Red Phoenix

[Macha]

A celebration of three years of decadence, determination, death and rebirth. Red musk, tonka, Chinese cassia, mandarin, patchouli, benzoin, wild plum and tobacco.

When I stopped by the lab yesterday, Sara pushed a bottle of this into my hands almost before I was finished walking through the door. I do believe she wanted me to see the label, which is lovely (and I'm not saying that because it features the logo I designed for BPAL...okay, I'm not JUST saying it because of that. ) However, you can't really expect me not to squeal like a schoolgirl and try some on, right? Right?

In the bottle: A gorgeous blend of spice, of which I can distinctly pick out cassia cinnamon and tobacco. This made me very excited.

Wet, on skin: Tobacco, a little fruitiness from the plum, and strong cassia chasing it all down. The patchouli quickly asserts itself, but ah, that cassia! Gorgeous! I never realized that cinnamon and patchouli could smell so amazing together (okay, I know cassia isn't exactly the same as cinnamon, but my American nose has been sold cassia as a substitute for cinnamon for so long it can't tell the difference anymore.) It never really lets this become an "all patchouli" blend (and I've been amping patchouli lately like crazy...don't know what's up with that.) Spicy, earthy, sexy...do I need to mention this is extraordinarily sexy?

Dry, on skin: The red musk is more subtle than I'd expected it to be. It's very faint, even at this stage, letting the tonka and benzoin play center stage. I'm not sure what the throw is like (now that would require removing my nose from my wrist, wouldn't it?) but this is just wonderful.

Conclusion: I'm not sure if bottles of this will be on sale at Will Call tomorrow, but if they are...grab one. If you like spicy oriental blends, you won't want to have missed this.

[lavinia]

Macha is right--- this is a keeper

In the bottle and before drydown, the cardamom is the main event.

However, within a few short minutes, it suddenly shifts gears and becomes a soft lightly spiced floral- I definitely get the tabacco and the tonka which are great together so B., you were right, this is my kind of oil!

It reminds me of Lush's Skinny Dip because it is spicy and creamy with flowers peeping through- just more rosey instead of violets or of Lush's Sore Labours Balm b/c its a very yummy and exotic soft "chai latte" type floral.

In Bpal comparison, it is reminscent of Chimera on the drydown...so lovely...the softness of the honeysuckle tempers the spice- pleasing yet a tad complex.

I love it and am glad I didn't just go off the initial cardamom whiff~ its a changling

[blood*rose*flowers]

Tried at Will Call:

 

This one has such a wonderful scent that is similar to Blood Moon when first on my skin. Its a lovely spice scent with the musk and patchouli. Sadly over time this one morphed on me to a soapy twisted scent which I blame partially on the mandarian which doesn't always like me. Sad too since it was so delicious at the begining.

Edited December 19, 2005 by blood*rose*flowers

[Medici]

Blame me for wanting to try every re-released scent I got at once, I’m getting a couple of note crossovers from Red Phoenix and Three Witches, as they are presently on the same arm, but I’ll do my best.

 

Holy mother of bejeesus it’s the omnipresent older sister to Blood Moon. That is to say, it’s very, very red. If you were expecting something a little more burnished, look elsewhere – Red Phoenix is a fireball.

 

In the bottle: Sandalwood? A touch of something smoked? There’s sharpness to it which I usually attribute to cedar, though I might be a bit off. It is predominantly red woods, with something slightly medicinal below it. Do I detect spices? Yes, lots. There’s an overall fruitiness to it that levels out that medicinal aspect mentioned – but to be sure, it’s not distinctly fruity.

 

Wet: Spice and red musk. It’s very sharp in this stage. I have no idea where the patchouli is; I was expecting something much darker and earthier, but on me, it’s not there at all. The tobacco begins to manifest as it begins to warm on the skin. (YAY!)

 

Dry-down: Smoke lifting, the sharpness dulls somewhat and I think I’m getting a hint of incense. I get a touch of citrus, though it’s more like an afterthought. And we have patchouli! It’s faint, but it’s there.

 

The assessment: If you like Blood Moon, you will like Red Phoenix. I find they are very similar in their onsets.

 

4/5 on Medici’s Scale O’Love

Edited December 20, 2005 by Medici

[Splendid Molerat]

Red Phoenix is delicious.

 

Smoky, spiced plums and warm resins. In the drydown it reminds me of the perfumes I wore some years back (Diva, Fendi). Less brightness, more of a simmering heat.

[VenusFlyTrap]

At first, evocative of Blood Moon upon sniff.

 

But on, it's a beautiful warm spicy musky scent. Definitely NOT strong at all upon drydown. Along the lines of the other fire type BPALs. If you liked any of those, you'll definitely like this one!

 

Definitely a keeper for me!

Edited December 21, 2005 by VenusFlyTrap

[polydactyl]

In the bottle: Reminiscent of Snake Oil without the strong vanilla. Patchouli and cassia. Very dark red in mood.

 

Wet: I love the way this scent is orchestrated. A warm and sensual base of spice and resin with a hint of tobacco providing the feel of smoke and ashes. Mandarin and plum appear later on, respectively providing golden sparks and mellow sweetness.

 

I'm glad I tried this. Beth has done a great job evoking the theme of fiery rebirth. This scent absolutely smoulders.

[Aredhel]

Rating (on skin): 5/5

Summarised in a word or two: Spicy.

 

In the bottle: Hmm. As others have said, this reminds me quite a bit of Blood Moon, with tobacco.

 

On skin, wet: Musk, cassia, tobacco and patchouli. I'm not much of a patchouli or tobacco fan, but in Red Phoenix, they're beautiful. The patchouli is earthy, but without the "dirty" quality it usually has on my skin.

 

On skin, dry: The tonka and benzoin appear, and this becomes slightly perfumey. It doesn't last very long, though, and it becomes warmer (the benzoin). The musk isn't very strong now, but doesn't disappear entirely.

 

Conclusion: I never noticed any mandarin or plum in this, but it doesn't matter -- this is absolutely gorgeous; easily in my Top 10. I wish I would've gotten more than one bottle.

Edited December 26, 2005 by Aredhel

[maewitch]

Yep, the opening notes also remind me of Blood Moon - which to me has an herbal, slightly bitter bite. I don't see any obvious notes in common, but Alone also had a similar feel, so I ascribed it the angelica and assumed that must be the 'forest herbs' contained in Blood Moon. Now I'm thinking maybe it's the patchouli. It's not listed in BM, but that blend does have an earthy feel to it, so I wouldn't be surprised if it did have patchouli as well. I'm curious if this is the oil that Fritz is making for the lab? If so, it seems to have this particular topnote that dissipates relatively quickly.

 

Anyway.

 

Ok, so bitter and herbal at first, with that wonderful dry spiciness that I think is the cassia. As it dries, it develops a slightly powdered vanillic character that belnds quite smoothly with the spice. Dried down, there is just this waft of deep spicy musk and sweetness. Not nearly as earthy I was expecting.

 

I think this blend will get even better with age as the patchouli mellows and rounds out the base notes. I can't wait to try it again in a few months.

[nineveh]

I didn't think this would be so spicy. The cassia in Morocco and Kali didn't go nuts on me like this. It's not as bad on me as cinnamon, but I can still barely smell anything else. If I seriously huff on it, I can pick out the tonka. This smells a lot more mellow in the bottle, so I know it's my skin throwing things off balance.

 

Oh wait, now more notes are emerging. It's getting sweeter and smokier with a touch of juiciness from the plum. It's still very spicy, but it's not completely cassia now.

 

Although it shares several notes with The Great Sword of War, they don't smell that similar beyond a general spiciness. I'm not getting any mandarin here, and GSoW has a prominent saffron note that makes it smell more golden than red.

 

I don't know where the patchouli is. Hopefully with some aging, this will become more balanced on my skin. I shall keep it for now, because I know it smells great under all that cassia.

 

Edit: Apparently letting it sit for almost a month was enough. Now the cassia has toned itself down, and I can smell the patchouli. I really like it now.

Edited January 18, 2006 by nineveh

[Dianella]

Wow, skin chemistry is a wonder! I wish I detected the notes that other are getting. Honestly, on my skin I'm getting soap. Spicy soap. Weird and not what I was hoping for. Maybe aging will help.

[malabar]

There are some scents that just feel like being wrapped up in a blanket. For me, this is one of them. It barely even registers as a scent as such; it just makes me feel like all's right with the world. I may need another bottle!

[Merlu]

In the bottle: Smells like very bitter medicine.

 

Wet, on skin: Cassia! I had never gotten the chance to smell such strong cassia. It's like cinnamon, but warmer and more comforting. Sharp, musky cassia.

 

Dry: The benzoin and the plum appear, toning down the cassia a bit. Someone said it has a very dark red mood, and I agree completely.

 

"As the end of its life approached, the phoenix would build a pyre nest of aromatic branches and spices such as myrrh, sets it on fire, and is consumed by its flames. After three days the birth -- or as some legends say the rebirth -- the phoenix rises from the ashes."

- from mythicalrealm.com

 

Red Phoenix captures that moment perfectly well. First, the moment before the fire. The phoenix is standing still, with a very grave look in its eyes, and you know something important will happen soon. Then the fire, intense, as the phoenix silently lets itself burn. And the rebirth, as the phoenix rises from its ashes, stronger, wiser than ever.

[Nox Eterna]

 

The only review I can give Red Phoenix is one word..... PERFECT

[gdogs]

this starts out highly remenicent of blood moon, spicy. but as it dries, it becomes much softer than blood moon. more organic. i get a sense of spring air in this. . . soft floral wafting over sweet, wet dirt. i'm guessing i'm getting the plum and patchouli.

 

 

this is lovely. i'm so glad i got a bottle!

[olympia301]

 

This one is (as others have pointed out) much like Blood Moon. I am guessing the cassia which makes an appearance in both. In Red Phoenix, the red musk is in full force as well, which adds the soft background persistance to the blend. Red Phoenix strikes me as surprisingly spice and resin free despite what I just said, a fact that I'm not used to with BPAL blends. It is more of a traditional type of blend, and I mean that in a good way, and not "alternative" at all to my nose. In some odd ways, I get the feeling of Buck Moon here, please don't think I mean they resemble each other, they don't; but there is a reliance on musk in Red Phoenix, which is a bit of a departure for the Lab. Very well done and I think it will be a hit.

[lorajc]

This is another one that I don't really love when it's first applied, but the drydown is absoultely gorgeous. I can't always wear Red Musk, so I was a bit worried about this one. It starts out with the same bitter top note that I detect in Blood Moon, but when it dries down........it is a spicy wonderful blend. This also does very slightly burn my sensitive skin when first applied (almost like a cinnamon blend) and I smell something that resembles cinnamon, but it is just a spice.....not sure what that note is. The notes are blend together well and one particular note does not stand out on me. I can't even pick out the patchouli or plum on it's own. This is PERFECT and I LOVE it very much. I'm glad I bought multiples of this one.

Edited December 26, 2005 by lorajc

[QueenFae]

A very sexy red scent. It's very rich and spicy, and it smells really cinnamon on my skin. The patchouli and the tonka combine to form this really pretty, sweet, yet incensey base. Tucked somewhere in between is the ripe, sweet plum, which smells amazing layered over the spiciness. It's very seductive and decadent, perfect for all the sirens and seductresses out there. I think this would be really nice on either men or women, although I told my husband he's not getting his hands on my bottle! Yum, wonderful

[emzebel]

At first Red Phoenix was so similar to Blood Moon in the bottle and wet on my skin that I was sondering if there was any point to owning both.

 

Then I gave it some time. Red Phoneix dries to a soft warm sophistocation on my wrist that is unlike much of what I've tried from the Lab - the tobacco and plum make this warm and familiar, and patchouli is similar to the one in Samhain, I think, but this is a very womanly blend, with none of the feral iron tinged bloodyness that Blood Moon had now that it's dry.

 

This is a really beautiful scent.

[Wench457]

I almost didn't order Red Phoenix, since patchouli and I have a hate/hate relationship. I did anyway, hoping for another bpal miracle, a la Samhain.

 

Alas, Red Phoenix simply hates me. I smell like a cinnamon candle burning in a head shop. Ah well, I can always console myself with Samhain.

[hangingfire]

In the bottle: Blood Moon, is that you? Creamy cinnamon, much like Blood Moon.

 

On, wet: I dabbed Red Phoenix on one hand and Blood Moon on the other, and now I wonder how I could have ever confused the two. Where BM is nutty and sharp, Red Phoenix is sweeter and softer, almost floral -- possibly from the plum and mandarin.

 

Drydown: It smells almost like amber, although it's spicier and sweeter than even Brisingamen or Bastet; the amber is a sort of olfactory illusion from the other notes.

 

Lovely lovely lovely. BPAL spice scents rule my world.

[UltraViolet]

Red

 

Here's a picture of the lovely bottle: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y181/lush...hoenixmypic.jpg

In the bottle

Smells red and spicy. It's a dark reddish colored blend.

On

Smells spicy. It reminds me of BPAL's Malkuth but less berryish.

30 minutes

Hasn't morphed too much but the cinnamon smell (wherever it might be coming from) definitely amps up on my skin.

Throw:

average for being so spicy

Scent category:

Spicy/Resin

Summary

I like Black Phoenix better really but this is a spicy alternative and not as sweet and not as fruity. It's got better than average staying power.

In terms of strength I smell mostly the Red musk, Patchouli Chinese cassia and tobacco.

The tonka is there with the benzoin in the back...and I don't smell the mandarin, nor the wild plum at all.

Purchase again?

Yes

1-5 rating (5 being best)

3.5

Edited December 27, 2005 by UltraViolet

[Imbrium]

At first sniff, this is almost all cassia, and it goes on the same way, smelling of mostly warm spices - cassia and a hint of patchouli.

 

This is nothing like I expected it to be, when it dries down. I was expecting a very bold scent, and was a little nervous, as patchouli and plum and I don't often get along. However, it's very light on my skin - I can barely smell it, even when I put my nose to my arm. It's still warm and spicy, but the red musk is now evident - it's earthy and sexy; I really, really like it. There's something at the base of this that is slightly foodier than I would expect red musk to be - perhaps that's the tonka or benzoin? - and oddly enough, this has an occasional soapy feel to it, but that doesn't turn me off, as I like the clean scents, too.

 

Interesting - this bottle was a bit of a risk for me, and I wound up really liking it.

[Blood onmy hands]

I was so excited to get my phoenix orders, as they definitely have my favorite bottle art on them. Unfortunately, Red Phoenix is not working so well on me as a fragrance.

 

First on, this is insanely strong cassia... smells like a smoother version of cinnamon on me. After about fifteen minutes the patchouli starts to get stronger, but the combination just smells off on me. It's very strong and has a LOT of throw too, and I only put a small drop on my wrist.

 

After a half hour the cassia is still going strong with a hint of patchouli in the background, but I can also smell a bit of fruity plum now as well. I have to really concentrate to pick out the plum or patchouli though, mostly this is just screaming CINNAMON to me.

 

Too much cinnamon. I'll probably end up decanting away most of my bottle. Blood Moon had a similar feel, but was much more wearable to me, this one is just too strong and heavy for me.

[sarada]

Red Phoenix is just glorious.

 

First of all, almost every note in this is one of my favorites: red musk, patchouli, plum and tobacco would all be ingredients in my ultimate dream blend. The only iffy one is cassia, but since Blood Moon worked well on me despite my not normally liking cinnamony scents, this seemed worth the risk.

 

And while the cassia is strong initially, definitely warranting a Blood Moon comparison, it goes much more in the direction of Blood Countess for me, which is one of my all-time favorites. It's like...a slightly spicy Blood Countess, since the plum becomes very very deep, dark juicy purple on me, grounded by patchouli/tobacco and set into a sultry bed of red musk.

 

Red musk has the unique property of just making any blend that it's in, automatically good on me. It's a burning, smouldering passionate fire just beneath the surface. It's like the coal upon which all of the other ingredients burn.

 

This is one of those things that I could just never get sick of smelling, once it dries down and the cassia is just a faint spice around the edges. A slightly tart, voluptuous dark plum dribbling with crimson juice, and a sweet, earthy bed of musky incense. I know that this would be too much for a lot of people but it's just right for me. I will probably try to stick to having just one bottle, but this goes in the Top Ten limited editions for me, for sure...probably Top Five.