fairnymph

Heliotrope, grave soil, and blood. Pale yellow oil. Surprisingly sweet and soft, and sort of golden and bright - definitely a strong heliotrope note shining through. I get a bit of powder or dust, but not any actual soil or dirt. There's something soapy which I fear is Dragon's Blood. Instantly more powdery and soapy - definitely some dragon's blood, and something else, like an amber, that's going straight to intense baby powder. Also, now there is a sort of sour or tangy note, I think that evil type of rose from the Miller's Daughter, The Empress, and Clarimonde. *shudder* An extremely effeminate blend. Not feminine, but fake-feminine, over-the-top, too-girly - and the mysterious sweetness only heightens that effect. Such horribly strong throw of overwhelming sour, floral powder and soapy-air freshener dragon's blood. Egads. Still not a trace of actual blood or soil to be found. The has got to be some amber AND orris in here and I know what that horrible sweetness is - WISTERIA, ugh. And the orris, too. All overwhelm that initial heliotrope that was so lovely in the imp. Off to sink... and of course, it won't come off.

Light amber oil. Sweet, green, floral - and a tad spicy from the poppies. I definitely get the mossy notes and a touch of freshwater aquatic, and the water lily is quite sweet, almost like a nice lotus note (not the bubblegum sort). Gardenia is strongly present. Earthier - the peat is really emerging but in a lovely way, it has sort of woody and smoky and earthy notes but all are light and grounding, not 'dirty' or too strong. The moss is quite green and I get a sappy sort of green note from somwhere, possibly the poppies, which are spicier and a touch dusty. The gardenia is the sharp sort and I fear that it will amp epically. Still sweet in an almost-fruity or juicy way. Gardenia amping as suspected, and it's going that piercing way that gives me dreadful headaches. I'm off to the sink because gardenia headaches stick around if I don't nip them in the bud. Crazy strong throw and how much do you want to bet this won't wash off? Yeah, this would have ridiculous longevity, too.

Rich golden oil. Buttery-nutty-spicy - extremely foody. If I didn't know better I'd think this was a pumpkin scent. Very sweet and rich. I get a tiny hint of juniper, but otherwise this is all FOODY 'chestnut' - or sweet, too-rich butter. Still super foody-buttery (caramel is right, as others have noted), but more nutty now, less just straight butter, and a little more juniper appears as well as the labdanum - there's definitely a strong resin/incense undercurrent that adds depth and darkness. A tiny bit of white musk is piercing through, but so far no flowers. How is there GINGER (like dried, spicy ginger - very foody, I agree with the gingerbread assessment) in this? Buttery, nutty, gingery-HOT with that hint of juniper and a little bit more white musk now. Still no flowers anywhere to be seen and still very faint incense. Those chesnuts just won't fade, and the nutty note has turned sort of rancid, like peanut butter & butter both gone bad - and this does not pair well with the piney-sharp juniper berries and cheap/sharp white musk (these latter notes sort of merge). The ginger has faded a little bit but is still giving the gingerbread feel. And now I'm getting some powder below everything, though I never got any actual florals. Rancid nutty butter, juniper, white musk and faint incense and powder - these clash so terribly, and I can't imagine anyone wearing it as a perfume. Strong throw and longevity.

Sniffed: Soft, slightly sour, lots of skin musk and definitely some roses, and something a little cologney. Also maybe a hint of smoke, like candles blown out? Wet: Much more floral, soapier, with a minty note of some sort (?). Turning quickly powdery, too - definitely some violets in here. I get an old lady talcum powder sort of feel. The rose note is still a little sour - I'm not crazy about white roses. The hefty dose of skin musk helps me tolerate this blend, at least. Dry: Yechhhhh. Floral powder/soap. There has GOT to be some orris in here as well as a sour, dried, soapy sort of rose. This is really nasty generic old lady perfume gone evilly stale. Summary: It definitely conveys decay and revulsion - but even the strong skin musk presence can't make this bearable. Sink. Good throw and moderate longevity.

Sniffed: This reminds me a lot of Lovers' Parodies of Sumo holds - the tangerine note is the same, very lovely. I also get a little pear and a little richness (but not so much creaminess) from the cream, and definitely the lightly sweet tonka and benzoin that this blend also shares with Lovers'. But I get the sandalwood (a tad dry & perfumey) and slightly waxy ambergris, too. Wet: Much more sandalwood and ambergris, more cologney and masculine, although also a little sweeter - the tonka is amped and so is the benzoin to a slightly lesser degree. Still, tangerine is holding nicely and the cream note, while a little buttery, is more present. The pear is buried under everything else. Dry: Sweeter. The pear is actually coming out a bit, and it's that 'baked pear' note from the Perilous Parlor. Tonka continues to amp as does the ambergris, which is taking on a salty/beachy aspect. Still, this blend feels overly heavy and rich - too much. It's not the light sort of citrus blend I was hoping for. Later: The sandalwood has amped completely up, becoming very dry and woody, and combined with the salty, waxy, and now musky ambergris, this is a very masculine blend. The tangerine has faded and the pear is completely gone, but there's still a little too-rich cream and plenty of tonka. This has really turned into a cologney sort of scent, but sadly not the type I like. Summary: Manly, but oddly perfumey woody sandalwood and musky ambergris sweetened by sickly tonka and enriched by that odd buttery creamy note. All fruit gone. Unfortunately this really amps on my skin throw-wise to the point of nauseating me. Strong throw in the later stages (yet light in the more pleasant early stages when there was still fruit, of course!), and good longevity.

Deep orangey amber oil - burnt umber. Sweet and foody - buttery pumpkin and lots of black musk and the sweet, deep, rich sort of tobacco. Almost cakey! A faint hint of spicy clove and a distant whisper of bitter myrrh. Still very foody and cakey, but a bit of the vegetal pumpkin aspect comes out. More clove and tobacco and myrrh - this is much more balanced and complex on my skin, although the pumpkin and black musk and sweet foodiness in general definitely dominate. Still sweet but no longer buttery. Much, much more clove - it now dominates along with the delicious tobacco note. Myrrh still makes this bitter and overall I find this a touch too sweet, but barely. I think without the myrrh I might find this workable. It is the best tobacco note, and the clove is bitter clove which I don't love but unlike other cloves also don't hate. Oddly, the final dry down of this is very earthy, almost like a soil note. The myrrh, tobacco, and bitter clove all hold well and in balance with each other, but the pumpkin is long gone, and the black musk is a backdrop note. At first is has good throw but it fades after a few hours to almost nothing. Not bad, but not my style.

Pumpkin, fir needle, pitch, rosemary, and tomato. Sniffed: Pale yellow oil. Green and herbal and fresh! I don't get any of the buttery note that pumpkin usually registers as, but I get everything else, and some mint that adds a bit of sweetness. Shockingly lovely. Wet: A little more rosemary and a bit more pitch (now it has a resiny sort of base), but still loads of tomato leaf and sweet spearmint and fir leading the way. I do get maybe a suggestion of raw pumpkin flesh, but it could be my imagination. I would never have guessed this to be a PP blend. Dry: So fresh and green! This is not morphing on me, other than all the notes blending together beautifully, integrating fully. I find this invigorating, mood-lifting - like it could be a Panacea blend, used therapeutically. It's both very outdoorsy and very wearable. Later: It has gone the teensiest bit soapy, and the fir is a tiny bit potpourri-ish, but otherwise this morphs very little and remains lovely as well as totally unique from any other BPAL blend I've tested. Summary: Spearmint, tomato leaf, and rosemary with a hint of depth from the pine pitch and a bit of soapy sweetness from the fir. Unisex, though probably ideal for a man. Good throw and longevity. I want a bottle!

Sniffed: Golden oil. Sharp, herbal, biting. I get gunpowder, metallic and harsh, first.Then a bit of sour hay and dry warm wood and general herbal greenery. Definitely masculine. Wet: Still very harsh and almost - chemical, or like leather - I presume that's the gunpowder. This reminds me a lot of Hessian of the Hollow. It literally burns my nose when I sniff closely. A little more sour hay and I get the patchouli now, it's strong and masculine but without being dirty/rooty/hippieish. Dry: A lot drier and smoother and much more integrated. That bite has worn off, and now it's like old gunpowder, a sort of rusted metal note, or like old farm machinery - quite evocative. The hay has softened too, less sour and sharp, more dry, warm, and a tad dusty. The wood (sandalwood is definitely present) has gone a bit a dusty and amped up overall, and is *almost* too dry/dusty, but not quite. Later: Patchouli has amped, but like everything else, has become smoother, almost refined, though it remains very masculine. While I still get the herbs, they aren't the bitter raw greenery they were in the wet and early dry stages, but drier and more muted. Summary: This scent feels warm, autumnal, outdoorsy, manly - it's a roll in the hay with a tractor farmhand on a golden October afternoon. I wouldn't call it sexy, but it's extremely evocative, nostalgic, and comforting. I shall be seeking out more. Good throw and longevity. I really wish I could get a bottle of this, and covet more greatly!

Sniffed: Light golden oil. Strongly herbal (lavender and basil?) cologne with some chemically slick leather and the rusty-iron sort of blood note. Potent and a little disturbing. Absolutely masculine but with a hint of sweetness that's slightly sickly. Wet: More leather - brutally sharp - on my skin and the cologne/herbs are a bit soapy. I think the sweetness is from the basil note and a little bit of fennel - it reminds me of this ayuverdic tea I drink with both those. I imagine Le Pere Fouettard lovers would enjoy this, maybe? Irony-blood note holding, going a bit to nutmeg as that note does on my skin. Dry: Increasingly sharp and soapy. It's like De Sade mixed with a really nasty cologne. The cologne part reminds me greatly of another BPAL scent - oh I know! - the Mr. Hyde/Dr. Jekyll DD scents. Especially Hyde as it has that blood note too. I'm pretty sure there is cumin as well in this. And all 3 scents have the sickly sweet herbal cologne base. Ugh. Summary: Chemically-powdery leather, sickly sweet, herbal, and soapy cologne, with a hint of nutmeg-rust. It does fade in throw over time but it starts out very potently and has good longevity. Really not my sort of thing at all.

Sniffed: Pale yellow oil. Perfumey, musky, sweet, feminine. Stronger/more intense than anticipated. I definitely get the heavier floral notes, white amber, and sweet-soda quality of the birch. But it's not overwhelming. Wet: More davana (rather 'pink' and almost like lotus, almost fruity here) and more birch; sweeter. Less of the perfumey heavy florals. I also get a lot of white amber which freshens this, gives it a more 'cologney' feel as well as more depth and certain richness/heaviness. The birch is slightly mentholic in a gorgeous, almost wintry way - it's almost bubbly, and really shines here. There's an almost candy (almost, but not quite) feel, but soft. The immortelle adds a bit of sharpness, a pleasant almost-herbal edge that cuts the sweeter and heavier elements. Dry: This is reminding me strongly of something, and I can't place it. I am, unfortunately, a little more aware now of the ylang ylang and jasmine notes, which though bearable, do make this slightly heady and IMO, make this an 'older' feeling scent. Later: The birch is holding strongly - after Talvikuu, this has the strongest birch note I've noticed - but unfortunately those heady florals have amped further, to the point that they are almost bothering me, especially with the amping of the musk too which makes this a more heavy scent overall. Summary: Musk, musk, delicious musk dominates by miles after a few hours, with birch and white amber just below. Pretty much everything else has faded to the point that I cannot pick the notes out individually, happily in the case of those nemesis florals. It's a sweet, slightly rich, skin/musk blend but still somewhat 'bubbly' feeling, very feminine, and I can see why it's so popular. Very strong throw and longevity. It's not *quite* me....but I find it oddly mesmerising and may need a bottle.

Sniffed: Golden oil. A little bit of cake, a distinct burnt sugar, dark caramel note that is unlike other caramel notes in BPAL - much less sweet, much more aromatic, and really delicious. Then the almond is the strongest note, and it's almost perfumey, like an amber or something, but I like that part. There's also a strong benzaldehyde-fake cherry aspect to the almond that I don't like. Wet: On my skin, much the same, although maybe the cherry-almond extract note is amper? It's a little less sweet. I really wish I got more cake or any sort of a creamy type of note, but I don't at all - this is not a creamy scent in the least. Dry: The perfuminess of this strongly reminds me of another BPAL scent - I THINK Cleopatra Testing Poisons. I get a strong feeling of sweet resiny & syrupy warmth. It reminds of a non-aquatic Thalassa & the Queen of Sheba too. If it weren't for the softly lingering deep caramel note, I wouldn't even call this foody. Later: Okay, now there is a definitely rose note. WTF. It's like almond extract and rose with a hint of dark caramel, but not foody anymore with the emergence of the rose. It is however, a really nice fresh, fruity rose note like in The Rose - in fact, I'm almost positive they share some of the same notes, maybe even some freesia too. Summary: What a morpher! Rose-scented almond extract-flavoured dark caramel.Quite 'perfumey' and I don't think a man could pull this off. Strange and not actually foody in the final drydown. Good throw & longevity.

Sniffed: Deep golden oil. Clean and light, almost grassy in its freshness, almost but not quite cologney. I don't really get a linen note, but there is a definite greenness, a slight sappiness like crushed new green leaves, as well as an underlying 'whiteness' that strikes me as pure and innocent. Wet: A little more sharply green, with a slightly spicy/bright floral note that I'm almost positive is daisy. It feels brighter, whiter, maybe a little more 'yellow' as well as white and green. I'm still not getting any sort of distinct linen note or other 'fabric'-evoking aspect, but this does smells clean and fresh and like laundry drying in the sun - without being soapy or generic in the least. Dry: Wow, it's almost completely gone. I was busy for 30 minutes and now it's fully dry and faded tremendously. However, all the sharpness has worn off and the notes have melded - it's a very soft, light, clean scent. It does remind me of linen and laundry now but not in a way that's like any other BPAL or other brands' attempt at a clean/linen/laundry scent. It's delicate, feminine, and very subtle and I adore it, and am so thrilled that something with my first name is so very lovely. Later: Now in the final later drydown I get a crushed stone note; literally, like someone took granite and smashed it. It's a beautiful mineral element, to me very reminiscent of the finest stone/mineral notes in crisp white wines, so it evokes both that association and a feeling of being in an old granite quarry. Clean, outdoorsy, a sense of purity (for me, always associated with nature) but also a sense of age, of the ancient. This scent expresses perfectly the paradox of ancient, immortal youth. I also get a sweet muskiness now, extremely light, perhaps a faint vanilla musk? It evokes that white girliness, and the feel at this point is one of grey-white pearlescence, or maybe moonstone, or age-polished, worn grey granite or marble. Summary: Very low throw and it fades tremendously at first, but after the initial fade it has good longevity on my skin, and thus slathering should be ideal. I need an infinite supply of this one.

Sniffed: Red musk, slightly spicy, deep - as in dark, lush, but not bright or sharp at all - floral. Mild tinge of sweetness, mostly from the musk I think. Not sure I would have pegged it as a Lily. No soapiness. Mature, sophisticated, complex. Wet: A little more floral, almost greener, feels 'lighter' in colour, more green-white, less deep red. The slight spicy edge makes me think some sort of carnation, and it has that lush sort of velvety feel too. It's almost fresh now, but still very 'womanly'. It's a more subtle, refined variation of traditional oriental-ish perfumes. So maybe some amber in this, too? A golden rich, not powdery, amber. Dry: The red musk is surprisingly well-behaved (not bothering me at all and I hate red musk on principle) and there are definitely other musks at play here, maybe Indian? Very deep and sexy and 'full' yet close to the skin. This is a strong scent but it doesn't have tremendous throw. It's also extremely seamlessly blended in all stages, making picking out notes near-impossible. Later: Not a morpher once on my skin, really. It deepens and becomes more musky, so most of the lighter slightly green-white top notes burn off, leaving behind a softly sweet, rich feminine musk with a spicy edge. It has a lightness to it, and yet it's a very deep scent, a close-to-the-skin scent that seems like second nature. I do not think anyone could find this scent offensive. Summary: As others noted, I find this extremely difficult to describe precisely and while it has the BPAL trademark feel/smell all over it it, it's not really like anything else BPAL's made. But the complexity and cohesion of the scent do recall Storyville & Voodoo Queen though it's not at all foody and much less sweet than either, and has no smoky or boozy qualities. The base blend of musks - definitely the dominating notes in this scent - remind me of Smut. It does NOT strike me as a floral primarily by any means. The throw is lower, but still decent, and this has tremendous holding power. I can still smell it faintly on my arm 24 hours and a shower later! Happily, this is not a scent that fits my personality or scent preferences, but it is stunningly gorgeous and absolutely well made. I hate to say it, but it shall be coveted for eons by many.

Dusty wood and leather with sweet musk below. I find this QUITE woody, heavy on the leather (which I agree, is unlike the other BPAL leather notes), and overall 'dry' in feel. It definitely conveys the concept. This leather isn't as powdery/chemically as De Sade and while it has a bit of the 'old' leather feel - it's not my beloved Dead Man's Hand. The leather seems sweet, a first for leather that I've observed. Smoky - yes, but mildly. I dislike smoke in general, but I find this to be a lovely gentle smokiness, and I would wear it (though this scent is much too masculine overall for me to wear personally). I get a lot of slightly medicinal sage - it's a bit harsh - and maybe the sweetness is partially the sweetgrass, but I definitely can't pick that note out. There is a tang that reminds me of rusty nails, though I wouldn't peg it as blood. It dries down to a dusty leather/musk/cologne/wood scent. It's quite sexy on the roommate's [male] skin, but too dry on mine.

I get incensey resins, a sort of soft woodsiness, something a little powdery-soapy (golden amber I think), and that sweet beeswax folks are talking about. It's surprisingly nice, though not my sort of thing. The beeswax note however is DIVINE, and I agree that this has a warm/golden L'Estate-like feel.

Sniffed: Extremely pale nearly colourless yellow oil. Fruity, floral, and woody all at once. The sandalwood is surprisingly strong and quite dry. I get every note except the bergamot. The rose isn't overwhelming by any means. Wet: Sweeter and tarter (bergamot!), overall much fruitier. Also greener with a strong amping of the oud and almost dusty from the still-strong sandalwood. The overall blend makes my nose itch a bit. Dry: Plum and rose have both amped, giving this a deep magenta feel; the bergamot is still holding nicely and keeps those former notes in check. But the woods have turned almost rancid, dry and hot and foul - they lie below the other notes but still annoy. Summary: Dusty, almost incensey woods with slightly powdery rose and candy-sweet plum. Overwhelmingly it's sandalwood incense. Much better than the initial dry stage but still not remotely my thing. Too dry/incensey/woody. Unisex, I'd say. Low throw but fantastic longevity.

Sniffed: Pale yellow oil. White peach and white flowers, maybe some skin musk? Not that sweet. Wet: Sweeter, more cloying, more peachy - almost a little syrupy. I get a hint of bitter almond, I think? Or maybe peach kernel? It's that same note from Cleopatra Testing Poisons. A bit of soapy and intense floral, probably gardenia. Dry: The gardenia amps up for a brief time but then settles down, while the white peach and peach kernel balance each other perfectly. I usually find the lab's white peach note too sweet, but the slight bitterness of the peach kernel complements it so well. Summary: I also get a little mandarin or tangerine (sweet-tart and juicy), and maybe a rose, or that yellow monkey flower accord? Because I am totally getting a white peach version of Schlafende Baigneuse right now. A very balanced but delicate feeling fruity-floral. I don't like white peach, but this is nice.

Pale yellow oil. Fake cherry/benzaldehyde/almond extract. Medicinal, almost mentholic, and sharp/piercing. My nose actually twinged with pain just sniffing this. I am not a fan of fake cherry, so I won't test this one further.

Sniffed: Extremely pale yellow oil. Clean, fresh, slightly floral cologne. Maybe a little aquatic? Very light and a little brisk, possibly citrusy. Wet: Sweeter, heavier, but still quite fresh. I get some sort of greenery, some type of herb - maybe basil or tomato leaf? A little spicy and masculine but garden-y and almost culinary. I also think there's a bit of bergamot in here. Less floral - it's more a general cologne feel now. Dry: This sort of reminds me of Planting Moon minus the soil notes - similar green freshness with soft wildflowers. There's an almost powdery sweetness though, actually not unlike powdered sugar, which makes this less masculine of a scent. Later: Reminds me of some of the Dorian CTs I tried - sugary tea/musk drydown green-herbal, slightly floral cologne. Quite nice, if a little sweet and a little herbal for my personal tastes.

Sniffed: Deep cola-coloured brownish red oil; viscous. Herbal-medicinal with a boozy edge. It reminds me strongly of Bitters and a certain herbal cough medicine I've had, as well as a bit of Ricola cough drops. Heavy, sharp, a little mentholic, with a touch of sweetness.

Sniffed: Very pale yellow oil. Soft, gently sweet powder/dust. Almost a little musky, or maybe some amber - it's a skin-like scent. Wet: Dustier, dryer, woodier. Cedar for sure, and maybe some rosewood; I also get some sort of incense, and maybe some sandalwood. It reminds me of the faint smell left certain New Age shops, sort of wispy and hazy - it also reminds me a bit of Smoky Moon. Dry: Amber and dry woods with maybe a little skin musk. Later dry down has the same sort of coconutty-sweet musk as Buck Moon.

Sniffed: Light yellow oil. Slightly soapy white flowers and zesty white citrus, almost pithy. Fresh, zingy, vaguely aquatic/cologney. Reminds me of Szessapony. Ozone tingles my nose. Wet: White tea (slick and slightly sweet) and a iittle ginger - suddenly, I'm reminded very much of Baobhan Sith, though this is more floral/aquatic. It reminds me also of a very delicious dryer sheet. Refreshing and soothing at the same time; very clean but not overly bright. Ozone gives the impression of ionized air, and this reminds me a bit of Lightning, too. Dry: Huh...I swear I'm getting a metal note now, chrome and shiny, and the ozone is so strong in this. The grapefruit has sweetened up - it's no longer bitter and has a juicy edge, more like pink grapefruit. Still a bit of floral cologne, but less soapy. I find this more unisex now, whereas before it was more masculine. Summary: Super musky ozone-floral-grapefruit drydown. It's quite nice, sexy and clean. I put it in the same boat as 51 and June Gloom 2009. Lower throw but good longevity.

Sniffed: Light yellow oil. Slightly soapy/cologney fruit, rather fresh. Citrus of some type? Maybe tangerine? Wet: Definitely citrus zest, maybe green mandarin - also a little juicier. Still very fresh and clean with a hint of white floral. It sort of reminds me of Szeppanony and Aizen-Myoo. Something sweet underlyling everything. Dry: Increasingly soapy with very strong throw. Later: Soap.

Sniffed: Pale yellow oil. Clean white floral and something harshly chemical. Wet: Narcissus, maybe? I also get a hint of tea, white tea specifically. It's a little powdery, in a pleasant way, like the violet in Faith. or Violet Ray. Softer but still a bit chemical on my skin. Dry: I know what that chemical note is - leather! De Sade style leather. The tea/leather combo reminds me a bit of Severin, although this has soft, feminine violet powder to temper it. It's a weird mix. Later: Goes to awful powder, diapery, with plastic chemical leather on top and a whisper of white tea. And I still stand by the narcissus. This really amps up on my skin to a ridiculous degree. Off to sink now. NOT seeing any J-K similarities.

Sniffed: Light yellow oil. Rich, creamy vanilla cake with a slightly buttery edge, sweet orange and lemon - kind of reminds me of Meyer lemon, or marmelade, or candied peel, or all of those. Foody! Wet: Tarter, more lemon and less orange, with a hint of Pledge - the citrus is a little harsh now. Less creamy and more buttery; this is richer and heavier although it's less sweet. I don't get any spice, but it does remind me a bit of Huesos de Santo now. Dry: Not much change - the butter/lemon notes are merging more, clashing less, maybe. Very slow to dry. Later: Creamy lemon-vanilla frosting. This dries down quite beautifully, with almost a musky edge. I never got any spice.