Hanami
Category: Limited Edition (Spring 2009)
Quantity: 5ml bottle
Description:
HANAMI
Hanami is the Japanese tradition of viewing the flowering trees. When the Sakura (cherry) and Ume (plum) Trees blossom, spectators arrive in throngs to view the ephemeral and beautiful flowers and picnic on foods and sake. The Hanami tradition is as anticipated and celebrated as Leaf Season in America.
Sakura blossom, ume blossom, sake
Review:
In the bottle: This smells like spring to me, and walking through the apple and cherry trees in bloom. Although, in this case, it’s cherry and plum…
Wet: The flowers are exploding under my nose. The plum came first, and then the cherry.
Dry: I’m still getting a lot of the flowers, but with a little bit of sake as well. It’s strange, but it smells a bit like spray net…
Verdict: Hanami has a serious, mature feeling. I don’t doubt this could be an elegant Japanese woman’s favourite perfume.
Faustus
Category: Sin & Salvation
Quantity: sample
Description:
FAUSTUS
An infusion of incalculable power and irresistible temptation. Truly an exercise in megalomania and self-gratification: frankincense and cinnamon, darkened by violet.
Review:
In the bottle: What I smell is mostly frankincense, with a little bit of violet, and a drop of cinnamon.
Wet: My skin has just been attacked by frankincense in big quantities… And some dark violets are pushing from underneath.
Dry: It settled down to a mix of cinnamon and violet. It’s spicy, and a little bittersweet.
Verdict: I have to admit spicy cinnamon is very sensual and playful; but man, do I dislike frankincense on me… Also, it’s quite different from my usual feminine perfume oils, but it certainly is empowering and self-gratifying! It’s somewhat masculine, but I think it would fit better on a young man, filled with sexual energy; or as a neutral scent for a woman with an aura of power. When my mother smelled this on me, last December, she asked me where she could buy “a gallon of that stuff”, so I know to whom I can give my sample.
More reviews: Sin & Salvation: Faustus
Sleepy Hollow: Katrina Van Tassel
Category: Limited Edition
Quantity: 5ml bottle
Description:
KATRINA VAN TASSEL
… and though he had seen many spectres in his time, and been more than once beset by Satan in divers shapes, in his lonely perambulations, yet daylight put an end to all these evils; and he would have passed a pleasant life of it, in despite of the devil and all his works, if his path had not been crossed by a being that causes more perplexity to mortal man than ghosts, goblins, and the whole race of witches put together, and that was-a woman.
Among the musical disciples who assembled, one evening in each week, to receive his instructions in psalmody, was Katrina Van Tassel, the daughter and only child of a substantial Dutch farmer. She was a blooming lass of fresh eighteen; plump as a partridge; ripe and melting and rosy cheeked as one of her father's peaches, and universally famed, not merely for her beauty, but her vast expectations. She was withal a little of a coquette, as might be perceived even in her dress, which was a mixture of ancient and modern fashions, as most suited to set off her charms. She wore the ornaments of pure yellow gold, which her great-great-grandmother had brought over from Saardam, the tempting stomacher of the olden time; and withal a provokingly short petticoat, to display the prettiest foot and ankle in the country round.
White rose and honeyed cream.
Review:
In the bottle: It’s sweet, like Dana O’Shee, only with roses instead of sweet grains.
Wet: Mostly roses. Somehow, it reminds me of my grand-mother’s perfume; I want to snuggle up in my grandma’s blanket and sing lullabies.
Dry: It’s still rosy, but creamier. It’s very feminine and, without a doubt, a good girl’s perfume. The sweet cream scent lasts much longer than the rose scent though.
Verdict: I like it, but it’s missing a little something to be more than “my grand-mother’s perfume”. I’m happy with the bottle I have, but I wouldn’t buy another one.
More reviews: LE: Katrina Van Tassel
Bread Pudding
Category: Mary Jo's Bakery
Quantity: sample
Description:
BREAD PUDDING
Warm bread soaked in milk and eggs and spices. Baked golden bubbly and served drenched in an ooey-gooey vanilla rum sauce. Delightfully rich and satisfying!
Review:
In the bottle: I smell a mix of bread, eggs, spices (especially cinnamon, yum!), vanilla, and a bit of rum.
Wet: This really smells like french toast (or “pain doré/pain perdu”; as usual, please forgive my french) with spices, and some sort of a rich vanilla sauce, with a strong sugar undernote.
Dry: Yeah, old bread or old cake soaked in a preparation of milk and eggs to remove dryness. It took some time, but I finally got some of the rum back. And as usual, the perfume turned sugary-sweet on me.
Verdict: Not bad; but maybe a little bit too “french toast”, the ressemblance is just too obvious for me. Other than that, it’s lovely, and so yummy that it makes me want to bake.
Atomic Cheesecake
Category: Starlite Oasis
Quantity: sample
Description:
ATOMIC CHEESECAKE
It’s all about the pinup. With their peek-a-boo poses and pouty lips, these blonde bombshells, buxom brunettes, and randy redheads are the ultimate art of seduction.
Pure, unadulterated cheesecake, vanilla bean, vanilla musk
Review:
In the bottle: It does smell like cheesecake! I smell cream cheese and vanilla.
Wet: It’s pretty much the same as in the bottle. It’s very creamy, rich, warm, and decadent. If it’s based on a real cheesecake, I want the recipe.
Dry: I smell the vanilla musk a little better, but it’s still a lot of cream cheese. Overall, it stays true from beginning to end.
Verdict: It smells delicious! It’s like a real cheesecake, served fresh and tender; it’s only missing the berry sauce.
Maiden
Category: Ars Amatoria
Quantity: sample
Description:
MAIDEN
A gentle vision of purity, goodness and virtue: white tea, carnation and Damask Rose.
Review:
In the bottle: This certainly smells soft and feminine! So far, it’s mostly a blend of flowers, but the white tea is a sweet touch.
Wet: Carnation, carnation, and more carnation, with a little bit of rose, and a tiny little bit of white tea.
Dry: It does stabilize during dry down, but it’s still a lot of carnation! There’s still a little bit of rose, and what I believe is a trace of white tea, but it’s very subtle.
Verdict: Overall, Maiden is a nice spring/summer scent, but you really have to love carnation to fully appreciate this one; therefore, it’s just not for me. I know white tea tends to be tasteless, but I expected more of it. But still, it’s a nice floral scent.
More reviews: Ars Amatoria: Maiden
London
Category: Wanderlust
Quantity: sample
Description:
LONDON
Venerable Victorian Tea Rose… twisted, blackened and emboldened with wickedness.
Review:
In the bottle: Roses, yet dried, sour, bitter and intoxicated.
Wet: A sweet and elegant rose, but still dark and bitter.
Dry: Same, with subtlety. It blends well with my skin and becomes quite sweet. However, it doesn’t last very long (at least on me).
Verdict: It’s very elegant and womanly, with an interesting wicked twist. Unfortunately, this perfume smells older than I am. It’s something I’ll want to try again in a few years.
More reviews: Wanderlust: London
Eat Me
Category: Mad Tea Party
Quantity: sample
Description:
EAT ME
Soon her eye fell on a little glass box that was lying under the table: she opened it, and found in it a very small cake, on which the words 'EAT ME' were beautifully marked in currants.
'Well, I'll eat it,' said Alice, 'and if it makes me grow larger, I can reach the key; and if it makes me grow smaller, I can creep under the door; so either way I'll get into the garden, and I don't care which happens!'
She ate a little bit, and said anxiously to herself, 'Which way? Which way?', holding her hand on the top of her head to feel which way it was growing, and she was quite surprised to find that she remained the same size: to be sure, this generally happens when one eats cake, but Alice had got so much into the way of expecting nothing but out-of-the-way things to happen, that it seemed quite dull and stupid for life to go on in the common way.
Three white cakes, vanilla, and red and black currants.
BPAL’s Eat Me is not for eating. Please use common sense, and remember: perfume oils are for external use only.
Review:
In the bottle: Oh my! What a sugary, creamy, decadent cake!
Wet: A soft, moist vanilla cake. I still hesitate between comparing it to a white wedding cake or a pound cake; but either way, it smells yummy.
Dry: Now I get a little bit of currant to balance the rich sweetness of the cake. However, it still smells like something I would eat...
Verdict: Ok, I admit it, I have a weakness for foody scents... I might be biased, but I think this perfume is adorable. In fact, it makes me want to bake a batch of cupcakes.
More reviews: Mad Tea Party: Eat Me
Shoujo
Category: Anime & Manga
Quantity: sample
Description:
SHOUJO
Shoujo is all things girly! Images of fairy tales, summer romances, slumber parties, whispered secrets, giggles, best friends, boys, flowers, and those sugary sweet and innocent teenage years. Fushigi Yugi, Ayashi no Ceres, and anything from CLAMP offer Shoujo at its finest! Apricot, sugar cane, candy hearts, white florals.
Review:
In the bottle: It smells like apricot-flavoured candy, mixed with something floral, or a very sweet and fruity herbal tea.
Wet: Hmm, it’s juicy like a fresh fruit, as if you were biting into a delicious apricot. It’s still very surgary sweet, but the flowers balance the candy a little bit.
Dry: It’s so soft and lovely! I can still identify the powdery candy hearts; but overall, it’s a very peaceful blend.
Verdict: It’s soft, delicate, feminine, refreshing, and absolutely perfect for summer. I like it, although I’m afraid that it might be a little bit too young for me… but I do love it, so it’s on my “maybe” list.
Kabuki
Category: Ars Amatoria
Quantity: sample
Description:
KABUKI
Compelling, complex, and utterly enigmatic: a luxuriant, exotic blend of cherry, red musk, and star anise.
Review:
In the bottle: Eww, it smells like cherry-scented play-dough... However, if I pay attention, I can also smell anise and some musk.
Wet: At first, I get a lot of anise, but I also smell something sweet, like candy, and cherry.
Dry: Cherry and anise candy, literally. I also get a very faint note of musk. It gets better and better as hours go by.
Verdict: At first, I tought it smelled too much like licorice; but now, I really like it. It turned into something feminine and sensual.
More reviews: Ars Amatoria: Kabuki
Forbidden Desire
Category: American Gothic
Quantity: sample
Description:
FORBIDDEN DESIRE
Desire is a powerful creature, shape-shifting yet solid as the imp who visits you during the night. The urge grabs a hold of you. Your every impulse demands action. Consequences be damned, as damned as the doer of the deed. Lust takes control. Your thirst must be quenched. How sweet the taste of forbidden desire on your lips. Right or wrong, desire has won. White chocolate, vanilla bean, sugared musk
Review:
In the bottle: Chocolate, and maybe a little bit of spiced vanilla.
Wet: It’s a lot of chocolate… It smells like cake, probably because of the little note of vanilla.
Dry: Chocolate and sugar overload!
Verdict: I’ve tried to wear this one a few times, and every time I did, I found myself with an uncontrollable need to eat a chocolate bar, or a piece of chocolate cake. This can’t be good for my health! I understand why it’s called “forbidden desire”… This foody scent is just too foody for me, but I can imagine very easily why someone else would love it.
Pop
Category: Punk
Quantity: sample
Description:
POP
Break out the Dickies and the studded belts! Faux-hawks. Thin ties. Skinny jeans. Chuck Taylors. Eyeliner. Cotton candy flavored cherry-red lipstick. Pink and black. Trucker hats and skull jewelry.
Review:
In the bottle: I smell cherry, something sweet (like sugar maybe?), and a bitter under-note.
Wet: It has turned darker, with a spicy bitterness like clove or pepper. The cherry is almost absent.
Dry: The cherry came back, and I still smell clove… Why am I thinking “cherry cola”?
Verdict: Frankly, this isn’t my thing. I love cherry, and I love spicy scents; but I’m not sure I like the two together. This one just doesn’t work for me.
Rosalind
Category: Illyria
Quantity: sample
Description:
ROSALIND
Dew-covered berries and fresh green grasses with a faint breath of spring flowers.
Review:
In the bottle: It smells fresh, indeed! Sweet floral scents mixed with very faint berries.
Wet: Green grass, green grass, and more green grass. As for the flowers, could it be peony? Or something like it? It reminds me of Maiden, but rolling into grass.
Dry: Cut the lawn, roll onto it, that’s what it smells like... Fortunately, it fades away quickly.
Verdict: It’s not so great. I’m almost glad it’s discontinued.
More reviews: Illyria: Rosalind
Lava Rocket
Category: Starlite Oasis
Quantity: sample
Description:
LAVA ROCKET
Turn it on. Warm it up. Watch it erupt. Get ready for blast off baby! Cassia, clove, black pepper, molten musk, orange lava
Review:
In the bottle: I smell cassia, pepper, clove, and a little bit of musk. So far, it’s alright.
Wet: Hmm, spicy! I get clove and pepper first, then musk.
Dry: Now it’s just old musk...
Verdict: No, not my thing, it’s just too oldish, and maybe a little bit too masculine for me.
Alice
Category: Mad Tea Party
Quantity: sample
Description:
ALICE
Curiouser and curiouser. Milk and honey with rose, carnation and bergamot.
Review:
In the bottle: It’s sweet and flowery. What I smell the most is a mix of milk and honey.
Wet: Initially, Alice is sweetened milk and flowers. I do smell a bit of carnation and bergamot, but not so much rose.
Dry: It’s still sweet and creamy flowers, but a tiny bit spicy (now that’s curious!). There is a little bit of rose hidden underneath the carnation, but it’s really not as strong as I thought it would be from the description.
Verdict: Alice is young and fresh, with a nice feminine touch. Because it reminds me of something edible (tea and cakes, how appropriate…), it’s tempting to describe it as the cousin of Dana O’Shee; or Katrina Van Tassel made better, thanks to carnation and bergamot. Either way, I like it, it will be perfect for spring.
More reviews: Mad Tea Party: Alice
Shameful Secret
Category: American Gothic
Quantity: sample
Description:
SHAMEFUL SECRET
We all come with a past. Certainly, some have more to hide than others. What we do with our lives is of no concern to them. Nobody need know your secret. Hide your shame. Stand tall and proud as it turns your stomach sour. Sweet milk, raspberry cream, absinthe, cassia
Review:
In the bottle: I smell cream, cassia, raspberry, and absinthe, in that order. It’s an interesting mix.
Wet: It’s a little bit bitter, but very herbal, from the absinthe; yet very sweet from the milk and cassia. So far, the raspberry is still very far in the background.
Dry: It turned sweeter, more fruity and juicy, but still with a tiny bit of bitterness/sourness underneath, but it’s really whispered like a secret.
Verdict: Oh, I love this one! It fits me so perfectly, how could I give it a bad review?
Pickled Punk
Category: Curio Shop
Quantity: sample
Description:
PICKLED PUNK
When two become one, what once was is now forever...only never to be. Ghastly to some. Fascinating to others. A medical marvel to all. This bicephalic form floats, peaceful, in a man-made womb with a view…perfectly preserved for your curiosity and pleasure. Tangerine, pink pepper, talc
Review:
In the bottle: A lovely, spicy tangerine. I doesn’t smell too fruity or too sweet, but not too spicy either; it’s well balanced.
Wet: It’s orange on my skin! I should have thought about it, it was orange in the bottle. The tangerine is juicy and fruity, but it’s mixed with a spice, and I’m not even sure it’s pepper. In fact, it smells like clove on me. It reminds me of those Christmas ornaments made of whole oranges picked with clove.
Dry: I finally get some of the talc, which separates the ingredients a little bit. Therefore, I can smell the pink pepper better, or at least for what it really is. However, there’s not enough tangerine left (at least in my opinion, and I love tangerine).
Verdict: I can see there’s an interesting concept behind this one, and the smell of it is also very interesting; but unfortunately, it’s not enough to convince me. It works fine as a gender-neutral blend, but it doesn’t suit my skin type very well, and it doesn’t last very long. Too bad.
Love Me
Category: Bewitching Brews
Quantity: sample
Description:
LOVE ME
A commanding, dominant oil that increases sexual magnetism, creates an intense and irresistible air of attraction, and amplifies potency.
Review:
In the bottle: I smell patchouli, citrus, something floral (maybe jasmine); overall, it reminds me of Faustus.
Wet: Spicy cinnamon and bright orange. It’s fragrant and warm.
Dry: Now, it’s just patchouli, sweetened by oranges...
Verdict: It’s not bad, but it didn’t work for me. I should try it again someday over another soap, it might change my perception of it.
More reviews: Bewitching Brews: Love Me
Marie
Category: Diabolus
Quantity: sample
Description:
MARIE
A blend of sinuous violet and elegant tea rose: the chosen scent of France's Demigoddess of Debauch: Marie Antoinette.
Review:
In the bottle: Mostly violet, and rose.
Wet: Apparently, my nose identifies the smell of violet very easily, and finds the rose a few minutes later. So far, it’s fresh and elegant, but a little bit soapy.
Dry: The first time I tried this one, in December, I thought it smelled like an old violet and rose potpourri (note: I had a cold and everything smelled the same). However, I can fully appreciate it today, and I have to admit Marie makes a nice transition from a sweet and fresh floral scent to a wicked violet.
Verdict: I’m growing fond of Marie, I might add it to my “maybe” list. It’s sensual, in a naughty way. On the other hand, if you don’t like violet, stay away from this one.
More reviews: Diabolus: Marie
Gosurori
Category: Anime & Manga
Quantity: sample
Description:
GOSURORI
GothLoli’s depict a demure, well-bred yet stylized blend of dark, brooding Gothic and cute, childlike Lolita…a throw-back to the genteel, prim and proper eras. Whether wearing Victorian, Rococo, or Edwardian, knee-length dresses, petticoats and crinolines, ribbons and lace, over-knee stockings, boots or Mary Janes, top hats and parasols, Gothic Lolita’s are in perfect style! Anime/Manga include Bizenghast , Rozen Maiden , and DOLL . Earl Grey, sugared rose petals, vanilla cream
Review:
In the bottle: Sweetened Earl Grey tea and rose. Or what you would get if you dropped a rose in your grand-father’s favourite tea… It smells good, actually.
Wet: It smells a bit more like rose once on skin, with a sweet creamy note (vanilla?).
Dry: Tea, rose, sugar, cream, and vanilla cupcakes… I think it’s got all the ingredients for a successful loli tea party!
Verdict: I had mixed feelings toward this one at first, because I’m not a fan of anime or manga, and yet I was curious enough to try it. It’s like an old woman’s perfume with added sugar, and it’s very elegant. I will certainly try some more from the Anime & Manga collection.
L'École Des Filles
Category: Ars Amatoria
Quantity: sample
Description:
L’ÉCOLE DES FILLES
We sang till almost night, and drank my good store of wine; and then they parted and I to my chamber, where I did read through L'Ecole des Filles; a lewd book, but what doth me no wrong to read for imagination's sake… and after I had done it, I burned it, that it might not be among my books to my shame.
Published around 1655, this is considered to be the origin of modern pornography in France. It is a discourse between two young ladies, the elder instructing the younger in the ways of passion.
This is a libertine's celebration of decadence, debauchery, and sexual freedom: orange blossom, ambergris, orris root, white rose, lemon balm, jonquil, carrot seed, and benzoin.
Review:
In the bottle: It’s hard to identify exactly what it is... It’s lemony and floral, bitter and sweet.
Wet: I smell orange blossom, lemon, benzoin, and florals (jonquil?). It’s relatively strong and masculine-neutral.
Dry: It gets softer after a while. It becomes floral, sweet and feminine.
Verdict: Honnestly, I wasn’t sure I would like this one at first, but I do! It turns into something so soft and delicate. I still hesitate to buy a bottle, I think it might make an ideal scent for my soap making hobby.
More reviews: Ars Amatoria: L'École Des Filles
Lullaby
Category: In The Mood
Quantity: sample
Description:
LULLABY
Sleep judy. A quiet and relaxing blend to ease your tension and calm your thoughts. Peaceful sleep nourishes the spirit and soothes the soul. Lullaby does just that, without having to sing a single note. Lavender, chamomile, mandarin, jasmine, ylang ylang, rose.
Review:
In the bottle: Hmm… Chamomile, mandarin, lavender, and some other flowers float toward my nose. There’s something comforting and soothing about it right away, that I can not explain to myself, but it seems to work.
Wet: As soon as I put it on, a bitter smell came out of it, so I was quite worried; but, fortunately, it didn’t last long. It then turned into a soothing blend of flowers. The lavender is soft, which is a good thing because I usually don’t like it much, and the mandarin adds a warm touch to it.
Dry: After drydown, I smell the rose and the jasmine a little bit better. The floral scent is stronger, but the drop of mandarine is still there to complement it.
Verdict: At least this one keeps its promises, it’s very calm and peaceful. It could work, to a certain extent, as a neutral blend, even though the flowers make it a bit feminine. On a personal note, the first time I tried it, I was tired and overloaded with work, so it wasn’t a very good time to try it on, I didn’t work much that day (I guess I could have used a little bit of Jolt). But right now, I’m on vacation, and fully able to appreciate it. Would I wear that often? Probably not, but it was fun to try it and see what it does.
Chocolate Chai Muffin
Category: Mary Jo's Bakery
Quantity: sample
Description:
CHOCOLATE CHAI MUFFIN
A cakey, not-too-sweet, muffin flavored with chocolate powder and chai spices. This muffin is scrumptious!
Review:
In the bottle: Oh my! Spicy chocolate! Those warm, exotic spices seem delightful when mixed with the cocoa.
Wet: As soon as it touched my skin, it turned into bitter spices, with an subtle note of musk. There’s a little bit of chocolate behind, but it’s not as strong as in the bottle.
Dry: After a few minutes, it turned herbal; that’s weird. If you are familiar with the (fake) chocolate essence sold for soap-making, mix it with spicy herbs, and that’s what you get.
Verdict: Honestly, I feared that it would be the cousin of Forbidden Desire; but fortunately, it’s not as sweet, and its spiciness gives it a very sexy aspect.
Follow Me Boy
Category: Bewitching Brews
Quantity: sample
Description:
FOLLOW ME BOY
A houdoun recipe dating back almost 150 years. This blend is favored by prostitutes, exotic dancers and others in the sex industry for its power to attract, seduce, and enthrall. Ensures financial gain and increased profits.
Review:
In the bottle: Contrarily to my fellow reviewers, I don’t get any jasmine (in my memories, jasmine smells better than that), but something bitter, maybe lemon, and a strong floral smell, either rose or patchouli.
Wet: I still smell citrus, but sweeter, such as orange, mixed with honey, rose, and baby powder.
Dry: It gets better after a while. I now smell honeysuckle, vanilla, powder, and something spicy. It’s still very floral, but it goes through a nice evolution.
Verdict: It’s ok, but honestly, it’s not something I will keep.
More reviews: Bewitching Brews: Follow Me Boy
Splintered Love
Category: American Gothic
Quantity: sample
Description:
SPLINTERED LOVE
Secrets grow like thorns around the hearts of lovers. Desperate to hide the truth, the spiny garden grows larger, depleting love. Love fails to germinate, to grow. The sewn fruits are bitter. The heart fractures. The splinters cut deep. Rose, pink pepper, spikenard, pomegranate
Review:
In the bottle: At first sniff, I smell rose, with pepper, and a little pomegranate. I don’t know what spikenard is (I’ve heard of its historical uses, but I’ve never smelled it), so I guess it’s the fourth ingredient I can’t quite replace.
Wet: At first, Splintered Love is all sweet. It’s a nice blend of rose and fruity, juicy pomegranate.
Dry: After a while, it turns bittersweet and spicy; I suspect pepper to have something to do with this metamorphosis. Hours later, all that remains is bitter pomegranate leftovers.
Verdict: Oh, I love it! The concept behind it is interesting, and it smells awesome, could I ask for more? Splintered Love goes in my “to buy” list.
