wood, but I swear there’s a smidge of patchouli here, it’s too deep and musky to be just teak. Or maybe it’s musk? This does remind me of Haloes, not as ethereal and floral-fruity but the woody creamy amber is similar. After a while: this gets smoother and more sophisticated. The amber and cream have merged beautifully and rest on that warm woody dark base, and there’s something to this that reminds me of tonka now, almost like a classy vanilla with a very rich sweetness that isn’t foody. The amber just gets better and better in here. At the end it smells like the most amazing mix of glorious sweet creamy amber with a shadow of woodsy patchouli (yeah I know, it’s not listed, but I smell it in here), and it’s amazing, very feminine with a hint of lotus adding floral lushness. This then dries down to a lovely mix of wood, cream and amber and an amazing sweetness which is almost like vanilla, almost like tonka. Verdict: this is my favourite of the Shunga series, and one of my favourite of this year’s Lupercalia scents. this is one of the most stunning creamy amber scents ever, with an undertone of deep sweet wood. The amber in here is magnificent-golden and luminous, and made even more sublime by the cream which, in here, is not sour at all. The perfect creaminess married with the perfect amber. not just amber, but amber and lotus, a combination I adore. Underneath that I smell not only teak but hints of patchouli and vanilla or tonka. The result is a glorious scent which smells incredibly luxurious, feminine, voluptuous and perfect. Could this be the new Underpants-like scentsation? I wouldn’t be surprised-considering the name this scent has! And the name will make for some fun layering combos, double-entendre filled sentences and aghast faces when I tell people what I’m wearing…I have a bottle coming and want another one! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes! I need a bottle or two of Vulva! (that sounds so wrong…) If you like this, try: Haloes, Sea of Tranquillity, Bastet, Dana O’Shee, O, Underpants (if you can get it!)

I Married a Vampire from Planet X In the imp: sexy amber-myrrh with spices and musk. Reminds me of Count Dracula, but smoother. Wet on skin: gorgeous spicy amber-musk! Dry on skin: now I smell the lighter ‘space’ notes, the white musk, the sage, hints of citrus, all forming an ethereal layer over a wonderful dark scent of amber, myrrh, musk and spices with a hint of leather and a sexy sweetness. This is a stunning scent! The lighter notes, at times reminiscent of 51, don’t clash with the dark ones, they add a glowing, fresh dimension to the deeper notes. The spicy dark musky-resin scent is breathtaking stuff. The black amber reminds me slightly of the Emathides, the spices are warm and delicious, and the sweet, almost vanilla-tonka sweet, leathery musk is reminiscent of Crowley or even Smut. After a while: the dragon’s blood, normally a note I dislike, is really good in here. In fact, it reminds me of the DB in Red Moon, which I love. I think it’s the combination of amber and DB that does this. Over time this reminds me more and more of Red Moon 07, but this is both darker and also fresher than that. The white musk and black musk contrast and complement each other and at times they smell like red musk. The citrus is gone but the sweet melon is there, as is the sage. The dark sweet amber and DB are fantastic together, I don’t get as much obvious spice now but the cinnamon and clove are still around…the Crowley-like leather underscores it all. At drydown it goes into another leathery stage before returning to it’s Red Moon-like scent at the end, a darker version of RM, dragon’s blood and musky amber with a hint of smoke. Mmm. Verdict: mmm, smelling like a vampire with laser beam eyes from outer space is more wonderful than I expected. The two different aspects of this scent-the light musk paired with fruity and green notes and the rich musky resinous leather-go together surprisingly well. I love the smouldering shadowy notes of this scent, with a dragon’s blood note that actually works on me (yay), a totally irresistible black amber and musk, and sexy leather and a spicy kick, but hovering over the top is the citrus and white musk and tea which at times takes the edge off the dark notes and adds a very interesting contrasting layer to the fragrance, at other times it merges nicely with the base notes and makes this scent sleeker and adds a silvery-green sheen to the spicy deep notes. At times this reminds me of Red Moon 07 with hints of Crowley, which is a very good thing. I could see this as being devastatingly delicious on a man, but I love it on me…this spaced-out sexy scent is really out of this world! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Definitely! I have two bottles! If you like this, try: Crowley, 51, Smut, Red Moon 07, Count Dracula, Sin, Priala, Emathides, High Priest Not To Be Described

Diary of a Lovestruck Teenage Cannibal In the imp: sweet creamy buttery ginger and citrus, reminds me of Pumpkin V. Wet on skin: now I smell the pink pepper, which reminds me of Hermia! Dry on skin: mmm, this is wonderful! This smells like Hermia’s sweeter, younger, feistier (and more cannibalistic) sister. The pink pepper is the dominant note, a sparkly, bright and lively pepper note, along with spicy ginger giving it a kick, and a hint of lemon and grapefruit. Underneath I smell clotted cream (like the stuff served with scones, slightly buttery but not sour cream at all) and sweet candyfloss sugar, as well as some pear. I think the lily keeps all the gourmand notes in check, stops this from smelling too foody. But this is spiced sugar at it’s best! After a while: the pepper in here is gorgeous, a very multifaceted pepper with slight incense-like tones. The ginger doesn’t turn to rubber on me. Now I smell more of the pear, a sweet pear dusted with sugar, with hints of cream and a lily note that doesn’t turn to soap or sharpness on me. This is truly delectable! Then the sugar becomes warmer and it seems the spices melt into the sweet notes, and everything mixes very nicely together so no one note stands out…it’s just a gorgeous warm spiced sweetness which is actually not as foody as one would expect, despite it smelling very sugary. The drydown is very much like Treat 1…but better. It doesn’t have the cloying note from Treat 1 (I think it was strawberry) and is beautifully tempered by the remaining spices. In fact it smells like a pink lemonade ice cream float! Verdict: this is my new favourite foody scent! This is a really fun and cheerful fragrance, and it’s also a very balanced gourmand scent, not cloying or over-sweet. It’s full of sassy spices like ginger and pink pepper (fast becoming one of my favourite spice notes) with a gorgeous mix of youthful candyfloss sugar and soft vanilla cream, and a lovely fruity scent of grapefruit, lemon and grapefruit. I think the lily is what stops this from smelling too foody, but it’s a lily that behaves very well on me (no soapy reaction). And I love what the spices do to the sugary notes in here. It then dries down to spicy candy floss with a hint of ice cream and lemonade, and I love that. I am so glad I was able to get a bottle and backup because I know I will be wearing this a lot. Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes! I’m glad I got two bottles! If you like this, try: Hermia, Pumpkin V, Xanthe, Bloody Mary, Pumpkin Queen, Shub Niggurath

Cheshire Moon In the imp: a soft scent of cake, fruit and flowers. Slightly creamy. Wet on skin: now it smells much more floral…there’s a strong note that’s almost like bubble bath? Dry on skin: oh, this is lovely! This smells like summer! I can smell cherry blossom, some guava (though not as sweet as Xanthe), and a note very similar to fig leaf, like the fig in Uruk. I think I also smell hibiscus, and for some reason I also smell bamboo…there’s something very lunar indeed, like Gibbous Moon or Blue Moon, to this, along with lots of bright and fresh and youthful fruits and flowers. This makes me happy and brings to mind summer holidays, it’s a really multicoloured scent (that’s the best way I can describe it!) After a while: the fig leaf-like note, I’m guessing the banyan, is really strong now! As is the cherry blossom, which is gorgeous in here, a soft sweet pink floral. This reminds me of the good bits of Tanuki without the notes that went bad on me, as well as a hint of soft lunar flowers and plants which cast a calming silvery glow over this colourful, zany scent. Over time I smell more of the guava, and the scent changes from green-pink to a purer pink, with hints of bamboo-like lunar notes and fig leaf. It sweetens very nicely now, the greenness isn’t too prominent and the scent is now really soft and pretty. The drydown is oddly woodsy (in a good way) and is actually like moonflower and bamboo with cherry blossom and exotic jungle greenery. This one is quite the morpher and for a scent that’s so light in feel, lasts for ages! It still smells lovely the next morning. Every time I sniff this, I love it more. Verdict: this has grown to become one of my favourite moon scents! It starts off smelling strongly green but also fruity and floral and sweet, it smells lively and youthful thanks to the grapefruit and guava, but not too sugary-there’s a background of fresh, bright and cool notes, I think they are lunar herbs, as they remind me of the base of the likes of Blue Moon etc, they seem to ground the scent. Then the cherry blossom note comes out and really shows off. This note, in the right scent, can be so pretty, as it is in here. The gentle pinkness of the cherry blossom and guava with that silver-blue background of moon-themed notes is wonderful, and it’s such a cheery, carefree scent. I will be wearing this so much once the weather warms up. This scent makes me grin like a Cheshire cat-and I think I may prefer this to the Cheshire Cat scent! I’m so glad I have a bottle, with another on order! Emoticon rating: Is it a keeper? Yes! This is one of my favourite ‘lunar herbs’ scents! If you like this, try: Cheshire Cat, Schrodinger’s Cat, Blue Moon, Gibbous Moon, Uruk, Xanthe, Lantern Ghost of Oiwa, Tanuki

Ignis In bottle: ylang-ylang and patchouli with a bit of mandarin. On skin: mmm, this is a very warm scent, warm and soothing, not hot and flaming, not full of spice, but a flickering, seductive flame, entrancing and pulling you in. the ylang is the dominant note, not a sharp ylang but a soft, sweet one with a hint of sexy headiness. It reminds me of Seduction, but here there are other notes to deepen and enhance the ylang. I can smell lots of myrrh now, smells just like my myrrh essential oil, and also a hint of patchouli. I smell a hint of citrus from the mandarin, and a lemony-herbal palmarosa scent, and a lovely warm soft spice from the clove. Over time I get a hint of smoke-not too much but just enough to add a hint of incense to the scent, but the mandarin note also becomes brighter and more sparkly, a zingy citrus over a seductive floral-spice incense. Gorgeous! I don’t feel the need to use this oil for it’s seductive purposes right now (I have no man to give me a sensual massage at the moment…) but it is my favourite of the oils. Probably because I’m a fire sign. But I love the spicy-resinous-citrus scent and the way the oil makes my skin feel.

Terrae In bottle: vetiver? The patchouli is very similar to the patch usually paired up with vetiver in other BPALs. It’s dark and dirty. On skin: whoa, this is amazing stuff. Now the spikenard comes out and, along with the myrrh, gives the scent a wonderful incense feel, mixed with a hint of dirt and musk. I smell the moss and patchouli, the patch here being much more intense than the one in Ignis. There’s a surprising light sweetness that I can smell here, I also think the myrrh here is sweeter and deeper than the one in Ignis (which is a little smoky). It’s also a little powdery (in a good way). This reminds me of the BPAL Dance of Death, and also reminds me a little bit of Lush Tramp (I think the two scents will layer fantastically) but with a bit more sweetness. I love the spikenard in here, and the slightly amber-like scent I get from the myrrh. This definitely is an earthy, grounding scent. As usual, I love the texture of the oil as well. a great accompaniment to the earthier, dirtier BPAL scents and a nice scent to unwind with.