Clémence

[shriekingviolet]

Patchouli, Kashmiri tea, cardamom, black pepper, carnation, and clove.

Initial Impression:
Earthy patchouli spiked with cardamom and black pepper.

After Wearing It:
First applied, Clémence is a lotta patchouli. Not the sweet and smooth kind that I typically favor, but the really dirty kind that reminds me of head shops, sweat and raw hide. There was also a harsh shot of black pepper that runs through the blend like sharp slap across the face of the fragrance. It was very appropo given the imagery created for the blend and the painting's historical source of inspiration, Theresa Berkley. It was very raw and aggressive, to the point of being disconcerting, and one could very easily imagine a hot back room of an 19th century brothel smelling like this. The raw, almost leathery quality of the patchouli note was like the rub of a worn pair of leather cuffs, the pepper like the sting of the whip.

The initial stage of the scent, while wildly evocative and very appropriate for the theme of the set and the painting, wasn't very me. So I was very happy and a little relieved when Cleménce started to mellow out about twenty minutes after the first application. Slowly, the cardamom, carnation and clove started to come to the forefront, sweetening the blend and smoothing out all of its rough edges. The patchouli took on a more honeyed quality that I loved while retaining its earthiness, and Clémence evolved from a scent of harsh pleasures into something much more comforting. It became enticingly spicy and slightly sweet, but grounded in a rich earthiness. The tea note built slowly after the first hour as the patchouli grew softer, and by the end of hour two, the blend smelled like a really good cup of chai. Not too strong or foody, but warm and soothing with just the right balance of sugar and spice. The scent envelopes you like a fuzzy blanket. It's like the imbodiment of a rainy Saturday spent lazying around indoors. I love it!


Final Thoughts:
Love it and am proud to be its cover girl! It had a nice balance of sensations: pain and pleasure, stress and comfort. I'll be keeping this one for a long time and will likely get a back up. It'll be interesting to see how the patchouli note ages.

[tamburlaine]

Clémence's Carnaval card reads: All universal moral principles are idle fancies.

 

Quick n' Dirty summary: I would categorize Clémence as a dry woody oriental blend, emphasis on "dry woody." The dominant notes on me are patchouli, carnation, and black pepper.

 

In the bottle: I can smell patchouli immediately. Its earthy, almost acrid smell comes out first, followed quickly by the scent of the dry Kashmiri tea and a brief whiff of spicy carnation that adds a floral color to this blend.

 

On my skin: I bought Ms. Clémence because black pepper is easily one of my favorite notes -- it's probably one of the only notes that, when I see it in a description, I snap up the perfume without a second thought. Perfume-lovers' shopping hysteria, you know you know what I'm talkin' bout. Black pepper is one of those spice notes that is deceptively subtle; it's a little difficult for me to smell it in the bottle, but once it hits my skin: HELLOOO~ Its dry spice scent comes out as a top note aggressively. Patchouli and carnation, however, are the anchors of Clémence. I've really warmed up to patchouli recently and this blend definitely delivers on that: this patchouli is especially earthy and woodsy (no stanky headshop smell, this is what real patchouli smells like,) no doubt because it's being enhanced by the dry tea and pepper notes that keep it close to the ground and especially elemental in that way. The carnation is there, keeping this blend sexy as well as earthy -- it takes Clémence from a dry scrub desert to a patch of earth taking its reviving breath after the first drops of rain following a drought. Also sexin' up this blend is the teeeeeeensiest bit of dried cloves. I smell only the briefest hints of this in the drydown.

 

Throw is existent, but not strong. Clémence stays close to your skin. A spikey snuggle.

 

20 minutes later, this lady is almost all patchouli with unsweetened Kashmiri tea's bitter aspects keeping the blend from getting powdery. The carnation stays around too, also keeping the blend from getting powdery, but the unique spiciness of this floral has dimmed somewhat.

 

I'm extremely pleased with Clémence. She's a very alluring but secretive and suspicious lady. She's soft and earthy and sensual but insidiously spiked with a ferocious temper and a dry, unforgiving wit. The bottle's label, with a woman (shriekingviolet!) smiling warmly at you while showing off the fierce bondage, sexuality, and decadence of her boudoir... perfect for sensually earthy dry blend. I knew Clémence was gonna be good, but I didn't expect to be so happy to have her. I look forward to seeking out her services especially during the fall months.

Edited June 6, 2008 by tamburlaine

[Honeygirl]

Bottle: Cardamom and orange

 

Wet: Cardamom and orange with a tinge of patchouli remind me of those clove studded oranges from Christmastime!

 

Drydown: There's a bit of what seems to my nose to be leather, though I don't see any in the description. It seems more like a winter scent, but I still really like it.

3.0 outta 5

[heartbeast]

Oh wow. This is a new favorite.

 

It's funny, when I first put this on, I absolutely didn't get the wet slap of patchouli that shriekingviolet describes, but I happened to be wearing arm warmers and so I didn't put it on my wrists like I usually do. Later I took them off and put some Clémence on my wrists, and I got that patchouli then--but it didn't last long. I've noticed this, scents smelling different on different parts of the body; I think my body heat just morphs a scent really quickly in some places. Anyway, at first the cardamom and clove utterly dominate the blend, with the carnation giving it a sweetness that's almost honey-like. I can't really pick out the patchouli and pepper, but I know they're there because without them this would be too sweet for me; they give the scent depth and backbone. But that carnation, oh my goodness! When I was in my big victoriana phase I used to wear Crabtree & Evelyn carnation single note, but BPAL's carnation tends to go a little powdery on me, and I've liked it best in blends where it doesn't stand out. But this! As the blend settles down, it becomes the most predominate note. It's that lovely floral with a slight spiciness that I remember, very true to the flower, with the spice oomphed up and the patchouli making it sexy. So good! Very late in the day, it does that greater-than-the-sum-of-its-parts thing that so many BPALs do; it morphs and settles in to the skin like the most sexy, indolent spicy body dusting powder you ever smelled, slightly incensey. My my my.

 

This is like the indolent, pampered love child of Spanked and Bengal. It's more ladylike than Spanked, more sophisticated than Bengal, and more ladylike, more sophisticated, and less foody than Three Witches, but it's definitely in the same family as all three of those. If you love them like I do, you will love this too.

[waternight]

In the bottle: Spicy! Clemence is a kick in the nose, in a really good way. Clove, pepper, and cardamom.

Wet: Clove and carnation...and tea! Not quite as violent as in the bottle. Mmm... now patchouli shows up, and its sharp earthiness is the perfect compliment to the spices. The tea is keeping the SLAMBAM HOT SPICE in check. Black pepper is a subtle supporting character. This. Is. Amazing. The tea and patchouli get a bit stronger, but the clove is holding steady. The cardamom and pepper are subtle and lend to the overall spiciness, as does the carnation. While this is VERY spicy, the tea adds a smoothness. This is truly an active, enchanting blend.

Dry: Dries down to a gentle clove tea with a touch of cardamom.

 

Absolute work of art.

 

EDIT 10/2/13: I wore Clemence yesterday after not wearing her for a few years, and I was blown away. If I thought I loved her fresh, it's nothing compared to how I love her aged. She's still got the spicy warmth of clove and cardamom, but she's MUCH smoother and more balanced now, with patchouli and carnation (especially carnation) being more prominent. I could not remove my nose from my inner elbow. She seriously just sky-rocketed into my Top Ten.

Edited October 2, 2013 by waternight

[djsiberia]

first initial sniff: wow...what is that scent. i know it...

 

ok, i get small bits of carnation and spice and something i know.

 

after i decided to try it on my wrist because i was so curious....i tried this one first out of my bottle order just because i couldn't figure out the one dominating note.

 

wet : clove. lots of clove. it's that scent from the smoke when you're burning clove incense or clove oil to scent the room.

 

dry: still burning clove smoke and spice.

 

20-30 minutes later, the clove has toned down. i'm picking up other notes now. the cardamom and pepper blending with small bits of carnation and tea and not getting too much patch.

 

60 minutes later...WOW>>>

 

i need to order a couple more bottles....this is a clove scent that i've been looking for and just didn't know it. it's a complete morpher on me and i loves it.

Edited June 19, 2008 by djsiberia

[Mamacat]

My skin amps clove. I was really hoping it would be way in the background in this blend but no such luck. On first sniff I already knew this wasn't going to work out but I tried it anyway.

I had it on for about an hour and then worked very hard at washing it off because the clove was all I smelled.

 

Oh well, there are so many more ladies to enjoy!

 

eta: After having this one for a little longer I've tried it a few more times. The clove is quite strong when I first put it on but once it fades a bit then the other notes do come into play a bit. I think I might like this one more than I first thought. I can actually smell the cardamom, carnation and tea . . . a hint of patchouli. I might just need a bottle before the Carnival leaves town.

 

eta2: Now I'm completely won over. I really only get a hint of clove. Now on a big long full wear I get plenty of cardamom, carnation and a hint of black pepper. I am really glad I gave this one a few more tries because I just love it. A bottle will be in my next order. Which is really funny considering my first impressions of this blend.

Edited June 26, 2008 by Mamacat

[Scylla]

Clemence is one of my favorite Ladies of the Grindhouse (behind Dionysia, of course!

 

In the vial: Spicy chai tea

 

On application: Patchouli and chai, a lovely warm and cozy combination. The kind of blend you want to wear on a cool, damp autumn day where you are wearing your favorite cozy sweater and sitting by the fire reading.

 

On drydown: What a morpher! The carnation really comes out during drydown and the chai and patchouli take a step back. But they're still there.

 

I don't think I'll wear Clemence this summer, but I have a feeling I will be reaching for her often as the days grow cooler.

[hackess]

If you've tried Spanked and found it just a *bit* too raunchy, Clémence is for you. It's the same sultry cardamom, the same sexy patchouli. Clémence is sensual; she's definitely hinting at something dirty, but she's not screaming depravity like Spanked does. The clove is most powerful in the wet stage but backs off quickly. Carnation and tea notes make this spicy scent almost elegant.

 

I'm looking at the full artwork on the BPAL site now, and the shibari-type bondage in the background is so appropriate: it's ultimately about sex and sexuality, but it's beautiful and almost subtle in its approach. It's absolutely intoxicating.

[savage_rose]

Spicy carnation tea! The carnation is very strong, and the spiciness is balanced with the tea. This smells amazing, and so different from other blends that I've smelled. Very nice!

[tartchef]

Oh Clemence, you minx! Wet, you are the darkest clove-cigarette-toking patchouli ever, delicious & earthy & set to a soundtrack by KMFDM...

 

Ah! But then you turn, shedding your patchouli & revealing a tantalising waft of carnation, creamy & spicy, the cloves & cardamon swirling around in a delcious haze... As you settle down, dry bitter tea & pepper emerge, a lovely contrast to the lush carnation.

 

Ha! You'd have liked me to think you naughty & goth & black-like-your-soul, but I see through your ruse... underneath, you are closer to Morocco than you'd like to admit, warm & inviting & emminently wearable. But granted, with a packet of cloves in every pocket & a collection of stompy boots... which makes me love you all the more.

[Lycanthrope]

Dood! This is so awesome!

 

This smells like a white carnation to me. Why white? I dunno - it's as sweet and sultry as a carnation traditionally is but it's smooth, not pink around the edges, there's some bite to it, and the best part is that once she's settled on your skin the black pepper keeps ruffling the edges to let you know this isn't your everyday carnation. It plays on me similarly to Maiden, but without the sharper, brighter tea astringency that blend has.

 

Must hoard. Excuse me.

[requieminblack]

Miss Clémence is like diving head first into a giant cup of Chai tea, with triple tea bags and seeping it for crazy long while piping hot. While smoking a clove cigarette and wearing patchouli oil. I agree with waternight that this is a great spicy kick in the nose and a SLAMBAM HOT SPICE slap in the face. Miss Clémence, you are the one for this spicy scent fetish girl.

[tehriaz]

what the HELL?

 

how is it possible for anyone to take such a delicious note list like that and completely ruin it? these are all of my favorite notes - it's like I dreamed this blend into existence.

 

I had such high hopes for this one, but this is completely foul. the cardamom is WAY too green and sharp, and the black pepper is an outright assault on the nose. it's absolutely beyond unpleasant in the bottle, but improves a bit on the skin. eventually it turns a little creamier and more tolerable, after about half an hour or so, but by that point it's too faint to even be detectable. I can barely even smell it on my skin.

 

I'll put this aside to age for a couple days, maybe a couple weeks, even a couple months, because I really want it to work on me. I'll likely update this review then. but as it stands, I'm completely disappointed.

 

2/5.

 

***ETA: almost two months later, this has aged really nicely. it sort of reminds me of spiced donut dusting, if that makes sense? and it smells almost fried, like a donut. cinnamon sugared donut, what the hell. it's okay. I like it anyway. 4.5/5.

 

ETA ONCE MORE: gonna have to revise this yet again. this... is really fuckin good. smooth, unsweetened spices... just what I've been looking for. on me, there's almost a salty note to it that reminds me slightly of scherezade. I love it. 5/5, in my top three for sure, multiple bottle purchase.

 

ETA ONE LAST TIME PROMISE: this stuff went super sicky sweet on me for a couple months, and now the cardamom turns stale and gross after about 10 minutes, like graham crackers or something similarly inappropriate. I know it's the "cardamom" because bezoar and hay moon are repulsively stale too. I LOVE cardamom, I make authentic chai from scratch, grinding the spices by hand in a mortar and pestle, and I can tell you that a freshly ground cardamom pod smells absolutely nothing like this shit, and I've also had the orgasmic pleasure of sampling real pure cardamom essential oil (thinned for skin application of course), and it's wonderful beyond words. no idea what's actually in this blend then; how sad, as I really really wanted to like this. 2/5.

 

on a side note: for the love of god, ladies, STOP calling it "CHAI TEA." it's incredibly redundant.

Edited November 14, 2008 by tehriaz

[Kippy]

When wet, I'm getting the patchouli slap mentioned above. It mellows considerably as it dries.

 

Spices and carnations are a natural combination, so if you like that scent, prepare for Clemence, the SPICIEST of the spicy carnations.

[Brianne]

I was sooo worried about this one. I have about a 90% miss rate with cardamom, which has a tendency to make me feel ill (literally, physically ill for some reason, but only in perfume form??). Everything else sounded lovely about this scent.

 

It goes on very strong cardamom. Almost immediately settles into a warm chai with carnations. Delicious and it makes me nostalgic for Autumn days and visiting our Renaissance Festival and smelling the food, and the incense and the flowers around. Nice combo it is! This is love for me, I bet this will smell so amazing aged!

[GypsyFae]

I've never written a review before, but I thought it's darn well time I start.

 

This is a winter scent to me. Spicy and smoky and something to wear to face the cold outside. The cloves and pepper and cardamom give it a very cinnamon-y sort of smell- not cinnamon and sugar, but like cinnamon sticks, sharp and woody. I don't notice the patchouli at all, but that might be because I don't mind patchouli, or it might be because there are so many notes in this that my skin amps, that patchouli is trampled in the stampede.

 

Also: I have skin on the sensitive end so I was a little worried about the cardamom and pepper, and while it makes my skin a little warm, there's no itching or splotches.

 

This one goes in the winter scents wardrobe, and is probably a bottle purchase for me.

[maribouquet]

wet: mmm, spices!

dry: everything!

 

The carnation is a bit powdery, but otherwise I'm really digging Clémence. The patchouli is the kind that likes me, and I love the spices. Can't quite pick out the tea note, but that is okay. Really lovely.

[Sushi-n-Sake]

In bottle: Cloves and carnations

Wet: Clove, carnation, patchouli, and black pepper

Dry: Sweet clove and pepper. As others have mentioned, it's reminiscent of chai tea, but more so reminds me of the clove cigarettes I used to smoke (and still do on occasion!).

 

Verdict: While this is pleasant enough, it's not something I'd personally wear often. The clove cigarette smell, although nice, is too sweet as a perfume for me.

[Ina Garten Davita]

I had to give Clémence a time out after she first arrived here because the conjoined twin blast of clove and carnation was so HOT it overwhelmed my senses.

 

Time out ended this morning and I'm thrilled with the results. First scent is the carnation/clove twins but they are just simmering now, the heat having mellowed. The pepper and cardamom blend with the tea giving a chai like vibe but not a honeyed chai tea latte rather the dry chai tea blend sniffed straight from the tin. There is an impression of sweetness here though she isn't really a sweet blend, my chemistry amps sweet. I'm not getting a whiff or even an impression of patchouli here, but honestly the patch is not missed at all.

[slave1]

CLEMENCE

 

In Bottle: Carnation and clove

 

On Skin: This is extreme carnation. I mean, like single note… holy crow! Very soft and spicy. The clove amps with it and heightens the spice. Once the heat of the cardamom and black pepper kick in, we are in spice overload! The patchouli is earthy and gives a dark resinous base and the tea gives it a another interesting level, but for the most part this is pure carnation and spice. Sadly, I’m not a fan of carnation or spice so it’s not a scent for me. But for those of you who love those notes, get this now! Strong throw and long wear length.

[iiinterstate]

Hmm.. I was not expecting to like Clemence much, mainly because of the patchouli, but it is behaving.

 

I don't get any tea at all, but the carnation is RIGHT THERE AT THE FOREFRONT. The patchouli grounds it though, and the spices make this much more than a typical floral blend. I'll definitely need to try this out on an all-day test, but it might be a bottle purchase. A good autumn-y smelling floral, imho.

 

 

Edit:

10 months later, my imp smells like straight up chai, which seems to be what everyone else was getting all along. Hmm. Still nice, but I haven't gotten around to buying a bottle yet.

Edited May 2, 2009 by iiinterstate

[hipslike___cinderella]

Mmmm. Mmmm mmmm-mm-mmm. Clemence. I knew I'd love it before my decant arrived, the very first whiff scent me spiraling into squees, and wearing it all day long has been a true pleasure.

 

I still have not tried the Salon Spider blend (why? I don't know), but this IS THE ULTIMATE patchouli-clove blend. What I've always hoped for. On top of that, you are treated to a warm cup of spiced black tea in the process, and handed a bouquet of carnations as well. This is deep, woody, sensual, spicy, I think even unisex. It's strong and enveloping. It makes me feel powerful and beautiful. One of those few BPALs that had me talking about my own scent all day to my co-workers, shoving my arms under people's noses, and discreetly whiffing my own pulse points from time to time. Yes. I will be needing many multiple bottles of this gorgeousity. In fact, this is the first Grindhouse gal I've tried, and quite frankly it's going to be damn hard to top Clemence. As a side note, after my evening shower it struck me right away that this is pretty similar to Villainess's "Embargo", for reference.

[LunaLovegood]

Clemence is nice, but to me is overpowered by the woodsy scent I get from patchouli.

Its a spicy scent, so its heaven for a spicy scent lover.

Its more earthy spicy than sweet spicy, and I like sweet spicy.

[theal8r]

In the bottle: OMG I have never smelled anything like this. spicy, orangey-hot. wow! I couldn't wait to get this on my skin.

 

Wet: Orange spice -- like this black tea I use to cook chicken in. I love the smell of it.

 

Dry down: Oh, those cloves. I'm simply huffing my wrist.

 

This is like a warm, amber-colored spice shop. It makes me want to curl up with a book and a cup of tea. Love this. Love it.