fairnymph

In the imp: Apricot coloured oil. Floral and dark. Mimosa and violet water jump out. A bit sharp. Very 'traditional' perfumey.

 

Wet: Same, with a powdery edge presumably from the violet. There is a sort of sweet depth that is probably a combo of the vanilla and musk, but I can't pick out either note, or the same sambac.

 

Dry: Increasingly powdery; violet is taking over. A little bit of musk coming out, but it's losing against the violet. Mimosa is going strong, too - very white, feminine, rich. Okay, getting a headache. Sink.

 

Sniffed in imp: Light golden-yellow oil. Buttery-foody? As well as lemony. What? Ughhh tonka, no doubt to represent the chestnuts. Not a fan.

Dark orangish brown oil. Mostly musk - definitely the deep, dark sort - and maybe some amber, with a very light touch of dragon's blood. I can pick out red musk, black musk and I think Indian musk, but the musks are very well blended into a general muskiness.

 

Instantly much more dragon's blood, as always sweet-soapy fake cherry-lilac air freshener, but this much more floral-lilac, more heady floral soap and less fake fruit sweetness. The ratio is different than usual. This smells a lot fresher and brighter on my skin, and not totally in a bad way. I'm pretty sure there's some white musk in this, and it's actually dominating the darker ones, at least right now. It's toned down by those, however, so it's not sharp or piercing, just bright and clean. I also get an almost citrusy sort of herbal or woodsy note too...a very light touch of verbena, maybe?

 

Yep, I do think there is a touch of verbena or possibly lemon balm in this - it's not nearly as PLEDGE as verbena usually is, it's a much softer and hazier sort of note. Definitely some white musk, and some sexy Indian musk/ that musk from Galvanic Goggles - I was either wrong about the red and black musks or they're now very faint/dominated because I can't pick them out now. The dragon's blood is still light and lilac-forward, which sadly makes my face itch a bit.

 

Musks amping, and the red musk has returned suddenly and strongly adding a mentholic touch, along with black musk that's a little powdery and quite sweet in that almost-foody way. The white musk has faded to near-oblivion, but the Indian musk is still going strong and gorgeous. The lilac is more apparent than the dragon's blood, almost like it's a separate note here, and its headiness makes it seem to merge with the red musk which is why I think the latter seemed hidden for a while. This is only very faintly soapy and makes my face itch much less than most dragon's blood containing scents.

 

After a while, light lemony herb and red musk dominate over a light base of heady, slightly soapy, greatly lilac-based drgaon's blood, sexy deep Indian musk and a little powdery black musk and what I swear is an amber of some sort, I'm betting black amber, which is more musky and sweet and only faintly powdery on me, but still adds a feel of dark warmth. It's indeed quite a musky scent but yet very light and pretty unisex. It reminds me a bit of Smut, in terms of the musk mix. Better than expected but not for me. Very low throw but decent longevity.

Sniffed in imp: Dark hot pink oil. Fruity lilac and lily of the valley. Heady and soapy. The fruit strikes me as cherry, the fake kind in cough syrup - it's vaguely mentholic.

Sniffed: Creamy coffee and a little bit of eggy egg nog. Light hints of buttery rum and nutmeg. Just the right amount of sweetnesss. Really delicious smelling!

 

Wet: Latte, one that's rather sweet - maybe with vanilla syrup. The egg in here is almost sort of buttery (?), and merges with the general intensely rich creaminess of the scent.

 

Dry: Much less sweet, and even more buttery. But not like tonka or typical buttery notes. This is buttered toast, with creamy coffee on the side. It's like I'm eating them together. The nutmeg emerges a little bit, but it's still very mild, more of an accent than an actual spicy presence.

 

Later: The coffee has faded greatly, almost entirely - within minutes - and has morphed, too. It's going stale on my skin, and now it sort of reminds me of how flavoured coffee smells (one my most hated smells), or how cheap coffee-flavoured candy tastes - even though this isn't sweet.

 

Summary: Stale, faint coffee with fake creamer, a dash of nutmeg, and buttered toast. Emphasis on the buttered toast. It does remain creamy, though not as intensely as it was initially. It's not unpleasant unless I sniff closely, but it's strange. Low throw & fades rapidly.

In the bottle: Very pale yellow oil. Cherry! It does smell a bit different from straight cherry, a cross between it and black cherry, sort of, with a slightly bitter edge. I get the cream (lightly), but not any vanilla, or strawberry.

 

Wet: More like cherry candy or cough syrup, though not sweet. This is a surprisingly NOT sweet scent. Reminds be a bit of the cherry note in Neo-Tokyo. This feels almost aquatic, almost soapy even. Less creamy.

 

Dry: The cherry is going sort of sharp and medicinal, and on the whole this is fading before it even really dries. I get maybe a hint of vanilla, but this still isn't sweet. Still no strawberry.

 

Later: Definitely the same cherry note from Neo-Tokyo. This has taken on a delightful tartness, too, and gone a bit floral/perfumey in a delicate way. Softly, sweetly creamy.

 

Summary: Tart, slightly bitter, juicy cherry, light cream, a very well-behaved skin-hugged vanilla, and faint white florals. Distantly, a hint of plasticky wild strawberry. Airy and soft, almost fluffy.

 

I like it much, much more than I expected. It'd be bottleworthy without the strawberry. Sadly after a few hours it reminds me way too much of Strawberry Moon.

 

2005 Original

 

In the bottle: Golden oil. Sweet, foody, creamy. Tangy cream cheese, vanilla, and cake, and also some spice.

 

Wet: The spice is clove, and this reminds me a lot of cream cheese frosted carrot cake. Loads creamy vanilla. Less sweet on my skin.

 

Dry: Clove amping. My skin ate most of the sweetness, and much of the sourness of the cream cheese is gone. Still lots of vanilla.

 

Later: A little sweeter, and more woody from the clove. I'm also getting some delicious hot chocolate (specifically) and graham cracker. Maybe some coconut?

 

Summary: Maybe it's not clove, because clove usually becomes so cloying and intense on me, but it's some woody spice. Along with creamy vanilla-flavoured cocoa & graham crust.

 

Not my thing at all, but surprisingly delicious. For some reason, I am remind of Samoas which are my favourite Girl Scout cookie. I would eat my hand if I could.

 

In the bottle: Pale yellow oil. Black currant - but almost boozy, really, like creme de cassis - blackberry, vanilla, and rich brandy. Sweet, but not overly foody.

 

Wet: Really boozy, but in a delicious, decadent way. Deep, dark berries that are ripe, juicy, and not the least bit fake. The vanilla is lightly creamy.

 

Dry: The black currant reminds me of these delicious gummy lozenges in tins I used to get. The brandy (cognac?), vanilla, and blackberry all blend together just below.

 

Summary: This is, to me, cassis version of MB: Closet, with less vanilla and more booze. It has the same dark, rich, rounded and syrupy but not cloying feel. Great throw.

 

Love it.

In the bottle: Light amber coloured oil. Sharp! Bitter berry and citrus with dirty, rooty patchouli. Lots of patchouli. Kinda masculine.

 

Wet: Magically softer! Much less sharp and earthy. The orange peel is sweeter, and I can pick out a bit of rose hip. The berry's less bitter, reminds me of Baneberry.

 

Dry: Astringent tobacco and something else green and slightly bitter. The orange is long gone, though the citrusy rose hip is holding. A berryish-grapey wine note. Patchouli has emerged again.

 

Later: This has gone really dusty. Not powdery, but dusty, and it mixes with some warm, dry oak. This is amazingly woody in drydown.

 

Summary: Dust, dirty patchouli, rich oak, tobacco and bitter ivy with grapey wine. Oddly mentholic and earthy and fruity all at once. Low throw.

 

In the bottle: Extremely pale nearly colourless green oil. Leafy, stemmy, green, mildly bitter and sweet. Wet, aquatic, cool and fresh.

 

Wet: Clover, cucumber, grass, and wild lettuce. Really refreshing. Reminds me a lot of Passionate Shepherd. A hint of something floral, a wildflower - maybe daisy?

 

Dry: I think the bitter note may be ivy, and some dandelion. This is also vaguely spicy. The smoothness of aloe is sort of rounding this out, though.

 

Summary: It dries down sweet, almost sugary, and slightly woody - reminiscent of Dog Days and Fairy Market. Still grassy green, though that's faded. Low throw.

 

Hmm, I like it, but not sure I *need* it. To retest.

Sniffed in imp: Light golden-peach coloured oil. Strongly spicy clove and cinnamon, fresh green herbs, maybe a touch of orange. Woody with an incensey edge.

 

Wet: Much nicer on my skin, though still very spicy. CLOOOOVE! Still a bit green, but much less so. This is sweeter and richer, almost creamy. I do still get a sort of dry wood, maybe oak, and there's some astringent tobacco for sure.

 

Dry: Softer and nicer and yummier as it dries; the clove is sharp and woody but doesn't bully here as it often does on my skin. Cinnamon and tobacco and oak. Also something sweet and a little incensey - frankinense?

 

Later: I still think there is some sort of green-herbal note that's sweet, but I can't place it. This reminds me a little of Odin in generaly feel, but much spicier with the clove and cinnamon. I notice the orange more on drydown, and it's the SAME primary note from Orange (Neil Gaiman)! Very faint, though.

 

Summary: Sweet, slightly spicy and smoky wood/incense blend with a touch of sweet orange fruit. The clove dominates on me for hours but eventually settles down - it's a team player on my roommate's skin, though. It's okay on me, but much nicer on him, so probably best for men. Good throw & longevity.

 

Aww. I'm sad I didn't like this, seeing as I lean more this way than anything else, politically.

In the bottle: Sweet and fruity! Berryish. Almost citrusy, too. I get the watery bamboo note. But mostly this is gentle fruit. Maybe a hint of a pink floral, like lotus.

 

Wet: Green-fresh-herbal, and more citrusy-tart - the ho wood, I believe. Less sweet, but still berries. The bamboo's a bit sharper and more woody, but lovely. And the teak is there, but light.

 

Dry: Oh black musk, how I love you. So sweet and sexy! That ho wood is holding, and has almost a floral quality, as well reminding me of verbena. The teak has sweetened and warmed up a bit.

 

Later: Teak amping and taking over, and a faint hint of cola/red musk snake oil is creeping up, too. Bamboo has faded. Still nice and strong on the ho wood and black musk.

 

Summary: Snake oil with rich black musk, dry, sweet teak and a whisper of citrusy ho wood. This could have been love without the SO and teak. Decent throw.

In the bottle: Strange! Sweet cola-ish snake oil and slightly soapy and salty aquatic notes. Distant oakmoss.

 

Wet: Intense snake oil, full of red musk now. Also - much saltier. Not soapy on my skin. I'm not getting any sort of moss, earthy or herbal notes.

 

Dry: Salty snake oil.

 

Sniffed in imp: Benzaldehydey (i.e. almond extract) almond. A tiny bit of bitter-smoky myrrh underneath. No mandarin or snake oil to be seen. I'm reminded a tiny bit of Lupanar from BPTP, but this is more ALMOND.

In the bottle: Light, softly sweet floral. I definitely get the citrusy linden, some calla lily, and maybe a hint of green narcissus. Also, I smell *pear*. White pear.

 

Wet: Richer, headier, soapier. Jasmine? Way more lily, less linden, but still a fair bit of pear. Narcissus a little sharper and stronger. Hint of snake oil in the distance.

 

Dry: Increasingly powdery, surely due to the calla lily. This will shortly be ALL powder. Also, too heady and the edge of narcissus isn't working for me. Sink.

 

In the bottle: Foody! Something buttery/creamy. Reminds me greatly of cinnamon buns, for some reason. Some lovely fresh ginger, too. Much smoother and less intense than I expected.

 

Wet: Hotter -that red-hot cinnamon with dry, spicy ginger to back it up. Also a sort of nutty note - peanut? Odd. Still very foody/cakey. I get an edge of brown sugar.

 

Dry: CINNAMON-ginger hot, hot spice over sweet, nutty cake. Interesting, and not much snake oil (or else it's all burned out by the spices). Not my thing, though.

 

Sniffed in imp: Pale golden yellow oil. Cold, sharp, piney snow, sweet berries, and bright flowers. I can pick out everything except the ylang-ylang (which is fortunate).

 

In the bottle: Less sweet, more floral. Still heavy on the snow note, which is a bit hairsprayish. The osmanthus (green-fresh) and daffodil (creamy) are really gorgeous, though.

 

Wet: Less sweet, more floral. Still heavy on the snow note, which is a bit hairsprayish. The osmanthus (green-fresh) and daffodil (creamy) are really gorgeous, though.

 

Dry: The berries are tarter - cranberry? Almost citrusy!And this is taking on a soapy edge. Also, this is richer and heavier in the floral department, so clearly some ylang-ylang has emerged, but it's well-behaved.

 

Later: The berry note sort of reminds me of the one in Belladonna, that sort of wild dark fruit. Also, both osmanthus and daffodil have greatly amped. I would love this without the pine.

 

Summary: Some delicious musk emerges, but that sharp pine note just refuses to die, which is a shame because the florals are gorgeous and the berries tartly juicy. Decent throw, fades a lot.

 

Ice Queen crossed with Snow Moon?

Sniffed in the bottle: Snake oil and vetiver, and cloying sweetness. Very dark and smoky/ashy.

In the bottle: Surprisingly light. Only a bit of snake oil, with some powdery-heady orris, soft sweetly incensey frankincense, and smoky-resiny copal. Smells like diapers.

In the bottle: Peppermint! And snake oil. Also some wintergreen. It reminds me of Peppermint Patties or Junior Mints. Tiny hint of bergamot.

 

Wet: Still extremely minty and mentholic. Oh shit, pennyroyal. UGH MY NEMESIS (after wisteria). Mingled with the sweetness of the snake oil, I am revolted. Sink.

In the bottle: Sweet and resiny. Snake oil, sugar cane, brown sugar, a bit of frankincense. Boozy and musky. Sort of reminds me of Smut. Light champaca.

 

Wet: Loads of that cola-red musk snake oil. Less sweet and musky, less like Smut. A bit minty-green - hyssop, making this fresher. Also oddly sour, I'm not sure from what. It smells a bit like cleaning solution.

 

Dry: It's like, extra-boozy mentholic bitter snake oil with cloying, incensey sweetness. Must wash off.

 

In the bottle: Spicy and fruity. Lots of red apple, with mulling spices, orange peel and lemon peel. I don't get blood orange, really. Hint of white floral.

 

Wet: Cinnamon galore, less citrus. This is really like a lot of Halloween scents. Quite foody. The apple is crisp, juicy and sweet - and lovely - but this is just so spicy.

 

Dry: Apple fading a bit. I'm getting more and more of that musky-cola snake oil now, and a bit of sweet plumeria. I like how the apple note is sort of candied.

 

Later: So strange that gardenia, which typically loves my skin, is not here. Musk has come out more, and the cinnamon has, amazingly, calmed down a bit.

 

Summary: Candied apple with a hint of cinnamony mulled cider and dark snake oil. Intriguing and evolves nicely, but not my style. Good throw & longevity.

 

 

In the bottle: Fresh herbs and flowers, and I can pick out angelica (sort of anise-y), ginger, bergamot and fig. Quite soft. A little spicy and a little sweet. Unisex.

 

Wet: More herbal (sage!), deeper. More masculine. I get a little bit of that incensey-sweet frankincense, and some citrusy galangal. Still a fair bit of spicy ginger. The angelica is bearably-licorice.

 

Dry: Deeper and more resiny, as that honeyish benzoin emerges. The olive blossom, too, has a sort of waxy, heady, smooth scent.The fig is slightly earthy and very creamy-rich.

 

Later: It is a bit medicinal, in a sort of Ricola-way, and I think that's the angelica and the quite-strong, scrubby sort of sage. Angelica and benzoin amping, a bit of tobacco flower.

 

Summary: It's warm and deep, green-fresh and spicy-zesty, with a bit of honeyed/resiny sweetness and rich but well-behaved florals. Pretty masculine. Low throw.

 

I do see the Faiza & The Apothecary resemblance. It's a bit too rooty/woody/dark resiny for me, as well as too herbal-medicinal. It's a very nicely blended scent, though, that should be popular.

 

 

In the bottle: Soft, gentle floral. A little bit sweet, almost aquatic. Delicate and feminine.

 

Wet: Engish garden crossed with wildflowers - it smells both classic and uncultivated. A bit grassy, a bit spicy (carnation?). Slightly soapy edge.

 

Dry: Clover is giving that sweet, cool green aquatic feel, and I think there are some fruit tree blossoms in here. Also, something powdery. Still, it's pretty shady and dewy.

 

Later: Yes, it's more powdery than soapy, in a way that makes me think violet. It's not too strong. I think also a rose note that goes to soap/powder on me.

 

Summary: From a distance, it reminds me a bit of The Phantom Queen or Blue Moon 07, but up close it's slightly powdery-soapy. A very complex and well-blended, light, feminine floral. Low throw.

 

I like it, not sure I love it.

 

In the bottle: Extremely pale, nearly colourless yellow oil. Sour milk and soapy, salty aquatic. A bit like cologne/aftershave, with some white florals. Vaguely tropical in feel. Not creamy.

 

Wet: Not so much sour as...citrusy! Almost a little sparkling. Lemon and especially lime, I think. Still pretty soapy, but not any soapier than sniffed. The fizziness is delightful. Ignoring the saltiness, this reminds me a notably of Independent.

 

Dry: This really makes me think of the beach. Salt spray, suntan lotion...and also summer cocktails, gin and tonic with lime. From a distance I get wafts of cool green cucumber. Up close it's more salty and a little musky - sharp green musk.

 

Later: Hello, weird green soapy note! Almost like pine or mint, but not quite. In the cold way a lot of snowy winter scents are. It's a bit medicinal. The milk has come out in a more creamy way, possibly with the mentholic stuff as contrast.

 

Summary: I'm undecided. From several inches a way, it's a faintly tropical and creamy, cucumbery, sea-green, salty aquatic that's clean but not too soapy. From a few inches, it's more intensely soapy/musky with a mentholic edge. Good throw.

 

I think I need to wear this as I normally would - on my neck - and not just be testing it on a distal body part. If it's mostly as it is from a distance, it's definitely a keeper. Overall, a very interesting evolution which I enjoy at all stages.