Invidiana

This reminds me a lot of Samhainophobia but a bit sweeter. I think I'm amping the olibanum, and the sweet aspect of resins automatically shine on my skin most of the time. I was afraid of Attack of the Vetiver Death here but the vetiver is actually very subtle, just adding to the earthiness of the blend. The patchouli is prominent but smooth and rich. The ash note adds a smoky touch but isn't overwhelming or masculine. Overall this is pleasantly smoky in an autumnal way, very reminiscent of the Halloweenies, and I think I'm going to need a bottle at some point.

I wasn't expecting to but I actually quite like this. It's primarily leather wet, but as it dries down a lovely vanillic tonka and just a hint of sweet booze (not astringent at all) emerges. As it dries down further it also reveals a light musky and woody background. It isn't at all as masculine as I expected and totally wearable.

I was really hoping for an onslaught of caramel and sultana raisins, but unfortunately it seems the tobacco and herbs dominate. I do get a hint of the caramelly notes in the background but this is predominantly tobacco and sage on my skin. I do get quite a bit of sandalwood as well and while it is a lovely sandalwood the blend as a whole is just too overbearingly masculine on me. However, I do imagine it would have more success on a male specimen.

This is mostly sweet honey mead and rum on me. I get hints of hazelnut, almond and buttercream but the two heady booze notes are at the forefront. It's not a blast of alcohol, just thick sweet liquor. This one badly tempts me to lick my wrist.

THE COMMITTEE OF 300: MEETING MINUTES Who knows who you are? You control all of the world, Shadow government. The East India Trading Company, in cahoots with the British aristocracy, founded the Committee of 300, or Olympians, in 1727. Utilizing wealth amassed via the burgeoning opium trade, the Olympians began to control worldwide commerce, politics, media, and the military forces of countless nations to further their vision of a New World Order. Through media manipulation, the instigation of limited, concentrated wars, the destruction of natural resources, the annihilation of religious beliefs and practices, international political and social convulsions, and the forced collapse of national economies through artificial depressions and market exploitation, the Olympians plan on subjugating the "surplus population" of the world. An ominous round table for the quintessential Round Table Group: polished wood, tobacco smoke, faded cologne, and neon discharge. This is extremely masculine on me. My skin tends to really amp many masculine notes to the point of smelling like total man, and there's no exception here. Wet it's entirely an overwhelming wood and lemon Pledge scent and while those remain dominant throughout the entire drydown what emerges as it dries down only adds to its glaring masculinity. The lemon-Pledge-doused wood becomes shrouded in a strong and unforgiving tobacco smoke, not strong enough to overtake them but potent enough to declare this really belongs on a man. The cologne and "neon discharge" notes only add to the sharpness of the whole lemon Pledge thing, since my skin chemistry loves to evilly amp lemon anything to no avail and fully takes advantage of its opportunity to do so here. On a guy who does not amp lemon to the degree I do, though, I can imagine this would be tolerable and even sexy. I just can't wear it myself.

This is a really airy and ethereal scent perfect for sending you off to dreamland. It tart off a bit piney but soon it truly becomes a misty forest full of delicate wildflowers and a hint of woodland berry. It reminds me of the Gossamer proto in a way, not the same scent but in a similar vein. Now my room can smell like Lothlorien.

So here we have another lovely ghost ship story: the Lady Lovibond set sail on Feb. 13 of all days. Her captain thought it would make a novel setting for his wedding reception belowdecks; what he didn't see coming was the jealous first mate who allegedly crashed the ship into a sand bank. Its phantom is said to reappear around there every 50 years. This is a multifaceted blend. It actually evokes the atmosphere of a tropical locale where a ship like the Lady Lovibond (which was actually headed to Portugal) would dock for the honeymoon that never happened: lush greens and heady exotic blooms, possibly orchid, tuberose, ylang ylang, pikake. I'm tempted to say gardenia but I don't distinctly get gardenia from this though it may be hiding in there somewhere since the floral aspect has an overall tropical vibe. The greens start off a little sharp and slightly lemony but the lemony tinge quickly mellows and allows the flowers to shine. I In the background there is that same distinct seaspray note as in the Mary Celeste proto, except it is given an additional burst of refreshment by what must definitely be a hint of cucumber. It doesn't scream cucumber per se, just gives it a vibe of clear skies and open air above the sparkling ocean water. The sea and sky coupled with the leaves and flowers make for an entire scented landscape. All these elements make for a fascinating blend, and I imagine it will only improve with age. Methinks there is a ghost ship series being tinkered with here. It's tantalizing me like hell and I only hope it becomes a reality!

I *think* the Weisse Maus proto has linden, which was something Yeahbutnobut touched on after I'd reviewed it because I wasn't too familiar with linden at the time: Weisse Maus v4 Keep an eye on Etsy because it wasn't sold out during the WC so there must be leftovers hiding somewhere. ETA link.

I have to say this is my favorite of the Nepthys protos. Though Nepthys was a goddess symoblic of death for the ancient Egyptians, this scent is actually full of life. Wet I get an initial burst of grapefruit; this is a sweet ruby red grapefruit, bright and sunny and not at all astringent, more like the rays of sunlight that give the Valley of the Kings an otherworldly golden glow during the daytime. On the drydown a beautiful warm and exotic Egyptian musk emerges, mingling with the grapefruit to evoke a bath of sunlight that leaves your skin with a sensual warmth. It's simple, but beautiful.

This started off as a sheer herbal scent with a slight sweetness, and I was hoping it would dry down to reveal some golden gloriousness from the amber and musk but it ended up drying down into all the gloriousness of Palmolive. Which is nostalgic in a way because that's all my mom ever washed dishes with when I was a kid, but I still don't want to smell like Palmolive.

Today's lesson: linden is not my friend. I was really hoping to like this, and it starts off promising enough wet; very sheer and ethereal. However, the more it dries down, the more it morphs into lemon Pledge. Apparently I amp linden like I do lemongrass and lemon verbena. I ended up having to scrub it off my arm. Gah.

I was lucky enough to find a bottle of this even after my wretched luck with Etsy timing. Rose can be iffy with me but this is damn incredible. In the bottle, it smells like deep red roses--obviously. Since there is no way something this rare is going in my bathwater and down the drain, I rubbed a dab on my skin since that's how I intend to use it. It was still predominantly rose wet so I waited about a minute for it to dry down. If this isn't the most beautiful rose blend I've ever smelled in my life. True to what others have said, it is indeed a rich, velvety red rose backed by soft vanilla musk, and it only keeps developing as it continues drying down. The rose gets more body from the other "red" notes of dragon's blood and sugared berries (which lend it a bit of sugary sweetness but don't overpower it) which meld with it to create the impression of an otherwordly rose. I don't really get much citrusy mandarin but it might be responsible for a little tartness. The sandalwood emerges in the background, lending a certain sensual warmth to the blend along with the musk. Later on the tuberose and champa become evident too, giving the blend something of an exotic feel. So many rose blends have gone wrong on me but I cannot stop huffing this one. I am so sad more of this cannot be made. I would gladly pay whatever price would recoup the cost of the ingredients for the Lab if they were to make it available as an LE, but in the meantime I will treasure every drop of my bottle.

***desperately seeking a sniffie of Pumpkin King; only needs a trace amount of oil. I must know once and for all if this is going to be worth hoarding money for or not!*** Things I have tried/own some of and am looking for as much as I can find: Egyptian Amber SN Lughnasadh Mabon (original only) ***Pumpkin Hard Candy*** The Confectionary proto The Heraeon of Argos Unseelie.....hah Things I haven't tried but lust after so hard, I must have whatever I can manage to find! Black Amber SN Black Cherry SN Dark Chocolate (Gaiman) Egyptian Musk SN Fig SN Hellfire (original formulation only) Horror Coaster proto Night Parade of 1000 Demons proto Raspberry SN Toasted Coconut SN Waxworks proto Things I would love to try in sniffie form first: any of this year's randomly named protos (except TX30 which I already own), Beltane, Blue Moon 04, CD protos I haven't yet tried (see bottom), Citrinitas v4, F54, Frost Moon, Gaslight, Harvest Moon 04, Ingenue, Orange (Gaiman), Pink Moon 05, Moon of Ice, Morella, Needle in a Haystack, Noir, Pumpkin King, Poe, Red Moon 04, Semiramis, SNs I haven't yet tried (see bottom), Storm Moon, any Tarot blends, Tattie Bogle, Unseelie, Whippoorwill GCs I need more imps of to fill DIY bottles: Aeval, Akuma, Black Annis, Bon Vivant, Carnal, Dana O'Shee, Depraved, Drink Me, Eat Me, Grog, Helle's Belle, Kabuki, Kill-Devil, Morgause, Seraglio, Scherezade, Skuld, The Bow & Crown of Conquest, The Harlot's House Other GCs I definitely want bottles of (will also take imps) : Alice, Against Idleness & Mischief, Arachne of Lydia, Bard (RPG), Belle Epoque, Black Hellebore Honey, Chokecherry Honey, Cockaigne, Courtney, Cyborg, Dawn: Maiden, Deadly Nightshade Honey, Debauchery, Detestable Putrescence, Dirty, Dragon's Milk, Dwarven Ale (RPG), Eclipse, Eden, Evil (RPG), Glasgow, Goblin, Gomorrah, Half-Elf (RPG), Halfling (RPG), Hecate, Hellcat, Hideous Heart, Hollywood Babylon, Horreur Sympathique, How Doth the Little Crocodile, Jailbait, Josie, La Petite Mort, Lawful (RPG), Lust, Mage (RPG), Molly Grue, Mommy Fortuna, Morocco, Mouse's Long and Sad Tale, Neil, Neutral (RPG), Paladin (RPG), Pandy, Pele, Queen Alice, Ravenous, Salma, Schmendrick, Sin, Sudha Segara, The Butterfly, The East, The Lilac Wood, The Midnight Carnival, The Ninth Cage, The Red Queen, The Queen of Hearts, Thieves' Rosin (RPG), Uruk, Vial of Holy Water (RPG), Whip, Witchblade CD protos I've already tried or own: Alley of Games v4 (own), Black Widow Circus, CD023 (own), CD Tilt v4, Fire Dancer v6 (own), Misfortune Teller v3 (own), The Fire-Scorched Carousel (own), The Confectionary, The Toymaker SNs I've already tried or own: Egyptian Amber (own one treasured imp!), Honey, Plum, Sweet Pea (own), Vanilla, White Musk (own) I may also accept more of many things I already have, so just try me; the worst I can do is say no. Iffy notes: anise, apple, aquatics, bergamot, grass, ozone, rose Get it away: cedar, cologney scents, eucalyptus, heavy dirt, jasmine (except star or sambac), lemongrass, lemon myrtle, lemon verbena, strong herbals

This one is a prime example of never judge a scent by its wet stage. Wet it was a little sharp, mostly from the verbena, which worried me, but I gave it the benefit of the doubt and let it dry down for a couple of minutes. That was the best thing I could have done. Dry the verbena is virtually nonexistant and gives way to a smoky,resinous scent sweetened by almond milk and honey-tinged beeswax, with a hint of something that hit me very much like raw cacao(I'm guessing this is from the cocoa butter). The further it dries down, the better it gets; the sandalwood and guiacwood emerge more and more and lend it a deep sexy warmth. The scent perfectly fit the butterfly and the thing for which it was named; it is reminiscent of a plush dark velvet cloak with an aura of allure about it. I think of the overall feel of this scent as less of a mourning shroud and more as a shroud of mystery.

Something about this in the wet stage reminds me of Spicebush Swallowtail, a sweet and slightly spicy feel. It's in the drydown that this species of swallowtail differentiates itself from Spicebush and actually reminds me more of blends like Black Butterfly Moon and Lune Noir. The black plum and opium poppy are definitely there but very sheer, and so are the resins and berries. I think the lime was what gave it that tang that reminded me of spicebush in the beginning but as it dries down it doesn't exactly come out citrusy but adds a clean lightness to the blend. This becomes an ethereal dark scent with its own singular mystique; there is a freshness to it but it's a dusky freshness, like shadows looming in the summer twilight. Gorgeous.

At first this is fruity and candylike, almost like Pez, but as it dries down it becomes a lot more adult. It's not particularly heavy on the red musk but some definitely comes through and gives it a hazy veil of sensuality. There is also a tropical quality to this scent coming from the mango and possibly also the way the mango combines with the other fruits; when I sniffed this wet I almost thought there was pineapple in it till I reread the notes. I don't particularly pick out any herbs but there is something drier the background balancing out all the fruity elements. This is a really pretty summer scent that is sweet and musky without being cloying.

This one is intoxicating. It starts off stronger on the coffee, which gradually mellows out and gives way to a lovely deep caramelly scent with vanillic undertone, almost like black vanilla. There is a dark woody background to it a well which adds more mystique. The coffee is still there, but blends seamlesly with the woods, adding a smoky effect. It's a thick, rich scent with strong throw and would make a definite impression.

I have an odd thing for cicadas so it's no surprise I had to have this. Wet there is something sharp and greenish about it, which I think comes from the hemp, but it quickly mellows out into a gorgeously sweet, warm and slightly earthy scent. The resinous sweetness of tree sap and amber is supported by a slight creaminess from the rice milk (which--dare I say it--is reminiscent of that in Jingo-Kogo though the two scents are nothing alike) and almond blossoms, some nuttiness from the acorn, a certain warmth from sun-soaked hay and corn stalks, and earthy moss to ground. Wherever the hemp is I don't really get any in the final drydown. This is just a comforting as the buzz of cicadas lulling you to sleep at night and like a marriage of late summer and autumn.

This is AMAZING. It' actually what I was hoping Khrysee would smell like. Thick, golden, sensual raw honey that only gets heightened by the saffron. The further it dries down, the tonka and brown sugar add a warm vanillic depth and the tobacco leaf jut a hint of smokiness. I know this probably sounds perverted given its name, but Pussy is pure sex. I'm going to need at least one more bottle before these come down.

This is so much better than the original HGM. THe original smelled like ginger tea to my nose but this one is more of a lightly musky vanillaed citrus. I get a lot of the smoky vanilla, grapefruit and sugarcane melding nicely with everything else in the background, and it becomes muskier in a clean-musky type of way as it continues drying down. It's a perfect summer scent that's just sweet enough but not overpowering with a hint of smokiness for added mystery.

YES. This Thirteen ties the October 06 one for deliciousness in my book. I don't even know what a couple of components in this smell like (yohimbe?) but I definitely get a warm smoky patchouli backed by cacao, vanilla, honey and sandalwood, in that order, with just a hint of spice. There is definitley a sexy zing from the saffron in there as well. I actually don't smell any rose! If I really concentrate I can tell there's the slightest hint of it there but there is nothing that jumps out as "rose" in this. It's like Banshee Beat's evil cousin and going to age gloriously.

I'm always going to think of this one as Dothraki Moon because of the whole horselord thing. At this point I'm not really sure how I feel about it. It's initially sharp out of the bottle, with strong grapevine and olive leaf tones. As it dries down it sweetens more from the wine and resins. This isn't a wine that goes sour on me, thankfully; in fact I feel it smells more like dark grape than wine. The smoky notes also emerge in the final drydown as the vine/leaf ones take a backseat. It ends up being a smoky and slightly sweet fruit and resin scent. To get a real opinion on this I think I'm going to have to age it.

HELIOS The Sun, the source of light, by beauty's pow'r Once am'rous grew; then hear the Sun's amour. Venus, and Mars, with his far-piercing eyes This God first spy'd; this God first all things spies. Stung at the sight, and swift on mischief bent, To haughty Juno's shapeless son he went: The Goddess, and her God gallant betray'd, And told the cuckold, where their pranks were play'd. Poor Vulcan soon desir'd to hear no more, He drop'd his hammer, and he shook all o'er: Then courage takes, and full of vengeful ire He heaves the bellows, and blows fierce the fire: >From liquid brass, tho' sure, yet subtile snares He forms, and next a wond'rous net prepares, Drawn with such curious art, so nicely sly, Unseen the mashes cheat the searching eye. Not half so thin their webs the spiders weave, Which the most wary, buzzing prey deceive. These chains, obedient to the touch, he spread In secret foldings o'er the conscious bed: The conscious bed again was quickly prest By the fond pair, in lawless raptures blest. Mars wonder'd at his Cytherea's charms, More fast than ever lock'd within her arms. While Vulcan th' iv'ry doors unbarr'd with care, Then call'd the Gods to view the sportive pair: The Gods throng'd in, and saw in open day, Where Mars, and beauty's queen, all naked, lay. O! shameful sight, if shameful that we name, Which Gods with envy view'd, and could not blame; But, for the pleasure, wish'd to bear the shame. Each Deity, with laughter tir'd, departs, Yet all still laugh'd at Vulcan in their hearts. Thro' Heav'n the news of this surprizal run, But Venus did not thus forget the Sun. He, who stol'n transports idly had betray'd, By a betrayer was in kind repay'd. What now avails, great God, thy piercing blaze, That youth, and beauty, and those golden rays? Thou, who can'st warm this universe alone, Feel'st now a warmth more pow'rful than thy own: And those bright eyes, which all things should survey, Know not from fair Leucothoe to stray. The lamp of light, for human good design'd, Is to one virgin miserly confin'd. Sometimes too early rise thy eastern beams, Sometimes too late they set in western streams: 'Tis then her beauty thy swift course delays, And gives to winter skies long summer days. Now in thy face thy love-sick mind appears, And spreads thro' impious nations empty fears: For when thy beamless head is wrapt in night, Poor mortals tremble in despair of light. 'Tis not the moon, that o'er thee casts a veil 'Tis love alone, which makes thy looks so pale. Leucothoe is grown thy only care, Not Phaeton's fair mother now is fair. The youthful Rhodos moves no tender thought, And beauteous Porsa is at last forgot. Fond Clytie, scorn'd, yet lov'd, and sought thy bed, Ev'n then thy heart for other virgins bled. Leucothoe has all thy soul possest, And chas'd each rival passion from thy breast. To this bright nymph Eurynome gave birth In the blest confines of the spicy Earth. Excelling others, she herself beheld By her own blooming daughter far excell'd. The sire was Orchamus, whose vast command, The sev'nth from Belus, rul'd the Persian Land. Deep in cool vales, beneath th' Hesperian sky, For the Sun's fiery steeds the pastures lye. Ambrosia there they eat, and thence they gain New vigour, and their daily toils sustain. While thus on heav'nly food the coursers fed, And night, around, her gloomy empire spread, The God assum'd the mother's shape and air, And pass'd, unheeded, to his darling fair. Close by a lamp, with maids encompass'd round, The royal spinster, full employ'd, he found: Then cry'd, A-while from work, my daughter, rest; And, like a mother, scarce her lips he prest. Servants retire!- nor secrets dare to hear, Intrusted only to a daughter's ear. They swift obey'd: not one, suspicious, thought The secret, which their mistress would be taught. Then he: since now no witnesses are near, Behold! the God, who guides the various year! The world's vast eye, of light the source serene, Who all things sees, by whom are all things seen. Believe me, nymph! (for I the truth have show'd) Thy charms have pow'r to charm so great a God. Confus'd, she heard him his soft passion tell, And on the floor, untwirl'd, the spindle fell: Still from the sweet confusion some new grace Blush'd out by stealth, and languish'd in her face. The lover, now inflam'd, himself put on, And out at once the God, all-radiant, shone. The virgin startled at his alter'd form, Too weak to bear a God's impetuous storm: No more against the dazling youth she strove, But silent yielded, and indulg'd his love. The searing brightness of the sun: Gum Arabic, frankincense, liquid copal, cistus, neroli, golden cedarwood, and saffron. Wow. I have to say, and not just because my heritage is Greek, that all the scents in this series are just fantastic. Beth really has managed to capture the searing brightness of the sun in Helios without burning any nostrils. This is a gorgeous, shining, exotic resinous scent, bolder than Clytie but every bit as evocative and compelling. The frankincense and copal are really the two key players at the forefront here, really shining in all their glory. Like the frankincense in Clytie, neither the frankincense or copal here is dark and brooding (though I love those versions too), but rather proud and shining, with the same "liquid gold" feel as Clytie. I love gum mastic and gum Arabic, and can definitely smell the smooth sweetness of it here as well. The resins are backed by sensual cedarwood (which surprisingly behaves on me) and saffron, and there is just a breath of florals in the background that is discernible but not overbearing. Another winner from this series!

This is a zingy juicy tangerine, red musk and pomegranate for a couple seconds until gaaaaah geranium. It completely stomps over everything as geranium usually does with my chemistry. What a shame, because I love red musk scents and I think without that infernal plant I would have really liked this.

Wet I get a lot of lemon meringue, but as this dries down the lemony stuff fades to just a trace and lots of lovely clouds of vanilla and white chocolate come out to play, dotted with hints of mint and absinthe. Thi isn't an overpowering absinthe scent like Absinthe; there's just a trace of it to hint at somehting sinister but it's mostly lovely creamy vanilla and white chocolate on me.