suki

in the vial- strong aquatic note, plus juniper. wet on skin-it's the same, but the juniper is coming out a bit more now, balancing the aqua more. dry down-the juniper is gone, all that's left is salty tears. in all-although it's probably well documented by this point that i am no aquatic fan, this is something pretty special. the addition of the salt note changes the aqua into something i actually like- the smell of the ocean, which is a sacred place for me. i figured i'd wind up getting a bottle of this for ritual use, and i'm glad it smells like sea water, because it couldn't be more perfect. i also suspect that when the summer comes, i may be *quite* receptive to wearing this on days i visit the ocean.

in the decant i got this sweet, almost "buttery" (but NOT foodie) metalic/ozone/not-quite-aquatic thing going on. complex, and yet i knew immediately this was not the whole story. wet on my skin, i got a hint of that musk some people have mentioned, and the not-quite-aqua continued on it's course. in the dry down it became that beautiful-and yes, delicate-metallic note that i first experienced in Needle in a Haystack. it's *almost* a lemon note, only it's not- it's burnished metal. in all, i had intentions of getting a full bottle of this for spell work no matter what it smelled like. i also was hesitant about the metal, because i'm a silversmith- i work with metal all day long, and so didn't really feel like i needed to smell it even MORE. however, this manages to keep an essence of what real metal smells like when i'm working with it, and yet make it smell far more ephemeral and delicate than *I* smell at the end of a long day in the studio. in short- a total treasure.

first of all, the soft green velveteen pouch this bottle came in is SOOOO nice- i have several of the black ones and i must say, this green one is just that much...nicer. ok! on with the review! in the bottle: i had spiced red wine once, several years ago, and this is pretty much *exactly* as i remember it being- full of those wonderful yule spices and heavy, deep red, red wine. i'm swoony and slightly drunk already wet on skin: totally the same, no deviation. dry down: the wine is still totally present, just a bit more blended in with everything else- exactly as it is when you have a good cup of hot mulled wine on a snowy, snowy eve. in all: the goblins have blessed me well this holiday/birthday season and i love, love, LOVE them for it!

As sweet as death, as deep as the grave: pomegranate, raspberry, gardenia, plum, and rose with patchouli, black pepper, rose musk, and a hint of blood accord. i procured both the Queen and Her crypt from Forumite Tarotgirl in a fabulous swap- i have long lusted after this lady and her regal home, hoping that Her scent would work on me. i am NOT disappointed! in the bottle: all sweet fruits, but there is an edge of something...darker under the sweetness. this is not the fruit of, say Fruit Moon or Teenage Cannibal. oh, no. wet on skin: the Darkness advances. dry down: the fruits have calmed down and blended with what i can only describe as the Demon's Musk- dark, feral, and totally irresistible! in all: perfectly capturing that feeling of reading a book like Queen of the Damned, this Queen is perfectly suited to her home: She is dark, She is musky, and She is utterly alluring- i have waited a long time for a Lady like her.

i have been avoiding the Panacea oils, i'm not sure why. i guess because i know i need them all, and also that they mean business. this isn't just "oh, let me toss this on cause it smells good". no. this is serious stuff. but it's time. so i started with TKO. as a person with intense and chronic sleep problems coupled with post traumatic stress and the lopping thoughts that often accompany it, TKO seemed like the right one to try first. i was not disappointed. first of all, it smells like a combination of lavender and cream, which was a bonus, because although "medicinal" scents are more for their healing powers, it's always nice when they smell good, too. i put some TKo on my hands right before i fell into bed. and i was out like a light. now, i *was* really tired, it's true. but i often get the type of insomnia where i'm fully exhausted and still can't fall asleep easily. but this felt pretty miraculous. i'm a changed person- one who has to get all the Panacea to help what ails me.

this is for the 2006 version. in the bottle: *heavy* frankincense, a tiny hint of myrrh. wet on skin: ohhhh, it's changing! it's a rich sweet, resin-y incense now. just beautiful! dry down: yes, that sweet resin incense-y wonderfulness has stayed true. in all: this is the incense scent to end them all- rich and heady, but with surprisingly low throw, this oil stays close to the body, giving the impression that the wearer makes holy all they come in contact with. a great, magical scent.

this is the 2005 version. in the bottle: a real, red rose in full bloom, late june or early july. amazing. wet on skin: more of the same- i don't get the "perfume-y" aspect some folks have mentioned. this smells like a fresh rose to me. dry down: just glorious. it hasn't changed at all from first bottle-sniff to dry down. a perfect, fresh rose. in all: i'm *really* picky about my florals- i only like violet and rose to begin with, and i only like those notes about half the time. but this is just a perfect, perfect fresh rose. it's like i picked a red rose and rubbed it's petals on my skin. that's the experience of this. i didn't try the one that came out last year, but this 2005 bottle is one i will totally treasure. (a very special thanks to Shelldoo for the hook up on this one! )

as with another Yule scent, the description of this oil didn't excite me, but then i got to test it at EC Will Call and i was immediately won over! in the bottle: spicy dark musk and heavy ambrette. wet on skin: same, but the sweetness of the tonka is starting to come through. dry down: the ambrette calms down considerably and becomes much more integrated. this is important because at first it comes off as very old-lady-perfume. but on the dry down, it calms and this beautiful and complex mix of spice and musk emerge. warm, sultry and sexy in a way that reminds me a bit of VooDoo Queen, this is just wonderful. in all: a must-have for anyone who likes their oils deep, sensuous and mysterious. :D

i have to say that while i like the notes involved, the Lick It series never grabbed me. then i went to EC Will Call and had a chance to give the latest incarnation a sniff and i was sold on the spot! here's my review: in the bottle: yummy bright peppermint and sweet vanilla! wet on skin: same dry down: same! a heavenly mix of peppermint and vanilla. less like a candy cane, more like peppermint cake frosting! in all: a delicious scent, i plan to wear this all year long, not just during the holidays. medium throw, and i am betting it'll be GREAT for layering as well. a total keeper!

in the bottle: this reminds me strongly of the type of cider i would get when i lived in the deep, deep South. they weren't apple cider, but sort of a mix of various fruits into a delicious cider-reminiscent drink for chlly days. wet on skin: this has changed *dramatically* on contact with my skin. it's more fresh, almost "green" smelling, but not of evergreen. more like what i associate with aloe smelling like. dry down: what?! i'm totally confused. after the Aloe Takeover, upon drying, it's now gone back to fruit, only now it's become a fruit-and-nut holiday blend of yumminess, without being terribly foodie. in all: a total morpher on me, this scent is none the less totally great and interesting and beautiful. i want to come back to it in a month, to see how the various elements have come together. i feel really lucky to have gotten a bottle of this.

this is for the 2008 "Beaverversary" edition in the bottle: all creamy cheesecake and a touch of those cupcakes! nomnomnom wet on skin: more of the same, a hint of the graham crust starting to show itself. dry down:mostly the crust is present, in all it's graham-y, sugared glory. in all: i came by my bottle of Beaver Moon '05 from a sale just in this past year, so it's very well aged. with this resurrection, i can tell that all the elements are present, they just need some time to mesh a bit more. i look forward to re-visiting this bottle once it's aged a bit.

in the bottle: candied fruits. but not like strawberry moon, which had a sort of "licorice twist" scent, this smells more like freshly sugared fruits. wet on skin: same, blooming beautifully dry down: sugary candy with a sweet bouquet of flowers nearby- a touch of chrysanthemum, a hint of carnation and piles of raspberries, strawberries and crystal sugar. in all: less sweet than Sticky Pillowcase, this is one to try for those of you that found that one a bit too sugary. love!

another great label in this series, first off. second, as i mentioned in another review, this oil came wrapped in it's very own BPAL velveteen "imp" pouch. can i say "LOVE"?! now the review... in the bottle: super yummy strawberry creme and a hint of tart grapefruit, much like the citrus from Bigger Critter. wet on skin: holy. moly. for a foodie like me, this is shaping up to be one of those "holy grail" BPAL scent experiences. Strawberry cake, whipped cream and a grapefruit candied garnish. nomnomnom dry down: a beautiful mix of sweet white cake, strawberry creme and a little bit of sugar. in all: not too sweet, light throw and totally blended from the first, this is foodie paradise, and the one that just might get a non-foodie to change camps! love. love. love.

first of all, i want to concur with Tigrrrlily- the label for this oil is SOOOO cute! especially for a saucy scent that boasts several types of musk! i also want to say that i was thrilled to find both the scents that i ordered from this new series came packaged in their own very covetable black velveteen BPAL silver imp bags. swoon! now, on with the review... in the bottle: strong black musk and a hint of red tea in the back ground. wet on skin: the "tea" notes are coming out a bit more now, but not in the light way that, say Icabod Crane did. this is a robust smell, dark, almost masculine. i would even say animalistic. dry down: this is...wow. i thought it was going to be something like Smut, since it has several different types of musk. but it's like a demonic relative of Smut. musky, but feral. like one of those sexy female serial killers that seduces their victims. or a vampire who plays with her food before going in for the kill. (:WHY: don't we have any sexy vampire emoticons when i need them?!) in all: a perfect deep, wintertime musk blend, without gender but full of sexual force. a must-have. :D

in the bottle: balsam tolu, a hint of sage and something that smells like lemon creme to my nose. wet on skin: the citrus mixes with a fabulous oiled-metal note that leaves me swooning! dry down: i agree with the person who said it's like wood and metal being rubbed with beeswax. but i'd go a bit farther and say rubbed with beeswax AND lemon creme pie! in all: a beautiful steampunk scent, i can't wait to see what happens when this stuff has a chance to age and blend a bit more! :D

in the bottle: olive and beeswax. wet on skin: same. the olive is really nice, a little "green". lovely. dry down: olive and beeswax, holding strong, in equal amounts. i get no other notes from this. in all: although this has two of the same main notes as Hanerot Halalu, it translates into something rather different. perhaps the addition in that blend of smoke is the big change but for whatever reason, Tabella comes across as "clean" instead of "sacred". i am finding i really adore the ways these two notes interact and i anticipate that it will only get better with age. buy or swap for a bottle while you still can- this won't be back again.

in the imp: mostly lemon verbena. there is a slight, *slight* hint of wetness, but i wouldn't come out and call it an aqua note. wet on skin: same as above. dry down: yup, the staying power of lemon verbena just can't be matched. in all: a nice, light verbena-based oil, i would wear this during late spring and early summer, before the real heat would come and make this feel too sticky for the temperatures. a good "daytime" scent.

Envelop yourself in the soft, sensual embrace of gentle sandalwood warmed by cocoa vanilla and a veil of deep myrrh. in the imp:the pure milk chocolate of Bliss. wet on skin: same. dry down: ah! THERE'S the sandalwood! wow. this is the warm, sweet sandalwood of Tombstone with a background chocolate note from Bliss. awesome! in all: another oil that manages to incorporate food notes without being foodie, Velvet is sweet and sexy without being too heavy. perfect for a friday night snuggle date!

in the imp: oh, holy CRAP that smells good- like chocolate covered fruit cordials without the yucky syrup that ruins the real ones. wet on skin: more of the same. the wine comes through a bit more now, so it's like eating thivk dark chocolate and drinking rich blood-red wine. dry down: a beautiful spicy blend of wine, dark chocolate and spice: totally. gorgeous. in all: a fabulous, rich blend that manages to combine food elements without being foodie- a cross-over hit for sure, perfect for long winter nights in front of a crackling fire or out on the town. total love. :D

in the imp: like being in an autumnal woods- all cedar and dark galangal. wet on skin: same, with a hint of High John peeping through. dry down: miraculously, the High John is preventing the cedar from turning into hamster cage on me. a nice wood has emerged as a result. in all: although not the church incense i was anticipating this is a fine wood-heavy oil that is masculine enough for those that are male identified but neutral enough to be a good day-time grounding oil for anyone.

in the imp: christmas pine! wet on skin: same- that sweet fir that only can be gotten from fresh xmas trees in the house. dry down: same. in all: a perfect holiday time oil, i would put this in an oil burner during yule or christmas eve in a heart beat. as perfume to wear however, i think i'll pass.

in the imp: orange with a little spicy undercurrent of patchouli. wet on skin: same. dry down: this has dried down into a lovely blend. i could see this being very nice as a room scent in an oil burner. in all: because of it's sweetness, it reminds me of springtime. i would want to smell this on the first warm day when we're able to throw open the windows and let all the stale air out and the fresh air in to circulate. the patchouli adds a little bit of sexy, and i can imagine this being a nice layering note or worn out to dinner.

in the imp: lots of apple blossom, lots of white tea. it reminds me of scented "natural" products you get in the drug store. wet on skin: same. like shampoo. dry down: still shampoo-y. it reminds me slightly of the Body Shop's Dewberry scent. :shrug: in all: this reminds me also very much of my experience with Hanami. that turned to a nice shampoo scent on me, too. maybe it's the blossom and the ginger. however, if you love Hanami, check this out.

in the imp: yep, that's violet and rose, alright! the violet is a bit heavier than the rose at this point, though. wet on skin: the violet is becoming very strong now- i can barely detect the rose. dry down: the balance has come back some, and it's a lovely mix of to classically used scented flowers. in all: violet and rose are the only two florals i can more than stand- i love them both. if you adore the CD combination of Faith and Hope, especially together, then this blend might be a very good GC alternate for you. i think i will see how the imp ages and if it continues to blend as i think it will, a 5mL bottle may very well be in order.

in the imp: YUM- rich, resin-y and warm! wet on skin: same, with a hint of black cherry bark, but just a hint. dry down: i'm getting a hint of almond, cardamom, vanilla and a touch of incense. it's LOVELY. in all:if you liked Kajaraho from Lupercalia 2007, give this a try as a GC alternative. i find it has the same "feel" but perhaps a bit more daytime friendly. really nice!